Excavator Repair. Let’s Fix This Sloppy Hoe! Yanmar Vio-50. 

Did you notice that spry of hydraulic fluid at the beginning?

We had a similar rock that kept destroying lawn mower blades in our side yard back in the 70s. Father decided one weekend to get rid of it. Turned out it was 5 ft in diameter. We reduced that sucker to rubble with a manual star drill and a sledge hammer (free kid labor). As soon as you pointed to the top of that one I knew the story.

Could you include a link to the tick socks video for us phone viewers?

@@zowiefenderblast4602 I will put it in the description too. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WDnPUDRQGm4.html

Thank you from a ticky midwest place

hey carl 😂

@@polishingturds 😆

I came to the comments to recommend the CEE channel. (*edit- Wasn't patient enough to see that it was in the video 🤦‍♂️) Give Homie some scritches for me!

👋 good

Just a thought, could you have used taper wedges to split the top of the rock? Liked the video,keep them coming.

Was just thinking about how this is a job for CEE …if they weren’t on different continents haha

@@buildingsalvage Continents, and price range. I love CEE (and Homie), as do we all, as we rightly should. But to CEE, RU-vid is secondary, they're a business, remember the workshop he has that we wish FarmCraft had? CEE caters to a very very boutique and heavily government subsidized market + there's a material shortage (so costs even more). The time CEE would have spent lineboring, welding, lineboring, freeze-fit, on the pin ears for this Yanmar Stick, for the money it is that you THINK they should be doing it for, he could have spent the same time and effort doing the same exact thing for 5-10 times more because that's how much their customers are willing to pay. CEE and FarmCraft could have practically been neighbors and it wouldn't have made any difference unless they were friends doing favors to one another. Not to put CEE or FarmCraft (who did an excellent repair btw) in negative light or anything of course, and if CEE wants to correct me on anything that I've said, they're free to do just that.

They have a cement mortar that does that. It expands when it cures, sold for rock breaking.

@@12345NoNamesLeft Its called Expando, or that is one brand anyhow.

Go Egyptian style, hammer in a wood wedge then get it wet, it will break the rock when it expands. Or use the fancy expando stuff or whatever those guys are talking about.

The rock will gradually work its way up so generations of people will have to deal with it a few inches at a time. Or someone can deal with it all at once.

Explosives? No one needs to know you used them, unless you put on RU-vid, then you get into trouble. But you just show rock, then no rock anymore!

The first side he bored on the mill had a hole which should have had a pin though it and a matching hole (missing?) in the main pin to stop it rotating. The rear pin had an "ear" and a bolt holding the pin in and stopping it turning which will be why it wasn't as worn.

Most excavator have a pad that is big enough to fit your heal on as well as your toe. Fun watch

At 8:25 it looks like you can see the hole in the pin. Not sure how the hole in the casting and matching hole in the pin didn't set off a light bulb. But I've missed obvious stuff too.

does not matter if your country sink then grease fitting you looking at build up with dirt in the holes they are not a right or wrong way to do it how any time i had to change out the grease fitting when the damaged by Debra too

I have welded a large nut over a exposed grease fitting. It does fill up with dirt/wood but it's never broken.

use a nut

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yevYx49I47M.html&ab_channel=DanHurd

This "feathering" process is thousands of years old and is astonishingly effective on rocks and even concrete without steel reinforcement. I had to do this once where the extra concrete not used in my house foundation was dumped by the contractor. A foot thick and 3 feet long chunk in a very unfortunate location that just had to go.

Keith Fenner has a few videos on this

Line boring in a centre lathe farmyard style: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vXs-_oqdWWI.html

Thanks man, I just might use that tip.

another option for the milling solution... bore & bush one side complete then attach that side to the mil table. Insert a straight, close-fit rod in that completed bushing that extends up through the now upper socket and indicate the rod to locate its bore center.

@@marvkaye I had a similar thought, though your idea is probably a bit easier.

Yep....I use to think I was a great DIY guy until you see stuff like this.

Funny you say that. I've tried blowing up rocks with black powder before without success. I can't get hold of anything better. Wish I had a friend who was a demolition expert!

@@FarmCraft101 Have you tried using demolition grout?

@@FarmCraft101 anfo is easy to make but to set it off is the harder part.

@@FarmCraft101 have you tried tannerite?

Don't they sell half and quarter sticks of dynamite or it's equivalent to you farmers still or is that not a thing anymore?

here in argentina it is 2$ per dynamite stick. 😆

A quarter of a century ago I would blast rocks like that as a hobby. Sadly, things have changed.

You're absolutely right. Not only in Japan but also in Europe, in countries that never converted from imperial for the simple reason that they have always been metric, tapered thread pipe is all imperial.

Well, one track still needs repair so he still has traction issues.

A couple of shotgun shells as TNT would do the trick also.

a few wedges in each of the holes struck in a line would split the beast with out much effort. Its the way old quarry men used to hue rock

Look up feather and wedge. That and your hammer drill makes easy work of breaking rock. Dan Hurd on RU-vid has some videos on their use

@@footplate0 right feather and wedges.

Look into Dexpan, available from Walmart, Grainger, others.

he should also avoid moving things sideways with a high load aswell, the stick and bom bushings does not like that and probably is what most of the other wobble is coming from.

@@John-yo7kh nah using the machine for that is fine. Holding the bucket flat and swinging from left to right to grade is way worse, as well as slamming or pressing the side of the bucket into something

@@timvolkmer1121 ain't that included in what i just wrote, moving things sideways with a high load... grading or moving stuff sideways with a low load is usually fine but should be avoided because they are not built for it.. Greetings from a swedish ew180c operator with a rototilt.

Same boat as JB just not a retired millwright. But still employed Millwright

I was thinking something similar. Does something fit over those foot petals that allows you to place your entire foot down and tilt forward and back.

I also have a Yanmar, albeit smaller, a Vio17, and it is the same thing. The pedals are absolutely garbage and the angles are not ergonomic at all. I even had to cut and modify the armrests because they were the same way. I've seen a bunch of them and they're all the same. Don't think anything is missing here.

@@Sugarkryptonite Crazy. I always hear about how good Yanmars are but I guess it's mostly the newer ones. Maybe he can make a good video about jerry rigging some pedals onto it lol

@@nathancook5354 No, they are good machines, even back to the older ones like Andrew Camarata has which is quite a bit older than this one. Ergonomics were their weak point.

just what I was going to add

I thought about an eccentric bushing for one side, that he could have bored on the mill with the needed offset.

Agggghhhh just track one way.😁

That was exactly what I was thinking, the rear pin of the coupler as a locking bolt that keeps the pin from rotating in the coupler, so all the rotation is between the pin and rear linkage. The original pin for that coupler was likely similar so no rotation happened between the coupler and pin (no need for grease or zerks then), just the end of the stick and pin. The longer pin for the thumb changed that and the coupler was not designed with replaceable bushings like in the end of the stick, so the cast coupler wore easily against the hardened pin. Hopefully the "new" bushings in the coupler will "wear" better with the grease zerks added. Probably would have been a good idea to machine a shallow grove inside those "bushings" in the coupler that aligned with the new grease zerks to make sure grease gets ALL the way around the pin (not just mostly on one side....) That is the most wearing joint on the whole machine.... Just keep that pin REALLY well greased!! All that said, great job on the repair!! On the foot pedals, just weld some extensions on the rear portion of those pedals that are horizontal (parallel to the floor), so that the heel of your foot can rest on them and push down for reverse. On many machines they are hinged so you can flip them up to lay on the portion of the pedal you already have, so they don't take up extra floor space. But if you are going to use them, they do really need to be flipped up "out-of-the-way"....

That's exactly what i was thinking about in me head! RU-vid is so great to see other machinists work and then to see comments from machinists about said work. Much can be learned :)

I was thinking the same thing as I watched this. Not sure if he has a DRO on his mill, which may have helped him get close enough to use the DTI to zero in on the bottom hole, assuring alignment of the yet to be bored upper one.

Good thinking! 👍

After loosening the set screws that he found.

Pretty sure that's why they're NPT thread - to thread in grease nipples. Pump grease in, grease pushes the pins out from the back.

Peanut butter or coconut oil, which is solid when cool, both make less messy and less expensive substitutes for grease to do the pushing. I even used bread, made into a mush, for smaller jobs.

@@jjock3239 Do you fill a grease gun with peanut butter or coconut oil? It takes quite a bit of pressure to get those pins out (though maybe less if you remove the set screws!) - I don't see how else you'd get enough pressure on it to actually make it work? I've seen the bread trick before - you need to use some kind of a punch to force the bread in, and I'd think you'd damage the threads on the pins doing it that way in this case.

The Vio 35, a little smaller than this machine, also has plates that extend backward and up a bit so you can move the tracks backward. On all the machines, up to the 349 cat, my brother and I walk them backwards if we have any distance to go. It is more comfortable to pull the handles or push my feet straight down instead of away from me.

@@CGT80 well every excavator operator should know your undercarriage is wearing 3x more when travelling backwards. That is because of the top side of the tracks are being put to tention and bushes are turning under tention inside of the sprocket tooth. That is not happening when travelling forward. I think with a rubber track machine it does not make a difference, but with steels it sure does.

@@megape95 I will have to ask my brother if he has heard of that, since he is the well seasoned operator. Our company owns the mini ex but sold off their 320 and we rent the others as needed. The mini is what really gets walked a lot while the others don't usually have to go more than a few minutes across a work area. Thanks for the tip!

If only I had a jack hammer!

Yes it is British standard pipe thread