Superduty 4.10 gears and Eaton truetrac install 

Thanks for watching and commenting.

Takes patience and multiple attempts but I enjoy doing gears. Thanks for watching.

Thanks bud

Yes sir, I don’t care for a gear oil bath. Thanks for watching.

He has the rancho 3.5 leveling kit with 1” blocks and ad a leaf in the back that I put on when it was still my truck and running 35s. Thanks for watching pal

Update on the BTS trans getting installed or how the rear end is doing?

Yea, but it’s been a long time. Those clutches are pricey

What oil are you running

Funny you ask about the front axle, we just finished video doing his front, I got rushed in the reassembly because I had to go rescue someone broke down, but I will edit it and get it posted soon. Thanks for watching.

Video of front end is up.

Troy hasn’t gotten to use it off-road really since I still have to do the front diff in his truck to use 4wd but he has said in wet road conditions on laying it on hard on dry pavement the truck hooks good and leaves 2 solid marks on the road and doesn’t seem to be a harsh lock up but smooth. Hope that helps.

Truetrac’s only weakness is when a tire leaves the ground, and then all you have to do is drag the brakes and it’ll find traction.

Did you completely seat the tone ring

I do it because I feel like it’s the most accurate way to set everything up and checking backlash so that the inner pinion bearing has preload on it so that it has the small amount of resistance created from the crush sleeve. Not saying I’m right or wrong, just the way I’ve always done it and have yet to have a failure out of any I’ve built. Thanks for watching.

@@johnnycortez46 if you don’t have 4.10s you got 3.73s. The 4.10 make the truck feel more peppy, and the truck will be happier when you do tow. To me 4.10s and 35s are a great combo. I can squeeze 21mpg out of my ole 7.3 if you drive it right on a road trip with the same combo.

@AutomedicGarage well that is some good information to know. Since yours is a 7.3 engine and mine is a 6.0 does that matter?

@@johnnycortez46 the 6.0 and the 5r110 combo are a little more forgiving for turning larger tires with no gear change.

@@AutomedicGarage Thank you for the input. Much appreciated

4.88 should give you more than enough gear and you can’t go wrong with the truetrac. Thanks for watching

So I went with 5.13 with the Truetrac waiting for everything to arrive. . And I’m just hoping everything works out with the Truetrac. Is there any noise turning corners or any noise at all?

@@re9473 No feels not different than the factory LS other than it locks up better.

No noise at all from the Truetrac. It’s been working flawlessly.

35s. 4.10s and 35s are a perfect combo in my book for pulling and fuel mileage. I get 21 on the highway in my personal 7.3

@@AutomedicGarage what part number for the gears? I went to a shop here in Florida and they are trying to tell me I need to use Yukons 10.25” ring and pinion gear set along with the 10.25 master install kit. Only gear ratio I can find for 10.5” is 4.11. I really appreciate you guy’s channel and the quality of your videos

@@johnthurmanmerman I’ll check with Troy on where he got them at. He bought it all from the same place.

@@johnthurmanmerman rvautoparts.com

Troy loves it, was the first I’ve installed but I like it also.

@@AutomedicGarage I appreciate the video, looking into doing a truetrac for my 94 Cummins swapped ford

Yes, we just didn’t at the time because as mentioned at the end we were regearing for the trip to BTS so he could tune the trans with the 4.10 ration in mind.

Pinion depth must be adjusted to achieve the proper gear mesh. High contact needs more pinion depth or low contact/root contact needs less and all that is determined when you check your gear pattern with the marking paint.

@Automedic Garage ohhhhh so if that's the case you don't need to torque it down like other videos suggest???

@@ruizg26 no I torque as if it’s the final install every time, I want to feel how the gears turn, measure the bearing preload which I go by feel and you don’t want any discrepancies with backlash or gear pattern from maybe a not fully seated bearing. I also make sure I have some oil on the bearing because it changes the feel and resistance vs a dry bearing.

@@AutomedicGarage awesome info thank you for the feed back

I've seen some people use the old crush sleeve when checking the pinion depth. That method makes sense to me because the crush sleeve is only there to keep force against the nut so it doesn't back itself off over time. I like your suggestion of grinding the old pinion bearing race for clearance and using it as a setup bearing, however I would want to check how far the new bearing sits inside the new race and old race first to make sure it's exactly the same. Thanks for the video. I'm about to swap a Truetrac into my F250 to replace the Tracloc LSD that has been chattering and giving me problems because the carrier is grooved where the clutch ears contact it.

Ooook

​@@AutomedicGarage I've never done a rear before, but I do build multi million dollar jet engines for a living. Bearing handling is a huge thing. Bouts to do new gears and a trutrac in my f100. Besides the bearing handling, good video.

@@seethesvt I didn’t put anything dirty in that rear. It has 40k hard miles on it since then. No problems. Thanks

@@AutomedicGarage like I always say "shit happens when you fart naked."

From the factory 10.5s are set up with shins between the pinion head and the inner bearing, after market set ups such as nitro, Yukon etc sometimes come with both shins for between the pinion head and shins for the inner race or just shins for the inner race. I prefer the inner race shin set up, it’s easier for setup purposes than pressing the bearing back off the pinion for adjustment. They both have the same effect wether between the head and bearing or between the race and axle housing which is move the pinion closer to the ring gear. Look it up. Plus the shins that go between the head and bearing wouldn’t even fit right for going behind the race. The inner pinion bearing race is a different diameter than the carrier bearings or pinion shaft so this shows that that’s where these shims go. Thanks for watching.

@@AutomedicGarage well then aftermarket is making it easier to set up then. Thanks.

@@kenthuntsingersr7501 wasn’t trying to sound like a jerk it does make it a lot easier.

@@AutomedicGarage Been a few years since I set up a Sterling rear. Guess this is something new for easier set up.

@@kenthuntsingersr7501 yea I use the old race for setup purposes and grind down the outer seating surface some so you don’t have to beat it in and out until you have everything setup right, then once you know your shims are right install the new race. There’s usually no difference in your back lash or gear pattern or if there is it isn’t enough to matter. Makes things a lot easier I think. On a Dana 80 you can’t shim the pinion this way you have to press the inner bearing on and off and put the shims between it and the pinion and the Dana 80 or at least all that I have done don’t use a crush sleeve, you only use shims.

In jail again?