I was curious what is the reason to delete your frame before you burn? I know in light burn there's an option to have no input on each layer. Just wondering if there was legitimate reason remove it completely. Awesome video by the way 🙂. Thank you.
Just habitual I suppose. I'm a triple checker lol. Could easily use a lightburn tool layer and frame without removing anything and it would work just fine.
@@LaserEverything sometimes I will forget to turn off the input and burn in the frame. ☺️ Methodical steps are important. Lol. Thank you for the videos they have really help me understand things. As a result of watching them I purchased a 60w MOPA FIBER laser. I haven't opened it up yet. I want to make a great environment for it before I do. Currently I am running a 60w 1630 Boss Laser. I love it. But now I want to get into engraving metals, reliefs, and metal stamps for manufacturing. I hope the fiber can do the job. I was wondering I would like to have a cage around the fiber like the boss has with darkened plexiglass. It helps with fume control as well. You wouldn't happen to know where to find something like that?
Not yet, we're still waiting on the retail release of Lightburn, should be in the next 90 days or so. When it's released you won't have to do any hardware swapping.
For ring ID engraving, instead of tilting the rotary, wouldn't it be better to move it so you are using an angled beam at the side of the work area (instead of straight down and center)? That way it's in focus for the entire width of the ring.
The further you move out from the center of an F-Theta lens the further out of focus two points on the same vertical plane are. There's no harm in doing it that way but if there is a benefit it's negligable. Unless you're using the smallest of lenses like a 70mm I don't think it's going to make much of a difference. Even the 110 typically has the depth of field to cover the very narrow focus differential between the top and bottom of the ring surface.
Thanks so much for this in depth video! Really looking forward to trying it out once I get back to my lasers. Quick question: will this work for deep engrave on ring? Like can I removed a lot of material without there being ugly lines in the bottum? Running 120w JPT
Hello, I'm your subscriber. Please understand that I am not good at English because I am a foreigner. If you imprint the text a little bit deep on stainless steel, the imprinted part is very rough. Is there a good way to do this?
@@LaserEverything Thank you very much for your answer. If you have time, I think it would be a great help for beginners like me if you could make a video that doesn't make the imprinted part rough. I'll watch your videos more often
Great vid! Hoping you can answer this question: Will this laser work for tungsten carbide rings? Jewelry business owner wanting to offer engraving & 99% of our rings are tungsten. If not what machine similar to this one would you recommend for starters? Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Yeah absolutely. We actually used an EM-Smart for this video and it's a nice little machine. I don't usually recommend the MAX sources for beginners because they could be less than reliable but MAX has been doing better lately. Here's our review on the unit if it's something you want to look at: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-er8vi_uCcgY.html
Thanks so much for your response! Will watch that video. So you think the em smart is strong enough for tungsten? Tried regular diode on tungsten ring and it did nothing 😅 read that it has to be fiber or co2, so looking for an inexpensive fiber laser with rotary
Hi Alex. We are from India. It was nice watching your video and learning so much about Laser marking. We are struggling to find out how to draw a 360 degree line around the outer dia of a ring using Rotary. You taught the same using Lightburn but we want to know using Ezcad. If you can help. Thanks.
For copper something like the 50w JPT linked in the description is really what you want. Silver and gold are both pretty easy to mark with just about any fiber.
We can't really get into it in the RU-vid comments as it's not the best place for more intensive support threads but we do have a few options where you can get help. Either check out Discord Server or Facebook group - links in the description - or you can check out our new forum over at www.lasereverything.net/forum and I'm sure we can get you pointed in the right direction.
good video this just helped me setup my first ring engraving although im wondering if you have a video on how to work out the total length you can engrave before over lapping, probably wouldnt be hard but would be handy for newbies if there was an easy way to know how long the text/image can be or maybe with a video about making an ongoing pattern say a flame or tribal pattern how to join it and size it without having overlaps if that makes sense but thanks heaps this has been helpful although i left all the settings alone in the parameter folder for pulses etc as my switches arent visible outside of the box to work it out and it worked, now to try something bigger and try to get a cleaner black as your settings just left a ghost image no colour if that makes sense
Very good video. But i have an issue when i engrave the phrases inside the rings the engraving goes on a straight line and do not follow the curve of the ring. It looks like a diagonal engraving.
@@LaserEverything Thanks, we are working with stainless steel rings and engraving detailed black icons. What would be your best recommendation other than the EM-Smart?
Two inquiries: When you export the Illustrator file do you do it in version 3 or which one do you use. And the second is when I am engraving and the ring is rotating there are moments where it loses focus and does not engravef correctly. How could I solve it? At the moment I'm using rotarytextmark and engraving the vectors in parts. Excellent video!!!
I use the latest copy of AI from the Adobe Creative Cloud Suite and we save our Illustrator projects as AI Version 8 If it's randomly going out of focus while rotating it's probably because the ring isn't a perfect circle. I would get a larger lens. The larger the lens the deeper your depth of field will be which means a greater depth will be in focus which should help with that kind of problem. The lens doesn't need to be massive, one step up in lens size should solve the issue, for example if you're on a 110 try a 150
Hey Arman, I'm not aware of a conversion or kit for doing ring holding on a standard chuck rotary that has normal jaws. You might be able to drill / tap holes and place pins in to get the same affect, but it might be far easier and less destructive to have a ring rotary for that task and other small jewelry and objects that are just really hard with normal jaws. We have one linked on the buying guide in the description :)
why did we need to take the inner, outer diameter and height of the ring?? where did we use them in ezcad..i think i missed a part..someone help please
Thank you for your very helpful video. I have a problem. The rotary marking of the photograph cannot be done at the position specified by EZCAD. I am using EZCAD (2.14.11). I would like to mark a photo When trying to do rotary marking with splitmark2, Cannot mark at the specified position. Actually, it is always marked at the center position (X = 0, Y = 0). I tried the photos with BMP, JPG, and PNG, but all the results were the same. I was able to mark at the specified position by marking on a flat surface without using a rotary. By the way, in the vector, it is possible to mark at the specified position on both the rotary and the plane of splitmark2. I'm sorry for my poor English. I would be grateful if you could tell me if you knew the solution.
Ezcad does not support raster images in rotary mode, but lightburn will when it is released June 30th so keep an eye out for that. We have some episodes about it on the channel.
Thanks for all the wonderful information. I have a question: if I wanted to engrave only part of a very curved bracelet (not closed with a ring), what parameters should I use? How do I indicate the engraving area with Ezcad?
The engrave area is indicated from the center, out. So if you align the bracelet, so that you are starting from the bottom and need to rotate up toward the center, you would do the same in software. The base of the design would be Aligned just above center axis, and it would move up to complete the design marking. Need to be sure you know which way the rotation will be so you can plan your initial alignment physically, and which side of the design needs to be up against the center axis in order to match the physical bracelet.
Hi , Thank you for a vidéo. I have a laser mr carve M1 Pro l wanted to engrave jewelry the text in black but I always have it in white on the stainless steel jewelry can you help me please ? Thank you
Providing support via RU-vid comments is super difficult for more complicated issues but I would say definitely join either the Discord server or Facebook group and you'll get help from me or others super fast. There's links to both in the description! Be sure to include screenshots if you can so we can see what's going on.
Not ring specific but might help you get most of the way there, things like positioning, centering are all the same regardless of program. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iW21yY9czBQ.html
Unfortunately this one is the one that came with the EM-Smart but there are some good ones made by a company called Mactron, we have links to their shop down in the description I'd check those out as I've had good luck with them.
Does the software from ezcad or lightburn work on any laser engraver? I am currently looking at the Mr.Carve from daja because they provide the rotary tool with it. Or which laser engraver with rotary tool would you recommend for engraving solid silver rings?
Hi. Love the content, I’ve got a question, if I have the option to get a mopa laser would I be better of or should I stick with a standard laser? What are your thoughts on that.
Unless you have a specific use case for MOPA or need a laser higher than 50w then I would say there's nothing wrong with the standard machines. They'll work great for 99% of people.
They call it stainless steel on the amazon listing but it's clearly some kind of mixed alloy lol, not entriely sure to be honest. Maybe some kind of plated zinc.
If you will be doing mostly basic surface marking, either flat or on rotary, you could totally start with a 20 or 30w unit. If you're doing very hard material or may need to do more depth on those harder to mark materials, moving up to a 50w might be helpful or to help speed things up. We have model recommendations on our buyers guide if you'd like to check those out. Some may be affiliate links if you'd like to support the channel, projects, and our team, or you can just look and skip the links if you're not into that, no worries :)
I'm not sure, we'd need more info and maybe screenshots/pictures. It would be best to join one of our communities (linked in our descriptions) and make a post in the threads so the support community can have a look and offer some feedback and troubleshoot.
This video was done on the EM-Smart Basic 2R which I believe comes with a 110 standard but they're proprietary lenses and much smaller than typical so the beam may have different properties here than on your average 110. That said I think I just used my stock 30w settings (it's a 25w laser) from other machines I own and they worked fine.
@@LaserEverything Wow thanks great Amazing detail for 110trying to determine Lens.....I decided to spend more money and by more than one. 😆 I've been enjoying the podcast thanks.
@@LaserEverything So I got a question for you. I'm assuming a smaller lens does the following smaller work space but more detail. Faster metal removal within that area. But does that added removal speed heat up the part more or less? One more thing....Do you change the color of stainless through this type of heating? I saw they had a different laser for coloring.
