The dryer would spin, but the heat was working intermittently. Then one day, the heat completely quit working. This video shows how this part works, how to troubleshoot it, then repair it. In the end, we saved this owner about $80.
Not sure what I was thinking, but the timer motor is an actual electric motor. The two wires going into it is what powers the electric motor. It is not a mechanical motor. This was my very first RU-vid video, so I was really nervous. I believe that is why my mind went astray when explaining the motor. I apologize for the confusion. I thank all of you for watching and providing your comments.
Dude! I never thought I wanted to tussle with a timer until I saw this video. You made me think I could do it, and I did! I fixed the heating issue with my Whirlpool Centennial and I could not be more pleased. Thank you for giving me a sense of accomplishment!
I was able to watch you take apart the same timer I have in my dryer, and becuase of that I was able to get in there and clean the terminals that had been arcing, and now she works great. Thanks for your video, saved me $80-150 and took less then 20 minutes start to finish. Thanks again, keep it up!
Hello, let me tell you what happend with my dryer. The dryer was in standby for 4 years, before yesterday I took some minutes to watch some videos about how the repair the dryer. Videos about cheking the sensors and all of them are OK, and after that I thought "maybe the timer is wrong .. " and I opened it, I unassemblied it. I watched next videos and I check the door sensor and it was broken, I replaced and then the timer come back a live, but not al 100%. Yesterday I found your video and I saw the configuration of the gears, and I took a frame. Now my dryer is working, heating and drying, it's alive. Thanks so much from Yucatán, Mexico.
Here's the crazy thing about the repair on my estate dryer I have never worked on any kind of appliance at all and thanks to this video I was able to fix the problem but the crazy thing is the lady that I bought the washer and dryer off of told me that the dryer was inspected by an appliance technician and the appliance technician told her that the dryer cannot be fixed and here I am a guy who's never done any kind of repair or maintenance on any kind of dryer and I was able to fix it thanks to this video so thank you for that
That's Awesome! Many repair companies will tell you something can't be fixed then try to sell you another unit. Or, they will try to sell you a new timer for $80. Also, remember, some techs are just too lazy to troubleshoot it. There is not many courses that teach you this skill, so there's a lot of mis-diagnosis going on.
Wow!!! I have the same setup and I didn't get continuity on the very same one on the video. Worked to perfection and you saved me $80 my friend. A big thank you!!!
I own an appliance business and have done scores of these repairs, you should mark the position of the wheel with a sharpie so you know that its all in the right place. The silver round thing is the timer Motor, which will cycle on and off during drying cycles. The problem is always contacts A and C which are live contacts. They are marked underneath on the black plastic. If you are confident enough you can tap the legs out with a hammer and file the contact and put a small amount of solder on the contact to make a dome, some times the contacts are so corroded/burnt that you will have to add solder. You can buy a set of hobby files really cheap at Harbor F stores. Great video
Indeed. Sometimes the contacts are so fried. In the scheme of things for whatever it is worth, I have also implemented a rather worthy add on. Right behind that contact "A" which I think it is the first one against the right wall that the gentleman says gets bent, I put in a dab of resiliant foam padding and it doesn't take much if you know what I mean. It is a concept that had given me rather reliable result, an extra measure knowing that it won't cop an attitude after only certain number of miles ahead. And while I am at it, it should really be known that this particular timer breed is the worst of them all in my experience. They are toast while the dryer is still just about show room condition. Courtesy of Whirlpool, many of these breeds been installed in many different dryers having different face names. When I look at anything, the first thing that cross my mind is just what is wrong with the design. Here I stop before I end up writing an encylopedia. In the meantime, check out my latest video I have done, solving the $150-$200 cost of bearing alone in them Fisher and Paykel dryers. They are rather serious machines. I had to make a video and you will understand why. A far superior solution for barely $5 and 4 minutes worth of work. I will the judgement in your hands with respect to it.
Sorry, I just saw this. For some reason,I didn't get a notice about this comment. Thank you for the info. I see you and zi think the same when troubleshooting.
This is the one!! I watched several videos on finding the issue, but it wasn't til later that I saw 2 videos on how to fix one. The first one was good but had me filing the contacts with a nail file for 15 minutes..still couldn't get it to work. I was about to give up, but this video right here saved me $80 for the new part. Straightening that bar made a world of difference... thank you!!
I'm really happy it worked for you. When ever I troubleshoot something I will first look into the cause of the failure. That helps me know how to prevent further failures.
This video was very helpful I just took apart my timer on my estate dryer and it looked like it had the same issue that was shown in this video dryer is running hot now thanks so much for the tips on how to fix the timer this was the first time I tried fixing any kind of appliance and it was actually a lot easier than I thought it was going to be
Bingo, thank you so much. I got this dryer for free with my apartment, and it would be a total bear to get a new one up here and installed. This got me back up and running again.
I'm really glad it helped. I totally understand how much of a pain it is to get a dryer into an upstairs apartment. It's almost worth spending the kid's college funds to have someone else do it.
I took it apart before knowing what I was getting into. Thanks very much for this great video that helped me put it back together. I had to do my own repair to one of the dials, but this video gave me the assistance to get the job done. Love the feeling of fixing what most would just replace, if they could even figure out what’s wrong in the first place. Thank you for your time and effort.
Thank you very much for the complement. Being able to repair something, myself, gives me a great sense of accomplishment. Especially when it ends up saving me a lot of money.
This was the solution that worked for me! My kenmore had intermittent no heat, and some of the pins had no continuity, cleaned the points and it works again!
Thanks man I'll be doing this tomorrow morning. You make this look easy and yes my estate has a heat problem also. Plus I'll be shop vacuuming out the dirt too .
@@wutupclegg6618 hello I did this earlier today and filed off the pitting, there very little. It's working fine but the heat is not as hot . I'm waiting for the complete package coming on Wednesday
@@DFox-ud3gx What package are you waiting for? Sorry for the late reply. As for not getting as hot, a couple friends of mine had the same issue. I traced it to the motor. These units don't have circuit boards. Everything goes to the motor. Swapped out the motor and it worked fine. The other one was a bad heating element.
In my case I simply removed the timer (the round disk) and it works perfectly. The button was very hard because the white gear of the timer barely moved and therefore did not make contact. No matter how much I scraped the terminals, it was still the same. Now it works perfectly, but without the timer.
The two wires going to the motor you removed are the lines that supply voltage to the motor. They are not for any sensor. If there is no voltage to these wires, your timer will not work.
Yes sir! You are absolutely correct. As I mentioned in Another comment, I don't know why I said what I did. I didn't realize the mistake until after I posted the video.
Hey good day and we have a dryer that's up and running again ,.After a lot of cursing that switch I pulled out the circuit board tested it for continuity the resistors where ok and all pathways had continuity so not the the circuit board (my resistors where about 2-4 ohms ) they wont show continuity , next I pulled the temperature switch since my models like 25yrs old its push button in a vertical line ( delicate , med , regular ) when removing it I thought I had broken a resistor connection from one circuit to another on the neutral wire (the white one ) took the switch apart had to be careful had little spring copper connector didn't pop out but had to be careful all seemed too be fine no burn marks or anything else so putt all that back together reattaching the resistor and whata know it now works it was a broken wire on the temp switch , so after all that I can pretty much rebuild a gas dryer lol thanks for your assistance . hoeman793
@@wutupclegg6618 yes, i want to learn how to fix washers and dryers for a living.that's so cool to know that you are also a pinoy sir! Keep up the good work. Mabuhay!!
@@soypinoy5251 I wish you great success in your adventure. Take a look at my refrigerator troubleshooting video as well as the dishwasher video. They might help you in the future.
I am not aware of an ambient thermostat. I know of high temp thermostats on dryers. Is this what you are referring to? High temp thermostats are easy to replace. What make and model is your dryer?
Hi, I have a timer like that for a Whirlpool dryer (230 VA). The knob is broken and it sweeps, then I have to rotate the center pin with a plier. how can I identify which is the start position or zero position of the knob? I mean the start position of the central pin since the knob is broken. Thanks for any help
@@wutupclegg6618 Thanks for answering. The issue is that the central plastic shaft broke and the central pin (steel nail) is visible. I assumed that by uncovering the timer there would be a way to identify the starting position of the internal plastic piece that rotates
@@MeTube2014 the other route would be to take it apart and see which leads touch when you turn the needle. When all contacts are touching, that's the timed mode.
Yes. You are correct. After watching the video, I noticed a couple mistakes. I already made the repair, so I couldn't remake the video unless I broke it again. Also, I felt the mistakes did not distract from the actual purpose of the video. I really do appreciate the input you provided.
Hey so I tried wiring the lead to each other and got continuous flame let it burn about 70 secs or so . im going on the fact it would not burn that long before and must be defective even though there is continuity through it ordered a replacement will let u know how this turns out . In a related matter anyone going to do this experiment make sure the wires are NOT touching the burn tube taped wirers where fine plastic wire coating not so much melt through and blew breaker fuse no harm but if running just fuses would have had to replace
Question i have a amana gas dryer the heat was stuck on low and when the people came to diagnose the problem they started messing with my timer and now i have no heat or flame at all the part is like 200 dollars !!! Would this benin the realm of solving my problem ??
does the timer make and break current to coils on gas valve as well? i replaced my coils for gas valve thinking they were bad but i still seem to be stuck in low fire on burner. glow starts flame then glow shuts off after flame is established but flame is no where near hot enough to dry clothes but that flame stays on the whole time. i checked all fuses and thermostats in back and everything has continuity and because glow starts and starts low flame then shuts off i'm assuming flame sensor is good. the only thing i did not actually test for continuity is the flame sensor and timer ....
Hello AnyWho. A low flame can be caused by a few different things. I have seen bad pressure valves, obstructed gas venturis, and a clogged exhaust vent. It could also be a bad heat thermal fuse. The timer will only open and close the solenoids. It doesn't really have control over size of the flame. I hope this helps.
@@wutupclegg6618 based on your reply i went back in dryer and stuck a thin tubing brush in thru the air vent for venturis tube untill it came out the burner side, then i took a bent paper clip and using a mirror i stuck it in orifice for gas valve cuz i noticed white coating in hole orifice then lightly hit valve itself a few times with a wrench just for hell off it in case valve was stuck. then monetarily turned it on before putting anything back together and to my surprise the flame was much-much bigger!! so i then shut it down and buttoned everything up and tested it a few times and the flame stayed bigger and i had noticeable heat. not sure if cleaning did the trick or hitting it with wrench but it seems fixed for now. ill keep my eye on it to see if it acts up again. I'm really relieved i didn't have to buy more parts, the burner assembly itself is like $200-$300 from what i saw online ... -> thanks again
Hey thanks for getting back so fast. tried to reply in my area wouldn't let me ? , anyway the flame sensor ( on the side of burn tube making sure we are on the same page and im not miss understanding ) has continuity , so could it still be faulty and should there be continuity in the temp selector and the moisture sensors either when the machine is off or on because neither have this
The moisture sensor should only have continuity if the clothes are wet or the two moisture sensor rings are shorted. However, I don't believe that is the issue. The Temp selector should show some continuity as you turn the dial. Each setting will have a different ohm reading, depending on what style dryer you have. Have you tried testing your high limit switch? If your flame sensor is getting continuity, then it is working. Have you tried testing your high limit switch? That would be my second guess. This is easy to test. Unplug both wires, to the switch, and tape the two wire ends together. Make sure they will not touch metal. Run your dryer and see if the flame stays on longer. I wouldn't go too much longer because you could over heat stuff. and cause damage.
Ok changed sensor no change so I got the mother board or gas vale but i had lots of gas when i by passed the hi temp sensor sone ill have a new dryer lol . ill keep up to date .
That is very strange. You bypassed the switch and it worked. You put in another switch and it doesn't work. Could you have received a bad switch? Does the flame ever come back on with the new switch?
Hey dude. I'm getting no tone when I touch that last bar to either the first or second bar. The first and second bar makes a tone. The connections look clean and it looks like it's making a connection. I found a nail file and filed both sides of the connector on both bars. The bars on the opposite side from the ones you were working on also have tone. Could it be that the last bar is not supposed to have a tone, or on the other hand, the timer has gone bad at a circuit level and I'm going to need to buy a new timer? Your timer and my timer are virtually identical. Thanks!
What's up Squirrel. If you you turn the knob to the "timer" position, the last bar should make contact. If not, follow the video to see how to bend it straight. Due to wear, you might have to bend it a little further until it touches.
@@wutupclegg6618 Dude you rock! Right after I commented I went in and bent that last bar really far to make sure it would connect. I also made sure those connections were shiny and clean. I tested it with the multimeter like you said, and got connections across the three pieces of brass. Finances are really tight for me right now and I was dreading having to buy a new dryer because the one I have is probably 20 years old according to a tech that looked at it. He said it might be the timer but didn't test it. A new timer was anywhere between $26 (for one that looked pretty rusty and was pulled from another unit) to $80 for a OEM. I was looking at replacing the flame sensor and igniter before I saw the videos on examining the timer. Yours was the only one that talked about bending that last bar to make sure it's straight and connects. I had already spent like 4 hours inside the dryer replacing all kinds of things (I hadn't done any maintenance since I bought it used off another guy many years ago). Putting that belt back on was a freaking bear, and I wasn't looking forward to taking everything apart to test those other things with a multimeter. Anyway, thanks again. You're an angel that earned his wings! :)
Crap man, spoke too soon. It worked the first time and now it's not heating again. I'll check those contacts again. If they aren't working, then at least I'm pretty sure the timer can't be fixed and I should try getting another one to see if that does the trick. If it's still working, I'm going to check the flame sensor and igniter next.
Holy sh$&! I followed your video step by step and fixed my dryer ! Haha woohoo! . One question though. Is it a temporary fix till I go ahead and purchase a new timer ? Or do you think it’ll be alright ?
Hey good video ,good stuff got question , tried calling Maytag for some answers but they don't like too share , they want the Maytag man busy lol . so I've got a Maytag intellidry 1997 0r 98 model , igniter lights gas comes on 20secs later burns for 35-40secs shuts off , comes back on 45-60secs after that shuts off 20secs later . changed the gas cellinodes even changed operating thermostat though there was continuity except for the cross circuit . Radiant flame , hi temp thermo , fuse all have continuity . my dryer has a three push button temp control , moisture monitor ,as well as the timer knob . should there be continuity between the connections on these , by this i mean from one terminal to the other on each control ie the temp control and the moisture sensor ,Watched a lot of videos no one goes further than continuity testing the easy stuff , hoping you got an answer thanks R J
That is the exact symptoms of a bad flame sensor. Have you replaced that? The manufacturer will almost never want to help out the customers. They make too much money on service and parts.
When you turn the knob to choose a drying cycle, you are actually setting the dial to a specific time for the dryer to run. That knob you are turning is called the timer. The timer motor will turn the dial to the off position while counting down.
@@wutupclegg6618 Thanks for the answer. I agree. I said for example inside a Speed Queen super 20, coin machine, it has 2 timers inside, one is for do the cicle of loundry and other that is near it is colled reverse timer, - Reversing Timer Super 20/Super II, for Speed Queen P/N: 81615 81615P. This is the number of tha kind of timers. What can it do?
@@rayner1guerra Hello Rayner. It has been over 10 years since I have worked on a commercial grade dryer. If I remember right, one knob controls what type of drying you want, which depends on the fabric you are drying. The other, which is the reverse timer, is how long you want it to dry for.
What about the arm below the one you took out? I opened mine up and the arm fell out but I only found 1 the one you’re working on in the video. It’s a brand new whirlpool drier wgd4950hw. I put it back together it’s runs but won’t shut down. Any insight would 🙏🏼 thanks for your time
It sounds like you may have forgotten to plug the timer motor back in, The timer motor is the round sliver part that is screwed onto the box. There should be a 2-pin plug that plugs into it.
@@wutupclegg6618 the silver timer I unscrewed and one arm fell out. I think I put the arm back in it’s proper place. It runs but won’t shut off and the dial only out out heat on “automatic dry” side
@@cinco10 Your unit is a little different than mine. I have not had the chance to open the one you have. You might only have 2 arms in it. I'm guessing your are referring to the white plastic arms. Check your copper contacts and make sure they are not sticking together. If you bend the tab too far, it will make constant contact.
@@wutupclegg6618 yeS mind different the arms are black. I’ll keep toying with it. How do line up the dial properly so the minutes are correct. Mine runs heat but on the fluff side.
@@Xx_eeveemocha_xX It has a different design, but they work exactly the same way. Just be careful when taking it apart. Sometimes, contacts and other parts will fall out of place as you remove the lid.
