Test and repair a clothes dryer switch 

Best fix for the switch, in this marvelous how-to. #1 - by far. I'd like to invite you, Dustin, to join me for the beverage of your choice. You earned it. Multiple beverages, if you like. Saved me, at least, 85 bucks. Clear instruction and a logical progression of your simple diagnostics and repair. Outstanding, Sir! Forget about the blob of solder technique, demonstrated by a Johnny-come-lately. This video is a fine example of the theorem, "If you can't fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem." Best of all, most importantly, my Gal is happy. However, after she calmed down, I explained that the feather in my fixed-it bonnet, is due to your instruction. Still, I reaped the reward, and I can't stress enough, how thankful I am for your time and knowledge.

This video helped me fix our intermittent heating issue on our gas dryer! Found out it was the timer because when I wiggled the knob in the right spot, I was able to see the igniter light up and heard the flame going. I never realized how simple these switches were. Thank you!

First off, just wanted to thank you for helping fix my timer. For added information to help anyone in this thread, I had TWO issues. There was arcing between a few of the switches which created a bad connection AND a slightly - I mean ever so slightly - poor connection. Subtly bending the metal of the switch and sanding the corrosion away with a nail file did the trick. However, my timer still was not advancing. Ultimately, it was the cycling thermostat. The cycling thermostat tested for continuity at room temperature and 'seemed' to switch off near 153 degrees Fahrenheit (which was the manufactured temperature rating). I came across some information that testing the cycling thermostat alone for continuity alone wouldn't yield the part defective/non-defective and that a non-properly functioning cycling thermostat may leave the drum too hot. I asked the girlfriend if she noticed the clothes were super hot and she said, "Yes!". Changed out the cycling thermostat and I'm good to go. Hope this helps you other DIY-ers out there and thanks again Dustin!

Dustin - I literally created this account to go back and thank all of the amazing people over the years...who have not only taught me, but saved me thousands of dollars - you are an unsung hero my friend. In a small effort to give back - if you are troubleshooting a dryer which refuses to heat, but the motor still fires up - it can be really difficult until you have a multimeter that measures continuity with an audible signal. I think everyone has that CenTech that measures Ohms (not knocking it - I've used it MANY times). Problem is, well, you just need a beep for continuity, and I just went and bought the Ames CM600A from Harbor Freight. No - this is not an advertisement, just my personal experience. Once I was able to isolate the thermostat, the fuses, and the heating element as good electrically by a simple beep for about $50 - I focused on the timer switch - tested for continuity across the points, and knew that was the problem. Just from my experience - when you open the timer switch - pay careful attention to where the switch is located on the dial when you take it apart. There are an array of gears and contacts that need to line back up. This is not to keep you from the repair - just keep it in mind as you take it apart (and to put it back together again). If the timer switch is indeed the culprit - you will see it almost immediately - there will be charred contacts on the copper circuits which should be clean. You may need a flashlight or a bright light source to see the charcoaled/blackened contacts - what I did, was use a mix of fine files and fine sandpaper (available for very little cost at Harbor Freight). I know, I sound like a HF fanboy, but for stuff that I've mentioned - well worth the savings. Again - saved me a lot of money - thank you Dustin - incredibly appreciated!

7 years later your video helped. Dryer was acting up and followed your videos. Contacts on the timer. Thanks a ton. Leaving for vacation Friday and didn't want this hanging over my head.

Thanks, Dustin! I had been trying to repair my dryer all weekend and this was my exact problem. It helped to see how you both diagnosed and repaired it. It's so nice to not have my unmentionables drying on the kitchen rail anymore. ;-) We were about ready to throw in the towel and buy a new dryer so you just saved me hundreds of dollars.

Maaaaannnn.... I had no heat on my dryer for maybe 1 1/2 months! I looked at this video n did exactly what you did with a multimeter for continuity on each setting and noticed 1 lil prong was making 0 contact on any setting n just bent it slightly to make contact! That was IT! Thank you so much! I saved $60-135.00 on that! Wife is very happy! Rock on man!

This is the last step I need to get my dryer going. Saved me 80 bucks. Thanks for posting your video.

Thank you so much for this video! My problem wasn't exactly the same, but your teardown video helped diagnose the problem. A plastic piece on the rings that pushes the plastic tabs to complete the electrical connections had broke and I was able to fix that and get my dryer working again at zero cost!

I've gotta tell you, man, you just saved my husband and me a bunch of money!!! And made me feel very proud to have fixed our dryer's timer after a repairman told us it'd be better to buy a new dryer rather than a new timer since our Roper is at least 10 years old. Although the problem you demonstrated wasn't what vexed our timer, your video showed me what the inside of the timer should look like, so I was able to figure out that the positioning of the cogs on the spindle was incorrect (must have been a construction error!) so the contacts weren't closing appropriately. How cool was that to discover the problem and correct it!

this was a estate dryer would only run at all on low I am 60+ and you just gave me good lesson on schematics

Not sure if I left a comment last time, but I just used this video to literally repair the exact same problem again. I have it saved now for when this damn switch inevitably does this again. Regardless, Thank you AGAIN so much. This video has saved me a total of at least $160 bucks by now. I can't imagine what the grand total of cost savings is that you've provided to everyone who has used this video, but it's gotta be in the thousands, if not 10s of thousands when you consider that people will often use it as an excuse (or just think they need) to get a new appliance. My sincerest appreciation. -Ian

Thank you so much for posting this video. I had already done all the continuity tests for all the other electrical components and determined our heating element was blown. Fixed that and still nothing. Stumbled upon another video that clued me into cleaning the copper connectors but still nothing. Found your video and with the continuity tests on just the timer itself I was able to figure out what was causing the issue. Quite a process but with your help I got it done and our dryer is working again. Thank you!

Mine was a faulty timer too, open circuit in the two big wires on the timer when in a heated position on the knob. Part number for timer was w10185982, but I removed the screws out the back and cleaned the contacts in the switch and fixed it for free saving me an $80 switch or buying a whole new dryer for $300+ which I had been considering. Whole process took under an hour with a lot of distractions. Thanks so much! Got out of bed at 2am to try this and it works now!!!?

Wow I cant thank you enough, I was about to spend 140 dollars on a new timer when it was literally the contact was just stuck in place. Simple fix, saved so much money. Thank you!

I realize this vid is 7 yrs old but it was exactly what I needed tonight and wanted to say thx

replaced fuse, thermostat, and start switch (all under $10 total, but still, time!) still no luck. Then found this video...and seeing how the "pins" (no electrical knowledge) need to align in the timer motor, I tinkered just as you did until they all made the proper contacts, popped it back in, and WAAAAAAABOOOOM! dryer works! It is 1145pm, so after getting the dryer to work after a week of troubleshooting and ordering parts, etc., I woke up my wife to tell her the good news! Thanks for the video!

I just did this yesterday. In addition to the steps here, I took a razor blade and shaved off a mm or so on the right side of the "stopper so the far right contact could have a better connection to the contact just to the left of it. 0.00 Ohms of resistance. Installed and worked great!

Fixed the timer by following your instructions and filed down the contacts. I slipped up and the timer fell apart in my hands but somehow went back together again and works. My dryer is fixed. Thank you, thank you, thank you. My issue was the heat worked once and awhile, and only on medium. Finally, it didn't heat at all. Now it works on High, Med, and Low. It was the connection between the A and the C just like in the video.

This was awesome. I went from knowing nothing about dryers/ electronics, to knowing everything there is to know (well, maybe that's a bit of an exaggeration). But it's fixed! Thank you!

Thank you, man. Took mine apart, cleaned the burnt contacts, and saved myself a trip to the store.

just fixed our dryer using this video! Thank you! slightly different Invensys timer on a Whirlpool but exact same problem with the same contact. Everything on my dryer tested good for continuity and ohms. Thermostats, fuses, element, start switch, hi med lo selector, motor, door switch, exhaust flow. . . all good. I was stumped and at a loss until I found this! Probably looking to hard for a problem but still wouldn't have known what to do if Id found the problem other than order a new one! I was about to start throwing parts at it which would have been a waste of time and money. Great video!

Fixed my timer, the gears came loose and I had to fix them. You saved me 60 bucks for a new one. Thanks.

A small simple screwdriver does sufficed the job. Different dryer but same component and same contact. Appreciate the video and I'll gladly have friends watch if any other issues arise like this. Thanks again.

Thanks a million! Contacts were stuck together causing the dryer to not turn off at the end of the cycle. Very simple fix with a little sandpaper. 15 minutes later and it is back together and working.

Thankyou a million bro....! I spent almost an hour testing and retesting components only to find out that the flexible tab to the right of the switch wasn't making contact .

This is great... thanks! I had the very same issue with the very same timer, and my temporary solution was to wedge a piece of tin foil in there between the A contact bar and the adjacent post. Never thought of just bending the bar a little bit... thanks!

Thank you very much for posting this video, Had the same problem, no continuity between A and C. Cleaned with sand paper and bent the A, seems to be working for now. Saved me big bucks. You are the man!

Exactly the same issue. You just saved me $100. Thank you SO much!

Dustin you just saved me a 100 bucks. This was exactly what was wrong with my dyer. Thank you so much. The wife is drying our close as I post this. LOL God Bless.

OMG I LOVE YOU! You just saved me $300. ($100 for parts, $100 for service call, and maybe another $100 for labor). YOU ARE AWESOME. I also learned once you take off the cover.. DO NOT turn the thing upside down unless you are holding all the pieces in place :( The other issue my switch had was the very bottom ring came loose - because people were turning the knob left (counter clockwise). Took a little while to find the right way to get the bottom ring in place again but hey, I never would have tried if not for your AWESOME VIDEO. My Roper/Whirlpool dryer has now been fixed - by me - 3 times for 3 different problems. :) People like you should be more common!

Dustin Rogers I can't thank you enough for this video! Good information and well said. Thank you, from the Glass Family.

Wanted to say thank you! Had a bad timer but was able to open it up and clean the contacts. Everything works perfectly and all with no money spent!!

Thanks Dustin for a lesson on fixing my dryer. My connection with the C to A was poor. So I rigged it to work till I order a new hole switch.

Thanks for the video. I was about to order a new timer, but it was the exact same issue you had where the contact between CA was not making connection, cleaned up the contacts and did the slight bend, works great now.

Great video insight to save some $$$. I had a switch on my Kenmore 400 i bought used. Lady said it wouldnt dry on one setting. When I opened it up, there is was....corrosion from an arch. Filed it down, checked continuity and BAM! Thanks for the great video post!

Oh my god thank you so much for your instruction was going nuts trying to figure out what was wrong with our dryer and thank you for saving us 85 to 100 dollars

This video was very helpful. My symptoms started with dryer only working on some settings. It got worse. Eventually no heat at all. Replaced all fuses, and heating element tested fine. Still no heat. Pulled timer off to test. Had no reading between C and A contacts. C to B worked fine. Was able to file it some between the b/a sides to get a better connection. After filing re-tested C to A and was getting a reading on the multimeter. Now the dryer heats again. Thank you

Great video ... you described the problem with my timer exactly and how to fix it including prying the contact with a screw driver ... many thanks !!!

Great video very helpful. These contact points work much like the points in automobiles in the 1960s. I accidentally dumped the plastic gear drive disc out and had to put it all back together but it is all working now.

Every once in a while you run into the perfect solution! I sure did! Top notch video. Many thanks!

Thank you so much for making this video! Your step by step instructions helped me save my dryer 🙂

Thanks so much for this video. I was getting really frustrated testing everything. I was excited once I figured out it was the timer switch, then frustrated again when I saw it was $130 for the part. Then I found this video and it was just the cost of time. Thanks again!

Great video, I'm a tech. I remembered about 8 years ago was working on a dryer. It had a bad timer. Nothing, but i did just that. I usually use a small needle nose to slightly bend. A set of flat file works great. Good job

I had the same issue on a identical timer as yours. No continuity between "A" and "C". Thank you for this vid, you just saved me $90.

I tried replacing every thermostat on back even though they checked out O.K.. Dryer got to where it'd take longer and longer to dry clothes. It was not heating as good either, then finally wouldn't heat at all. I then checked the motor switch, I cleaned and lubed it, but that wasn't the problem. After watching this guy's video, I checked my timer switch and discovered that it was faulty. I took it apart and two contacts were burnt so bad that part of each contact had burnt away. I cleaned what was left and bent them so they'd make contact when the timer was turned. It works! For how long is anybody's guess, but it is working for now!!!

Tonight we started a load of clothes to dry before we left for dinner. Two hours later we returned home and our dryer was still running. It continued past the setting we had put it on, i was thinking it has to be the timer so i got on you tube and searched for 'dryer timer repair' watched your video and got to work! I have the same timer in my Kenmore machine. i removed it, tested it, when testing continuity between the A and B terminal,A and B would always show 'closed'. upon opening the timer i could see that the contacts were shorted due to arcing, it didn't take much effort to separate them. after filing i installed the timer and so far it is working correctly! thanks for a great how to video!

Dustin, many thanks! Your expert instruction resuscitated our dryer saved me some cash.

3 thumbs down? this video just saved me $$$. I had changed the heating element and thermo fuse. Still no heat. Saw somewhere about the switch might be bad. Searched on RU-vid and found this! I jumped to about 7 minutes where the plate was taken off and copper tip was brushed. 20 min max fix!

I can't express how thankful I am for this video. It absolutely saved my family so much stress and frustration, and of course at least $100. Thank you, thank you, thank you! Happy Holidays!

fixed my dryer thanks to you☺ ty for this!!!!!!

this is charlie in the mo.ozarks just fixed mine 3 mins after the kids left for the laundry mat lol. i had to bend that tab over .also i found the dryer cord wires werent tite maye some of the arc problems thanks. charlie

thank you so much. I watchedyour video and I was able to fix my timer without buying a new one. Two contact points were bad and I followed your instruction and now I'm not buying a timer or a dryer like my wife wanted to...

awesome i did exactly what was instructed got a file and copper areas cleaned and now my dryer is heating like new. saved me funds my friend thx sincerely

Thank you for taking the time and effort to create this video. You just saved me a lot of money (a lot to me anyway!). Thank you so much.

I have repaired these the same way basically. But since I am concerned about the contact blade losing it resistance to heat and or the flexibiltiy properties from overheating due to power surge, arcing, wear from so much use, etc., next time I think I will try to file the plastic stop just a bit. Thinking this will allow the cleaned contacts to touch without having to do any bending of the blades which may not hold the bent shape. This is a somewhat common problem on this type of timer. Not knocking your video at all. It is a good informative video for the diy'er. Filing of the plastic stop is just a theory I intend to try as I work on several appliances and want the contacts to fit as flat as possible against one another. Again, good video. Thumbs up!

Dustin you are AWESOME for posting this. This worked great on my dryer. Where do we send our 80 bucks :) Not only are you saving people 80 bucks but you are also saving the planet from the additional waste. I have a load of wet laundry that I would have had to wait 2 days to get the part before drying but it is drying nicely right now THANKS to YOU.

Great video!! You're a true lifesaver, off work due to surgery and did not have the money to replace switch. Ohmed out all the sensors they were good. Checked motor switch, also ok. Took selector switch apart and there it was, arcing had pitted one of the contacts. Used a points file and fine sandpaper to clean it up. Kept testing until I was sure it would work. Hoping it will last awhile until I'm in a better spot to replace. Thanks again.

Thank thank thank you!!! None of the other videos showed this exact model! I really appreciate you making this video! It was so easy to fix!

thnx for the video! I did exactly what u did and now my dryer dries again.

Did the same thing to mine. Just bend it a little. I believe these are designed to fail. Great vid man.

You're the man! Thanks for the very specific video for our needs over here in Birmingham. Helped a lot!

Thanks for the video threw me on the right path. My switch wasn’t working but all of the contacts were clean. I hit everything with a cleaner and contact no dice. I noticed after messing with it I could turn it on only on low heat. After allot of back and forth I noticed the white gear all the way in the back had the little retaining clip broken and it just spun freely. Off to buy some crazy glue and hopefully that little tiny clip doesn’t cost me $90!

Thanks followed your directions when I got the timer apart I found the bottom Cog/actuator wheel was broken off fit it back comparing your pictures then used super glue to keep it in place ... put it back together and it works like a charm I will order new timer I dont trust super glue for long term repairs. Also found the same contactor issues you did. Thanks again. oh yeah the problem I was having dryer would not start.

In my case I simply removed the timer (the round disk) and it works perfectly. The button was very hard because the white gear of the timer barely moved and therefore did not make contact. No matter how much I scraped the terminals, it was still the same. Now it works perfectly, but without the timer. I agree with you about planned obsolescence, but this time it was the timer and not the terminals.

Mvp!! Thank you for taking the time to make this video.

you saved me $120 .... thank you and thanks for posting

Thanks for the useful video. With your assistance I, who is not very handy, fixed my dryer and saved me about eighty bucks

Very nice video. Well done and professional. As a technician I am always checking others video quality. This was awesome. Great job!

thanks so much, just saved myself a $80 service call and $80 part thanks to you!!!

Thank you for this! Had the same problem on an Amana dryer so you just saved me a bunch of dollars!

Thank you for saving me $105!! Worked perfectly!

a very well done video, it helps save money on crap that should have been made better, such as a washer timer. Over time arcing eventually leads to degrading the contacts no matter what, its just worse with a longer metal contacts vs. a shorter one. a shorter one provides better contact which slows the arcing down. After all we are dealing with a heater and a motor pulling a lot of amps plus the wear and tear.

Thanks!!!! Spent hours troubleshooting everything else and finally found your video. Awesome video. Thanks!

I wish I had watch this video before replacing my Dryer Timer, and pitching out the old (repairable) Timer. Well, now I know. Thanks for this video!

Excellent video. Had to bend the A contact slightly but fixed the issue.

I second the motion, your video saved my rear end. Appreciate you posting it. Thanks very much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

without your info on bending the copper arm towards the other contact I probably would have replaced it. Thanks for the good video.

Thanks for the video.That is exactly what happened to my dryer.It was a quick fix.YOU SAVED ME AT LEAST 100 BUCKS.THANK YOU SIR.

I've been fiddling with a broken-down dryer all day, and your video was exactly the knowledge I needed. Thank you!

I had this exact same problem (bad A circuit) Fixed it. Although my motor had another arm and a couple extra leads. It fell apart when I took it apart so I spent more time piecing it back together than fixing it! But thanks for this. You saved me some $$$. :)

thank you so much, this was perfect and I was able to save money by not ordering a new one, when I could diagnose mine and see exactly how it works

Thanks a ton Dustin! Totally would have wasted time and money on a new switch without this video. Your a bearded genius.

Your are the MAN!!!!!!!!!!!! Worked like a charm!! Thank you for saving me a bunch of money!!!!

Fixed the dryer and now my wife thinks I’m a genius. Thanks!

Thank you. But, I did have to wrap tape around the bottom white arm on the right so it would push the copper bands further to the right. There was a gap between the B contact and the A contact. I had to wrap the tape so the white arm would push the contacts further and close the gap. Then the A contact and C contact gave a beep with the multimeter. Thank you for your video. This video helped me twice. Once a year ago haha. I see my comment. I had the general idea from a year ago lol thanks.

Thank you for making this video! Very helpful. I lightly filed mine with 600 grit sandpaper. However, I can't help but wonder if this is just a symptom to a root cause. IE something is pulling too much of a load which is causing arcing of the contacts. I ohmed out my heating element, 10ohms which is correct. I'm also going to clean out my exhaust duct work, I'm wondering if the backpressure is causing too large of a load on the fan motor, then when the switch turns off that load is producing arcing

Have you tried using a disposable emery finger nail file? It is a thinner instrument that gives when placed between the contacts. The flat metal file may be putting much pressure on those brass springs, thereby causing them to loose tension, resulting in a minimal surface contact when they come together.

I just did the same fix thanks to this video. Thanks a thousand times.

Thanks just fixed my Amana dryer. I appreciate it💯

Excellent video Dustin keep up the good work great explanation and demonstration

Thank you very much for this video. fix my dryer problem.

the "arc" is welding. So the welding warped the tab preventing it from working. Good video ! In order to weld really thin pieces of metal you have to spread the points out and let it cool. If it happened quickly enough - someone spun the dial - and it arced twice - it would definitely warp that tab because it didn't cool. That's my guess as to how it happened.

Thank you so much you saved me $100. Had exactly the same problem but i fixed it

Great vid must be a factory defect. was working on mine all week everything checked ok and i found your vid was the exact same problem same contacts. thanks for the knowledge

Fixed it, happy wife = happy life, Thanks!!

Fantastic sir !! Thank you! Saved me a bunch of money and I learned something too. Thank you thank you.

Thank you for this. Just the kind of fix I needed/

I had to file down one contactor and it works perfect! Thanks

Your video is great. Very en-insightful thank you.