Before cutting the steerer tube and running cables internally, I like to do a quick build with external cables and uncut steerer. Then I can ride an hour or two on the rollers to be sure everything is right before committing to the steerer length and re-running everything internally.
Just want to thank you for your videos on the Yoeleo 12 just bought one and got it about a week ago my first enigma was where is the top race for the front fork had no idea it was the C looking spacer acts as a race. You are a god send to me. Will be studying your sight to get this bike together. All my bike till now were early late 80's and 90's bikes steel frame Italian.
Excellent video, I do think the designers/manufacturers have made a mistake with this one. Yes it looks very neat, but there are thousands of older cyclists who have less flexibility so prefer a more relaxed style and that is where bikes with conventional stems come in helpful with the option of being able to swap and change to get the right degree rise for best comfort, but that is impossible with this integrated stem so I think sales will be reduced.
IMO, the best part of integrated bar/stems is the fact that the bar cannot slip. I once had my carbon bar slip from the stem when I hit a pothole at an intersection. I almost ended up under a car, because my bar was now facing downwards, and almost impossible to operate. I barely managed to stop the bike safely to adjust/tighten it.
As aways, great Video, and now you have 2 new Yoleos? Thats really nice! Yoeleo its a awasome brand, and im sure your videos are really good for then. Waiting for the next one, tks mate!
@@adamkubiak1933 Eh..? English is my third language. Did I f*ck up somewhere? Anyway I got this one: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NuCW4oArpUU.html
@@adamkubiak1933 Yeah, you are absolutely right. I can only confirm it's as stiff as a Cannondale C3 460mm wide handlebar that came with my Cannondale Synapse Carbon Disc 105 bike.
The compression plugs should be long enough to go past the top bearing. That's where they snap so you'd get a bit of a second chance if the plug was hanging on inside. They don't seem to do it though.
*Looked at a lot of options for getting my **Latest.Bike** . Great find in SAVA. Super light, nice components, really good value as it comes with many options only found in much higher priced bikes.*
Integrated bars are annoying to change cables. And they tend to bend pretty tightly. I would probably go back to a normal seperate alloy bar and stem combo once I crash lol
You shouldn’t grease the bolts because it reduces friction. Therefore you need a higher force than the recommended Nm to get them safely secured. And to much force may damage the threat and the material.
You can actually get closer to "true" torque with greased threads: www.reliabilitysolutions.net/single-post/2015/09/21/Why-do-we-Lubricate-Threaded-Fasteners When torquing down a fastener, a lot of the work is actually done to overcome friction between the threads of the bolt and the nut. But that also means that you can overload a bolt (or undertorque) if, say, some of the threads are not cut correctly or there was a dent on one fastener. Greasing the threads gets you more consistent torques, more of the time. Having said that, you should do whatever is specified by the manufacturer, not just whatever is "common practice." Manufacturers specify how things should be torqued down - be they with grease, dry, with threadlocker, or otherwise. If the factory says do them up dry, do so.
Very bad experience for me with Yoeleo. I ordered the R11. After 3 and a half months, they tell me that my frame is finally in paint and 10 days later, Yoeleo tells me that they no longer have... the frame in stock in my size.
That tunnel at the end under expressway has a strange optical illusion that looks like someone has strung a wire across it. Scared the crap out of me one ride
We have them everywhere here (Poland). If you know the bike way, you’re fine. But whenever someone is following me I feel urged to remind them of the ballard...
@@stevenleffanue The local authorities should fix those dangerous situations! In the Netherlands you can even mandate it through the national cycling covenant...
@@entername6599 I bought a Moquai BB 386 to 24 shimano. Its a screw together type. Only found on some german shops. If I have problems I can always consider something more expansive (hambini)
Hi, thank you for your videos. I would like to upgrade my Merida scultura disk bike with this handlebar but I wondered if you can install this in an usual frame in order to hide the cables changing the top bearing headset and the whasers. Thanks so much and grettings from Spain
@@stevenleffanue thank you so much. I must check it, my fork tube is 1 1/8" so I think is possible. Last question. Are the special washers included with the hadlebar o you must buy separatly? Thanks for your patience
Hi mate i have a problem trying to figure out my internal stem cables. Road bike rim pull internal cables . I have no problem feeding them through the bars and stem. The thing i cant grasp is ,I have 3 internal plastic inner cable sleeves that i must put my front & rear & brake cable ( rim brake ). there is no cable stop for the outer cables from the stem . what cant i see or what do i fix it with. many thanks Crooky south wales UK
Super informative series of videos re internal cable routing. Thanks! I’m really struggling to find headset for internal cable routing as in your video. Can you help with the link where can I buy it? Thanks!
Just sent mine off to the builder, had some trouble with the headset bearing , the hole on the frame is a bit too small , and the internal cable routing according to my builder is troublesome to say the least
Also had to wait a rather long time for the frame and when I got it, I realised they need me to wait for an extra few days for the handlebar, all in all not the best of experience, hopefully the riding quality will be better
Hi Oz I would like to ask you for your advice. Should I put some carbon gripper paste into of steerer tube (fork) where the wedge expander is seated? I have had Canyon H 31 Cockpit and when I wanted to set up cockpit up or down I could not tighten the cap screw. The screw started cracking and plastic liner has been broken. The wedge expander been pulled up. That means that I wanted to tighten the cap screw for 2 Nm and the wedge expander is pulled up through cap screw. Thank you very much I appreciate your help. Kind regards. Libor Nemcok
@@stevenleffanue Thank you Oz, do you think that would be possible after application of carbon gripper to tighten the wedge expander more? There is limit 4 Nm may I use for example 4,5 Nm? I do not want to wedge expander pull up by cap screw. Thanks.
Great video, thanks. Do you know what the flare is on these bars? They are sized from the width at the drops, but can't tell me what the width is along the top of the bar. I currently ride Easton EC90s that are 38 c to c at the tops and 40 c to c at the drops, so want to make sure that ordering a 40cm width will give me around 38cm at the tops.
@@stevenleffanue great thanks. It sounds like you recommend Yoeleo frames and handlebars, having no concerns about quality? Are you independent and just like the brand or are you endorsed by them in any way?
Hi Sir...Just need your opinion whether fully hidden cable can be made or done on Trek Domane SL5? I noticed in the earlier part of the video shown that bike. Would you advised me on how to fit a fully hidden cable on Domane. Thanks for your time mate!
Hey mate love the videos, its interesting that you spoke about clip on try bars, ive been trying to find something suitable for this style of handle bar but haven't had much luck, do you have any suggestions?
Hi Oz, I have a pair of the metron 5D ACR that I am just now realizing that the headset top that merge with the spacers is too wide for my headtube diameter, do you think that if I just run them all the way slammed, that it would be safe and reduce that kind of terrible round headset to intergrated bar stem look which is just visually wrong. Thanks!!!!
The height of the stem should accommodate your riding position. If you slam the stem it may be too low and cause inefficient riding style. Your bike fit is more important than aesthetics.
@@stevenleffanue Oh yeah it's all no problem to me as I already run it quite low regardless, do you think running it with no integrated top cap would be okay ?
Yes that should be fine once you have set your bearing compression and tightened the stem to the steerer , no top cap necessary, although if it rains water will enter your steerer tube.
Sadly, those that started riding in the 2020s will lust over it because that's what they usually see on bikes these days. Any other configuration, they call it external routing, even for bikes like the TCR Advanced, just because they can see brake and shift lines outside. (I hate the way they call it) I say they're naively wrong about this. If they want to talk about external routing, they should look at 20th-century road bikes. Bikes like the TCR Advanced still run internal routing as the shift and brake lines still enter the frame and fork at some point.
Hello sir...I am waiting for my new emonda sl6 arrive. Do you think yoeleo handlebar can make cable routing in new emonda look hidden? Is it compatible?
@@stevenleffanue Cool! Really looking foward to it because I'm really looking at the r12 or building up a winspace 1500 (with their wheel too which hambini tested to be really quick, dunno if that disc or rim), which are gonna be about the same price when you equip it out (usd). Thanks again!
Built up a an araya wheelset with araya rc 540 rims, DT swiss 2.0 1.8 2.0 Double butted, laced to Ultegra 6500 hubs 14 gauge spoke nipples. Big problem, the rim has lateral distortion to the side of each of the eyelets - the distortion isn't at the eyelets it's at the braking surface as if it is jittery when braking - I have close to perfect equal tension throughout. Rebuilt it again with using oil on threads and eyelet holes still same result. Gotta be over tensioned spokes causing the distortion right? I've got an average of 160 Kilograms of force on the spokes, should I reduce the tension to 117 kgf? There is no cracking of the rim, and when I de-laced it the destortion went away but when I retensioned it again it got distorted again. Could I have permanently distorted the rim? Can you give advice on this?
Yes,sounds like you have over tensioned it. Once alloy has been changed to a different shape it springs back a certain degree but will not be as it first was. Im assuming you want a stiff wheel? Use 36hole,straight 14 guage spokes.
@@stevenleffanue I've trued wheels that were out of true by 5 mm and never permanently distorted rims, how can a slight 0.05 mm distortion from over tensioning cause it to not be as it first was?
@@stevenleffanueYes, it's like the slightest little ripple on the braking serface area adjacent to each eyelet - 32 eyelets so 32 ripples 16 on each side, It's so minimal you can't true it out and when you ride the wheel it has a slight jitter when braking as a result. Had this problem on a different Araya wheel - araya VX 400 and was able to detension and rebuilt again to 173 kilograms of force and that fixed it , but with these Araya RC 540 rims it didn't work. Contacted Kerin Track store in Osaka Japan tonight waiting to see what they have to say.
Once you've ridden the R12, can you go downhill over 55kph? I have an R12, and suffer severe speed wobbles, I'm curious if this has anything to do with the overall stifness of the front end and fork, or if this is a wheel issue
Should fit ok then. You will also need the top headset pieces to pass cabling thru the headtube. All cables will need to exit the frame at various points. Front brake cable may need to exit at centre of handlebar.
Too conservative on steerer plug because you don't understand loading mechanisms, as most don't. How many pros have a spacer above their bars? Absolutely zero. Adding spacers above is also a good way to ruin the clean look you were trying to achieve by getting integrated bars.
Hi there can I have your email pls. I have ordered yoeleo frame. I plan to purchsse shimano ultegra Di2 R8070 group set. But I confused with this part (shimano EW-SD50)...there so many choice in length...which one is matching with Yoeleo R12 frame? Thank you
oz cycle ok, tks. I think I’m going to use mechanical as well . So if I can get Shimano Ultegra R8000 plus BB 386 with 24mm crank diameter, will fit on the R12 correct?
The worst thing I see on integrated cockpit cable routing is people using cheap/generic cables. Spend the extra money and get really quality cables, like Shimano's Dura-Ace polymer cables. Not only will will it feel a lot better from less friction with all those tight bends, it'll last a lot longer before having to redo the very time arduous (and expensive if you pay a shop) process of re-cabling the bike.
@Wooly Chewbakker Unfortunately not always an option for everyone. I've seen plenty of Dura-Ace and Ultegra with whatever bulk generic cable their shop has. Really makes you wonder...
They are just making it harder and harder to work on! I do 99% of my own bike work. I’m looking to buy a new road bike it’s all disk I like rim brakes easier to work on no messy oil. 🚴
8:24 in your other video you claim that compression plugs are unnecessary? You need to make up your mind (or just take that other nonsensical video offline as it's potentially dangerous to noobs).
A compression plug is required unless manufacturer states otherwise ie Canyon Aeroad. Its the top cap which is not require once stem has been tightened
@@stevenleffanue "A compression plug is required unless manufacturer states otherwise" Well then why did you not state it clearly in that other, highly misleading video?
Thanks for the video! Any experience with tne Deda Alanera bars? I sent you a message on instagram. If you get a chance, I’d love your feedback. Thanks again!
