Fixed Panasonic 8 Blink TC-P50UT50 

Wow, thanks!

Absolutely! For plasma TVs proper grounding is essential.

Thank you

So we had tried to post different content regarding other devices but most people didn't understand what those devices were and didn't have as much interest. So we started a new channel called Nick's Electronics Repair which covers random electronics. We also have a different style with less editing there. You can check it out here: ru-vid.com/show-UCs_ALha5vs9lc0y-VeVrsyQ

@@NicksTVRepair Thanks for sharing! 🙌🔧 Do you have any exciting plans or projects in mind for Nick's Electronics Repair? 🛠📺 Looking forward to seeing more of your repair expertise in action! Keep up the great work on both channels! 👍✨

Well aside from just fixing more electronics I can't say I have other plans. We are going to keep fixing NAS devices, and Oven control boards as those are very popular and in high demand, but we are also trying to expand into more automotive repairs, and other appliances such as refrigerators, washers and dryers. Do you have anything specific you are looking for?

Thank you

So when it comes to his topic some of my techs will say that I am stubborn. So we have plenty of low-melt solder, but I do not use it because I don't believe it helps. Some of my techs disagree with me but it doesn't make sense to me. If I have high melt solder on a board, adding low melt solder to it won't all of a sudden lower the high melt solder's actual melting point. The melting point will still be high and I'll just have a bunch of liquid low-melt solder sitting on top of none molten high-melt solder. It's still going to require me to get to that high temp to remove the high temp solder. Adding flux to help the heat transfer from my solder tip to the high melt solder seems like a more efficient solution in my mind than using a larger solder iron tip. I probably should have used a better soldering iron tip perhaps. Let me know if you have any other info on this. I am open to changing my mind but so far it seems to be mostly opinions and prefferences for people that use it. I haven't really seen any concrete evidence that it really does help. Also to be clear I have a different stance on the leaded solder that I add in the video mostly because the leaded solder I add in the video has a rosin core aka flux. So by adding that solder im also adding flux. Really I should just have added only flux and didn't really need to add solder on that one joint.

@@NicksTVRepair I really like the reasoning you use, and since I'm not an expert on the subject at this moment, I think I'll do some tests with : 1- With Rosin and the desoldering wick only, 2- With flux and the desoldering wick only, 3- With low solder only, 4- With the soldering iron and the desoldering wickonly, just to see the differences. (That one will be awful) I'll share my results. Since low solder is more expensive, I'll have a better idea of the best method to follow at the lowest cost. I have some donor board to play with. Thanks

@NicksTVRepair : (Quick test results) > I've just noticed, with the low melt solder, that we need to increase the iron temperature so that the low melt solder mixes with the high melt. But what I've just noticed is that the low melt solter adds a property to the high melt that slows down the hardening process. It left me a few seconds to remove the piece without the soldering wick. Then, with flux and the soldering wick, I was able to clean all the parts without damaging the vias. That said, the vias are perfect (plus value), but it cost me low melting solder, flux and the soldering wick to clean them all up for the next piece. Another observation is that I kept the heat applied for longer periods on the vias in order to mix the 2 types of solder well, against less time, and in sequence, with flux or rozin and soldering wick. But with a little more difficulty in removing the piece. I also noticed that if the legs of the part were laying on the board rather than standing upright, I damaged a vias, whereas with the low-melt solder mix, I was able to remove the part without damaging it because of the few seconds it remained molten. As I've already said, I'm no expert, so I hope I've done the best that I could. Here are my first observations.

Wow that's awesome! Thanks for sharing these results Jean Marc!

not sure what you mean

​@@NicksTVRepairHe means " Awesome" The real word is "Jabardast" which means the way of saying the work is Better than the Best. I am From India and we use the word to appreciate the work.😅

@@shivasisdash7343 yes sir Zabar10 means =excellent . Short form excellent =funny means Zabar10

Well then excellent ! haha Thank you