The limit for solar panel charging for the F3800 is the combined 2 port total of 2400W at 32-60V, which pretty much rules out most rooftop solar panel setups. By comparison the Ecoflow delta pro ultra allows 2 port combined total of 30-400V and 5600W.
I live in SoCal, by the ocean, where the temps are rarely below 45 or above 85, so my power needs in outages are really just for fridges, router for internet, tvs, lights and hot water. Can heat the house with a wood burning fireplace, in a pinch, and I use my A/C about once every 2-3 years. I grill in the back yard most evenings, so the electric stove is nothing in the scheme of things. So, as my needs are minimal: I have a single old Honda i2300 gas gennie; worked in the tv field, so everybody used these on their production trucks.
I have a couple of UPS units, for critical loads, a couple 1/2 KWH solar units for low current loads, and a 6KW diesel generator with a 30 gallon tank for a 60 hour runtime at 4KW. That is for recharging during extended outages. Anytime the primary source of power is off, it is very important to conserve power. Instead of running the water heater, a 1200 watt kettle is used, for hot water on demand, etc. I did buy an engine controller for the generator to make it fully automatic if needed. A 3KW charger inverter is soon to be added to make the diesel into a hybrid that will charge batteries automatically in the event the solar does not keep up. The hybrid should extend diesel by shutting it down under light load conditions.
i got mine last week, extra battery arrives tomorrow. i live in Florida and have a propane/gas generator but its such a hastlde to use. this is by my garage power panel charged and ready to go.
You are a forward thinking person, no question and thats a great talent to have. When I was first starting out with my first home I was always thinking ahead with projects I would start with and try to take advantage of trench digging that would occur by adding conduit etc. in the event something else might benefit when an idea comes up or the funds for a future project were present. We would run conduit for phones, power, internet, gas, water and so forth knowing that there will be a project ahead needing connectivity some day. The best ever money spent ahead and time saved by having to avoid another trench or having to put off a concrete job or other because all was done previously. Typically, I would put in two of everything, wall receptacles, quad vs. duplex, pre-wire for future needs etc. I can't tell you how much money was saved in the long run...plus tons of labor avoided by thinking ahead and applying them. Some may believe that is over doing it however, no one really is ticked off when they buy a home built by some builder who only put in the bare basics and made any future improvements extremely expensive to do. For this battery to work best, its fairly obvious a solar panel array needs to be installed. Then, you could avoid the grid most of the time however, the cost to do this is likely more than just using the grid 100% and having a good sized generator on site in the event of a rare power outage that might last a few days. One day, we will see this technology priced much lower and it will be a great option, especially if politics keeps raising the price of electricity, natural gas, propane, diesel and other fuels.
Sounds like we're 1,000% on the same page!!! I have such a hard time burying a trench without taking full advantage of all the possible things we might need someday. When I ran a new water line from my wellhouse I also ran a drain line, speaker cable, ethernet, an extra water line, and a 50a power cable! Adding a solar array would be sweet eventually. Would need to trench it in from the South side of my grove so wouldn't be super easy. Thanks for sharing!
I’ve got a 7500 el cheapo Westinghouse that I converted to use propane with a motor snorkel kit. Got a pool with buried 500# propane tank that will run me 24/7 for about 10 days. Runs everything but central air. Does well pump, 2 large subzeros, wine refrigerator, heat etc. basically the whole house. When we don’t have power we don’t do laundry nor do we use the oven. Probably could but why stress the genset. It’s been flawless.
Sounds like the perfect setup honestly! Underground propane tanks aren't very common where we live but honestly it sounds kind of nice to have them out of sight. I wonder if I could put one in.
@@BenjaminSahlstrom very common around here. Not buried deeply, the top portion (2x2 circle with a lid that has a gauge and fill) is above grade like a well casing but larger. The connection to my house and pool are buried. Already had a regulator to my house for our stove, so I just unscrewed the black pipe in my basement, installed a tee and ran the new pipe back outside to a female quick connect fitting. The male end of the fitting is on the end of a 12 foot run of 3/4 flexible rubber line I got from a gas/propane fitting company. The other end goes into the generator regulator. Running the generator on propane theoretically you lose some wattage but the trade-off is well worth it.
So I live Rural and we get our share of blackouts. One thing that many people feeding their entire house will do is disconnect ONE element from the electric water heater. Most big portable gennies only peak around 7K5 so by disconnecting one element they still have some hot water, slower to heat up but they don't max out their emergency supply... And dry clothes on a line, it's really dry here in Utah so even in the winter you can dry clothes. I don't have that much backup power and am happy if I can keep the freezers going and I can always heat water on the wood stove in the winter. In the winter I could put food in the shed for a long term problem.
Good thoughts! Interestingly, most (if not all) electric water heaters never run both elements at once, actually. Disconnecting one element is likely unnecessary.
@@BenjaminSahlstrom I know it would kill the neighbors beefy 7k5 and I know for certain mine only has a single adjustable thermostat up top but not sure if it has additional safety "snap disc" style switches plus I've never attempted to run it off a generator. I will however throw a meter on though because as my generation always said, "Inquiring minds like mine want to know".. hehehe lol 😅
Texas gulf coast area, 13kw gas/propane generator on automatic transfer switch, 500gal propane tank that also is used for backup heat on a central air heat pump system, water heater and stove. The generator has a 5 gal tank that I will put fuel in if we have a power outage as burning off the limited propane would be bad and well gas is easier to refill. I have 8x 5 gal gas cans that I try to cycle through so the gas isn't more than a year old but I do mix in some sta-bil to prevent jellification. I will use the gas in my lawn tractor and if any is left at the one year mark I will use it in my truck and refill as needed. I would like to get a smaller backup battery system for an added buffer but stuff like this anker solix are just way too expensive, $2600 buys a gas generator and a decades worth of gas for backup use. Our area got hit hard by Hurricane Harvey, we were without utility power for almost 3 weeks and the flooding made getting around quite hard for the first week. That said, we were able to keep the house powered and food cold the whole time and only burned through about 6x of the tanks of fuel as that generator self throttles based on load and can go a solid 16hr just running the fridge and a few lights on 5gal of fuel.
As always a great video, and fun to watch! Here in southern Louisiana where Hurricanes as well as occasional power outages are the main concern. When a Hurricane rolls in you've basically got full cloud cover for days so solar recharging isn't really an option. And the last major storm Hurricane Ida had power out for 3 weeks in some local areas around us. So I keep my Champion 7000w / 9000w peak generator ready to go with an Interlock Kit just like your setup. For Ida I had 4 x 5 gal gas cans and fuel was sparse for a while. So I want to upgrade my setup with a Tri Fuel Kit (already have but not installed) to then use Natural Gas which is about 55ft away on that side of the house. I plan to put a quick connect tap right at my meter and have a portable hose that can run 60ft to the Generator location inside our back fence. But Natural Gas (& Propane) generates less power than Gasoline so it's iffy if that will run our Central HVAC which has a Soft Start Kit that brings it cold crank amperage down to 25-35 amps. That's where I'd like to (eventually) incorporate a Battery system similar to this, which can easily be re-charged from Natural Gas -- exactly as you were describing -- and have been researching options for quite some time now. But it's hard for me to justify $2500 when my entire Generator + Interlock+ Soft Start setup was only $1600. One thing I noticed you didn't cover is the fact that not all Generators output clean power and can affect electronics -- maybe event he charging feature of the Solix. I was lucky enough to snag the Campion model 100155 that Costco was selling circa 2015 which is one of the very few non-inverter generators that has less than 5% THD; all generators should provide their THD (Total Harmonic Distortion) rating.
Hey Ben, your test run of your 4ton Heat Pump is only real-world stress test I've been able to find on any of the Solix F3800 videos... but what would really be the most helpful for those of us considering it vs a DIY build would be to know the actual Inrush Amps the 4ton is pulling when it starts from the Solix.... Can you measure your actual inrush and share that info?
I had a Cummins 20kw natural gas/propane generator installed with an automatic transfer switch. Installed a whole house natural gas water heater with an electric backup unit but the generator can power the entire house. Stove is gas as well. Thinking about burying a 1000 gallon propane tank. Backup 4500w Wacker gas generator. Live on the Gulf coast.
But this unit has a 60 volt input limit for solar which means to get a decent amount of solar you will have to put many panels into parallel and use heavy cables for the run to the Solix to avoid significant power losses. A very bad design choice on their part.
I have a 22kW Generac standby on propane. It powers everything except my irrigation pump. Water heater and range use propane as well. Since I’m in Florida, I mainly want AC on backup. Have UPS backups on all TVs, computers and cable modem. Power outages are barely noticeable.
As an electrician you probably already know this, but when you connected your Y cord to the gas generator to get (2) 120 volt circuits, you took away the ability for the existing house wiring to share neutrals. Any multiwire branch circuit in the house wiring now adds current to the shared neutral since the neutral currents are in the same phase. This can overload the neutral, melt the insulation but not trip any breaker! OOops. I see the same comment below from another person looking out for your best interests.
I would say killing the 240v output when recharging from 120v AC is an issue. If you lose power at your house and say have a gas generator to charge it back up, you have to kill the power to the house while it recharges. Now I know you wouldn't have that issue with solar, but you never know the weather in a blackout. Maybe the smarthome panel they are going to sell will help with that, but it rains on the 240 volt parade that this unit is really touting. The 60v limit on solar charging is a bothersome too. It is nice, but has some limitations. Capacity test only shows 72% usable capacity. Maybe it can be improved with firmware updates, but that is rough when looking at the other power station offerings.
I have a Duromax 10k gas only generator that works well for me. I live in the city so power outages are normally very short. When Deracho came across iowa, it was a blessing to have. I also have a boat that holds 50 gallons of gas that I can use if necessary to keep it running.
@BenjaminSahlstrom I do only use ethanol free in all my small engines, it's what I was taught growing up, and i believe it does make a difference. Casey's and Kwik Star both carry it here.
My well requires electricity for it to be useful and convenient, although the well is an artesian well and will flow on its own without a pump you really need the pump to force the water to the far reaches of the house. I guess if you really had to you can fulfill your water needs by filling a 5 gallon pail and lugging it into the house. My well pump needs is super minimal, a 1/2 HP pump is all I need, essentially it's just a booster pump. Looks like the Anker SOLIX unit would be a perfect fit for me. Thanks for the video.
I have a 10KW natural gas generator and a number of years ago after an ice storm I went for 3 days with no problem and was able to run as normal. My generator was about $3,000 over 10 years ago. Recently power was off for 24 hours and the cost of natural gas to run my house including 2.5 ton central air unit was about $10 per day at current rates.
Good video, the Anker F3800 system is decent. I have two F3800's and 6 BP3800 expansion batteries, so I am speaking from experience. Unfortunately I would not buy again because but they essentially have no customer service. And when they do firmware upgrades, they don't know the changes in specs. Each call or chat takes hours and each response it automatic and says they will reply in 2 days... even for the most basic questions. So unless you're a solar expert, don't count on ANKER for any help unless you have a ton of patience.
i run an eco flow delta 2 with custom 600wh lfp for extra time for now !!! can run my small aircon tested for an hour and a half (in hard climate days) !! talking about 85% cause never 0/100 em!!! i think it can be used in more wise ways like thermal blankets and tiny heater for whole night situations (if no solar) but it was a fast expensive buy .. i d probably go for DIY .. you can have 3000wh or more if diy on delta 2 badget. i bought it 1200 when cost was at its worst
Even if there's no sun, when you charge these things like the Ecoflow units, and decide to use the home line to charge, it does it at a speed and other parameters thats very efficient. I say efficient enough to charge the unit up, and run your home til its empty then recharge it, and you will actually save money. If you do it enough, these generators will actually pay for themselves in a year or less ( depending how much you paid for it). Thats the awesome results from these LifePo4 Batteries that have close to 4,000 charge cycles from 0-100%, thats like 8 years of use before it reaches 80% on the batteries.
What to do in the event of a power outage? In Germany, a local power outage occurs every 50 years. We have flashlights and a radio with batteries for this. The electricity price is not 16 US cents but 28 Euro cents. 240 volts is common here.
Every 50 years??? That's seriously impressive. I think our grid is a bit harder to maintain due to the massive scale and distances between everything. Personally, we've only had about 3 or 4 outages, and they all lasted less than a day. Most of the time, it's something like a farmer hitting a pole, failed or burnt out transformer, ice on the lines, high wind, tree branches, etc...
I currently have a dual fuel champion 9000 watt generator for back up. I live on an island that loses power in the winter often. I’ll hopefully be switching to a Diesel 25KW generator soon. It will have a remote start (not automatic).
You should be using the 240 Volt AC 50 Amp output socket on your solar genny and not the lower 25-30 Amp 240 Volt AC output. For home backup the 50 Amp service will be more efficient running your higher amperage draining and startup spiking AC devices, such as your clothes dryer and your well pump and your water heater. I would get two Anker/Solex 600 Watt units and parallel connect them together for 12,000 Watt duty. Each unit can take in 2,400 Watts of Solar, so x 2 solar genny's will give you 4,800 Watts of solar input, which is enough to charge up your solar generators during the day while using them at the same time. You then can drain all Night and Charge all Day. I would have 1 external battery connected to each solar genny to offset the running time disparity.
@@slip0n0fall Hmmmmmmmnnn ? If it doesn't provide you with the alternative 50 Amp connection, then what convenience does it provide ? Is it just there for show to fool people into purchasing the product ? The smaller connection needs to provide you with 30 Amps not 25 ! 25 Amps is not the nominal standard of the smaller 240 Volt AC output. Running a home backup on less than 30 Amps is not wise. What happens to this 50 Amp output socket when you run two F3800's together connected in parallel ? Does this larger 240 Volt AC socket then provide 50 Amps of 240 Volt AC current output ? It doesn't make any sense ? Something doesn't add up here ? P.S. Yeah, I watched the video. Did YOU watch the video ?
@@markjob6354 it's so folks can (conveniently, without adaptors) plug their RV. The output is current limited internally, so the Anker will shutdown if overloaded. Don't get me wrong I like Anker, but this is a pass, not being able to use it essentially as a "power wall" is a deal breaker.
@@slip0n0fall I think Anker is playing games with the consumer here. For me, you don't advertise to potential customers any kind of home backup solution which does not meet minimum 240 Volt AC Specifications under the UL/Canadian Electrical Standards. Putting interfaces on solar generators which fail to meet the minimum standards can cause serious damage to both the solar genny itself and devices plugged into it which are getting low amperage operation ! This is like plugging your AC devices into an electrical Brown Out Machine !!! It's a big No ! No ! P.S. The EcoFlow Delta Pro outputs 240 Volts at the full 30 Amp rating for its 240 Volt AC 60 Hz split-phase operation - Not 25 Amps ! i.e. EcoFlow has chosen to market a solution which doesn't cheat on the established 240 Volts AC standards.
I have a 240v 30 amp circuit powered by a dual fuel 5k generator. I only plan on operations essential circuits for lights, refrig, freezer, furnace. No intent to run AC. I have an interlock system in my panel.
I am pretty sure it will charge below 0C . I was charging my ecoflow from generator while camping. It was -20C outside so inside the car with window open just enough to pass the extension was probably -10 to -15C and it was charging fine.
I'm guessing it may be possible for it to charge, however it may damage the batteries. It's actually good if the unit prevents you from charging when it is too cold.
These power stations are all great for what they are within their capacity and limitations. The technology, I think, is still in it’s infancy so I’m expecting even greater systems being introduced in the near future. With that said, the concept on all these power stations is to, at the very least, run all your electric appliances for a time. That’s the crux of the current problem … “for a time”. The larger units will run your appliances longer than the smaller units. No matter which unit anyone employs, each user will experience different run times because the “mix” of what appliances they use will be different. Once one of these units are put into service, the judicious use for what Capability you have will determine your run time. In any case, you only have so many watt hours … some of us will use that up faster or slower than others.
This is the largest, and most capable power system on the market, that can can still be realistically considered to be "portable". There are other options that are bigger and more capable (and much more expensive) but they cross that threshold to where they really aren't portable anymore. This one is just the right size for powering more or less your whole home during a power outage, or your small, off-grid cabin. I think they'll sell a lot of them.
You should mention that the crazy Cord 2x 120v to 30a 240v L14-30R Adapter is also unsafe with 110 loads from different phases that share a neutral. Example if two 110v lines were wired with a 14/3 or 12/3 (one 110v on the black, one 110v on the red, sharing a neutral). While the load on the neutral would cancel itself thanks to the opposite phases in a normal use case, it would not with the same phase from the generator powering both lines. So you could potentially exceed the neutral wire amperage and create a dangerous situation.
If you mentioned it, i didn’t hear it, so could you mention the recharge time from 1% to 80% and recharge time from 1%to 100%. Also, ifn i did my math right, if you had the full system, you would have 38.5 hours of runtime (optimally)
November December January February is the most cloudy day in Wisconsin. And it collapsed two to three weeks at each time And aint even dark enough. So where the solar panels don't even make power for those periods of time. Sometimes you can make power sometimes you can't. At least that's what my experience have been for the last forty eight years of my life. Of course this year in a couple of years has been exceptional for Sunlight Yeah, we did have a couple weeks of really dark weather and stuff like that and November December. But overall , we're pretty much have more sunlight than anything else or cloudy light where we can still make power Or at least some power anyways that seems like more of I have a lot of power instead of just a little bit.
User's Comment: "This solar generator looks amazing! I love how it can power appliances for extended periods and the waterproof feature is a game-changer. Definitely adding it to my camping gear wishlist!"Reply: "I couldn't agree with you more! The Segway Portable PowerStation Cube Series is a fantastic addition to any outdoor enthusiast's gear collection. Its massive capacity and fast recharging make it perfect for extended camping trips, and the waterproof design ensures it can withstand any adventure. Definitely worth adding to your wishlist!"
Great video and demo. The only aspect that has me worried about this F3800 unit with extra battery is that you only got 5.4KWH in capacity from a system rated 7.6kWh. I small loss makes sense, for the operation of the unit itself, but only 71% isn't very good. Did you run multiple tests with similar results?
Get rid of the transfer switch and install a Generator Interlock ! With the Interlock, you do not need to decide in advance which circuits you want powered during an outage.
Wow, that Solar Generator video was fascinating! It's great to see how Segway has developed such a powerful and versatile power station. With its massive capacity, fast recharging, and waterproof design, it seems like the perfect backup power solution for outdoor adventures and even home use during emergencies. Definitely worth considering for all outdoor enthusiasts and RV lovers out there!
In central North Carolina, we have a 10KVA dual fuel generator connected via a breaker interlock similar to yours. We first used it during a 3 hour outage and it supported everything including the AC.
I have a gas generator and propane water/heat if we go off grid during a storm or something. It's not perfect but it does work. It's a bit like camping in my own house but in style, LOL. I got lots of gas and propane so it is nice to not have all my eggs in one basket, could be better but it could be a lot worse. :)
Honestly gas and propane is where everyone should start. You need that before you can consider more complex/convenient options. It's a great place to build up from.
These cables for additional batteries are really terrible taking up a lot of space - start using 90-degree connectors and the cable will only take up space about the diameter of the cable itself.
You need an insulated shed with heat by you power connection Some areas have net metering and you can feed the grid. I don’t know if the net metering set ups can sense if the grid is down and disconnect but something to consider if you have battery backup and net metering
yEAH these things are cool, especially the Ecoflow Ultra, but in reality you need a gas, diesel, or propane generator for any long term needs...more than a day a two. Get a dual fuel, run it on propane, and you won't have the problem of gas sitting for a long time. Imagine, you buy a predator, Westinghouse, or champion 12500 dual fuel for 1500 max. Done. These power stations are just a shiny object. Good for Van Life, I own two Ecoflows, but they are not serious for home backup.
HUGE MISS on Ankers part not allowing Grid to be connected 100% of time, with pass through to output when grid is up. One of the ONLY reasons the majority of people would considering buying this would be for automatic backup... No one wants to mess around with transfer switches. Wire the output to a dedicated critical loads panel and the bank should allow passthrough. No intervention required.
Can you please expand on your comment…are you saying this unit cannot be set up to automatically switch to battery power when grid power goes out? I’m a newbie to this. Thanks.
@@allenbaxley8412 the way it was described in this video, the outputs (locking, 25A plug) is disabled while the unit is charging/on AC input. So if you connect your household loads to the output, you need to remove solar or AC to power them. From what I gathered, but I welcome a second interpretation. I haven't gone so far as to read the user manual, just basing it off this video
So if the unit is charging from grid AC (with no 240V output but connected to a transfer switch anyways), and then the grid goes out and therefore the AC that was charging the unit goes out, won’t the unit start outputting 240V to the transfer switch with no manual intervention? Or maybe I’m missing a thing or two… Help!
Awesome set up. I rent so I can't tap into the well. I have 2 pecron E2000's and a expandable 3072 watt hour battery with 1600 watts of solar. The pecrons have 1920 wh lifepo4 battery's and can take in 1300 watts of solar each. The expandable battery can take 400 watts of solar. I am picking up 2 smaller pecrons for light duty lights, fans etc.. I have a backup propane/gas champion generator as well in case of clouds. Lost my fridge to many times down here in Fl from storms never again. Lol
Nice video. I got an interlock setup and 30 amp inlet setup on my house. I have a Predator 8750 inverter generator that I can run of gasoline (of course) and charcoal gas using my gasifier. I do want to get a battery bank at some point because it's the most efficient way to capture and utilize the electricity that is created by a generator.
How do you connect two 3800's together? Once this is done can you also add the additional batteries and run everything to power your home when the power is out? Thank you
The only down on anker is the voltage for the solar. Have to go with there solar panels and not high quality ones that ate stationary because of the low voltage of there power stations.
Appears to be about 10.3 watts! That's with nothing connected, AC ports off, and fully charged. That seems reasonable but more than I would have expected.
Awesome video. I keep waiting for the best. I am also paranoid about Lithium batteries. The ONLY one I had explode on me was in a Samsung Galaxy S 7... and that was back in 2016. Hopefully they're more stable now. (They should be stable, they're on lithium.) < bad joke... Only the air conditioner and clothes dryer is 220 so I hope that would handle everything. Hope to get enough funds. Would like to get off the electric grid completely by having solar charge and batteries be enough in dark hours. Also wonder about snow and ice on panels. I can't be climbing on my roof to clean them if we ever get snow again. Right now, I rely on flashlights and candles as back up. Can't afford all this fancy stuff. I would like to at least have backup for Internet and computers but right now, even that is not affordable yet, and the issues I described above are still being thought of too. I also have the idea to always have more than I need, so that I have it if I need it. I like to have it but not need it than need it and not have it. So I'd turn on everything I could all at the same time, and make sure that can all be carried for at least a few days, then add on to double the amount so there is always a reserve or a back up, back up. Like belt and suspenders. But I am eccentric like that. If money is not a concern, I'd probably have a unit in each room of my house. One thing I would make sure is that without grid support the units could at least keep the refrigerators, heat, AC, and essential appliances running, and perhaps even dedicated units just for those appliances, in addition to all that you have otherwise. I am bullish on the idea of having solar panels on my roof or mounted in trees above the tree tops, so that even in the darkest and shortest of days, I can collect enough power to not need to rely on the public grid. Maybe even add a wind turbine or if you're near a flowing water source, some kind of water turbine. Take advantage of any and all ways to get what occurs naturally and use it. Your dogs made their cameo special appearance. They are adorable. I moved back to a part where power failures last for 3 days. Having moved away, I lost power twice, and the longest was for 45 minutes. Moving back, I've lost power Twice for about a few hours, because of a squirrel eating the wires and, well he was grounded and got zapped. Sad. It took a few hours just to get the EC to respond, then to act.
is there one that has the same output potential, but doesn't limit it when on grid? and/or that allows charging from multiple sources (grid, solar, car) at the same time? i am not very good with electrical and there are so many solar generator options it feels hard to figure out what is the "best" for all types of situations... seems the EcoFlow, Bluetti, and this are frontrunners?
Great video review, thank you! Can you help identify best solar panels to use with this unit besides the portable ones due to the limited 60V solar input? On some reviews I’ve seen they using the F3800 unit with 3 panels in parallel that are LG 365W each. 47.7VOC, 9.39Imp total of 28.17 amps potential using two 3 panel strings to connect of the F3800. Any thoughts if these will work?
Live in California and looking for a solution to lower my electric bill, solar panels is not adoption sice the house and backyard is getting shade by a beautiful Oak tree, live in a city with stable and no power outages, our power company charges electricity depending on the TOU with peek cost at .65 cens per kwh and off-peek .34 cents, any ideas on what kind of technology I can invest in the house to lower my power bill,, I already have high efficiency appliances including heat pumps for hvac, hot water, dryer, house insulation is new, recent new windows, attic fan, whole house fan, the house is 3000 sq ft.?
Yes! Two units together can output 12,000 watts. If you're getting two I would definitely go with a 50a inlet. I'm actually making a video about 50a vs 30a today! Not sure when it will he published yet.
So if one unit can only allow 2 x1200 input from solar panels (so 2 x 3x400w), this only allows a maximum inout from solar at 2400w,? How do i configure this in a system to allow double that input ph? eg 12 x 400w panels with an input of 4800w per hour? im asking because I had hoped to set this up in a way to feed both a 1.5hp pool pump and possibly a 50,000 btu electric heater in the summer. So far I only have thew 6x 400w panels and the F3800, I hope to add 2 additional batteries once they release. It seems odd to only allow such a small amount of power from solar per device? Im assuming I can output up to 6000 while still receiving a charge from the solar during the day?
You said, concerning the 2 240v 25 amp ac outlets, that they are limited to 25 amps, does this mean 25 amps per leg? If not, then I don't understand how it can output 6000 watts on 25 amps, even at 30 amps. I was considering purchasing this unit sometime next year.
The question I have is……..if you combine 2 -F3800’s via the hub, does the 240 volt output on the hub now become 50 amps or does it remain capped at 25amps?
One other question……..I have a Champion branded 11,500 watt generator. There is nothing in the manual that states whether it’s pure sine wave or square wave power. Assuming the worst case scenario, will this “unclean” power harm the F3800 if using the Champion to charge the F3800?@@BenjaminSahlstrom
@@Onetindrumgenerators usually give you sine wave but with some wave distortion from rpm instabilities. You only get square wave output from cheap inverters.
Very strange why this device hasn't become mandatory in hospitals. Probably manufacturer failed some tests at medical certification, so they decided to produce only residential version of this power bank.
You may be able to use your high frequency inverter to charge an EV now, but it's just a matter of time before the MOSFETs or IGBTs in your inverter fail and you can kiss your EV's onboard charger goodbye. A much better and safer choice if you want to charge your EV with solar is to use an inverter or power station that uses low frequency, transformer based technology in its design. Low frequency inverters can handle high surge loads for at least 3x their continuous rated capacity and they can do this repeatedly, without sustaining damages to their MOSFET transistors, for minutes, rather than the milliseconds that a high frequency inverter offers. And because low frequency inverters use a transformer, they provide galvanic isolation which protects your EV's charger. That's why the big name brand inverter manufacturers like Schneider Electric, Outback Power, Sigineer Power, Magnum Energy and Victron Energy and others, all use a low frequency topology in their design.
Great informative video. I just need clarification on one subject. With the transfer switch option you selected, the power backup option can’t be bonded, it must have a floating neutral. Is the Anker unit bonded or does it have a floating neutral?
I'm pretty sure it is likely a floating neutral, although I will confirm that in a bit. The cool thing is that the instant I connect the cord from the inlet box to the battery it will automatically be bonded since the neutral and ground are connected in my main panel outside and those conductors are not switched by the power inlet interlocked breaker. Hope that makes sense!
I have my house set up with a generator transfer switch. It’s for a gas generator now I’ve been waiting for a battery like this. I have the 240 volt plug outside for the gas generator. It was the best money I ever spent. I had an electrician do mine. I can run all my circuits and furnace. The only thing I left out was the washer and dryer and oven to save on the cost.
* most of the power stations available in the US or other countries with weak sauce consumer outlets How did a country that encourages gun ownership and driving commercial trucks to the grocery store, end up with such anemic outlets
You're going to smoke your onboard EV charger and void your EVs warranty by charging your EV with the Anker's cheap, high frequency, transformerless inverter. High frequency inverters are not designed to power high inductance loads like refrigerators, microwaves, portable AC units or EV chargers. Wirhout an output transformer, all it takes is for a single MOSFET in this Anker's H-Bridge circuit to short to ground and it can send high amperage, high voltage DC current straight to your appliances and set them on fire. A much better and safer choice is to purchase a hybrid, low frequency, transformer based inverter charger and an LFP battery bank. High frequency transformerless solar generators like the Chinese made Anker are just far too dangerous to use as a whole house energy source.
Only the high frequency solar generators that don't use an iron core, copper wound output transformer that prevents DC current from passing through to the EV's onboard charger. Unfortunately, nearly all solar generators on today's market are high frequency, transformerless devices. @@latymz
Is this also true of like Victron inverters, specifically Multiplus-II for NA market (split phase)? They use high frequency but I think they might use a transformer
Some Victron inverters do use high frequency tech but the majority of their inverter products are low frequency. Victron does use higher quality components in their high frequency inverters, which does increase their life expectancy but they do still provide a significantly lower peak power capacity.@@ericnewton5720
Made in China? Probably…CCP owned. Let us know. This set up might pump a little water, but it is a total joke for anyone wanting serious power. Getting replacement parts is likely non existent. 😂 q