I appreciate that man! Sometimes it feels like all I do is spin my wheels on this project. Every time I get something checked off the list, another issue gets discovered. Thanks for following along!
@@TheMoparGarage I know the feeling for sure. You're the only person making good turbo mopar content and its filling the void for people like me who aren't as experienced wrenching on these. It sucks looking at 10+++ year old forum posts and seeing a bunch of dead image links that could make it easier to dive into these cars - so thank you for the awesome content!
@@derekr3895 heck yeah! It’s wild, this car kind of built this channel up because there’s no other projects like these at all on RU-vid. Kind of surprising. It’s definitely a different experience working on this one, I’ve been so spoiled by all of my V8 RWD Dodge stuff that I have built in the past where parts and information are plentiful. Getting to know Steven Seale has been a huge resource for me. I didn’t know crap about these turbo Chryslers going into this, only that I’ve always wanted one!
I wish I had one of these awesome cars seeing a original rebuild is amazing. I wish I could find a decent one but this is northern Wisconsin lol and rust is our favorite type of bodywork
Thanks brother! I was REALLY fortunate to find one in such good shape, there's not a spot of rust on it. It came from Daytona Florida too which I thought was cool, right down the street from the track it was named after. I'm from Northern New Hampshire originally so I remember rust all too well! 😂
Be careful with aftermarket pistons they are usually junk hyper crack. OE ones are fine. I changed rod bearings and rings + hone in the car. Just gotta wrap the crank keep debris out. And use soapy water to clean the cylinders not brake parts cleaner (Hone instructions).
Thank you for the advice! This 80’s Chrysler community continues to be awesome. I think I mis-spoke in the video, I’m probably just going to do rings as long as the pistons look good. Steven sent me the part number for the rings he recommend using so I just went off that. I bought the most expensive aftermarket main bearings I could find, hopefully they hold up well.
Last April, I bought a: 1985 Daytona Turbo Z --> Its Jet Black Like Yours. The Body on mine is (Subjectively estimated) 90 - 95 % Perfect. The Interior is I'd conservatively Guess - 85 -90 % Mint. I've spent the last Year - (Canadian Weather Permitting) Repairing the Few things this Rare Find needed done to Pass its Roadworthy Mechanical Insurance Inspection. I Still have 4 ... just Four, :-( ONLY four little minor Chores to go until I can FINALLY go cruizin'.. Well, Three actually - Transplanting the 1500 Watt Stereo from my Truck, is a "Want," not a need. I "Have," HAVE - have to - I have to repair the Power Windows, They stall trying to close. I have to Install "Dust caps" on the Rear Wheels. And, There's one other job under the hood I have to complete. I am actually really really surprised at how much trouble I'm having with it. My brother has helped me with the repairs. I took photographs with my cell phone before we dismantled everything to replace the turbocharger which was the main problem with the car but I got it, the turbocharger is in and I replaced the oil feed line with stainless steel feed line that separates with a reusable Nano filter. That was a huge pain in the #$@ let me tell you. But, the one I am having the most problem with believe it or not is replacing, or replugging the vacuum lines, believe it or not? The Bacuum lines are largely the Reason I'm leaving SUCH a LONG LONG Comment/Message. I realize your car is a 1986 Shelby model. But I'm guessing the vacuum lines are, most likely, near enough identical ? I was wondering/hoping ... If you'd be willing to contact me, and maybe send me some images of under the hood of your car and the routing of your vacuum line? In return, I have a copy of the Haynes manual for the 84 through 89 Daytona and laser. I would be willing to scan and email any page or section on anything you may be having difficulty with, I also have (although it is for the 1985 model, the vast majority of the two cars are basically identical between the 84 85 and 86) I also have the three book Chrysler service manual, I mean the mechanics real service manual the Chrysler publication that the dealerships have. Don't ask me where They came from, they was in a box in the car when I bought it. The three book collection of service manual is approximately 5 in thick the Haynes manual as you likely know is maybe 5/8 thick, Haynes is for 84 through 89 the service manual is for 85 which is pretty much the same as 86 and 84 and that is a set of three books 5 in thick. If you'll send me the diagram of your vacuum lines or maybe make a video of it and post it, we can contact each other offline and you can either email or phone me anytime you need instructions out of any of the manuals or the Haynes book. Here's hoping you see my comment, and hoping for a timely response, Xandir in Canada
Agreed, the Air/fuel system on these cars is terrible to work on. It's actually more time effective to remove the whole head, which is wild. The vacuum lines are a very common issue on the boost management on these cars. The vacuum lines are the same for both of our cars. I have a video of re-doing mine here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ok4C38QMhWU.html Hopefully this helps, thanks for watching!
The Gen II and Daytona videos are great. Short intros are better. Great color on the Gen II. I had an ‘86 Chrysler Laser in high school. The back seat folded down to make a great makeshift bed. I hated working on that car. The bean counters seem to affect the ability to remove and replace parts than the engineers misgivings. Design it the cheaper way. Not the better way
Thanks for watching!! I’ve really been trying to shorten the intros. I try to get right into the action, especially on the newer videos. I agree, these babies are certainly not the most enjoyable thing to work on!
Not a Daytona Shelby, this is a Turbo Z with the "CS" package, which was the wheels, more or less. Any plans to make it a blow through with an intercooler? Those old pull through intakes are pretty bad at leaning out cyl 4, even with the Direct Connection intercooler that sits right over the motor. Pro Tip: Delete the EGR, or "disable" it and just leave the tube for visual inspection. You can even re-use this T03 for a "Blow through" setup by getting a blow through compressor housing and cutting a notch in the turbine housing to clear the blow-through intake.
Thanks for watching! The way I understand it CS was a handling package that had a larger sway bar and different struts. CS stands for Carroll Shelby so I just have essentially named it “the Shelby”. I just plan to leave it stock! It’s going to be a cars and coffee cruiser when I’m done with it, not really going for anything in the way of performance.
@@TheMoparGarage You are 100% correct. As far as I know Shelby wasn’t really involved with this specific vehicle. Now I know from his fantastic interview he did years back he mentioned they were able to harness a crazy amount of power out of the 2.2 liter. I had 2 of these cars, 2.5 and 2.2 both red and and the 2.5 was my first vehicle at 18 years old and both were C/S car and the package or C/S is just like you said. It’s a handling package and there might have been a slight interior upgrade but I’m not sure. It is definitely a Daytona though. Hate to drag this on but I believe I will be purchasing another one as I spoke too the owner today. It’s not a C/S but it’s T-top and looks just like a C/S from the pics. I want to do this with my 17year old and want to make a serious crazy stupid build! My first ideas were to pull the stock everything and put in a V6 turbo or drop a V8 but I do want it rear wheel drive or AWD would be the goal. So I’m subscribing now to you and if you can help me out on the motor ideas. Thinking a Honda K20 or K24, even though I commented above on the V6 or V8. There will be a ton of fabricating which won’t be cheap but I want my T-Top to go fast!
Hey Austin. Love the videos. My son and I are doing the head gasket on his 1988 Shelby Z. In the one video where you were working on the subframe you unbolted what looked like a strut/shock that is in the back of the engine. Do you know the name of that or where I could pick one up. Tks.
Thanks for watching! I believe it’s called the transmission Mount strut. I got a good used one for mine from Steven at turbododgeparts.com. Try reaching out to him I’m sure he has more, tell him I sent you!
@@robertpalkovic831 any time my friend! I got a promotion at work so I haven’t had time to do the rings and rod bearings, but I have all the parts and the cylinder hone ready to do the job. I’m hoping to get it done within the next couple weeks and get a video up on it!
The door tag is not legible anymore so I’m actually not sure of the build date. There’s some turbo dodge Facebook groups that are great spots to scour for NOS parts!
I'm having an issue with my 1986 Chrysler laser XT, it's a 2.2lt turbo. It doesn't accelerate like when i first got it. Before i was making around 8lbs of boost, now i can barely make 4 and my acceleration is so slow now, i can barely get to 35mph. Do you might know the issue? Thank you.
Man, it could be so many things. If you truly can only get to 35 it could be anything from an internal engine issue to something easy like a pickup coil. If it were my car I’d start with the basics, check compression, spark, fuel pressure and go from there.
It's really difficult to get the turbo out on those T2 cars without just pulling the whole head. I believe it's possible, but it's not a lot of fun. You'll probably have to pull it out the bottom.
Pistons and rings?? Unless it burned oil or had a rod knock, id just leave it alone. If you are going that far, might as well drop in a set of the big beam rods from 84 and 85.
I mis-spoke in the video, I am just doing rings. The car was burning oil, the turbocharger was bad so that was one cause, but while I’m in this deep I want to do rings because they could have also been a culprit. Just trying to eliminate anything that would have contributed to oil burning.
I have a 1986 daytona turbo z and am having issues trying remove the timing belt to get to the cylinders, I called a resto place and they said just to replace the cylinder head gaskets and restore the engine head would cost me 4k MINIMUM. I was wondering if you knew how to get the timing belt off in such a cramped engine without having to take the engine out.
Access the timing belt by removing the inner wheel well on the passenger side. I have a whole video doing the timing belt here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SqRDOZypG8U.html
So I have a 89 daytona, just wanted to see what you would do. Its non running basically i have to put al back together again. Would you just try to get it up and running or would you take tear apart the motor and rebuild?
Similar story to mine…mine was running but not well. What ends up happening is, you go in to do the basic things to get it back running and then find more and more issues as you dig in. I’d just plan on a full rebuild! Mine started as a quick one month project and has turned into over a year. Might as well do it right!
