Advice and guidance on home lawn sports fields and site reclamation. I have a bachelor degree in Agronomy from NC State over 30 years experience in golf course management, golf course construction and land restoration. I have worked with Palmer Course Design, served as a golf course superintendent, project manager in several restoration projects. I have been a licensed pesticide applicator in 4 states. Videos are “get to the point” giving you the information you need quickly and precisely.
Can I just apply Scotts GrubEx once every spring, and be pretty well protected all year? It's easier to source and the granules are easier to apply than spray, in my situation. Armyworms did lots of damage last month after TS Debby delivered them, so I am starting over now. Was not using anything. Learned a hard lesson. Thanks for the video!
It depends on when you put ex down and your late year "pressure". If you put it down in May you should be ok until October however this has been a warmer summer than usual. I believe we are having warmer weather later thus, we are seeing higher grubs populations and other insects later than normal.
Rule of thumb.. no herbicide apps 6 weeks before dormancy. Since you are going after poa annua and other weeds you could apply after dormancy has completely set in. If you are more than 6 weeks from dormancy you should be ok.
I already overseeded in Sept and used tenacity as a pre. I normally use prodiamine in the spring for general prevention but after this, I'm thinking of the 3 doses tenacity now to knock out any left over Poa come next March into April.
That is what I would do. You get 30 days of pre emergent action with tenacity. So that will help you in the spring. Then follow up with prodiamine or dithiopyr.
You are indeed a science evidence based trained agronomist. Not some technician or homeowner experimenting by anecdotal trial and error. You read the literature and know how to analyze and think critically🙏 Keep up the great work. Wishing you great continued success 👍
I appreciate that!!! There are a lot of folks with good intentions but can get folks into trouble. Feel free to spread the word in your social media. If I can help folks it makes me happy!!!
Thanks Greg! Another really helpful video. I was especially surprised about the watering schedule you advised. Most videos are telling use to water 3 to four times a day. I have, unknowingly, followed your schedule of between 1 and 3pm and maybe a shot ,if temperatures have risen, in early morning. I do have one question concerning fertilizing. Like to know your view on the use of liquid fertilizer, especially when reseeding Many thanks again for informative videos. Anthony
I am a bit old skool when it comes to liquid fertilizers. I have not used them as much as I have liked. Many of the studies I have seen show you get best results in using both granular and liquid during the year. I say go for it just follow the label on rates on the product you use.
That is it. Like to get more into watering but trying to keep video at a reasonable length. (At least tried). Need to keep seed moist from time of seeding until 7 days after germination.
Great video as usual thx! Question: If you have a bunch of clumping fescue in spots - presumably from a contractors mix years ago - is it best to spot treat those (ie - glysophate and overseed) or just start all over? Thx
Yep..you can also use "the sponge method to apply the glyphosate to prevent drift into the desirable grass. See the video attached. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CODSF7UALus.htmlsi=KCrVQqnIg0AhQmxt
Great, informative video with lots of budget saving tips! Would love to see how the lawn is looking now. Also, do you have any tips on slow growth of new grass. I got quick germination, but certain areas seems stuck at 2 inches of growth while other areas have gotten up to 4 inches. Is it an issue with the soil (i.e., compaction, too much water) or is it that the grass is just concentrating on rooting more than top growth?
it is likely a compaction issue I actually made a video on how to fix those spaces that are not nor did not come up well. If you are seeing germination in those areas it is likely lower spots that are getting a little more water than the others. One thing you can do is take a pitchfork and push it into the ground and slightly lift the soil. Not enough to disturb the new seedlings but enough to disturb the soil and relieve the compaction. He is a follow up video I made on this technique. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4OsUqZDWNqE.htmlsi=dwxROwOo7SAwi9rK
@30:15 great advice. I did the starter fertilizer on the same day as overseed for my TTTF and started seeing some germination on day 6 after overseeding. Sounds like i wasted 6 days of the product?
actually you are not that bad. 6 days is not a big deal it is when you seed bluegrass that takes 21 days to germinate or run weather that delays germination (high heat, no rain etc) and the seed does not start popping until a 10 to 14 days after the fertilizer application. Particularly if you get a huge rain event that washed most of the water soluble nitrogen away. you should be good!
Tenacity can be applied to centipede however, in centipede you have a better option. You will have to wait 14 day after application to seed Into your centipede but it will clean up your yard nicely. Celsius and Sledgehammer mixed together. Celsius takes care of the button weed, spurge and sledgehammer does an outstanding on both yellow and purple nutsedge. Unless you are south or Orlando Fl you may want to hold off on seeding centipede this late in the year. I am actually going to do a warm season seeding video in the spring.. Put the Celsius/Sedgehammer combo on your yard to clean it up for the fall. Then in the spring look at Tenacity and seed.
Greg, love your videos. They are best in brand. Just one thing, a bunch of your thumbnail images have typos in them. I think it will help the channel out if you fix those.
I have an area on a hill by pool that is in poor shape and I want to smooth out and reseed. It’s warm season in Louisiana so I was going to do Rye but would it be a waste to mix Bermuda since it’s almost winter?
Wound be tough to put out Bermuda now. I went from ryegrass to Bermuda years ago and it's not a hard thing to do. If you have cover on it now so that it won't erode over the winter. Wait until mid late April and seed in Bermuda. I wound recommend Monaco Bermuda grass or Rivera .Monaco seems to be more available. You can actually get it on Amazon.
AMAZON LINKS TO ALL PRODUCTS & SPREADER SETTINGS FOR BLUEGRASS & BERMUDAGRASS SEED IN THIS VIDEO BELOW. Mulch blade used to prepare the yard. amzn.to/3AVqxJP Replacement springs for mulch blade. amzn.to/3XuuCOk Tenacity herbicide for seeding. Can't be used on bermudagrass. amzn.to/3Xs1WWa Torocity Herbicide "Generic" Tenacity- Mesotrione Concentrate amzn.to/3X1fk1W Scott's for seed with Mesotrione & starter fertilizer. Do not use on bermudagrass. amzn.to/4dQtlqn Glyphosate Roundup. This only has glyphosate in it. www.amazon.com/dp/B0008309SW/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_DJAZ7E9R4RK0NKBKMASQ?linkCode=ml2&tag=gregphil22-20 Spreader settings. Bluegrass is approximately 150 SGN. Bermuda is approximately 100 SGN. www.advancedturf.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/ats-granular-fertilizer-guide.pdf Fiskars Tiller Cultivator "Garden weasel" www.amazon.com/dp/B007WQBELE/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_RK9WCCNYTD8XY88EF61Z?linkCode=ml2&tag=gregphil22-20 Adjustable metal leaf rake I like this take and it's cheep. amzn.to/4dKI31Y Starter fertilizers: I like any of these. I have chosen them on price, analysis, and the amount of slow release nitrogen in them. Also they come in different size bags so you can get what you need. 15-20-10 Starter Fertilizer - 20% Slow-Release. You can get it in 18, 25 & 45 lb bags. Depending on the size of your lawn. High rate is 5lbs1000ft low 8lbs/1000 ft. amzn.to/3TA9AeP Fertilome New Lawn Starter Fertilizer 9-13-7 also comes in different sizes. High rate is 8lbs/1000ft2 low rate is 5lbs/1000ft2. amzn.to/4g4Brx9 For large yards this Lesco 18-24-10 is a good option. It's comes in a 50lb bag and will do 12,000 to 24,000 sq ft./bag amzn.to/3Z1u3fY Irrigation timers 2 station amzn.to/3Z6DydG 4 station. amzn.to/3Z7vPfF Sprinklers I like these metal ones. They throw a lot of water a long way adjustment of 90, 180 to full circle is easy. amzn.to/4e8ERxg I am an Amazon associate. It does not affect the price you pay. The vendor gives me a small percentage of the sale for the links above. I only recommend products I believe are the best on Amazon. Use Amazon because these products are internationally available. Pd Ads.
Ethofumesate/Tenacity tank mix, Tenacity at .12oz rate and label on etho ive heard is an October play as well. Your thoughts? Thanks for making this video, I ruined my 2023 reno with poa a, because I aerated in April.
Interesting combo. I have not used Ethofumesate. It has a narrow scope of weeds it controls. It is a group 8 herbicide and tenacity is a group 27. So you would have two different modes of action going out on the same time to control the poa. Will have to look into it more. Thanks for brining it up. Like to get new ideas!
Great vid. What is your thoughts on holes per sqft? Core size? Is hollow tine actually that much better than solid tine? I am a maintenance foreman in Corvallis OR. Ty
Usually limited by the machine you have. I always try to do hollow tines in the spring and fall. Only times I prefer solid tines is when I am doing deep tine aerification (usually 10 to 12 inches deep.) where the tine enters the ground and then kicks to the side. Pushing the soil up just a little. Problem with doing that on a home lawn is equipment availability and possibly hitting utilities. Other times I like to use in solid tines is when I am spiking or slicing during stress. Just open up the soil for air exchange and water percolation. As far as spacing and size of tines...it depends on the equipment you have depth you want to go. For home lawns the more the better. When you talk about aerification and spacing it is a calculation of % soil disturbance. Ideally for golf greens some recommendations are as much as 20% per year. Nobody does that because you would have to aerate 4 to 6 times a year and the golfers would hang you for tearing up the greens that often. As far as size of tine. Generally the larger the better on home lawns, tees, fairways etc. usually 5/8. I have seen 3/4 and even 1 inch tines however, you wound have to have a BEAST of a tractor to get something that large into the ground. % soil disturbance it actually can be calculated. The formula from the UMass article below lets you play with size of tine and spacing. You can check it out. I may do a winter video on this. This is one of those topics I think some folks are interested in. However it's not practical for the majority of home owners because they really are limited to what they can rent, contract out or buy. ag.umass.edu/sites/ag.umass.edu/files/fact-sheets/pdf/management_of_compaction.pdf
Great information here. Thank You! I prefer to use the granular Scotts over the liquid tenacity on my KBG in the fall because even though tenacity doesn’t kill the KBG it still yellows it and fall is when my KBG looks its best. It just puts a damper on having the greenest lawn during prime time so to speak. For me this is show time for the lawn. I’m mowing a lush green lawn from now till at least Christmas with my KBG here in Philadelphia.
It's why I try to give as many options as possible. There are no silver bullets for many problems. I have not managed KBG much other than in golf course rough. Glad to get the heads up on yellowing of KBG. I will let folks know that is possible. I wondered about that myself because poa is simply annual blue. Would think genetically they are very similar. Now I am wondering is the yellowing from the foliar application phytotoxicity that grows out in a few days or does it affect the metabolism of the KBG???
@@GregPhillips.22 it will control and even kill off the poa with very very little damage other than the yellowing that occurs to the KBG in my experience using tenacity. The yellowing of the KBG does grow out in about two weeks but the lawn looks terrible for that time and like I said the fall is prime time for KBG so as a lawn nut like myself who looks forward to the fall for that fantastic lawn I just won’t use it in the fall in liquid form. I’m not educated at all in turf management I am just someone who has learned over the last 40 years what works and what doesn’t for me. I remember the first time I used tenacity and all the yellowing appeared. lol. I was in freak out mode and thought I killed my lawn. I have a video of what I call the aftermath of tenacity that shows how bad it will look. Check it out if you want.
Been using Tenacity for some years now but this year trying to defeat some bent grass while over seeding. I aware that it has post/pre emergent qualities but if I’m about to seed do I spray the bent grass with a surfactant and then spray rest of the lawn without or just blanket spray the entire lawn with surfactant. Pre emergent I know you have to water in so that is where the confusion comes in for me. Sorry for the essay! Thank you
Label calls for surfactant for post emergent applications. Just do the entire yard with a surfactant. I usually put 2 oz of non ionic surfactant per 4 gallon back pack sprayer =1/2 oz/gal.
I got rid of poa in my half acre of tall fescue in Charlotte by spraying prodiamine in early fall for 2 years, staying under the label max limits and also a spring application for crabgrass. If I have any more grow I will try your suggestion. What do you advise to get rid of that devil weed bermuda? I dislike bermuda even more than poa. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Tenacity "suppresses" Bermuda as well. I spreed it on some Bermuda in my tall fescue area of my lawn. It turned it white. Could try full rate now, again late October. Weaken it prior to dormancy. With the 2 aps and winter you likely will set it back significantly.
What are your thoughts on dissolving some baking soda in water and spraying on lawn to raise PH? There was a little known RU-vidr that did this dissolving 3 tablespoons of baking soda per gallon of water and spraying, my concern was the amount of sodium in baking soda
There are a ton of hacks out there that are goofy. Without doing the math my guess you wound need a lot of baking soda to lower the pH. So much so there wound be a chance you could damage the turf. 3 tbsp presumably over 1000ft would not do a thing for pH. Not enough alkalinity going out on the soil. Its why I ONLY take advise from University research. Outside of that waist time, money and damage the lawn.
On warm season grasses yes. If you have a healthy yard and/or not doing a fall overseeding of ryegrass I would also put out a pre-emergent in the fall as well. Third option on... bermudagrass you could skip the fall pre-emergent and do a dormant application of glyphosate in January/February with pre-emergent then as well.
I like negate. Many folks have had allot of success with it. There are several States you can not get it in. Also technically, you can only apply it to Zoysia and Bermudagrass. Other warm season grasses it is not labeled for residential application. So it gets a little complicated with Negate.
I'm in northern Ohio. Poa pressure on my lawn has been very high for years. I've used PGR, Anuew, thru the growing season to suppress the Poa. I've started a 3 application plan every 21 days of Ethofumisate at label recommendation level for TTF. I've also done 2 applications of Dimensions dithiopyr over the last 40 days. Your thoughts?...
You have a good program. PGR always gives me the willies mostly because many golf course superintendents have used a PGR program for poa annua control on bent grass greens. Soon after application they were surprised of how much poa they had. Greens looked bad for a while after starting the program. However, for a home lawn it is not that harsh. I like your use of dithiopyr as well. I did the same thing on all areas of the golf courses that I had for the same reason you are using it. If Mother Nature is kind to you and you can keep a good TF yard without having to overseed you have got a great program!
So question, if you have time. Live in New Jersey, seeded w/tall fescue on 9-11. This is an overseed of a Bluegrass lawn. I wanted to put Tenacity down at that point but nobody local had it in stock. By the time it showed up the seed was already popping. I was hoping maybe mid November ( hoping the new growth is strong enough )to try the program of .12oz per 1000 3 times then mid December hit it with a full shot. I am already planning GameUp (Primo) program the end of March to try to suppress the seed heads to try to stop it going forward. What ya think?
If it stays warm this late fall you may be fine. Throw this out to ya....do that "October program" for tenacity starting it off in early March. Providing you are getting the same winters we have been having. Then that third application of tenacity go full rate and re-seed any areas you are not happy with. That would go down mid/late April. I would think that may save you the primo application because the poa would be gone. That would also control winter weeds that popped up too... Seed TF in any bare areas where any poa or other weeds that got wacked. The tenacity will give you pre emergent coverage the month of May. TF matures enough for an early June application of pre-emergent for summer weed control.. Either program I think you would have good results with.
If you dont have bermudagrass sublime may be a good option. I go other weed control products in the video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-P-dbotnjJ8Q.htmlsi=CeZEM7W1oEWoecd1
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Very good video. Just getting ready to overseed with Rye and fescue in Colorado as its been hot up until the past 4 days. So, you don't recommend putting down peet moss or top mulch if I don't have much thatch? I will be aerating heavily.
Thanks!!! Have to check out my thatch video on thatch. I explain in more detail but..If you have rye and tall fescue you likely do not have any thatch. As far as topdressing with organic matter. Always mix it in to the soil. If you do not it can make an organic layer that slows percolation of water into the soil and discourages root growth deeper into the soil. Thatch video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DLpC3DVIq_I.htmlsi=Set60_SzeNB8hmzF Overseeding Correcting spots after overseeding (talk about topdressing with mulch) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4OsUqZDWNqE.htmlsi=ma1-r0GgNzR4oitX
Great vid Greg. Question on aeration - do you rake the cores up or leave them? My past experience with leaving them is that they mash down and spread out, smear the existing grass, and make a mess - especially if they are clayey! By design, I've always raked them up. Would appreciate your thoughts! Thanks a million!
I always dragged mine in. You got to find the goldilocks time where the cores are not too wet to where they squish and not too dry to where they won't break up. It's a little harder on clay soils. Sandy golf greens they break up easily. One other thing you could do....providing you had a cover for the outlet on your lawn mower. Run the mower over the yard to break them up or a dethatcher set on a high setting. Both will bust them up. Just got to watch the projectiles
You just need to keep the seed moist and maintain that moisture until a week after it's germinated. After that you can start backing off. Wanted to get more into that but video was running long.
how do you get prodiamine out of your lawn? i put it down in march and still can't seed. obviously my season over as its too late. what should i do for next time?
You would have to use an extremely high rate for prodiamine to be around that long. Did you happen to also use a post emergent herbicide? Also, it's been warm this last summer. Likely have well into October before you are too late to seed. Just so soil is above 60 degrees you should be fine.
@@GregPhillips.22 I never do measurements so yeah i probably used to much. i also did put down a joanthan green post emergent weed preventer. it says wait 2 months but its been much longer than that. i do agree though that you can seed well into October. I've seeded in November with success. Sucks that i lost most of this season tho
Great vid Greg but yikes, it looks like that dethatcher looks like it totally removes most all of the grass?! I just need to go over my lawn to remove some old thatch before I aerate. Thoughts? Thanks!
It is not a good "dethatcher" but good for overseeding or renovation. Most yards do not need to be dethatching. I explain in my video on thatch. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DLpC3DVIq_I.htmlsi=PJk723U7pOpnTmBy
Does the mulching blade with the springs remove all the good grass as well as the dead grass?? Next time please put a close up of the before and after dethatching so we can see how much is removed! Thanks!! :)
I actually had a lot of my existing tall fescue that did not get uprooted but he springs. What I found is most of the well rooted grass will stay where the weaker grass will be removed. For the patches of grass that are coming out of summer healthy just avoid those. No need to take that grass out or damaging it.
Likely will do one next spring. For the most part potassium and phosphorus should be put on based on soil tests. It's the Nitrogen applications that vary throughout the year. Then there is the species of how much to put on. Centipede for example only needs 1 lb/year of nitrogen. Bermudagrass as much as 4 lbs. Tall fescue, Rye and Bluegrass will do well with 2 to 4 lbs of nitrogen per year depending on line of latitude and how you want to manage the lawn.
Is there a generic brand for Tenacity that is cheaper and just as good at killing Burmuda grass and when should I put it on the Burmuda here in southern Kansas? Thanks!
