Wheel hop when you are turning left or right, comes from the u joints on the front axle, behind the wheels, which are probably binding up. That is the nature of u joints. The u joints binding up gets more pronounced as the u joint begins to fail. Get them checked. Try not to do extreme turns and that will prolong their life. If the u joints have grease nipples, pump some grease in them at every oil change. Good video. Thanks.
Absolutely right about the rubberized undercoating causing more problems. What I have noticed is that applying FluidFilm on top of said coating causes it to soften up quite a bit and make it more like tar. I used a step bit to cut an access hole under the black scuff plate in the door jams to give me access with the 360° wand
Have you looked into the kickdown/TV cable adjustment yet? That should resolve your down shifting issue. If it doesn't then go with 4.10 gearing. It's as close to factory power and fuel economy as you'll get for those tires.
Several other people have commented about the kickdown cable and I haven’t looked at it yet but plan to. Would the difference of upgraded gears be worth the cost?
@@KCars depends, are you planning to off road or just use it for around the town? The gears you are at now will save you gas around town but you won't have a lot of power to do much. 4.10s will bring you back up to stock power and gas milage. Anything more than that would be overkill for a mall crawler. I'd start with the kickdown cable first and determine if you are ok with that. You may see a night and day difference. I know I did.
Jeeps coming together nicely. I would say they coulda ground and seam sealed their welds on the underside. Also they coulda blended their masking tape lines a little better for you or just painted the whole passenger side rocker. It wouldn’t of taken much more time and shouldn’t of cost much more if any. I do all my own work but would never call myself a professional but it’s the little things that make a professional shop a reputable shop.
Side note hit that rear unibody rail rust with some POR 15 (or similar product) paint. It can be brushed on and it reacts with rust and neutralizes it. You would have to wire brush off any of the major scaling rust but it would make it look a lot better I would do the whole unibody rail just bc it is black in color and would look more uniform.
Thanks! And I agree they could’ve done a better job which is why I ended up taking it back and having them fix some of the spots I wasn’t satisfied with. And true the underside could definitely use some more work
I have a 2001 XJ in need of major rust removal/repair. I live in Maryland about 1.5 hours from Morgantown. Can you tell me the name of the shop you used?
If you do most of your driving 'on road' I'd stick with the factory gears. Jeep looks great with the new metal work. I have a twin to your Cherokee. A 2001 Patriot Blue Cherokee Sport. No lift, though I may do 1" spacers. I'm never going to do any serious offroading but I may hit some country dirt and gravel roads from time to time so the extra clearance would be useful.
Ya I’ve heard that regearing for a 3 inch lift and 31s won’t make much of a difference. I think 1 inch spacers would look good and won’t be too much for what you want to do. Thanks for watching!
Great work I take mine on the beach religiously I need a fool proof plan to at least reduce it It’s inevitable w the salt water Just trying to slow it down Any suggestions? Or go about your method
Thanks! I’ve heard fluid film is the best way to go. That way you can still see where the rust is and you can clean it up and reapply as necessary. With other rubberized or paint undercoatings, they cover up the surface and any rust that could be forming so you don’t see it until it’s really bad
Thanks! It’s definitely a lot of work if you do it right. The steering ended up somehow fixing itself. I had a shop look at it just to make sure and all he found was loose sway bar end links
I found a Jeep for 500 bucks 300k miles and it looked pretty bad but the worst thing was the fact the catalytic converter for it was stolen so that would been an expensive fix
Nice XJ, how is the rust repair holding up? Those iner quarter panel repairs in the rear don't look the best but better than it was that's for sure. Also you think they would have cleaned up some of that rust a little bit more for the money you paid.
Thanks! It’s holding up alright. I think the rear lower quarter panels don’t matter too much since they are not visible from the outside and mostly just a structural point for the bumper end caps. So as long as it’s not rusty I’m good with it. And I agree I definitely was expecting a better result for the amount of money, thinking about taking it to a restoration shop and have the rust cleaned off and undercoated with truck bed liner to give it that black look. I got quoted $4000 for that though so I’m not sure
@@KCars you could do a good job yourself cleaning that up and coating it I wouldn't spend any more money at a restoration shop. I would look into Monstaliner, really good stuff for a DIY er!
Which screws are you referring to? They did put in a few new bolts that I noticed, the ones that hold on the bumper end caps and I think the fenders as well. They didn’t do anything to the wheel wells, what should they have finished? Total for everything was around $2400
@@KCars hey how are you I was referring to the Rusted screws in the sill plate you should replace them all with stainless screws this way they won't rust overall I guess it's a good job just they could have finished off the welds better and coated them with filler and then painted and also like you noted the rust on me Underside those cars are rust buckets I have one now where the gas tank fill out of it while I was driving debating whether to even fix it or not it's an 01 Grand Cherokee I do it myself though haha
