The thing I liked about watching you two build fence? Was I wasn't either person!!! I've built miles of fence so I'm glad to let someone else build it and I'll just watch!🤣🤣😂😂🤩🤩 Thanks for the video.
Stoney Ridge , just a idear I fenced years ago and I used the netting on fences I was doing at the time as you are here and it was suggested to me by a retired Sheep and Cattle farmer to run a barb wire on the bottom nearest the ground to stop stock working under netting .Also the barb wont rot away like the netting would its easy to remove and replace if it ever did and netting would be pretty for donkey years.
We use the Gripple Plus in the vineyard for our trellising wires. They have a tensioning tool and multipacks that make it convenient. Game Changing Fun! Woooo!
It's funny that I had used Gripples for stretching trellis wire in our vineyard, so I recognized them immediately. But somehow had I never thought of using then for cattle fencing. Gonna have to try that!
Well, I am no expert but when you wrap a fence post I don't think you should staple the knot solid on the back of the post like that. This causes a twisting action on the post and will turn the post over time because the pull is trying to spin the post. If wrapped around and tied off to the live wire and allowed to centre itself when tightened the pull is centred on the post. I think this is why most instructions also tell you to cut off the vertical part of the fence when wrapping the post so you the wire is free to turn on the post. Aside from that, thanks for the video, it is always good to watch others work when I should be out doing the same!
many many other fencing vids on the channel...check out the fencing playlist! you'll learn so so much! This is the most popular ag fencing channel on the planet my brotha!
I prefer Farm Fence Solutions method which uses boundary strainers instead of the tractor to pull the fence. I did it your way for the past 30 years but after watching Luke’s channel, I changed to his method and feel like my end product is better. Thanks for the videos
Josh I just bought a small little farm 13 level Acer's of prime newly planted alfalfa fuel along highway 32 West in Missouri right off the new cedar Creek bridge that was built and opened in January of 2020...I now need to decide what to build and what to raise.. although I want a huge lake I'm only 5 minutes away from Stockton Missouri 25 thousand Acer clear water hidden gem.
The other good reason to not put the bottom of the fence too close to the ground is so you can weed eat without chewing thru your string (for those that plan to weed eat around the fenced area)
We have installed woven fence 6 inches off the ground and have had deer wiggle under it. I don't like putting it on the ground because of wire rot but have to for it to be effective.
We just invested in a 7 strand high tensile perimeter fence, we also made 5, woven wire [Double knot] secure paddocks, predator proof so they are close to the ground. We use flamer called a Red Dragon for weed control. Here in South Central Kentucky grass/ weeds etc grow insanely fast and we want to keep our fences in good shape. Great video and information.
Great instructional video. Just wondered why both galvanised n treated wood posts were not treated additionally with some kind of protective coating like tar or antioxidant (for galvanised posts) to further extend life of posts and ultimately fencing.
Here in central Texas and we mainly use reject pipe anf t-posts. Have the same stretcher, but you don't wasnt to nail anything down until you have finished tying off to your braces. Nailing should be one of the last things you do. Why? Because you want your braces to take the full weight of the fence; hence the reason its called a brace. Good luck.
How often do you need H braces in long straight runs? Also, should you tie off rolls of woven wire after each roll or is just using Gripples and staples for very long runs reliable?
Unfortunately your stapling was done incorrectly. Staples should be turned diagonal with the bevel on the tips of the staple rotated away from the wire. The bevel on the staple makes the tips of the staple expand outward and has a much stronger hold
Could you tell me how it works when you have uneven ground? Do you have to stretch and attach from each high point? Or what is the secret to keep it from having gaps at ground level? Thanks!
Redbrand is REAL fence ,wood posts throw out Staples,in Michigan we use nails ,they don't fall out,built miles of fence when l was young,I kinda miss it.
Brother I'd love to come visit your farm and see your operation. I'm always willing to learn anything new. Going from a military medic to farmer is a bit of a change.
And you have the perfect tool on your farm for keeping fence lines cleared of weeds in the form of the goats. With that type of fence you just need temp fencing on the side with the weed problem then send in the goats to eat all the weeds off the fence up to the distance that a mower can safely get up to it.
I have never used a tractor to stretch fencing. Just used an ol' fashioned fencing stretcher. Seems to go much quicker with the tractor though. Good video Josh!
Using a waffle head hammer with those staples is a good idea, I've found that those staples need to be "steered" most of the time to keep them from going in all kinds of wonky.
FYI, we call that ringlock in australia. It will be good for your goats and sheep when you do it at your place... Also we space out the wooden posts a lot further and have star pickets (t pickets) inbetween. And yes get some sheep, ok you have to shear them but they are so tasty, and nicer than eating goat..
Would you use this type of fencing for wooded areas? How will it hold up if a tree lands on it? The wife wants hog panels with 4-5" posts every 8' with a top rail post.
Pounded my man! You’ve definitely made a quick fan out of me! I’d be interested in a shirt and hopefully to visit the farm someday when the wife and I get done our deployments! We’re not too far away!
One trick that I have learned from fencing since I was a little kid mind you that was 40 years ago but still do today is get your fencing Staples rusted they hold way better
good stuff, i think you guys only weave those posts on interior fences ? Our perimeter fences are all on one side of the posts, and only stagger for livestock interior field fencing. Nearly all our feed stores and even our area home depots stock heavier duty fence like that. Thanks for sharing -
hahaha! Just picked up a roll of similar fencing today. Not doing a high tension design, however... I'm only closing in a small garden area. Gotta keep the deer outta the veggies
Technology !!!! We never had NO GRIPPERS growing up. Always did a wire twist splice :) All the TECHNOLOGY we have and no-one has came up with a PNEUMATIC FENCING NAIL GUN !!!!! Wouldn't that be sweet :)
How far apart are the posts? And how would you handle going over terraces ? I have a fence of roughly 350 yards and there are terraces all along the fence line. Some dip about 2’ right before the post and then drop about 8’ in elevation before the next post. I’ve put it off for years because of the major drop in elevation from where it starts to where it stops. It’s just seems like it’ll be too much of a hassle. Any advice?
So...I've also given this some thought.....wouldnt the part of the post that's in the ground...constantly exposed to moisture be the first to rot? I've seen folks do all kinds of trick but I've never seen a post rot from the top down...usually the end of a fence post is breaking off at the ground.....what are your thoughts or experiences?
LOL I know you didnt suggest it, but you dont wanna tar the bottoms of the post either or you form a collection pot made of tar that will hold water in to the post...
Wranglestar did his mailbox post with a hole bored at an angle right at the dirt line and filled it with oil diesel oil or creasote. They last a lifetime if done right.
In Australia these post are h3 treated which is hazard area 3 which allows it to sit dirt moisture etc, my only concern is over time the posts splitting
The posts will rot at the very top and form these caverns in the top over time, which is why you often see tops of posts cut at angles. However like you're saying, they often break off at the ground. This is frequently because water collects at the base of the post, which is why I mound dirt at the bottom of posts when I install them so as to shed water. I do 2 things when I install a wood post that I want to last a long time. First is add 2 inches of pea gravel at the bottom of the hole. This will allow some drainage inside so the post isn't resting in water. Second, I take roofing tar and coat all 4 sides of the posts + the 2 inches of the post that will be above ground. Do not coat the bottom of the post as moisture needs to be able to leave the post when it gets wet. You'll notice that the utility companies do something similar with power lines. You'll see a black treatment at the base of the posts.
T-Posts that you buy nowadays aren't the ones that your grandpa used....they're cheap steel and simply don't last. However.....when ya build your own fence you can choose whatever materials you like my friend...the wood posts have a better aesthetic
You sure could....but you'll be rebuilding the fence in 10 years...T-posts aren't the quality that they used to be in my opinion...check out my fencing playlist...we cover all sorts of farm fencing! You'll learn so much!
Remember that game you played in college where you drank your beer every time someone said "Hi Bob" on the Bob Newhart show? Well, we have a new game. Every time Josh says "basically" you have to drink your beer. This channel will be an overnight sensation with the college kids and the farm boys.
SO...THE STORY GOES...THE ONLY SHIRT THEY SENT IN MY WIFE'S SIZE WAS THAT ONE...I WASN'T HAPPY...I ACTUALLY HAVE TO BUY THE SHIRTS JUST LIKE EVERYONE ELSE
