When I fill a seam, I always apply tape on either side of the seam before applying the putty. In that way, you are cleaning up the smallest area possible. By applying the Tamiya putty as shown, excessive application of the putty to areas outside the seam can lead to loss of details when sanding and cleaning up.
I do the same, but to apply putty always put some in a plastic milk carton cap, thin it down with Tamiya liquid glue, stir it and brush it on! This way you're only putting it where you want it and it takes a lot less time to sand it whereas some guys really cake it on thick and that just screws the model up!
ever since I switched to vallejos plastic putty ive found my models look 10x better, having not to sand has been one of the best things ever and means i dont ever have to rescribe the panel lines, it literally saves me hours of work
@@jumb0j0ck I haven’t experienced any crumbliness from it yet, and for larger areas I usually take my time with it making sure it gets down in there properly, then simply taking a wet cotton bud and taking away the excess (with some care) I also only ever sand the area if it’s something water cannot take care off, like airplane fuselage halves or stuff like that, usually dampen the putty line with a bit of water then get on with sanding. Hope this helps! Fantastic product, will be buying again.
Not to be negative here, just good to keep in mind when using filler types; solvent based = shrinkage since drying action is solvent evaporation. Vallejo water based = dries with elasticity so unsandable - use only in wingroot as Aaron shows first time! Superglue = Apply only in small amounts that can be sanded soon after, repeat... Good advantage is no shrinkage and adds strength.
That's a good summary, thanks :) I didn't realise the vallejo filler was less sandable but having read some reviews it seems you're right - it seems to dry to a similar consistency to dried acrylic paint, and is more rubbery. Probably a filler you want to get just where you want it before it dries.
Found your channel in my recommendation screen. Just started making models again after 40yrs. Had to stop watch channels about guys catching wives cheating. Have to watch relaxing hobbies again so I'm a new subscriber
I’m cracking up over here . . . I found this video when searching for tips on filling gaps, and BOOM . . . the first thing I see is the HUGE Enterprise in the background (I built that one too!), and the Space 1999 ship (probably getting it for Xmas). I recently started building models again after a 40 year hiatus. Looking forward to digesting your videos!
Another tip for solvent based putties. I like that Tamiya grey solvent putty, but it's a little on the thick side sometimes. You can thin it with lacquer thinner, or I like to use lacquer primer. Mix just a little in and it will make the putty a little easier to spread.
I like to use CA mixed with acrylic powder for larger and uneven gaps. The sanding process is super controllable and the filler doesn’t shrink or expand and very stable so it doesn’t crumble.
Sprue goo filler is a more advanced technique that we'll cover in another video, but we and our contributors have used it plenty in FineScale Modeler magazine and in FSM books.
I'm surprise about the lack of comments regarding the Perfect Products Putty. Lying on your bench although didn't use or mention. They indicate this product is non-toxic on their videos, a huge asset to model building inside the shop.
This is really great information, however, I struggle with seams where the plastic doesnt quite line up. one side is lower or higher than the other. Can you go over how to make sure that the seams look even when completed?
Nice stuff. Have you experimented with CA Glue + filler like baking soda/talc/marble powder? It is much thicker than even thick glue but is easier to sand when hard. It is also less brittle.
It depends on what sort of putty you're asking about. Wall putty? Not so much. OTOH, there are modelers--some of them regular contributors to FSM--who swear by Bondo. The easy answer is to buy putty packaged and distributed for use with plastic models. There's little chance for you to go wrong.
Filling a gap with water-based putty works because styrene glue is what's holding the model together. Elmer's glue (or a water-based putty) wouldn't hold a plastic model together very well since it doesn't the same bonding strength as other glues.
Depending upon the gap you're trying to fill, you might need to apply a different kind of putty. Solvent-based putty is going to feather better, but it's also going to shrink, so you'll need to apply, let it dry, reapply, sand, and maybe reapply again. When sanding, make sure you go up to extra-fine grits to get the best possible finish. With practice, you can master this.
Thanks a lot. As a beginner, I have learned a lot watching your short and very didactic tutorials. Now, I am waiting to get my first issue of the magazine in the mailbox ;)
Lacquer thinner, yes. We haven't tried mineral spirits (added to the list of things to test). Two things to bear in mind when doing this: First, make sure you're mixing your slurry on a surface that will not react with the putty--glass or ceramic, for instance. Do not use a plastic surface because it will react with the thinned putty. Yes, that seems elementary, but you'd be surprised. Second, don't use the first batch you've ever thinned on the model you're working on; test it on a parts you don't care about and get a feel for how the modeling putty you're using reacts to the thinning agent. Good luck and happy modeling!
