Feminine Porcelain Figurine Restoration 

Thank you very much.

You're the master of restoration!

I use Iwata airbrushes. I have several but the one I use the most for jobs like this is: model HP-CH HK. I don't know the tip size. I just use the one that came with it. Pressure setting is between 20-30 psi.

@@marsgitar Thx so much!

The comments section of my newer videos have a list of links to most of the tools and materials I use. Here's a link to one of my newer videos: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SBDq4YClRY8.html

Thank you for the praise. I appreciate it very much. The bonding agent I use depends on the material that needs to be bonded. On this piece, which is fine porcelain, I used a product called HXTL, a 2-part water clear epoxy formulated for repairing glass. Since good porcelain is almost the same as glass it works very well. When I need to repaint an area, on porcelain, I first create a base for the paint to adhere to with Sylmasta's Cold Glaze System (a 2-part catalyst-cured acrylic resin), sanded so the paint can grip it. Then I use Goldens brand acrylic paints to redecorate, usually with an airbrush. Then that is covered with a minimum of 3 heavy coats of the Cold Glaze. When the glaze is cured (over night) it is sanded and buffed with Micro Mesh sanding systems, with grits starting at 2500 and going through six finer grits up to 12000. That will give you the glass-like finish of a real glaze. By the way, none of the products mentioned above can be found in your local hardware store. They (aside from the paint) have to be ordered on line. Unfortunately, ALL the bonding agents and ALL the clear coatings one can purchase at the local hardware or art store WILL discolor with age. The bottom line is: this is not something I would recommend an amateur to try for a repair at home.

Thank you for the compliment! Color matching comes from many years of practice and a lot of patience.

Thanks Kelleen. I use many different kinds of masking and masking materials. On this repair I'm using a latex based masking medium. The brand doesn't matter. It's sold in art supply stores. Mostly this masking medium is used by water color artist. It is painted on, then air-dried, and when done it is rubbed off with the fingers.

Thank you very much, Juan.

Yes, I do come across this situation fairly often. Generally, what I use to sculpt a missing piece depends on how large that piece is and what type of ceramic the thing is made of. For high-fired ceramics (porcelain) I use A+B brand epoxy putty: which I build up more than I need and sculpt down to the final shape. If possible I might take a mold from another, unbroken, part of the piece I'm working on. For softer, low-fired ceramics (terracotta), I might use Milliput epoxy putty. Sometimes it's a process of building-up the missing piece around a wire armature. Sometimes I use a mold to make the missing piece.

@@marsgitar Thank you for replying back. Can't wait for the next video.

I've listed a lot of my tools and materials in the description. The paints are listed there: Golden brand acrylic paints. So, yes, you can use your acrylic paints in an airbrush if you thin it to the proper proportion to do so.

Yes, the color match was perfect but the lights are close to the figure at the top of the inside of the spray booth and are probably having an effect on the camera's color perception at certain angles.

The clear "glue" is Hxtal epoxy, which I use to bond porcelain. The white stuff (putty) is Milliput epoxy putty. I use it as a fill but it's also a bonding agent.

I did not make the one in this video. That is a dental spatula. You can buy them on line. I got mine from another restorer friend. This spatula is now two different spatulas. The pointy end broke off, so I made a new handle for it from a 1/4 inch steel rod. I cut a slot into the end of the rod, then put the broken-off blade into it. Then I drilled a couple of holes through the rod and blade, used to rivet the blade into place. The other end of the original broken spatula included the whole rest of the tool, so I just made a wooden handle for it.

Porcelain is extremely hard. You need to use a diamond tool to grind it down. There are Dremel diamond bits that'll do the trick. That's what I use. Porcelain will dull any metal tools you try to use on it.

thanks, I would have guessed it was fragile

Corrie: I would suggest you run this question by a doll collector forum for an expert answer for your specific doll.

@@marsgitar Hi. Thank you for helping me. I will do so. Have a good day