Should be holding that block with a wrench, probably why you're gonna be fixing it again soon. Can see the throat and block flex when you tighten it. Going to leak again.
Hotend leak cause by a nozzle gap. If all metal heat break is used, make sure it’s into your block far enough that your nozzle can’t sit flush with the block. If using Bowden, make sure the Bowden comes down past the throat tube and allows for the nozzle to place it under compression.
Had the same leak because of a broken heatbreak. And just by the looks of how he installes the nozzle with that big wrench with all the torque on the hotend it might be exactly that.
Hey I need some help pretty bad my ended 3 s1 was working perfect I opened the box set it up and printed the cat. When the print was done I clicked done the printer moved some and started cooling down whatever normal stuff but now the z is flashing ??? And won’t zero correctly it’s raised about 3 inches and won’t move down any lower yes I can manually move it down but the z offset is not working at all so I don’t really know what to do all cords are plugged in and the printer is brand new. I can’t find anything else online of someone with this issue
@@Antassium solvol is more reliably good in the quality coming from the factory but I’ve seen the work they can do and I have to say that it’s not great imo
@@ryangagnon5489 Got a wanhao d12/230 on special 2 color printing, wifi ,silent machine, filament detector, and happily runs 80-100mm/s pla. I think ive only really had to do minor adjustments 2-3 times on the bed leveling this year while it was printing.
Mine going back. I had over -5 back left, -2.45 front left, -1.4 front right, -4.4 back right. They sent new heat bed and Y-carriage which didnt solve it. Going BambuLab now. Creality had a good thing, unless they can improve and go forward, they will be left behind.
My ender 3 was in good shape. I'm willing to bet there is a bad batch out there. Someone in the assembly line musta been hung over or in a hurry. That will happen with anything though. I wouldn't write them off though. Give it some time for those bad batches to go away before they have better batches available. Idk how your going to check the manufacture date though.
My CR10 S5 took 2 weeks to get a first print on, being a total newb back then, I had a 2 week period even before that where TinyRobots (whom I bought it from and didn't check to see it was totally updated, then messed me around for almost 2 weeks, and was seriously rude about it all) wasted a couple weeks by not checking it before it went out and had to send me a new motherboard for it right off the jump.. my experience with Creality hasn't changed up to this year buying the Ender 3 S1 pro. Crealities CoreXY up till the point Bambu released what they did was the Ender 5.. they were not trying to make things better for anyone. @@Wub892
I did the same, after having heavy trouble with first layer adhesion and wasn't able to level the bed properly. Also added BTT Mainboard, which is much nicer for my old Ender 3 pro.
@@dcolon9822I printed a new mount for the z-stop switch, which allowed me to mount then-stop switch just above the lowest possible bed position. I later add BLTouch, which complicated bed leveling as now I have to lower bed all the way, then raise a full turn of the screws, then run the home all, and re-level the bed. The BLTouch mod lends the bed to drifting upwards if you don’t reset to lowest position every so often.
This was every other day with my regular s1 my heating block wasn't tight. Eventually took the dice and got an all metal hot end and it works like a charm
Proper Care is what those printers need. Bit of Bearinggrease, leveling each week and make sure everything turns and belts are tight. My S1 Pro has about 250h off printtime with one Beltchange. I guess everything works longer if you are willing to take care of it.
I have probably double that on a Qidi xplus and no belt changes or any major changes. The only reason I've ever changed anything, is because I was already at that part, and have excess. All about following those instructions to a T. Holding the heat block while tightening the nozzle, while at temp, is a perfect example. Proper lubrication, dusting, and evaluation of wear components will get dramatically more use time. These things include checking step Motors while in operation, checking things that filament come in contact with, etc.
Hey I need some help pretty bad my ended 3 s1 was working perfect I opened the box set it up and printed the cat. When the print was done I clicked done the printer moved some and started cooling down whatever normal stuff but now the z is flashing ??? And won’t zero correctly it’s raised about 3 inches and won’t move down any lower yes I can manually move it down but the z offset is not working at all so I don’t really know what to do all cords are plugged in and the printer is brand new. I can’t find anything else online of someone with this issue
How hard do you run your printer? I have over 600h and all I did was a nozzle replacement bc of wear. Also the rubber bushings if they are over tight will cause ringing in your print. Best of luck though !
I do not think they are rubber. I believe they are nylon bushings. The point of them is to remove the flexibility. The springs were originally used to be able to level the bed, but with mesh bed leveling, it is really not needed. So the bushings allow for the bed to be more rigid and not have to worry about adjusting them. I used similar looking nylon bushings in a CNC router I designed. I just needed an offset for radial bearings to have enough cleance to properly interface with the steel rods. They were pretty rigid but I later changed the design to use actual linear bearings. Would you please explain how the usage of rubber bushings may cause ringing? And how would this be different than a spring?
@@matthewdethlefson586 I think rubber is better than springs specifically because it's able to damp oscillations as opposed to springs. High internal friction. But if you want a hard mount, why spacers? Just tie the bed to the bolt with a nut underneath the bed, and tie the everything to the moving platform with two nuts around the bed carrier. That's what I do, works for me. Broke the bed glass the moment I did this, because my probe got stuck, it was hilarious. Learned to make glass. :D
@SianaGearz well you would still need the nylon bushings as spacers. The original design was intended to have a certain amount of space between the head of the screw and the nut. There are electronics under the bed that heat the bed thar should not be tightened right up against the carriage. Plus, the bushings used as spacers allow you to use the same screws and are probably cheaper than purchasing shorter screws. I hear what you say about absorbing vibrations. I think you are probably right for lower quality machines like this one. There are lots of vibrations, and rubber spacers would definitely reduce noise more than nylon spacers. But if you dont care about noise, then you want your machine to be a rigid as possible to create more accurate prints. The more square and rigid your machine is, the easier it is to be faster and more accurate. Vibrations can be tuned out using firmware these days if you are up to that learning curve. I went down that entire habit hole. I ended up building my own ender 5 with klipper. It was a sinkhole of learning curves but in the end it printed pretty fast and with really good looking prints. I ended up getting tired of having to fix it though so I ended up selling it for less money than what I put into it.
@@matthewdethlefson586 No no no you don't need spacers. The screw is the spacer. You don't need new screws. One nut holds up the bed at the top of the screw, and two nuts hold the screw at the set height above the carrier. I wish i could send a picture, this is how i build my printer. You can set the bed to any height that the original screws allow. Holds rock solid too. Stack up like this from top to bottom: Screw head - bed - nut --- screw shaft --- nut - bed carrier sled - nut.
@SianaGearz you said no need for a spacer and then just described how to use a nut as an adjustable spacer instead of a fixed spacer. That's great it worked for you but that requires tramming the machine. If you use fixed spacers then they are already equally spaced which is quicker to setup for me. Do what you like to do though.
I don't get springs or silicone. Like sure silicone is better because it's dual function, it's spring damper system and doesn't just keep oscillating forever unlike a spring. But like you don't need springs here? Just tie the bolt with a nut to the bed (ensure good electrical insulation, some pcb tracks can be awfully close to the hole), then two nuts around the carrier to set height. You can put the nuts into handy wheels too. Just an adjustable hard mount.
@@dmitrypushkarev7162 Thank you, I'll give that I try. I just purchased solid polyurethane mounts for the med. The web interface I'm using with the Sonic pad gives a readout of the bed height. I'm thinking about setting up by dial gauge and using this info adjust the bed level, to get it as level as possible, then reuse the auto level. I'll give that command a try though. Thanks you very much.
@MMPCTV another way you could try is level the bed manually until you are fairly confident that the bed is leveled to the nozzle and not nozzle to the bed that way you have an even bed along the x and y axis rather than z axis like the s1 normally do it then run an auto level and then do the z offset that way you get the best possible leveled bed
Afzer tinkering with 3D printers for 7 years, my ultimate and final Ender 3 fix was to buy a BambuLab X1 Carbon! Printing for almost a year and had not a single repair or fault. Didn’t even change the hardened nozzle till now.
I have a fully modded Anet A8 sitting next to my Ender 3 original, ender 3 v2, ender 3S1, and Einstart S. I use them all without fail every print. It’s all in proper maintenance and bed leveling.
i just bought a touch sensor, and i’m a little lost. so after the touch probe maps the bed. does that save the bed mapping to the printers’s memory? and what are you doing with the paper after that? setting x offset? do you have to save that to the printer memory as well?
After a recent ASA related cataclysmic failure, I had to replace the entire fan shroud, both fans, sock, block and everything else that got destroyed. Here's what I learned on the way. If you run tube, use Capricorn. Buy a new extruder.. one that's tougher than Chuck Norris's nightmares. Stick in an 'all metal hot end' (nothing too fancy required) Fit new rollers (if you're that pi55ed off at it, pull it to bits and rebuild it anyways and switch the old rollers around - it helps) Fit the MB and PSU with 'Arctic' fans, it won’t run cooler, it'll just be less annoying. Finally... Flash with 'mriscoc' firmware (THAT LAST STEP IS KEY) Congratulations, you have just treated your 3D printer to an ice-cold refreshing glass of 'nowshutthefuckupandgetoveryourself' All of this will help you hugely and I wish you good luck. Thanks to MRISCOC who wrote the firmware - you have made these machines what they were meant to be!
One issue you haven’t fixed. The screws are loose and I saw the levelling screws falling off during a print because the vibration got the loose eventually. Silicon spacers of course help but if run into issues again - get some m4 nuts.
Almost all the issues people have with the Ender are related to those wheels and screws that are not sturdy enough. What you say is true, the spacers can help but won't resolve the screws getting loose. I'm using the printed clips (available at printables) to keep the wheels locked but I'm going to reinforce the screws with m4 (with stoppers). I also got the silicone spacers but not installed them yet. But I mean with the m4 nuts plus the clips then there is no much more to do.... Well maybe changing the m4 screws themselves or get tidier wheels.... Or just get a prusa or something 😅😅😅😅
Hey I need some help pretty bad my ended 3 s1 was working perfect I opened the box set it up and printed the cat. When the print was done I clicked done the printer moved some and started cooling down whatever normal stuff but now the z is flashing ??? And won’t zero correctly it’s raised about 3 inches and won’t move down any lower yes I can manually move it down but the z offset is not working at all so I don’t really know what to do all cords are plugged in and the printer is brand new. I can’t find anything else online of someone with this issue
Don't you just love this PREMIUM offering from Creality? Bought it thinking I'd be able to print and and prototype more with less tinkering. Got a glass bed because the stock one is warped so much and it helped, but I still don't trust it to do larger x/y prints. Not being able to adjust the z offset by less than .05 is killing me. If you spend $400+ on the printer and need to add a $170 sonic pad to get klipper/better firmware/better bed mesh, you might as well just spring for a Bambu P1P or a Prusa.
I have a Creality Ender v2 that got a bunch of plastic all up in the head and broke the thermistor. 50 dollar replacement head and then I realize that my bed cannot be adjusted to level. It literally did not have the ability to do so without fully disassembling and reassembling. I do not like the bed leveling for the Creality Ender line
Tighten the nozzle farther and if that doesn’t work you might need a new hotend which isn’t super expensive luckily. I had the same problem with a dremel brand printer and I ended up having to buy a new hotend because I let it get to far without noticing.
Lol, speak for yourself. The silicon spacers and a swap to a glass bed fixed all of my issues. Leveled the bed once and printed PLA, Silk, and PETG without changing anything but temp settings.
@@monteestowes1245silicone spacers wear down and lose their sponginess. You will end up retightening them after a few weeks. The stock yellow springs would hold the bed level a bit better and don’t wear out.
Glass bed and spacers helped me too, but I spent way more time and energy and money than I should have had to to get this thing printing the way it should have out of the box. If I wanted a printer I had to upgrade right away and wrench on all the time, I would have bought a basic ender 3 for half the price. P1P arrives on Tuesday.
Im only mentioning this cause ur wheels look pretty worn like mine did replaced the ones that werent tight and fixed my layer shifting and scraping Need to also tighten up the z axis carriage wheels im constantly having to tight them back up if not one side drags across a 35 hours prints and knocks it off from th pressures of scaping across it on hour 33
@@t-officialmusic7034 I had only one printer before bambu lab so I don’t have much experience, I had Anycubic Vyper for about 1 year. Now with Bambu Lab I can say that 3D printing is easy, fun, fast. I’m just not using the cheapest filaments, just load PLA, PETG or whatever You want, use the profiles from bambu studio and everything works which was a bit of shock after Vyper.
Aluminium heatblock's problem is their inner threads get loosened after 3th or 4th nozzle change... get copper heat block yes they are heavier but much more versatile copper has less expansion behavior and copper is harder material than aluminium. With copper heat block and titanium + copper heatbreak your nozzle will not be jammed ever again. I am using same copper nozzle same copper heatblock and same heatbreak for 1.5 years no problems at all.
I just bought my first 3d printer the creality ender 5 plus and I was stuck full month on how to bed level and everything in RU-vid was a lie I don’t need to do the six leveling or bed measuring I just put the bed close to the Nozzel I remove the z axis to zero then I go leveling I press 26 times on the minus the heat first the bed for 60 c before the Nozzel so I don’t lose a lot of filament then I go to the print select what file I want to use put the nozzle temperature on 205 wait and then it’s printing for me I dunno if it’s true or not that what’s working for me but If it’s working for u I’m glad that succeeded
When moving the rubber needs a lot more energy to wiggle therefore making the bed way more stable leading to less vibrations going through the print and small layer shifts
@@Vector3DP Those spacers are going to have a much higher thermal expansion cefficient than steel springs, looks like a horrible idea. Autolevel sucks if it's unreliable, meshing probe far more useful.
@@bobwatson6449 Muddy the waters much? No, why they don't use steel spacers and why I didn't say to, and I told you why they don't use rubber spacers. I'm telling you if you look up legit material science info, say at wolfram-alpha or matweb, what the thermal expansion of any given rubber or plastic as compared to steel, steel is extremely much lower, and so will be far more consistent across temperatures. I don't feel like doing math for you, but ask chatGPT or maybe wolfram alpha, if I take a 1" nylon cube and a 1" steel cube and elevate temperature on both, from 22°C to 222°C, and the steel will be minimal, while the nylon will be huge thermal expansion movement. Arguably you could say that well if I level the bed at print temperature, then I'd have less of an argument, but my opinion is there would be other problems along with it, including inconsistency print to print, dimensional change to the nylon over the very long duration of the print. You can mock my answer, but the joke is on you, I was just trying to help, please ignore my advice, thank you. BTW, I say nylon, but any elastomer, look up the CTE compared to steel, make a ratio, and there is your consistency ratio, and likely far worse over time, in practice.
1. Thermal paste on that nozzle threads 2. Need to torque the nozzle in 3. Print your own solid bed mounts (if you want some bed cushion. Add a piece of rubber or tpu/ tpe gasket on top) 4. Get nylon locking nuts instead of the big dumb spinning knobs 5. Go Pro level and cut the long bed bolts down with Dremel wheel
Amazon or aliexpress or literally anywhere. Just lookup silicone bed spacers. The S1 Pro spaces are all the same height, so make sure you get unifier ones and not the pack with one shorter they the rest.
No es bueno que la base sea tan rígida porque si hay problemas en el autohome el cabezal pasaría rozando muy fuerte contra la superficie. Por eso es mejor que existan los resortes. Si esta mal calibrado el autohome o el motor se saltó unos pasos,. Al llegar a la cama, comprimiría los resortes. Algo no deseable pero mejor que la rigidez
Had an Ender 3 and went thru hell always trying to level it. After 3 months of mostly nightmares, I trashed it, stripped it and sold it for parts and went with a FlashForge Adventurer 4. Been printing with ZERO hassles for a year now.
