In this video I show you how I deal with seams using different modelling products. then we move onto removing the different products to see the varying results.
Brilliant tutorial, just what I need to get me back into the hobby. The chap who runs my go to model shop has started commenting "I'll see you again in a few days". The shopping list for fillers, solvents and abrasives just keeps growing.
Hello, just watched video of using different putties and different filling applications. I have to say this hands down the very best, most detail video ive ever watched for doing and using these variouse techniques and material. Well done and thank so much.
Great video and content. Always good to refresh the basics. I really hope you do a few more. After watching your videos,I think I spend the next 3 hrs at the bench. Cheers Dave
Very useful even for us "Old Hands". I have been using Tamiya lacquer thinner as a tool and brush cleaner of late. Works a treat and is especially good for cleaning Tamiya putty of my tools. Cheers!
Fantastic video. Thank you for sharing. I’m starting to use putty, so very timely. I like the way the Mr Surfacer works better than the putty in these samples. Cheers.
Another great contribution to your channel Nigel, great stuff and thanks for sharing your knowledge. The Tamiya extra thin as cleaner was new for me, will try that out next time :D Agree 100% about the Tamiya putty, and to make it even better; I thin it with Tamiya lacquer thinner before applying. Makes it smother to work with and depending on what you work with, its easy to adjust how much thinner you need.
I’ve just got hold of some of the Mig Black glue after seeing Jamie Haggo recommend it and use it on a recent build . I’m also looking forward to trying the Mig Ammo ‘putty surfacer’ range which they have just released. This is a great tutorial Nigel, filling seams is often my nemesis so it’s great to refresh techniques.
Over the years l’ve tried a number of hobby putties, the problem l find is that the small tubes of putty start going hard after a short time, so l rarely get to use more than half of the putty, sometimes a lot less. Ended up trying auto putty, made for small scratches. The tube is a lot larger than hobby putties and stays soft for years. It’s also cheaper and sands like a dream and does not shrink.
Nigel, that was really outstanding, what a great video. I wish we had these when we were growing up, there was so much we had to learn just by trial and error. My Uncle taught me lots of woodwork and metalwork but he wasn't so much into the plastic modelling side of things. The only trouble I find is the Mr Surfacer just kills me with the fumes. I never used to worry about that sort of thing but after a good 40 years making plastic models since I was 7, it begins to weigh on the mind. I've tried the Vallejo plastic putty and getting some reasonable results if I persevere, but sometimes it just fails to do what you want. I endeavour to use it where I can though. Noted down a lot of good tips and will follow up some of the products you mention. Cheers again
Dear Nigel. Thank you for all the info and tips given to us! Watched the B52 video's and learned a lot, even being back in the hobby for 8 years! Als watched MENG 1/35 9K37M1 video's where I learned a lot! Great that you're doing this serie, as there is so much information in your video's, but it takes a lot of time per video to get that sweet 5min information. Not that that is a negative thing! The only shame is that a lot of your (older) video's aren't in a playlist. This would watching your series on a model so much easier and pleasent
@@NigelsModellingBench yes I believe, I use Bob Smith stuff and it works well, plus it's much much cheaper, as far as I know. That is my biggest problem with this hobby, different brands make the same stuff, but certain brands charges 2 or 3 times more for the same stuff.
Howdy mate. I do the same thing as you do with Mr Surfacer but with the Tamiya grey primer in the bottle. Just like the Mr Surfacer it sinks back quite a bit so take a few applications...but for me here in SA, it's half the price of Mr Surfacer. The Valejo putty I use for wing and tail fillets and works a charm, it doesn't seem to like being sanded though. Think I'm gonna try the MIG black super glue too😉...any other tips n tricks videos would be GREATLY APPRECIATED mate😉👌👏👏👏👏👏
Just to let you know, that Premium hobbies are sold out of both Black CA's atm (the Nigel effect) - don't worry just sign up to be notified when it's back in.
Some people are saying that Tamiya airbrush cleaner is basically extra thin and can be used in the same way. It would be a much cheaper way of buying glue. Any thoughts?
Hi Nigel. I’m new to the hobby but I’m loving it. Done some nice models from Tamiya tanks to Airfix planes, even a lovely Battlestar Galactic cyclon centurion. But Ive got a question. Could you use decorators caulk as a filler? It drys hard, can be sanded and primed than painted.
Hi I haven't done a model since 1982 so every thing has changed. I what to start on the Italeri Short Stiring but the kit looks to have way to deep lines on the Wings and Fuselage. .which should primer should I use to fill in of Mr. Surfacer? Then after that will do the Airfix 1/48th Avro Anson. My Father used to fly in the Anson in The RCAF during WW11. I have never used filler on models back then.. I Also got a Air brush first time for that also.. Found you on You Tube buiding the Massive 1/32 Lancaster. Good luck on that project. My uncle flew the Lancaster in the RCAF over Germany in 1943 and made it back to Canada after the end of the war..
Hi nigel, great compare of different fillers and techniques. Do you have any tips how to avoid those airbubbles in mr surfacer after It's stirred in jar to mix? Sometimes I have lot of them and in some places those pinholes after sanding are hard to refill again (ie air bubble/pinhole stay hollow under new layer of mrsurfacer again).
Hello Nigel. Have you ever tried thinning down Mr. White Putty prior to application? I’ve had very pleasing results using it slightly thinned rather than neat from the tube.👍😎
@@NigelsModellingBench hes Really Good, the post apocalyptic thing at the end is straight up one of the most original and well executed bits of modelling ive seen in a long while. its glossy mind
I no it's an old video so I may not get an answer. But if I use the mig super glue black and the underside of the aircraft is a light colour how do I over come the fact it leaves a black line in the seam or am I missing something out.
@@NigelsModellingBench OK so it will cover over even if it's white paint .I no it sounds a still question but just don't want to get it and it won't cover over that's all
Very good video thank you, Would the room temperature have any effect on the products? I try to leave my windows closed so as the temperature in my room stays constant especially during these cold days & nights, however as it is recommended to use glue in a well ventilated area I can not win unless I exit the room for a couple of hours whilst the vapours clear.However since you mention there is so much shrinkage is this natural or affected by the temperature? Once again thanks I look forward to watching more of your videos.
I dont think cold affects the qualities of the products, but hot days really affect the curing time and often times the finish of paint suffers as it dries so fast.
I have never seen storage temps on products.. maybe I should look harder. I tend to keep things as cool as possible, but above "cold", like at room temperature.
@@NigelsModellingBench On the Mig Ammo product web page for the Black cya glue you used it reads ( store in a cool place 16%c(60%f) For the longest shelf life.