Thank you for the video, I have cleaned the carb once, and your video gave me a few insights, but I start my 8hp, it will run for a while then stop, I pull it, it runs for a while then quits, when the tank is chocker block full longer time between starts.
I have been looking for the "proper" screwdriver for the venturi tube. The hex bits we all have a bunch of is a genius idea. I often thought of grinding a screwdriver but never did,
In hopes you would sometime do a video or videos on running gas engines on gas fumes. One with a bubbler and maybe one using wicking fumes. I have followed you channei for a long time and have tried multiple project and love your. Work
@Brookwoodbass ..... There are a few variations of this carb. The gaskets are universal. Just make sure that you don't block any holes in the in the metal and your good (should only be one hole)
frigg man wish ya posted this about a week ago cause i started rebuilding the exact same carb and didnt realise you had to take the ventury out first and i took it apart and snaped the ventury. Nice vid thought! keep the vids coming!
Someone crammed the needle valve in so tight it put a rim on it. Ordered a rebuild kit and the new one is a different length. Also it came with two gaskets- which one do I use? I’m not sure if whomever did it before did it right. One has 3 holes and the other has 2
I've had that main jet stripped before! Your not entirely screwed. Take a torc bit small size and pound it in and slowly turn it out! Works good but you'll need a new needle! But hey a new needle is better than buying a new carb! Hardest part is taking the torc bit out of the needle after
Mower Madness Yes, but they do seize up quit often and are impossible to get out. I've had to drill a few out and re-tap the hole to install a new emulsion tube/jet(not the easiest thing to do).
@OldBikesRule68 ...Not enough fuel is getting through the main jet (bottom of carb) I would first try turning it out (CCW) a quarter turn at a time while testing. If it makes no difference when you turn it out then the main jet passage is clogged. Good Luck
On the bottom of the carb, there is hole right in the middle, it has a brass colored something in it, looks to be a filter, What exactly is that for? mine leaks fuel from there every once in awhile.
KydexByParlusk That is in case your float/needle leaks and overflows. This allows the fuel to drain out and not build up in the tube. Otherwise it would fill the entire tube and get sucked up into the motor when you attempted to start it, hydro locking it. More than likely your float is set to high or your needle is leaking a little.
I would like to convert this thing to run on propane can I put a generic carburetor on that with the proper bolt holes and then put the propane adapter hooked on to that is that practical if so can you give some hints
Found your video very helpful! Just one question? The unit I am trying to work on is a 3 screw.The carb kits comes with two styles of gaskets! one gasket has 3 holes sort of triangle positions the other has two holes at 3 & 9 o'clock which one should I use? Just learning this stuff and would appreciate your input. Thanks and keep up the good work!
the float was the problem. now it leaks gas out of the bottom of the carb near the welsh plug. i just shut the shutoff valve on the tank off. my snowblower works now but it is weak when it throws the packy snow
my 1980 craftsmen snowblower has a similar carb but it is a winter version and I rebuilt it and my engine starts better but will only run for a couple of seconds then dies. what else might be wrong? should i change the float? i would love to hear your opinion on the subject sixtyfiveford. anyone else can also pitch in ideas of what might be wrong.
It is runs (with choke off) then dies, then you can restart it a few seconds later; you have a fuel delivery problem. This could be a clogged inline fuel filter, a float set too low(should sit level with carb upside down) or a clogged/pinched fuel line or fuel inlet. Pull the fuel line off the carb and allow it to flow into a container. You should get a fast steady flow.
I have a similar carb on an older briggs 11 hp. it leaks a little bit of fuel from the screen area underneath the carb body. any suggestions on cause and fixing?
This is excellent! I just inherited an old 1970 MTD Tractor with a 7 HP B&S motor on it. The carb looks very similar and I had never seen one before! Are parts readily available for these?
Yes, parts are readily available. However, rarely do they need any parts replaced. Most of the time it's just a clean. This is especially true if it hasn't had 10% Ethanol gas run through it.
Thanks for the video. Does this carb drip fuel from the choke "hole" on the bottom when the choke is on? By choke "hole", look at 5:55 and the "middle" stub on the bottom of the carb is where it drips from. On one forum, it says its normal for that style, what do you think?
sixtyfiveford I'm new to the small engine repair genre, is this a serviceable part? Its from a Toro Snowhound. Here's a pic: img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/diatribe/IMG_7221.jpg I appreciate your time.
Technically it is an emergency drain. It is designed to prevent further damage in the event the fuel overflows. It signifies that the float and needle are leaking, the main emulsion tube is leaking or the gasket on the carb bowl is leaking.
I have another question please! It'd be great if you could help me! Ok, I rebuilt my carb and now the bottom of the carb/ airfilter parts fills up with fuel any ideas? It won't start either thank you!
Mower Madness The float level is set to high or it is filling up with fuel and sinking or the needle and seat are not sealing. This allows gas to rise to high and run into the tube.
Thanks! So much! The float was sitting level when I assembled it and I forgot a seal, I out the seal on and now it only leaks from the air filter thing so bend the float tab down?
Make so the float part furthest from the needle sticks up 1/16-1/8" when held upside down and gravity is closing the needle. This will give a little more pressure on the needle/seat, sealing it.
From old gummed up gas: carburetor cleaner will dissolve it and free it up. From corrosion: penetrating lube plus carburetor cleaner and maybe some heat and some prayers.
I have a carb like the one in your video. Already put the long screw on it. When I start it it starts easy, but dies out fast. Won't run without the choke. Can you help?
+Lynnette Cox You need to screw the main jet out(counter clockwise) so it gets more fuel. Do this until it will run without choke and then give it an extra 1/8 of a turn out.
