How I fixed my Dryer. It was running but not heating. Turns out it was a blown timer. Saved $80 by fixing it. Affiliate links (if you should need a timer make sure to put your model number in) www.amazon.com...
For people with issues of the timer not keeping correct time or your dryer runs all the time. There is a video about the three dials that are under the timer that have a hole in each one and those holes should be lined up. They are synchronizing holes. The fix was to put the holes in alignment and use a 10 mm machine screw about a 1/2 maybe 5/8 long, and gently thread into the first gear through the second, and then the third, and it will keep the holes in alignment. To get to the top of the first gear you have to use a pair of snap ring pliers or some other do-it-yourself way to get the locking ring from around the finger that the knob is on and then you can pull the knob out and then the plate that you will be exposing the three rings
On my Amana the contacts were OK. I could check that without taking apart the timer. My problem was on "auto" regular/delicate cycle, the timer would not advance past heating phase.... IE ... stuck on heat and run forever. Normally you would think that the thermostat was stuck and not switching heat off, but this problem was only happening during this one cycle. The problem wound up being the plastic cam disks that were not syncing together because of the wear where the plastic disks fit onto the metal shaft .... IE .... too much free spin of the disks on the shaft. I needed about a 4 mm diameter screw for my disks. But, I had to use my Dremel with cutoff wheel to remove the head on the screw and cut a slot into the end of the screw for screwdriver. The screw head blocked the "push to start", as my timer has that added feature. Here's link to video on the disks ...... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cN7H00bYz_o.html
Just a couple of things for the DYIer's . When it comes to appliance parts the manufacturers of the appliances are all buying from the same companies that manufacture parts. An example, the plastic latch on my dishwasher soap dispenser door broke when I looked for the part $55, I noticed numerous brands could use the exact same part. I saw a different brand dishwasher out to trash when I checked it had the same soap dispenser as mine just a different color pattern. Wala free soap dispenser. Defrost timer upright freezer $80 OEM $13 AOM same exact item in every way. This holds true for many of the parts in all home appliances. So when people say my timer motor is shot and they don't sell mine, There are other machines out there using the same exact motor. Just figuring out which is the problem. They want to sell you a $10 part for $100
First off, just wanted to thank you for helping fix my timer. For added information to help anyone in this thread, I had TWO issues. There was arcing between a few of the switches which created a bad connection AND a slightly - I mean ever so slightly - poor connection. Subtly bending the metal of the switch and sanding the corrosion away with a nail file did the trick. However, my timer still was not advancing in automatic mode; it moved in the 'timed dry' setting, but not automatic. Ultimately, it was the cycling thermostat. The cycling thermostat tested for continuity at room temperature and 'seemed' to switch off near 153 degrees Fahrenheit (which was the manufactured temperature rating). I came across some information that testing the cycling thermostat for continuity alone wouldn't yield the part defective/non-defective and that a non-properly functioning cycling thermostat may leave the dryer running too hot. I asked the girlfriend if she noticed the clothes were super hot and she said, "Yes!". Changed out the cycling thermostat and I'm good to go. Hope this helps you other DIY-ers out there and thanks again Whiteboardcoder!
I want to thank you for making this video. I did exactly as you did. After checking continuity on the heating element and fuse. The Timer would have cost $117. It took me a total of $5 to repair. $2 for Gas and $3 for steel wool to clean the contacts. Total time to repair 3 hours. So thank you. Highly recommend this video.
I've tried this many times on many dryers. It's only a temporary fix. The contacts have overheated and are destroyed--just look how discolored that metal is. You have restored continuity but when that high current runs through them the resistance burns them up again in no time. Try this if you need to use the dryer while you wait for the new timer. Be advised there is a risk of the contacts fusing together. I've seen timers completely meltdown.
agree,i understand ur trying to save money,but theres a reason it arched and burnt that to begin with. i feel that repair wont last few weeks or months ..
To me it seems like a maintenance issue, either u maintenance it or you don’t know how and scrap it. I What’s different from the way his is after tweeking it compared to brand new??
Mine lasted 4 months. Now every time I clean the contacts it runs a cycle but once its about to finish and it's suppose to shut off it archs. Time for a new timer unless someone knows a permant fix?
Thank you for the idea. Didn't even think of it. Was just gonna buy a brand new one. I opened mine and sure enough the contacts were burnt so I cleaned them up and it's working again. 👍🏽👌🏽
WOW! My timer had a thin black dust that looked like coal ashes on the same contact terminal like yours. Looked like a short circuit. I cleaned it with alcohol and it worked! Thank you so much!
Even if you don't get a spark, sometimes the contacts just oxidize enough to stop working. Just fixed my timer using your method with a little precision file I had on hand. Thanks!!
Thanks so much...I would not have thought to open the timer. One of the contacts is 95% burned off it's arm. I tries fixing it with a little solder but no luck. The good new is that the timer is $95, far less than buying a new dryer. Best is that I figured it out. Thanks
Excellent video. Many (most?) people think they can't handle such a repair but some of these people may do more complex tasks in their respective professions. It's strange how so many of us are conditioned to stay within our profession or routines or habits.
@Phil Uplin We've had two clothes dryers and each had troublesome timers. The timers on the dishwashers and clothes washers have worked year after year but the dryer timers . . . bummer. I'll re-watch this video and others I may find and then probably try to fix my own. We tend to get long service from our household equipment.
@@criticaltinker5687 Sometimes it becomes frustrating. Our over the range Whirlpool microwave had the front doorframe come off when we pulled the handle. It still works and I bought a radiation meter to make sure it was safe to use. I bought replacements twice but sent them back; wrong size. How does a shipping department make such a mistake? A replacement door assembly is priced at 60% of what we originally paid for the new machine. The original design holds it all in place by integral plastic clips - which broke. I'm guessing that a trainee designed it. I could easily buy a new microwave but . . . stubborn male? Some people would say that's redundant.😇
Excellent video. Great instructions. Had heat but wont complete cold cycle, then no heat only cold. Replaced cycle thermostat and nothing. Almost bought a new one, then saw this video and saved me.
They wanted $215 CDN for a new timer for my dryer (plus $200 labour if I had someone come out to the house for install). Decided to open it up myself , and found exactly the same problem as yours. Guess what? Your "fix it" did the trick, and my dryer works with heat again. Much thanks!
This is the fix that worked for me. I noticed my multimeter only registered continuity when I was turning the timer handle, but when I let go it lost it. Then when I pushed down on it slightly it came back. Contacts just needed some light sandpapering! Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!
Looking at the outside of the timer I just new that once I take those two screws loose there would be springs and whatever popping out everywhere. But after watching your video I probed the black and red wires and got no readings. So I opened the case cleaned the points and now it works like a new dryer. It was an easy fix. Thank you for the video Patrick
This was a lifesaver! Mine was a bit different but technically the same concept. Didnt see any charring but when i looked close, there was a little bit of soot on the little bumps on the ends. So i scratched them up a bit, grabbed some qtips and rubbing alcohol....worked like a charm! Thank you for this video!
people like us, who dare repair...are few and far between. glad to have found you and your commentors . will give your timer repair a shot ..with my old dryer...thank you .
Mine was a faulty timer too, open circuit in the two big wires on the timer when in a heated position on the knob. Part number for timer was w10185982, but I removed the screws out the back and cleaned the contacts in the switch and fixed it for free saving me an $80 switch or buying a whole new dryer for $300+ which I had been considering. Whole process took under an hour with a lot of distractions. Thanks so much!
Great Video! Thanks for taking the time to share. While I was not able to save my timer it did confirm the problem. Mine was burnt in the exact same place as yours. It was burnt so bad there were not contacts to save. Thanks again.
And this video encouraged me to get out of bed at 2am on a Monday morning to try this because I was so curious. If the contacts fail again I'll know what's wrong and just buy a new switch but after having just shelled out $380 for a washer 11 months ago I wasn't feeling that excited at the idea
Thank u...i replaced everything except the timer an its almost $100 we were trying to figure out to fix it without buying a new one. Thank u so much it's working great
Thank you very much after changing every sensor and heating element I was about to get a new dryer then I saw your videoand you saved me $110 for a new timer
Thanks after testing the thermostats and heater coil I was stumped as to why my dryer kept turning off with in 20 minutes of running. when I tried to restart it it only turned on when the knob was at specific points on the timer dial. I opened the timer and saw that the connection for "C-A" on a Whirlpool dryer had some slight charring. I used some vinegar and a nail file and it is working like new. Saved me over $100!
I'm all about fixing stuff myself....but this is a great way to start a nice fire to dry your clothes as you wash them...if the contacts are corroded, pitted or destroyed this much the timer should be replaced. An electrical connection such as this will cause a higher amp draw due to the electricity having to work harder to flow between the two destroyed surfaces. If you don't believe it go loosen up a neutral wire in your receptacles and hook up a hair dryer, it will destroy that loose connection. Be safe and take care.
Thanks a million! My dryer runs again after taking a little adventure inside the timer. Found a similar problem to the one in the vid and it works well enough to get us by for another little while. Cheers!
This was amazing! Mine wasn’t a corrosion issue, I had the DM101 timer and it had some how allowed the small timer wheel to fall off the big one, so I aligned everything back and boom it works! Saved me $200
I cant believe cleaning the inside of a timer with a nail filer, actually works😮. Man I appreciate ur help. I love when people unload their handy man work. I spent all day tryna figure out why my dryer isnt heating. An what do ya know. Some worn down contacts🤦♀️. Thanks again!
Awesome worked great just took a piece of sandpaper tore it folded it and used needle nose pliers to hold it and run it between all the different contract points and now works like new again.....thanks I'm gonna share this to maybe help someone else!
I can't thank you enough! I spent so much time diagnosing all the fuses and thermostats with no luck at all. Normally the timer is the last thing to check (because it's the most expensive!) but after watching this video I gave it a shot. Sure enough, the contacts were corroded and after a little working on the contacts I was able to get them clean and touching again. Much Much gratitude!
Saved me a bunch of $$$! thanks. A lot of videos only ever have you check everything but the timer. A note is that mine is an older brown top model, so the cables to check were yellow and red, or blue and tan which i figured by looking at the diagram label. In my case it was the yellow connector that had gotten a bit toasty on the inside, cleaned it up with some WD40 and so far it's working, however it's obviously missing some metal already so a new timer might soon be needed. Also i didn't bother to unplug any cables other than yellow and red before pulling the timer out.
Thanks so much for your help! It didn't occur to me to pull apart the timer until I saw your video. I was able to clean the contacts (emory board and vinegar on q-tips) and the dryer seems to be working perfectly now. That saved me the expense and hassle of buying and installing a new timer.
Great video, kept me from buying a timer that I don't think I need. Only getting high heat, no low, medium. Looking like the temperature selector might be bad, ohm readings are out of spec.
tiny area's sometimes a fiberglass eraser as they call them (the pencil size ones) would work well here but of course gotta remember your dealing with glass. glass dust isn't fun. Not to say that is the only thing to use but it does help
This worked great for me too. I had to bend a few of the contacts a bit to get them to close the circuit. I think the plastic tabs get worn down and then they don't make as good contact over time. Thank you!
This is an example of when a Dremel tool is worth it’s weight in gold… Also, Walmart has a hyper tough version of a Dremel that works great but cost less at just over $20. I got one, and then went back and got another one so when can always be charged. They come with a generous assortment of “bits”, but check out the mind-boggling assortments you can find on Banggood..
BTW, there often is a lock ring on the base of the motor shaft that you have to remove before you can get the cover plate off the timer housing. If you don't have tiny lockring pliers, then it will take some patience and creativity with a small flat screwdriver and small pliers to spread the lockring apart enough to remove without damaging it.
Yep I could not repeat your excellent instructions my timer contacts were obliterated I could only get a noise with my finger, so I could not leave my finger in there lol! Had to spend the bucks! Yep timer replace dryer works fine!
@@SkateboardingIsFuns It never ends now checking tells me door switch has bit the dust got to wait for it to come in Birmingham parts are very special they want installation prices here so Amazon 2 day del. I must wait! Little lever has click never more, never more lol!
***** I couldn't get to flat metal piece like you to file it so i just bent the prong A metal piece so that it touches when the other flat pieces touches it giving connection. A simple process but knew it was the timer at some point but just didn't think because i thought it was something much more complex like the fuse, sensors or heat element when they all worked, Thanks :).
Great Video. my dryer stops when it's supposed to go into cool down. If I pull up on the timer knob it starts right up and usually finishes the cycle. I'm hoping it is a contact problem, we will see
Yea and helped out so much I rebuild car trucks but would have never guessed a timer its like a computer in a car I seems if it goes bad nothing works right
A lot of people don't realize how easy it is to fix these vs replacing them. It takes less than 10 minutes to fix in most cases. Why go out and buy another one or wait for one to come in the mail when you can just fix the part itself.
drumbyte I suspect the cams that open and close the contacts get worn and the contact points don’t fit together as firmly as they should as one reason they get this way. I have also seen cams come completely loose and not open and close the contacts. I usually bend the contact arm just a little bit to make sure they have good contact when the close in case the contact point itself is burned down or the cam is a little worn.
Took my timer apart. A couple of observations, the center part of the timer where the knob mounts to doesn't just come right out it takes a little pulling and wiggling. Getting it back in (not included in this video ) is a little tricky. If you aren't careful you could possibly bend one of the copper arms which would cause them not to contact the other arm properly. I did find my problem. On the very end of each one of the copper arms there is a little copper knubb that meets the one on the other arm to make the connection. One of the knubbs broke off, I thought I was screwed. I adjusted the one arm to get a better contact and it seems to be working, fingers crossed.
If the contacts are burned down to the copper blades, I would consider this a temporary fix. I have a dryer that I cleaned the blades off where they had almost burned down to the copper blades. I also bent one of the blades a little so the twon woyld make contact. That being said, I will not sell this dryer for fear the copper blades will fuse together and not let the heat circuit seperate thereby causing the heat to not turn off. Might be a fire hazard.
@@Whiteboardcoder I did remove a couple of blades with better contact points from another timer and replaced the bad ones. Not sure I should have done that, but I feel better about it now. I wish I knew where we could buy timer PARTS to refurbish timers with! People that rebuild these things have to have a source for the parts, right? This may very well depend on volume though.
There is a centrifugal switch in the dryers blower motor , if the timers heat contacts welded together and the cycle ended the motor would stop and that protective switch would cut the current to the heater as well this design ensures that if the blower does not come up to speed the heater wont receive power there is also a high limit thermal safety fuse on the heater as well that blows cutting the heater power if all else fails and most newer dryers also have a switch that halts the dryer if the drum belt breaks
@@allrock1238 good point in regards to the centrifigal switch, but I have seen control panels with quite a bit of lint buildup too. Just being cautious. Good point though.
No one takes into consideration that there is a steel vent pipe going out from the dryer and through the wall to the outside. If you pull the dryer out to work on the back it is almost impossible to re-connect the vent pipe.
I forgot to take pictures to know how the timer looked like to make reassembling the time possible. I can’t align the knob correctly with the correct cycles. Could you add the reassembling of the timer?
Continueity 😂 Love it! Great video! My timer doesn’t self advance when it’s in automatic. Do you know off hand what the problem could be? Wiring Diagram is a little lacking.
Thanks for your video. I have the same timer and found that T-W never contacted each other at all. I opened the box and leaned the notch of T terminal ripped off completely. So, T never reached to W position. I bent W a little closer to T. Now, It is working fine. But I am wondering if it may start not working soon. I want to put something between behind W and the box wall to avoid W returns to the original position. The material should not catch the fire. Can you give me a good advice for my situation? Thanks in advance.
Cleaned the motor contact points replaced fuses and heating element, cleaned the ducts from debri, lol i have no choice but timer the dryer keeps overheating and blowing fuses will try advise thank you.
None of my contacts were scorched. It looks brand new inside. On Auto Dry, (which is what we normally use) ... My timer moves along fine but when it gets done drying, the timer won't click to the off position? Even when I turn it to off, it continues clicking. Also, the heat is set to low but is HOT HOT. And when the knob gets to the point where it should be cooling down (at the *) it stays scalding hot. Any ideas? Thanks FYI: All lint is clear, I've clean all intakes and removed all accumulated debris and made sure vent to outside is clear.
