Fall fertilizer seeding mowing, weed control, aerating & the most important application of the year! 

WOW!! thanks Rich!. I am little over a year into this and nearly 5000K subscribers. It's been a lot fun. Becoming more tacky as well for an older guy. Need to find a 20 year old to help me with the editing. But I am getting there. :)

Thanks so much for the kind and encouraging words. Ya it's been the toughest summer in several years. I am in my second year with the channel. My intention was to seed under my maple tree this fall. I did not do much to the back yard. It is really thin. Hope to get my seed this week and get the party started. I am very excited about this custom blend I have put together.

Glad I can help!!!

Yep you can go out in late October in NC. Just so you get it down before thanksgiving you should be good. You can also do a glyphosate application on dormant 419 around mid February any take out any poa or weeds that you have as well. At prestonwood CC in Cary we wound put out barricade w/glyphosate together in February. Putting barricade in mid to late fall it is unlikely you will need the glyphosate app.

The Scotts for seed should be put on at seeding or just before. So if you have already seeded you may set back the new seedlings if they have popped. Are you trying to control weeds?

Yes, it’s a neglected area and was mostly weeds and moss in back yard in shade. There is a line where the Bermuda ends and this area starts due to shade. My lawn service won’t treat it because the other areas are 7,500 sf of Bermuda and 12,500 sf of zoysia in front yard.

They are all group 3 pre emergent herbicides for cool season grasses. I do like dimension better for summer weed control tho. Tenacity is a group 27 herbicide and is considered a pre and post emergent however it only provides 30 of so days of pre emergent control.

@@GregPhillips.22thanks for the reply. Keep the content coming!

Yep. Used it last week that I will be seeding soon. Wanted to get it out of there for leaf blades uniformly.

@@GregPhillips.22 okay awesome!

If you are referring to the University of Tennessee study on the use of Katana (Flazasulfuron) and other group 2 herbicides in fall for control of poa annua, Dr. Eric Reasor put a narrative of the study together. I will put a link to it link below. My statement of using a multiple group herbicides through the year to prevent weed resistance was not a misstatement. That is true. On the Katana label under section 2. Weed Resistance Management…. the label of the herbicide confirms my guidance. “Rotate the use of Katana Turf Herbicide or other Group 2 herbicides within a growing season sequence or among growing seasons with different herbicide groups that control the same weeds” It says “among growing seasons” which means as far apart as the next growing season and not in the same application which what the UT study looked at. Celsius (Dicamba, Iodosulfuron-methyl-sodium, Thiencarbazone-methyl) which has multiple active ingredients also says this as well. Nearly verbatim. The study also advocated fall applications of post emergent herbicide. I do not recommend that at all. Reason being, if the lawn is not completely dormant it can weaken warm season grasses prior to dormancy which can lead to winter kill. Also, it is likely to be an unnecessary cost. If the pre-emergent sufficiently controls weeds to the homeowner’s stratification, then you are spending money, time, putting another herbicide into the lawn and running the risk of chlorosis (yellowing) of the lawn. Celsius and Katana are “mild” herbicides and do not cause the yellowing as others however, why take the risk? Then there is Katana’s label itself which also is consistent with what I was advocating. Under section 6.3 Removal of Annual bluegrass (Poa annua) from listed warm-season turfgrasses Katana’s label states: “Applications made in the spring provide the best control. Applications made in the fall or winter seasons are slightly less effective. Not only does the label advocate for spring applications of group 2 herbicides, if you have overseeded with ryegrass for winter color applying at that time will clean the yard up nicely. Will leave a link to Katana’s label also below. As far as practicality, the smallest container I can find of Katana is 5 oz and cost over $200. Its over $300 on do my own. Celsius not only has three active ingredients which gives it a broader spectrum of control. It also comes in 0.22 oz packets and cost $17 each. Katana if you need to control broadleaf weeds you will have to add it to the tank. Celsius with the Dicamba already in it much covers most broadleaf weeds. There is Negate (Metsulfuron & Rimsulfuron) is $55 for a 1.5 oz container. Katana is just not practical for homeowners. As far as poa annua control in cool season grasses. Other than Tenacity (Mesotrione) which is a group 27 herbicide and according to the label “suppresses” poa annua. There is only Prograss (Ethofumesate) group 16 that have any post emergent activity on poa annua for cool season grasses. Prograss is not labeled for residential use so that is not an option. I known superintendents that have use Prograss for poa annua control and its very risky. Often really sets back the desirable turf. Basically, for cool season grasses there is only using Group 3 pre-emergent herbicides and strategic timing of cultural practices like aerification, dethatching etc. at times that does not benefit poa annua germination. So the “rotation” options are limited in cool season grasses to say the least. www.pbigordonturf.com/how-to-control-poa-annua-annual-bluegrass-and-properly-manage-herbicide-resistance/ www.domyown.com/msds/Katana_Turf_Herbicide_Label_2022.pdf

@@GregPhillips.22 Likely could be the same trial based on your link but I assume it was not published. There is a lot more covered by Dr. Brosnan in those videos than what is outlined in this PBI link. And the videos are from March of 2024. The PBI has no link to the study, just a date of 2021 when he spoke to Dr. Brosnan....Just go their page. There are 3 videos appropriately titled....Furthermore, the PBI link says right there "Tank-mixes of PRE and POST herbicides have provided the most consistent Poa annua control in research trials (university and PBI-Gordon) across multiple sites and resistant populations". The problem is, who here is getting acceptable control from pre products on poa? Not many in the past 10 years in my experience. Come March-May the forums are off the rails with DIYers trying to figure it out. There is some risk of winter kill for sulfonylureas while in transition, but if you're talking about bermduagrass that is pretty low risk. So, yeah. If a home owner if cool with their result, who cares. But if they keep getting it over and over again and we keep telling them the same thing over and over again, shame on us! Based on those videos, there seems to be something there on fall post applications of group 2's. And if your are following BMP's from resitpoa . org. Here it is directly from the website "Emphasis on both preemergence followed by early-postemergence means of control, which effectively reduces the amount of annual bluegrass exposed to postemergence strategies"....Things are changing for good reason so we can't rely on old techniques. Negate is not a good rec for homeowners IMO. Unless they have at least an acre or close to it, or are able to use the whole bottle quickly and have the ability to use a nurse tank. And Celsius alone doesn't work well on mature poa. There is evidence that it does work well as a fall treatment on in those UT videos, but for poa in the spring I'd look elsewhere. Its a great product but for mature poa, probably not. You missed Velocity PM (which is questionable) and Xonerate for cool season post poa control. I don't believe those are RU, and not sure where price falls. I might suggest rewatching what you said at 7:44. There is no mention of using katana or other sulfonylureas or group 2 herbicides for poa control. It just says using herbicides later in the year. That needs more clarity as you we have both commented here. This was the point of my comment! And again, maybe you would have clarified in a different video, but it is not accurate as stated. Seems like it was off the cuff, so probably just a misstatement. That is unless you are claiming that using any different group herbicide, even if not a poa control product is going to reduce resistance in poa. Say for example, quinclorac. Also, they have found resistance of indaziflam in poa. Check out resistpoa . org. Looking forward to that poa control video!

Tall fescue or Bermuda. I actually have a seed / grass selection video if you want to check it out. I went to Bermuda in 2018 and it paid off this summer. Here is my grass video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-f8eDZDvYBhQ.htmlsi=mUExkIxY27Q6EVMw

It's actually a total of 4.8 lbs of slow release in the form of sulfur coated urea. 40lbs X .12 (% sulfur coated urea) = 4.8lbs 24% Nitrogen 12% urea 12% Sulphur coated urea= 24%N. 40 lb bag will do 9,600 ft2 @ 1 lb of nitrogen/1000 ft2. Welcome to find what works best for you.

Thanks for the comment! I appreciate feedback.

Propicanizole particularly if you are getting night temperatures below 70 degrees. You still may have pythium if so you actually will need both to get you through September

Oxadiazon G. I have used it on golf courses and it does last a very long time. Had a few golf course superintendents have problems with overseeding with rye in the fall after putting it out in the spring. But if you are not overseeding Bermuda that is a good thing. There is a concern with root pruning with pre-emergent herbicides. It is also not a concern with new sod. What I would recommend. Let it go for now and do one of two things. One. if your Bermuda goes dormant you can do a dormant application of glyphosate (roundup) on your bermuda and take care of any weeds you may have. I did that in Fairways, tees and rough in the Carolinas in mid February. The other option is a Celsius application after spring green up. Then put your pre-emergent down. Oxadaizon is a great pre-emergent but it is pricey. Celsius application will run you about $34 bucks for the average yard. Then go out with dimension (my preference) with a fertilizer. Generally that is the cheapest option when you are putting our pre-emergent and fertilizer at the same time.

THANKS!!! One other suggestion is a bluegrass blend from Tri City Seed called Blu Envy. I talk about it at the 21 minute mark in my grass selection video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-f8eDZDvYBhQ.htmlsi=nCnY8EHG0V3rag0o Blu Envy has 4 varieties of bluegrass that are in the top 20 in the National Turfgrass Evaluation Program trials. One is ranked #1. You can get it from amazon. Link to Blu Envy here. amzn.to/3Xm3a5i Pd Ad

Have two acres at home that I am transforming into a short game practice area. Will keep rough as TTF but loosing turf on greens and fairways due to TTFs hatred of low cut

Options are either ryegrass or bluegrass. Ryegrass would be easier. You can mow it as low as 1/2 inch and it will take it fairly well. Tall fescue can't take that "fairway" mowing height. Also ryegrass has a 3 to 7 day germination time so it will pop up quick. Lesco's double eagle ryegrass would be a good move . It comes in 1, 5, 10, 25 and 50 lb bags so you can get the seed you need without having a bunch left over. BUT order a little extra and seed your divots with a seed/sand mix. Seed it at 7 lbs /1000 ft. Here is an Amazon link. amzn.to/473vhcl Bluegrass would

So long as you do not intend to seed. You are putting a pre emergent down which will inhibit germination of desirable grass BUT will keep weeds from germinating well into winter and early spring.

Sounds like you have my yard just MUCH further south. Instead of common Bermuda go with Monaco bermudagrass. It is a seeded variety that rivals some of the top notch varieties such as 419 or Tahoma 31. You can get that on Amazon will leave a link below. You MAY want to wait until spring to do that. If you bermudagrass in your area goes dormant before Thanksgiving. If it is after you can seed within the next couple of weeks. Pushing it to go further. You can try tall fescue under the trees that is likely the only seeded grass that will work under trees. If you have a sod far near you and they have plugs you can put in go with St. Augustine. It is the most shade tolerant of warm season grass. Monaco bermudagrass seed. a.co/d/40flMoB

@@GregPhillips.22 we barely go dormant in Dec or January around here. Did celebration Bermuda around the pool and house last year late September with no problems. I was also thinking of doing clover (for ground cover mostly bc man it's 105 and no rain for July & August) + Bermuda (got thin Bermuda on back 2 acres) bc the existing Bermuda alone hasn't spread much with so much drought last 3 years and the clay is cracking open in those bare spots so thought clover mix might help. Either way I got lots to do this fall lol!

bermuda should be able to take the heat but mine here in WV actually got drought stressed this year. As far as the clover. Some day would like to do a "ground cover" video. it's cool to expand and be creative beyond just growing grass. Atta boy for thinking outside the box.

Only if you have weeds. If you were going with one go with meso. Will not need both.

@@GregPhillips.22apply before or after seed & peat is down? Thanks in advance ❤

sorry just saw this. you can apply meso before or after.

Can go out in September. But you want to do a fertilizer application just before the grass slows down for winter. You want the sugars up going into winter. That is the first frost ap is for. If you do an application in Sptemeber you can go at a low rate in October. I know we..I am next to you in WV..can still get into the 90s until the 2nd week in September. Turf may still be under heat/drought stress depending on year. Until we start getting consistency in the low 80s and night time temps in the high 50s with good rain. Turf will take in the Nitrogen when out of stress. If it's still stressed it won't take it up.

@@GregPhillips.22 Any opinion about “fall nitrogen blitz?” Spoon feeding grass with .25 urea?

Excellent videos as always!!! I'm up here in the north east, Cape cod mass, getting my seed and starter fertilizer ready for labor day weekend overseeding with dethatching/ aerating, what do u recommend for the pre emergent around Thanksgiving? Thanks and keep the informative videos coming!!!

sorry just saw this. I have seen the "nitrogen blitz" videos. Just a catchy name for fall fertilization. Cool season grasses fall nitrogen is the most important ap of the year. I am not a catch phrase type of guy. Just do what needs to be done and use the KISS method. Keep It Simple Stupid :). Bottom line....lb perhaps as much as a 1 1/4 of Nitrogen on your cool season turf at first light frost is what you need to do. Ideally with a fertilizer that has 20 to 50% slow release nitrogen.

Interesting..I wound like to see a university study on it. Scott's usually has good advice. Was surprised I could not find a study on it. I keep my advice based on university data/studies/research so unless I see something from them I usually question it. Good to know it helps you!!