You heard it folks.....I finally got around to explaining and demonstrating why many frustrated owners contend with a leaky Briggs and Stratton Flo-Jet Carburetor and how to FIX IT!! I hope you all can learn a little here!
I had an old carb that just wouldn't stop leaking. Ended up buying a new emulsion tube, turning off the threads and used it as a lap for both angled seats. I grazed on a piece of brass so I could chuck it in a drill, put some fine grit lapping compound on the tube angle faces and lapped her back in so she sealed. If the carbs are left for a while and the pot metal loses its protective skin, it gets all white and powdery and will not seal at all. Great video, keep them coming!
I have a 1966 Simplicity 2110 Landlord with a Briggs and Stratton10 horse engine that my father just gave me, yes I spent many hours cutting grass and plowing snow with this tractor as a teenager, now I'm fifty and this Simplicity will not die. The first thing I did was to replace the gas tank, I had a stainless steel tank made then I disassemble the carburetor because of gas leaks. The gas was leaking badly out of the weeping hole. I'm happy to hear that I did not make the problem worse by not aligning the float needle valve properly. Thanks for the video.
I've owned just about every type of Garden Tractor out there, and Simplicity and Allis Chalmers are by far the toughest most versatile machines out there, no matter their age. Great to hear yours is still working hard for you! Cheers! Zip~
Well, actually you saved the Generator my friend! I just helped you with the issue! So glad to hear it's back up and running as it should! By the way....old equipment is never scrap material. There's always a way to bring them back. Cheers!! Zip~
THANK YOU so much for your instruction, you solved the problem/frustration of gas dripping from my mothers 45 year old Troybilt tiller!! We bought two new carburetors, one aftermarket and one OEM & they both did the same thing you described. I did exactly what you instructed on the OEM up to 9:50 on your video and the gas is no longer dripping, now we don't have to shut the gas off at the tank anymore!!
Your video was perfect in my book. Right points pointed, slow enough to understand and follow along with carb in hand. Thanks. Now I got see if it works.
Thank you! Exactly what i needed to see. My 1962 Simplicity Model W walk-behind has an 8hp Briggs whose carb has the same design .... And the same flaw. Two new carbs, I tried. Both leaked. Total of three leaking carbs. And now the explanation. So easy to fix. Thank you!
I bought a Simplicity 725 a few months ago with a mower deck and snow blower and it has this very same problem. I checked the float and cleaned the carb but it leaked as soon as I put gas back to it. I cant wait to try this out. Keep up the videos, they are very helpful, as I have learned a lot from them. I also have an Allis Chalmers B1 that my wife's Uncle won from a 1 dollar raffle ticket at a fire department carnival back in 1964.
Zippo, again you are a credit to all that is good with life and old Simplicitys. Trying to do this proved problematic with my "custom" screwdriver. On my 7116, even a fairly short screwdriver was hitting the frame and I couldn't get a feel for when the long jet tube bottomed out. So I will have to buy a stubby and grind that to fit. then I shall see if the fix works. Thanks again, Charlie
Great video! I got a NOS re-build kit from eBay and it had a little scrap of a bulletin that said on engines with fuel pumps to remove the spring on the float that holds the needle valve. My engine was surging or rolling, especially at idle, so I did that to my flo-jet and it worked. The leaking on mine was from the welch plug, so the replacement in the kit seemed to help, but the spring removal was done at the same time, so that could have solved my leaking problem. I did not try seating the emulsion tube as you demonstrated, but I will. Thanks!
I wish you were my neighbour! Damn we would have a blast with engines and all.. There is an abundant amount of information in all your videos. That's just so kind of you to do and help so much. Thx
Thanks for the video. I bought a couple AC 7xxH parts tractors for my son to combine into one working tractor. The old carb had stripped threads in the pot metal for the metering jet so we bought a new carb which arrived all leaky... This video appears to be the answer. Thanks and see you on SimpleTractors!
this video got my old generator going. and running like new. first pull Everytime. and with Hermine approaching Massachusetts I will be ready. thanks for posting!
For older leaky ones, use the Teflon repair gasket got the pulse prime carb. And always remove the the emulsion tube before taking the to off, it will bend or break if you don’t. Good video.
Thank you for the video! Helps me out, I'll have to show my dad why his Sears 10/6 was leaking gas for over 25 years out the weep hole! I've tried it and it does work for those who need a second view.
It worked for me! Just got a 5hp with the updraft carb that was in unknown condition. Leaked like hell when I filled the tank. Tried this trick and worked like I charm!
Thanks zippo your alot of help as usual now I just need help on adjusting clutch by the way I know a guy that could be your twin and even sound alike.thanks again brian.
Basically you are machining a new seating for the beveled portion of the jet by backing off and tightening a few times. Yup I have a carb for what could be a 16 hp cast-iron block. This is going to be a good project
well ill be damned ... had that trouble years and years id turn the gas off or just let it drip this has went on over 25 years on some of my old briggs.. pretty smart fix
Zippo many many Thanks!! for this video and your explanation on how to fix the Flo Jet updraft carb. Exactly the fix I needed for the carb on the AC BIG TEN. ;-)
Designed to work, not be leak free lol. But they're very versatile and dependable when properly maintained and understood. That's the key...understanding them, and why I have posted so many video's on them. Cheers! Zip~
Zippo, I want to say I really enjoy your videos, my dad bought a 1962 Montgomery Wards Squire 9 brand new, I recently went to work on this tractor after a. year of not running, the 12V battery was twelve yrars old and would no longer hold a charge, after restoring the battery, which I have done several of now and they hold a great charge, anyway, I go to your videos first now to see if you have had problems similar to what this tractor may be exhibiting, I have been turning a wrench on vehicles since I was a kid( but after a stroke in 2005 my memory sometimes just goes, no sympathy , just wanted to point out how helpful your vids are) , sometimes though these little tractors can throw something a little different, I was watching the video on points and condensors, how sometimes this can actually cause problems similar to an older vehicle points and condensr that can make you think it is a carb problem, acting like an ignition control module etc, well, I went looking for your video on points and expected to find the points and condensor on the tractor, only to find my dad had been there, removed the condensor, wired in a coil from mid seventied pickup' added a resistor next to tge coil, took me a while to diagnose the problem, I could see the points fire when turning it over, had current at the coil but no spark, replaced the coil, worked for about three revolutions of tge engine then dead again, that is when I noticed the points werent firing again, loosened the adjustment on tge points, fired once then the points arm fell off, when inspectingbtge arm there was a small crack that was almost thtough the arm, looked in the spare parts and found another set of points and replaced them using your video and gap setting, IT'S ALIVE. It fixed what I had thought was a carb problem because everytime this would get hot the tractor seemed lije it was surging up then down, would foul the plug because it wasnt sparking like it should. I know, talk talk talk, just saying keep up the videos. Thumbs up!
I babble on all the time Robert, so talk all you want and I'll listen! Just an FYI, your Squire 9, being Gold in color and with the 23D engine is a 1964. In 1962, the Garden Mark looks just like my Old Squire with cyclops headlight and flip up hood and they're orange instead of gold. I too have a Squire 9, although mine is a clone. They are identical to the early Allis Chalmers B-10 and Simplicity Landlord. If you'll find me on Facebook (ZippoVarga) or email at ZippoVarga@gmail.com, I would be happy to send you manuals on your engine and tractor and any implements you may also have. Cheers! Zip~
"there goes that high pitched voice again" then you decide to continue to speak like that hahaha I love the humor.. another great and informative video! Thanks!
I have a series on Governor operation on a variety of engines. Check those out to see if your questions are answered. If not, then we can see if we can sort out your issues. Just a side note, on one video I was incorrect in the sequence/process. It goes as follows, Loosen nut to governor arm, open throttle butterfly fully, rotate governor pin clockwise until it stops, pull governor arm down until it stops then lock down the retaining nut on the governor arm. Hope this helps and thanks for the Kudos! I try to throw in a little humor here and there. Cheers! Zip~
Pleased to say after watching this video and the one on sanding the points when you loose spark my 1967 allis chalmers b10 is back up and running again still weeping a little but hey shes running and thats all that I care Thanks for the great videos
very timely, as you know (based on the pics i sent) the throttle linkage on my flo-jet is reversed, and affecting the governor operation. well on closer look, there is an abnormal end play on the throttle shaft as well as evident wear on the shaft hole in the casting.. Remedy will be likely the spare off the '68 landlord. Learned a lot more about the emulsion tube engineering. Thanks Buddy! I just have to wait for this incessant rain to stop before incapacitating the '69 Landlord "Princess" .Then off to fix the thottle cable, and install the lights.
I'm glad I found your video before I bought one but I somehow managed to fix it once then I took it apart again cause I accidentally crushed the needle and it wasn't getting any gas the so I took the needle out and rolled it on a file to get it round again
Nice, so I just picked up from a buddy an early 80s Workhorse GT1000, got it pulled apart to clean tank, carb and all the years of neglect and sitting static in my buddy's junkyard, I'm gonna pull this Carb apart tomorrow and wanted a review knew you would have it! Haven't gotten to my AC Bigten yet needs some parts and im broke more or less, got the workhorse for helping him on a couple of projects. But he knew I was lusting for it....
I think it's awesome that you were able to get the GT1000! Wheel Horse is no joke. I used to be a Wheel Horse guy before I discovered Simplicity. Cheers! Zip~
I'm working on a wheel horse c-81 with a 10 hp briggs and stratton ( yes leaky carb included that's what I was trying fix and fixed it once now I need to fix it again)
@@therelentlesscreator3938 I never could get the Briggs to run right, plus clutch nightmare's so I threw a Honda 13hp on mine just added a double pulley and away I went. Use it all the time tons of power, simple engine swap makes the old wheelhorse so much more useable its def no collector piece it earns its pay everyday.
Awesome video mister. I have been working on a "tug pulling" Gilson/Montgomery Ward with what I think is a 16hp Iron block Briggs and guess what, The damn carb leaks. GO figure. Now wishing I would have watched this video after resetting the float level , umpteen times. Thanks for the tips.
Just found this video due to the fact that my 1966 B10 all is chalmers has a costant leak. Like what your saying an it's a new f#@$kin carb. Can't wait to try tighten ing the fuel tube. An start it up will text you back when I get to it this week end hopefully this will be the cure Ray Stein
Well I found that out the hard way last week when I brought a 40 dollar one when that didn't work I brought the briggs one for 131 but it leaked. Which is when I found her video that's when I put the guts from the one I brought in the old briggs carb due to break ing off the emulsion tube cause it wasn't in the hole at the top a bent it off but with the one from the China carb in the old carb im anxious to try resetting the tube to stop the seeping while the engine is runnig
Gonna try it. Mine does it on a 10hp, 1964 Allis. You've been rite sooooo far. Now I have Gov issues. The Briggs Manuel you sent me doesnt show the springs location. I need to get NEW springs, the ones that it came with look like they came off an old cot. The hookup points are the question. It's a Landlord Allis Big 10
I have a complete series on governors on the channel Garry. All your questions should be answered within them. As for obtaining parts, see my other reply to your comment on the Governor 2 video. Cheers! Zip~
Johnny's shows the emulsion tube with the rebuild kit but when you get it it's not there. They said they don't include it any more. They didn't charge me for shipping but it was about 15.00 more this was summer of 2016. Insult to injury I had to pay Taxes on it because I'm located i Maryland as they are. Thanks you are the reason I could a rebuild the carburetor. I had bought a new chines that looked good but they had landed the metering valve so hard it stripped off brass and deformed it badly . One day you will have to explain the ignition to me It' an 89 7 hp. horse . By and Thanks
Smart creative kids get that way from being around smart creative parents. I never saw that layering technique before. (In Photoshop yes, but not real world) Dad- I’m glad you know those carbs and I appreciate you taking the time to pass it along. Daughter- I thought that was a photo at first glance! Keep making the world a prettier place, I think you have that something that most people can only dream about. Best Father’s Day present is an art scholarship 😬
My Daughter is extraordinarily artistic. Although she has a full time job at a factory, she's quickly becoming known for her photography skills and is booked in her studio. She got a little of Dad's DNA for sure! Cheers John, and thanks much for making my day with your awesome comment. Cheers! Zip~
My carb didn't leak initially, but it started leaking after it was 20 years old. Pot metal slowly expands over time (most low-melting metals re-arrange their crystalline structure over time), causing one of the seats to unseat. I independently discovered this (I put water in the fuel bowl of the open carb, and saw weeping around the bottom of the emulsion tube). So if your engine starts getting cantankerous to start, it could be due to flooding of the lower air channel because of this leakage.
I have the same updraft carb part number 392587 from Briggs but the throttle shaft is set to ten o’clock closed to the linkage can pull it down to open…also there’s a threaded hole on one side as well as the one that holds the air filter bolt in…I got everything buttoned up and it’s running great, but when I kill it, it seems to have a little gas/oil mix near the weep hole or the hole for the air filter bolt/screw whatever…it starts and runs fine with this happening. Now I did add some oil and it smoked for a while but now it runs smooth and no smoke, just this tiny discharge of oil/gas…what do you recommend? I got the main jet on there tight as well as the metering ones and it’s tuned great…
Hi Will. That little hole is called the Weep Hole. And for good reason....when you shut the engine off, the engine doesn't stop rotating instantly, it winds down, and as it does so, fuel is being pulled up in pulses as the engine comes to a stop. That unburned fuel has to go somewhere, so it gravity feeds back down the throat of the carburetor to the weep hole. It's perfectly normal and why the weep hole exists. It's usually a few drops and the reason it appears oily or darker than fuel is just sediment it picks up along the way to the weep hole. Reducing the engine to slow idle before shutting off the engine will reduce the amount of fuel that drains back down. Zip~
Hey Zippo, than you for this. I have a 1969 Gilson Garden Mark Squire 12 tractor. This has recently became an issue. My carburetor is not new. When I got the tractor the other day the throttle cable tand choke cables were frozen. I was able to get the throttle cable unfrozen. The choke control cable broke. I cannot find this part anywhere. Where and how do you get replacement parts? Also after reinstalling my throttle cable the throttle cable will not stay in "fast" it pulls back to about mid-throttle. Is there an easy fix fr this issue?
Hi would you have any videos on how to hook up linkage, springs on a up draft pot medal carb for a wood spliter, bought and nothing hooked i could use your advice, just came with a bag with springs and wires I bought a new Briggs an station carb, and of course nothing included but one gasket a bit of advice for a mountain girl . did watch all your videos on that carb and was helpful. Thanks P.S. I did subscribe .
Hi Frosty. I'm sorry for the long delay in replying. Email me @ ZippoVarga@gmail.com and include photos so I can help you. There are a number of different throttle configurations used with the Up Draft carbs. Cheers! Zip~
Great video, i have an old generator with this carb. The carb was completely rusted out on the inside. I bought the exact carb in this video. The problem is I need to reverse the high speed butterfly because the orientation of the connection / pull for the throttle on the new carb forces the engine to run wide open. It looks like I can just pull the pin on the adjustment side, take the screw out of the butterfly and reverse the shaft running through the carb and reinstall the butterfly and pin. Will that work? Will the engine run right? Thanks Sean
It sounds like you purchased a Chinesium knock off instead of an OEM Briggs & Stratton carburetor. The old saying, you get what you pay for holds true with them. An OEM Briggs carburetor would cost between $175 and $300 depending on the model. My guess is, you paid around 30-40 bucks. All I can say is best of luck getting it to run right. I have heard people say they've gotten them to stop leaking and run correctly. And, you should be able to reorient the shaft and butterfly plate. I wish you good luck Sean. Please keep me posted. Zip~
That’s exactly what it probably is a $30 chicom carb. I found the generator in the trash. I have been bored during the Covid quarantine so I am playing with this generator to keep busy. I don’t need it. For 30 bucks and a beer I have something to do in the garage. I am going to reorient the butterfly see what happens.
Correct....the weep hole is the lowest point and where the fuel travels to. Seat the emulsion tube as shown and the weeping should stop. If not, re-seat until it does stop leaking. Being careful to not damage the delicate brass driver slot. Zip~
Great video. I have gas leaking from around the top of the fiber washer above the high speed jet is that because of the same problem you just explained here? Thanks
I am having trouble finding an engine number for my 1966 Moto mower Briggs 6hp . I need the coil , can you supply a coil number? Coil has been tested and is not good. Thanks for this tip Sir!
Hello, I finally found this video on my exact carburetor for my air compressor. Thanks for the great video. I'm unable to find a video on this carburetor of how to adjust. I can only find videos that have the valve at the bottom also. Mine is exactly like this...it only has the high speed and low speed as you showed here. Can you please advise how to correctly adjust the fuel mixture? Pretty please? Thanks for the extra info about that cap at the end too! I didn't know what I was doing until I found this:)
I've got carb adjustment videos on my channel Renee. I'm glad this video found its way to you and I hope you're able to get things dialed in. The "standard" setting is, Two turns out of the lower main metering screw and 1 1/2 turns out on the idle screw that faces the air cleaner base. Be very careful to NOT tighten the main metering screw...just gently turn it down until you feel resistance where you're pretty sure it's seated. Over tighten it and you'll create a ridge on the metering needle and then you're in for a fight to get the carb adjustment right. Again, Videos on my channel. Good Luck! Zip~
and what is to do when this carburetor is also leaking out of the throttle shaft / throttle wave on the upper carb body ? I don't understand why it can be leaking out of the throttle shaft from the throttle wave. I believe that the float needle valve does not close properly and the carburator overflows. What did you think about this ?
i have a Baron-H dont know what engine oil it uses and need to kno....ALSO Mine is smoking and it fells like is backfiring and if i change it to FAST SPEED it dies out and shuts off...
Heya Penncraft...Check my video titled Blue Diamond. I took a stock Penncraft that had years of ugly still hanging onto it and slapped the ugly off with a full on custom build. Zip~
ZippoVarga ok I will! Guess what happened to mine zip? The chain broke and the force of the chain breaking caused the transmission to go to crap! The penncraft no longer works... I still love your videos! Keep making them! God bless.
just got a B+S I/C model 195432, the intake tube (below the air cleaner) fills with gas and wont go through. bottom of carb leaks like crazy. What can I do to fix it?
I'm currently battling a carburetor issue. I believe it has to do with spring tension on the governor.. I have a few questions for you to help me diagnose my issue if you don't mind
My high idle adjustment screw (new one ) leaks is there supposed to be an o ring on that, I had a small o ring in the rebuild kit but there wasn't one on the old screw so I didn't put one on it. I did put the flat fiber washer on the nut that the adjustment screw screws into any suggestions?
Hey Zippo love your down to earth comments and vast knowledge on these machines. I just brought a new carb for my Sears SS15 and it leaked slightly there also and now I know why, THANKS MAN!!! one other thing, my carb has the choke on the wrong side and with what you just explained in this vid I will attempt to swap it around with out screwing it up. Also the air filter stud and joke cable clamp screw appear to be different thread pitch?, still looking into that. Anyway goos vids and you are the first one I have evr subbed to, keep up the good work.
