I have watched several RU-vid videos on the Sterling rear axle reassembly. In my opinion, this video is the best I have found.. It is well organized. No nonsense. Thanks--good job.
I really appreciate the video, for me being a first timer trying it out, I wish you could have filmed your entire process. This is extremely helpful. Thank you!
@@KBWheelin Thanks man! YEah just ordered the clam shell bearing puller kit and adapter as well as all the setup bearings and races. so that should get my going pretty good. Pretty sure i did buy a dial indicator at some point, just gotta find it.
@BuildItWheelItExploreIt I used the csf9 but call Yukon because I can’t remember for certain that the newer 10.5 uses the same. I am pretty sure it does.
Excellent video!!! I wish I would have seen this prior to installing a gland nut! QUESTION PLEASE! So I'm in the middle of this exact install. Got a great pattern drive and coast. I got the football on drive side and I would say the coast side looks a little like a feather shape. I would say nearly identical to yours. -Patterns are centered. -Pinion bearing preload is 20-22 inch lbs. Avg B/L is .008. . -Pinion depth is .028 .002 B/L variation runout on teeth which I attribute to the phosphate coating on the new gears. I've made sure to mark the location of the dial indicator base on the housing and take the B/L measurement closest to the same location / angle possible each time on the teeth. New Ford E-lock Carrier which has .001 runout. New Yukon 4.88s. All new Timken bearings and races. No noise on drive whatsoever, but I've got tiny, faint noise on deceleration. I'm thinking I should increase the preload to the end of spec at 35 in/lbs as I suspect it's unloading a little causing the pattern to change on the coast side. This is a daily, not a wheeler so trying to make her quiet as possible. I'd really love your input on this.
So two things I would say first 1 have you already been driving around on them? If so leave them cause they wear in and you don’t want to make changes on them after driving you want to complete the break in proses and leave them in my opinion. 2 aftermarket gear sets are known for being noisy in different ways depending on on the brand I have installed Yukon gears and everything was perfect yet they had a noticeable noise on the freeway compared to my motive gears.
Thanks so much for replying! I put about 14 miles on them slow and easy under 45mph as I was trying to complete the first break in/heat cycle so the phosphate coating is about gone. I'm definitely thinking this a gear quality issue given your opinion and other's I've read. I'm going to send these back and try a set of Motive's. I've installed a few Yukon sets in the past and they didn't whine on coast like these do. This isn't the first time I've built a differential, but it is the first time I've done a set of 4.88 Yukon's. I really appreciate the input sir. I've also noticed the factory B/L spec is .010-.015". Obviously we want to go with the gear manufacture's recommendation which for these is .006"-.010". I'm sure the pattern would move towards the heel with that much B/L for this set of gears. Thank You again for your time and advice sir. Happy Wheelin! @@KBWheelin
After watching your video I will say the 10.5 set up is pretty much identical to the Ford 8.8, shims on the outside of the carrier. I definitely like that design better than the Dana which go under the bearings, set up bearings are a must. I just did a D44 and an 8.8 for my Jeep. I Enjoyed the video!!!
I have set up dana axles both ways with the shims under the bearing as as well as on the outside the jk 44s are outside the bearings making little shims a pain at times lol glad you enjoyed the video!
So how did you get from not having any shims to get preliminary preload to adding the crush sleeve eliminator stack in final assembly? Wouldn’t you have to be taking the pinion in and out a few more times in final assembly to get the shims correct?
This has a crush sleeve eliminator in it and is what sets your hearing preload. The shims behind the pinion are what set the pinion depth into the ring gear. So no you wouldn’t really need to remove the pinion to adjust the bearing preload shims on the crush sleeve eliminator. But yes you would for the pinion depth, hope that makes sense.
To get the pre load with the crush sleeve eliminator I take the full stack and then start reducing the number of shims to gain preload then swap shims to fine tune it.
So was the carrier preload set by just adding .008” I’m assuming .004” on both sides to keep it centered and the patten how you set it without carrier preload?
Thank you. So the step are set pinion depth I always recommend starting with the oe shim Then set the side shims for the carrier which with adjust you backlash Then check pattern if it is to shallow or to deep take everything apart and adjust pinion depth then adjust the side shims to get backlash into spec then check pattern again.
Perfect video, 2 questions I didn’t see the part number for the ford elocker. Also I’m assuming your using 10.25 gears bc motive doesn’t make 5.38s for 10.5s? I’ve only found nitro 5.38s for the 10.5s
Part number is BC3Z-4026-B forgot to put it in there lol. Yes I’m using 10.25 gears I think I mentioned it but you can use either gears most aftermarket companies just sell 10.25 and when installing into a 10.5 just use the 10.25 install kit the only difference between the two is the pinion bearing
Yeah I did catch that, I was just curious why the choice of using 10.25 vs the 10.5. I did a little research and the 10.25 stuff is cheaper and more companies have 5.38s for 10.25.
Mainly used them just cause of the availability. Most aftermarket companies don’t really offer gears for the 10.5 as you found, and most the do don’t have a lot of them on hand so they end up on back order more often so I find it easier to just run the 10.25 gears
I always start with the original shim stack when possible otherwise Yukon gear and axle for example have a sheet listing factory the factor shim for depth but it is always starting point.
I usually start with the oem shim and make adjustments front there. I have a clam shell hearing puller so I can remove the bearing without damage so I can make changes
Yes I adjusted the pinion depth with shims I am doing a super duty front axle right now and will try to make sure I show the shims when I make my adjustments
I always put them between the pinion head and bearing but it will be fine in either location really it’s just personal preference and I have a bearing puller so It’s pretty simple
No I started with the factory shim and somtimes you get lucky and like it this case it is spot on. I have another video from a different axle where I had to make several adjustments. No the crush sleeve has nothing to do with the backlash it is for setting the pinion bearing preload on final assembly
@KBWheelin I have the clamshell one and the two piece one neither will grab the pinion bearing race without destroying the cage first I'm afraid if I press my new bearing on the pinion and need to make adjustments I won't be able to remove it again without destroying it
