I'm old school, with cables that would stick out the top of the levers, and then hidden brake cables, then hidden brifter cables. It wasn't until recently I started seeing these integrated frames/bars/headsets and wondered how they all go together. Now I know and could do it myself. It is a lot easier than I'd have thought. With wireless shifting it'll be even easier. Cables always were a mess on bikes no matter how they were routed and looked to be an afterthought.
This is just outstanding. I am preparing to fit my 1X setup with an integrated gravel bar. These tips are incredibly helpful. I see me cursing quite a bit while doing this. Thank you very much from Michigan USA. 🙂
Well done video Steve. That bike will be nice when its finished. Like to see you make a video once every 2 weeks verses once a month. Your video"s are very helpful.. Cheers..
Steve: another very good video. I always learn from your videos and have to tell you, after watch your R12 unboxing video, decided to purchase also R12 - 47frame size👍 Thanks for your continuous help. Waiting next video showing ULTEGRA components being install. My R12 assembly is matching your videos stage. Many tks from Brasil 🇧🇷
I used this tubing which I found on ebay to stop the rattle in my bike and its 100% done the trick. Super light, very easy to fit through the frame cable entrance. Saves you having to buy 10 meters of the stuff! Ebay Search - "Jagwire Internal Routing Dampener Foam Sleeve - 2m, Brake / Gear Cable Cover New"
Great Video Steve, didn't know your name till saw it posted below. I am considering buying this frame and building it up over the winter. Looking forward to the rest of the build. I love your channel!
Thanks for an other very nice and informative video, i like the anti vibration foam! I think it is a good idea to put some protective layer (grease or anti seize compound) on bolts and nuts, just as an advisory though that torque values (unless otherwise stated) are dry torque and not wet torque. Just be careful that you don't over tighten nuts when you use a lubricant. Cheers
I really like your youtube channel. I find that both your experience and your manual skills are of great service to the cycling community. I am writing to you because I have decided to build a road bike to my liking and especially within a budget that is reasonable for me. I ordered a frame from Yeoleo, the R11 for caliper brake. I will ride it with an ultegra D12 group. However I am facing a manufacturing conformiter issue with the lower head tube. Bottom bearing does not go straight and not deep enough into the tube. The thickness of the head tube here is variable and not quite circular. I tried to compress the entire headset adequately, but a large gap is visible between the head tube and the fork. Yeoleo tells me that I don't need to put on the Crown race. I have serious doubts in this regard. One, because the bearing does not fit into the head tube properly, and two, because without the crown race the lower bearing can get damaged I think. I managed to remove the bottom bearing which was really stuck in the tube but it's broken, I had to order a new one. I would like to have your opinion, because at the moment I am waiting for a solution from Yeoleo. (I gave them pictures of the problem and a description, a company mechanic is supposed to see to this problem). In the event that the frame is not replaced, can I gently sand or buffer this inner part of the tube in order to allow the bearing to enter properly but without weakening this part of the bike? If so, should a product be used to protect this area after sandblasting? Also what do you think about the crown race, is it essential? Thank you for your attention.
Often top bearing is deeper than lower bearing.. make sure correct bearing is used....should be appx 6mm. Yes you can sand inner head tube for good fit of bearing. You will need good eyes to see exactly where to sand. You don't need crown race ring. Sealed bearing inner race can sit directly onto carbon crown if it is the same shape.
@@stevenleffanue Thank you for your quick reply. It's appreciated. I cannot go wrong between the lower and upper bearing because they are not of the same diameter (1 1/8 and 1 1/2) and I know well in which direction the installed ones. I hope the delicate sandblasting operation will go well.
Hi Steve, Since the post service and customs are taking their good old time, I'm still waiting on my handlebars :( but that means I could watch your video before I do it myself :) Awesome video! 1. I notice the gap between the top cap and your frame is a lot bigger than on mine. I got a 7mm bearing and a 8mm bearing, and with the 7mm bearing on top the top cap sits nicely over the frame with a couple paper with wide gap (
H.set rubber washer needs be thinner than the gap. No sharp bend in my F mech cable and yes a rubber stopper to stop water ingress. All in the next vid
@@stevenleffanue Thanks for answering. I have one more question, do you consider maybe drilling a small hole at the bottom of the BB area to release water that found it's way into the frame somehow?
Hi sir your bike its sooo awesome hope i can have that. even your old bike that you didn't use or old parts of your bike if give me im very appreciate it coz idont have money to buy it, im shy but i like it thats why i ignore it, please don't judge me. Sorry for my english coz im in the Philippines. God bless you all
That kind of setup goes against the way i live. 1. Non adjustable bars 2. Live in florida or humid place 3. Sugar sand and humidity 4. Deep seeded hatred for icr 5. Remove it all in 3 mins. Clean and or replace.
If I ever had to seal my head bearing like that, I would throw away the frame. And I have never had headset creaking. Just grease the headset bearing. That's all. Grease! And if you ride in the rain, just degrease and regrease it again once a year. If you want, you can clean the bearings by opening the seal, clean everything with brake cleaner and ispropanol. The reassemble it with new grease. That's all. What the heck is this all for? Standard are the foam tube for the brake tube to stop rattling. Or use some cable ties and don't shorten them. But the foam tubes are better.
@Oz Cycle Hey mate since your in Australia why are you using front brakes on the left? Is it not possible to route this bike's front brake to the right?
It used to be that a bike was set up so you could use the rear brake while giving hand signals. When I was at school we still had the police come around once a year to give safety talks on cycling and they'd always get half a dozen bikes from the racks to inspect. If you had a back pedal brake with a front caliper with the handle on the left they'd tell you to change it over. These laws may also be state by state basis and obviously there's a lot of tourists bring their own bikes which would be plumbed up to their local rules so it's probably not policed anymore.
3:30 I am absolutely shocked by that gap. I have similar issue on 50 yo steel bike, and didn't expect that from modern one... I have a lot abusive words for those who responsible for that...
Hi all, In Italy I can't find the ' Disc Brake Quite', I find a 'liquid rubber' from Bostik, it could be an alternative? Or Can someone help me to something better? Thanks
how to thread cables thru frame ... me : bring the frame to the bike shop, let them suffer, i have a zero patience and luck when it comes to cable management
I understand the level of detail that you are going to here however I have a few concerns about the fork steerer with this approach. Firstly I think that the steerer should be inspected at regular intervals for wear at the upper bearing retaining ring and not be a set and forget area of the bike. We have seen quite a lot of wear at this area due to poor manufacturing tolerances and poor adjustment of the headset bearings. This wear needs to be checked before it becomes a potential serious problem. Also having the rubber peice in the stack may result in movement of the headset over time which could exacerbate the wear. For these reasons it may be better for this work to be done by an experienced mechanic rather than a DIY how to guide.
Agree Raoul , integrated systems make it more complex to service and inspect a head area. The rubber hood on this bike is not part of the spacers its a weather shield covering only...headset not needed any adjusting in over 7,000km so far and we got rough country roads here.
Nice video, but is this an outer cables to inner cables conversion ? Or is the bike an inner cable one from the start ? Is it carbon ? Is or was there a hole in the fork ? (if ut's a conversion did you drill one ?) And don't the 4 cables/pipes rub (inside) against the tube of the fork ? (everytime you turn, the pipes move and kind of rub normally ?). Thanks 😉👍
Thanks for the great video Steve. I am assembling my first frame and this is of great help. The Brake Quiet tubes are not available where I live. Would you advice to use Loctite or other thread locker instead? Thanks in advance
@@stevenleffanue Thanks for the swift reply. I had seen you applied the disc brake quieter around the bottom bracket and and fork tube bearings. As I could not find the same material in The Netherlands, where I live I wondered if applying loctite or thread locker in the same manner you used the rubber glue, would be possible. Thanks again, Ariel
Hi Sir, As I do not have any opening under bottom bracket shell, is it possible thread wires directly through shell and continue inside of chain stays tube for rear disc break and rear derailleur, will it somehow affect bottom bracket friction? In case it will not affect, does cables need to go above the bottom bracket as it show on diagram in you video?
Do you know what Yeoleo means when on their order site the "not decal" option. I'd rather not have the decals, but don't know what color the. frame will actually be?
Great video Oz, thank you!! I´ve looked everywhere for the C shaped top bearing retainer, can´t find it anywhere. Do you have some suggestion? Did it come with the handlebar? Thanks
great vid! i just received an r12 frame and debating getting someone else to construct it or myself to do it (i also bought a set of yeoleo 60mm carbon wheels with ceramic bearing upgrade). your series for this frame is perfect! thanks again. by the way, do you still use the r12 or have you moved to another frame?
Hi Steve, tremendous work here! May I ask you regarding the cable foam: do you use two separate parts for the chain stays and the downtube, leaving a gap for where the bottom bracket is?
on your last video you had to file down the drop out to make the through axle fit. Is this a sign that the frame is out of alignment and wheel will not have a proper fit? Could this cause uneven tire ware?
I know this is off topic, but I remember in one of your videos you said that with carbon rims, the tire psi should be deflated to 80 psi or so after every ride or at least at the end of the day. Wouldn’t that cause more stresses on the tire sidewalls, stems, etc. by constant daily inflating and deflating? Are you referring to possible carbon “tire channel” rim warpage if tire psi stays high over an extended period of time? Thanks.
Question about your Ultimate tool trolley, how many bearing slides do the drawers have? All the ones I try to check are locked, and there's never anyone around to help.
I cant see any bearings Derek,just slides on plastic inserts which fit into steel struts. They slide well and dont drop when fully extended....strong too.
Do you think it would be possible to build this bike with cable-actuated hydraulic disc brakes like the Juin tech F1? Can you feed the brake cables through such an headset?
Sir I need the information, what is minimum bore of head tube diameter that can fit internal cabling. I have 44 on the top and 55 on the bottom. Can I insert the cables from it.
No. The top headset needs to be internal 31mm bearing. Also consider how the front brake cable is going through the fork steerer and exits on the blade.
@@stevenleffanue I have fork with internal hole and outer hole also. So no issue about the fork, only concern about the head tube. The 44 is the internal diameter of head tube we get it.
Fully integrated hidden cables do nothing but make your bike harder to service, and with a couple of brands made the bike dangerous to ride, and are only desirable to cyclists with OCD drinking the koolaid. Be smarter people, there is absolutely nothing bad about cables and brake hoses showing on a bicycle.
