9:01 As jmmtcidc said below, the guy wire should go to from the bottom of the corner or the end post to the top of the adjacent post. I built fences for 35 years including many miles of farm fence. The guy wire at 3:19 is installed correctly.
FYI FOLKS....IF YOU'RE CONSIDERING GETTING A TSHIRT NOW IS THE TIME....ONLY 1 DAY LEFT OF THE T-SHIRT SALES..SO IT'S TIME TO JUMP ON IT IF YOU WANT A SHIRT OR TWO.....THANKS FOR HELPING SUPPORT A VETERAN FARMER!!✌
The brace is built incorrectly. In the configuration shown, the brace wire is pulling in the same direction as the fence wires. The brace wire should run from the bottom of the corner post to the top of the second post.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!! Fencing how-to's are the one thing lacking from all the homestead channels. Appreciate the effort you're putting in this to break it down so it's easy to understand :)
Josh love what you're doing here on you tube and even more the obvious fact that you're already out there helping your local neighbors! We nwed much more of this in the world today! Blessings friend!
Wow man that's cool that young man has his own channel and encourages other kids to be productive and learn the sport of the outdoors. They are the future of our sport
Glad to see somebody that knows how to build H braces properly...correct height, correct width and most importantly uses pins and ratchet strainers...oh, and does NOT use the totally ineffective crossed brace wires...and the folks that have been taught to use them will argue til the cows come home. I just ask them to check the brace wires after you're done and see if both of them are still tight - not possible....well, not possible if your fence is tight. I only use double H braces like in the video for long pulls, anything less than 75% of a roll I use single H and I've never had an issue. I did stop using the square drive ratchet strainers (that only turn from one side) and opted for the strainers that you use a specific tool made to adjust them - the tool contact is on both ends of the hub/spool so it puts even torque on the axle of the hub which keeps it from 1. breaking 2. trying to spin around as you tension the wire. I highly recommend a Pajik fence stretcher...no more bolting together 2x4's and wasting 8-10 feet of wire per pull, and they are quick - less than 2 minutes from attaching to pulling and only waste 1-2 feet of wire. Very informative video Josh. And your mini me friend knows his fencing. Good Job to the both of you.
Thanks for sharing! I wish this was here to view 15 years ago when we did our fence. One thing I learned the hard way was the brace pins. Hot dipped galvanized brace pins will last way longer than rebar. It’s a pain to replace later when they rust through and the field is full of cattle. 👍🏻
Really enjoyed the education of these techniques obviously well-thought out. 👍🏽Putting up fencing is a lot of work, and you've got to ask yourself how many times you want to do it, how many patch jobs, and how much material do you want to have to buy?! I'd rather do it right for the long-haul, and not fuss so much.
You should look into the gripple brace system. Great price for what you get. I am really happy the way you can go back and tighten while wire still in place. I would share a pic of my braces for you just not sure how, so look into them they are great
That rebar would be easier that the sawing and chiseling we did and barbed wire with a stick to tention the corners. Good stuff. Every build a rock jack? All the best!
Your buddy does a good job on the corner bracing. We built a bit of barbed wire fence on a ranch and you want good solid corners to stand up to the tension. Good job on the teen age vlogger.
In Australia we call these braces stays and often the corner post of a stay is heavier and of a larger dimametre than all the other posts also we would generally use a native hard wood eucoliptus post for that corner about ten inch diametre
For that, I just use 2 eye bolts, a piece of all thread, and 2 long nuts. I put the all thread in the center, the long nuts on either side, and the eye bolts in the nuts. Hook the wire on the eye bolts and use a open end wrench to tighten the wire.
Okay, not trying to be critical here, but... isn’t that brace wire installed incorrectly @ 8:26 ? It’s just opposite of how you described the way it should be. The way he did it the tension is going the wrong way! Or am I drunk? Lol, he explained it all at 2:48
I have no talent. I am working toward a healthier lifestyle, and lost 27 lbs since September 2017 to Now. That's it. lol I was hoping you'd show us the horse, awe. You Go Hayden! You Can Do It!
Thanks for the input brotha...not my fencing job....but stay tuned on the channel...we'll start our fencing project very soon....show ya how to do it right!
I was concerned with the diagonal as well. The brace post is supposed to keep the corner from moving toward the tension of the line fence. So something has to pull the top of the brace toward the corner so the horizontal post keeps the corner up. I realize it’s not your fence. With widely available Osage Orange (hedge) in the western Ozarks, that is what we used for all fencing except where it was too rocky to auger holes, and we drove metal through the sandstone then. Decent hedge posts can last 50 years. I’m replacing one stretch of a bit over 500 yards in a project now, and I think that fence is nearly 60 years old. It probably is about 20 past due to replace. Our corner braces were a little bigger than line posts, maybe 5-6”, and corners were 8-10”, with a 3-4” horizontal between them. We set and tamped the corner, augered the hole for the brace, then assembled the brace without filling and tamping it. That way, we didn’t need the second rebar piece any longer than the first one, and we didn’t have to auger the hole clear through the brace. Hedge was very hard to drill through with a brace and bit back before portable tools. We placed the horizontal about halfway up and ran 9 ga tension wire loops both directions. We didn’t have those ratchet tensioners, so just took a short stick and twisted the wire loop until the brace was a rigid unit. Then we filled and tamped the brace post.
Man Josh.....you guys could almost be brothers.So ....I will keep asking about your guitar set up.....You can do a vlog on that sometime.Anyway.....your neighbor and his son seems cool.Happy Easter and tell that kid......don't shoot the Easter Bunny.........118 here Josh.........Wooooo
My son fell in love with Kendall Gray who has a channel very popular good kid, great idea to promote that young man there is a huge need for our young people to develop a life other than looking at a screen, heck adults too
Rebar should not be used with pressure treated wood. The moisture in the wood will rust then out. You should only use galvanized pins, just like framers need to use galvanized nails on the sill plate because it is treated wood.
Any concerns with the tensioner with the sharp bits being on the inside of the fence with the animals? We have horses and are concerned about them scratching themselves if we use this method. Thx!
Am I missing something, or is the tensioned wire at 8:33 running the wrong direction? Shouldn't it be running from the top of the brace post back to the bottom of the corner post?
no....typically posts are driven and no concrete is needed. Dig and tamp/concrete or drive and no concrete. Honestly digging and putting concrete in a post hole is a pretty antiquated way of building ag fencing....check out some of our other fence vids....I've go a playlist with about 100 videos
Great video…. Questions: are those brace posts set 4’ in the ground and if so is concrete needed to secure them? What is the diameter of the posts? Thank you.
I am currently building a perimeter fence on a 1/2 acre lot with dimensions 127’ by 172’. I am using 8 foot by 6 in treated posts and set the corner posts about 24 inches in the ground. My plan is to build corner h brace fence and I am afraid I may have set the posts below the recommendation of 40 to 50% of the post for h brace. Looking back I should have at least set the posts 3.5 feet to 4 feet into the ground. Also, when I set my corner posts I set them in commercial grade concrete/cement at 24 in. My question is will this affect the way my h brace will hold up? My next step is to set the brace posts and cross bars but I am sort of at a standstill because the more I read into it it looks like I should have set them at 3.5 feet to 4 feet deep. Since it is such a short run I am thinking it might not impact it much. I plan on running 4 strands of 14.5-15 gauge barbless wire and I don’t plan on putting too much tension on it. I would like to get your thoughts on this. Thanks!
Shane.....some folks will just tear apart anything anyone does brotha....I really don't understand it......is the internet just somewhere that you go to rip someone apart? You and I both know those post will be in the ground for 20 or more years....and the bracing is just fine......it's not my bracing...and I may have done it a bit differently. We take you somewhere to show you something and you rip it apart....why? "City Farmers" you say....well...why is it that manners go out the door when you're on the internet?? It doesn't make you look better or smarter....why don't you educate us...teach all of us and give advice instead of smearing rudeness...if you're a country boy...then I'm sure you were taught manners
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer I appreciate your comment. He is right though brace post is too high, should be about 2/3 of way up from bottom. Also if those posts are treated pine they will last a long time, maybe 20 years...but i would not set them in concrete. Reason for that is it will cause water to pool near the base and the wood will rot over time. I only use concrete to set fiberglass posts for my electric fences and I used treated southern pine for woven wire fences
