Just did this job with z1 headers that I heat wrapped. Made the job ten times harder as you can only use the open end wrench with 1/4 turn at time. He said it best, take your time
This is an awesome tutorial. I was going to make one, and this is exactly what I would recommend. The only thing that would save you time is using a swivel 14mm with a long reach Electric ratchet to drive the nuts off and drive them on otherwise perfect video. You don't need to remove the coolant pipes like how you said. To install the middle bottom one of the passenger side I used a 14 deep socket with a universal unit and a extension and I was able to install the nut back on and go back with a stubby 14mm wrench to get it as tight as I could. But I know that not all test pipes are made equal, so I could see where you might of struggled with that design
I love watching people do it with engine on.. I learned for me it was easier to drop the engine subframe and Tranny because my forearms are huge and I was just used to it from doing engines on z’s all the time it would take me 4 to 6 hours for an entire swap
welcome to the Tomei header club, sounds nice, are you happy with the outcome? I did everything from up top and did torque everything except one nut. I did however take the hard lines out cause I replaced them with new shiny ones 😁 but like I said the torque adapter was a must and I also used all 1/4" drive stuff to allow for more room. Not a job for the faint of heart for sure. Any plans on doing a driving video/review with the finished product?
Haha, thank you! I definitely plan to do a driving review to give my impressions. I need to put some work into the daily first (brakes, battery, heater core and starter motor). But I'll still put some 350Z content out for you guys.
@@AnthonyJ350 I had to lower the frame that the steering rack bolts to and remove front cross member to have a ton of room to work with, since I also upgraded my engine mounts while I was at it. But ya, the coolant lines would have to be removed if you don’t plan to remove the parts i mentioned
@@benny6712 In the video showing tomorrow, we didn't remove the hardliners (just the upper rad hose) and didn't lower the cross member either. Check it out when the video drops.
I’m having trouble with the steering rack underneath. I got it back on but the holes don’t line up so I can’t put the bottom 12mm bolt back in. What do you recommend?
I've had them on my truck for about 8 years. I think they pretty good, I would have them coated by a shop you trust, the coating on mine didn't last that long.
They're insulated clamps you can get at the parts store or on Amazon www.amazon.ca/LOKMAN-Stainless-Cushioned-Insulated-Installation/dp/B01HPE185Y/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1E0IKHO1FZE4J&keywords=insulated%2Bclamps&qid=1656901814&sprefix=insulated%2Bclamp%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzVk1PWU42SzlJM1o2JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzQ1NTIyM0FQOUg0S01ZOVVIViZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUExMDAwMjc5SExKRjk2SFIxU01VJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1
So I have a question if the gasket is placed differently than you showed, will it cause a leak? I just did and install and I believe I misplaced them. EDIT: It bolted up perfectly fine just that I placed both of them the same direction.
It will probably still work. I just put it in how Nissan recommends. I recommend just check for leaks regularly and see if there's any black marks on the cylinder head over time.
@@AnthonyJ350alright I appreciate it! I didn't want to take it out again as it was a big hassle to remove them and install I got the VHR headers on with ceramic coating and heat wrap and Silicone coating to prevent the wrap from getting grime I hope they provide a better improvement from before.
@@AnthonyJ350ok so the exhaust it's going great no leaks on the headers but the header to test pipe gasket was on but one bolt got loose and cause a major leak
Hey man I got another question. When I get my 350z tuned do I need to buy the license or just pay for the tune being that I am not the one doing the actual tuning myself and if so why do I have to buy the license?
I think I answered this on the other video. But for other people reading, you'll need to purchase a tuning license per vehicle to authorize use of the software.
I have that same catch can but had to remove it because it was rubbing against the upper radiator clamp and was shaving down the catch can … how to fix that ?(g35 coupe)
I have resonated test pipes and have a high flow cat in my Motordyne XYZ pipe. Here's how my car sounds ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-saOUPH4TEyk.html
Hey I finally got Kinetix HFCs and a Top Speed Pro 1 Exhaust system which to me sounds like the Motordyne ART and TDX2 system. I was wondering if I was to get headers, in particularly the DC Sport SS headers, will it throw a check engine light resulting in a needed tune or can I go without the headers and not need a tune and not have to worry about a check engine light?
The HFC are most likely going to throw a check engine light. Highly recommend an UPREV tune whether you put headers on or not. The car has a lot more mid range and low end power with headers though.
@@AnthonyJ350 also if I will get the check engine light I might as well get headers then but I just want to be able to pass Ny State Inspection which is why I am so concerned about the check engine light.
@@DragoMusivini You should pass after a tune. The HFC go in the same position as the originals. You'll be happy with full exhaust and a tune. Car really comes alive.
@@AnthonyJ350 So you think even though the link I gave you says this that it will still throw a check engine light? And if so do you think I would have recourse from Kinetix?
