The 2019 RAM is already woolwaxed since birth.....duh...it's a Ram (sheep) get it?...you get it. 😎 Bah Bah Black Sheep...have you any woolwax? see what I did there?
I would like the black woolwax too. I saw another video where the guy warmed up woolwax by putting the spray bottle in a tub of hot water. Better yet apply woolwax before weather gets cold.
Best to spray Woolwax in June or July when it is really hot out to assist with spraying. If you wait until 70 degree weather it is too late even if you heat it up to get it through the extension wands. I had to switch to a gruel of boiled linseed oil, bar chain oil, toilet bowl wax and a gob of marine grease heated up in an old crock pot for inside the frames. I sprayed a small area outside the frame with it just to see in the spring which held up better to snow.
Nice video. I have undercoated my Toyota FJ Cruiser with Rust converter and Fluid film and results were great. Looks black and shiny even after months. I've posted video in my channel , step by step process how to do it. Thanks for this video as I wanted to know what exactly is this woolwax thingy.
I put Fluid film (or bar and chain oil) in a pot on a hot plate. Then I add some pieces of candle wax and stir. Shoot that on and it's much better than just straight product.
Oh please do update video's on these products. I have been kicking around the idea of buying myself a brand new Rubicon and will considering using one of these products. Even though I live in Phoenix Az. I still believe it will be a good idea. Thank you for the video and product demo
Both products work well for moisture repulsion. That's how it stops rust, the water runs off and takes the salt with it. In an arid climate salt isn't a concern, but can't hurt to do the inside of the frame at least especially on a Jeep. I will say that I have used lanolin prevention on my 2016 Silverado truck at work and it has absolutely zero rust anywhere on it. Several other 2016 trucks were purchased at the same time and have rust at all the edges of the frame, on the suspension, and at some body seams. Lanolin (both Fluid Film and Woolwax) definitely works!
If youre spraying when its cold get a paint mixer hook it up to your drill and mix it up, it will thin it out and spray better. I have a undercoating business I use fluid film. FF also makes it in black now (it is also thicker then clear). Awesome product. Also if you can use a airless sprayer, works 1000 times better then those kits.
After reading some of these comments it makes me wonder if people even listen to the video. Some of them think your rusted chassis has always been treated. Others ask why your using the product on a vehicle rusted so bad. The dam video explains all of this. Wow
I can't believe how well that worked on the first vehicle, it appears that as time goes by there will be less spraying too. My car looks the same, almost, as the one showcased. If only I too had started 8+ years ago.
They both have their advantages. Are use fluid film on my ram 1500 chrome wheels/bumpers/grill, I put it on and I leave it on all winter without wiping it off. You can’t even see it when it’s on the bumpers in the wheels. It just makes them look like they’re wet.I could not do that with the black woolwax.. also, in hot weather, the fluid film I sprayed on my truck will run at times, not much, but it has streaked down my headlights, and on my bumpers on very hot days. With wall wax, that would not look like just water running down. I do have to say, that the running fluid film when it gets very hot, wipes right off with a rag, no problem. I am going into my third winter with my ram 1500. I spent five days rustproofing it with fluid film the first week I brought the truck home brand new. I have no rust, and where I live here in Pennsylvania, they throw salt from November thru march.. I do not spray under my truck all winter with water to wash the salt off. I don’t even run my truck through a car wash all winter. And I have no rust. Great stuff
I've Fluid Filmed a couple of my friends brand new cars and did my brand new truck at work. None of the cars have any signs of rust. I do my work truck every fall and 4 years in it has absolutely zero rust and we use a ton of salt here.
Been going ‘full-retard’ with Fluid Film on my 2 Jeep XJs since returning to the Salt Belt from the PNW a few years ago. The stuff works great. I try to do my annual application while it’s still warm to promote creeping. Avoid underbody washes till spring ( I know! It’s counterintuitive)-just use garden hose pressure to spray the bottom when it’s above freezing. Depending on how much highway driving you do, a midwinter application may be needed on exposed areas like floor pans and wheel wells
I've used a few different rust prevention fluids, but Fluid Film has been my favorite. I love how it creeps a few inches and goes into places I can't spray, but the smell has always been and issue. I use it on my old farm equipment as well as my vehicles and the stuff is amazing. I think, based on your observations, that I'll order a gallon of Wool Wax and see what it does.
The Woolwax is definitely a little thicker so I'm going to see how it holds on. I actually like the smell of FF. If you can smell it you know its working!
Thank you for the great video, I’m sure you’ve heard, but fluid film now has an option to come in black. Never tried it but I do love fluid film. Works great for me
I like using Fluid Film because it creeps over time. I’ve been thinking about trying WoolWax this year on my F-350. Do you think using the black will allow one to see where it washes off? Then it would be easier to do touch ups throughout the winter.
Tip, take either one and heat it in a "Presto" electric crock pot to 100F then spray it on. A regular paint spray gun will apply either one much faster..
Ya the black looks awesome but heaven help you if you touch it or need it work on it it tracks everywhere and don't move your vehicle till you change your clothes
I know a very good tip if the woolwax isn’t spraying out of your undercoating gun good make sure it is well heated so that it’s liquid then you can spray away and it will go back to its original consistency if not you could always thin it a little with vegetable oil that’s if you absolutely have to.
Yeah, it was definitely too cold to spray the thicker Woolwax. An easy was to warm it up is have a hot pan of water and warm the gun container or the gallon can itself up in the water and it will spray nice.
Lanolin based products works good on preventing rust and slowing it down. A frame that is extremely rusty needs more than a little TLC. A wire wheel and some POR15 might be a good starting point before applying a band-aid over an existing problem.
@@tim9m good luck with sealing up that rust it will continue to cook under the surface. The por15 will flake off, been there done that Fluid film type stuff is the only solution.
Something no one ever seems to mention is the fact that rust is porous, similar to wood. So the rust can be used to hold an oily rust preventative onto the metal. A thinner oil will penetrate the rust all the way through down to the pure steel. So the concern about sticking to the frame is way over rated. And worse, the thicker products will not penetrate the rust as well as a thinner product. Any kind of oil will work well on a rusty surface. The only time you need something thick is for new, shiny, rust-free steel. Or you can let it rust a little, then the thinner oils will penetrate and stay in the deeper layers of the rust. Easy-peasy. The "old-timers" would apply used motor oil and that works very well too, except it can damage rubber if it's not cleaned off right away.
I used the wool wax clear a few weeks ago (spray cans). Make sure you wear clothes that you don't care about! I wore a pair of nice double-front Carhartt pants; I got drops of wool wax on several areas of the pants while I was spraying. After being washed three times, the wool wax is still embedded in the pant material. Hopefully, it sticks to the car this well!
@@dannymcsherry3512 Yes, still satisfied. If I don't wash the car for a week or two, the lanolin film creeps out onto the painted areas of the car. I will do a closer examination under the car when I install the snow tires / wheels next week. Just today, I applied Fluid Film to exposed U-bolts and hardware on my TV antenna. Hopefully, if they ever need to be removed, they won't be rusted solid! Regards.
Not sure, but what I read about Fluid Film, it is supposed to be base coat, covered by thicker layer of Perma Film, especially on mechanically exposed parts like wheel wells ... Not a pro, maybe I'm missing something.
@@QuickSpeedShop yea, point was that you might not need to reapply it every year. Used just as base coat, and protected with something which is a bit more permanent. I'm thinking about Fluid Film like about base paint protected with something on top of it. You also do not have, probably, car painted just with base paint and there are layers above and then clear coat of lack on very top.
Good video. Products today are so much better than 30 years ago. Glad I live out west now. Grew up in the north. Had lot of vehicles including plow trucks. Used motor oil and kerosene worked well for winter protection.
I am thinking about using these products on my newer car and my older (15 yo) truck, the latter which already has rust that has started, not surprisingly. What is your recommendation on using only products like these, or should some sort of rust reformer used first, then followed by FF/WW?
Wouldn't hurt to spray some kind of rust converter on the rusty truck first for extra insurance. Both the FF and WW will significantly slow down the rust and keep salt away regardless.
I want to put on my cast iron sink, after I take off the rust. Since I do not remove sink every year or 10 years, would this work. The main area where sink contacts surface is the problem, which will contain chaulk, as well
Wouldn't it make sense to thin those products out ? What would you thin them with ? I'd like to spray my truck chassis but I don't want anything that makes a complete mess out of it and I don't want something that attracts dirt. I was considering spraying diesel fuel but I'm afraid that it would hurt the rubber and plastic components . Any thoughts on that ? What about vegetable oil or boiled linseed oil ?
You don't want to thin the stuff out. I put it on heavy and yes, it does attract dirt. The wax/dirt mixture makes a corrosion proof coating. I would much rather have a rust free truck with a layer of wax and grime under it then have my truck rot away. I made a 4 year comparison video of FF with two identical trucks on my channel you can watch if you want to see what 4 years of FF buildup looks like. If you coat your truck with diesel or oil it will also attract dirt and leave rainbow stains everywhere every time it rains.
Can you spray the ww black on suspension, transmission, axel, rear differential? I have 2016 Silverado I have never under coated and plan on lightly wire brushing the little bit of rust off then under coating frame axel suspension everything pretty much under the vehicle? Is WW black safe for that? Or just go with the fluid film?
Oh man !, I bought a bunch of fluid film based on your prior videos, It seems like good stuff, but now I'll have to try the woolwax. The black color is a plus !
I really like the black for suspension and drivetrain. I'll probably still use Fluid Film for the majority of my stuff because I can get it locally, but the Woolwax black is a huge bonus.
@@TheRazmotaz These products are made from lanolin which displaces moisture. They are not water based. No idea what chemistry WW used to tint theirs black.
Damn I bought a gallon of fluid film for my bronco now I see there is another product called wool wax??!?!! Damnnn kinda WANA cancel my advanced auto order
I see looking on there website Fluid Film are also doing it in black I did not see a price for I just wanted a can of it would have preffered to have had black but went for clear in the end as I could not find any black.
They are coming out with FF black very soon, but I don't think it is available yet as I had the same problem you did. Once it comes out I'm definitely getting some as I prefer the FF to WW
Excellent video. I will be doing this on my 11 year old F250 that has never been treated and quite rusty underneath. What do you think about knocking off the loose rust first and then applying a Rust convertor on chassis and finally following up with Woolwax? Originally I was going to remove the bed and do the painstaking task of wire wheeling the whole frame, treat with a Phosphoric Acid convertor (Corroseal, Rust Mort, etc), Paint with an Encapsulator (POR-15, Eastwood, etc) and finally top coat with a quality paint. But then I started reading up on these lanolin products (FF & WoolWax). Which will certainly be quicker and easier. I am more interested in saving the chassis than I am in aesthetics. So I believe applying this WoolWax once a year will do the job. But what do you think of adding the convertor step? Waste of time? Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching. I think what I would do is get a needle descaler and hit the frame with that to really knock all the loose rust off. The rust converter is a good idea, but must be followed by a paint of some kind because it's not meant to just be left to the elements by itself. This will help to seal the metal up a little before the Woolwax. After that, heavily apply the Woolwax to everything. I usually put about 3 quarts work on the bottom of a full size truck. The Woolwax black would be perfect for a truck that already has rust as you can make the whole underside black and shiny even though it was a ball of rust before. I apply my lanolin every fall. If i get a warm spell mid winter I will wash the truck thoroughly and apply a touch up coat just for good measure. After a couple of applications you will start to build up a decent layer of lanolin and really seal the metal from salt and water. I also only rinse the truck off with a hose and soapy water. Car washes spray too forcefully and will blast off Woolwax or Fluid Film if you are constantly running the truck through the wash bay. Good luck with your truck.
@@QuickSpeedShop Excellent. Thanks for the reply. I am aware that converted rust needs a top coat of some sort. I was thinking WoolWax would be my top coat. i.e. If only given 2 options: 1. WoolWax right over the rust 2. Convert, then WollWax I would think option 2 would be better, No? (Both would first start out with a needle descaler)
@Diesel Mike I think that the rust converter needs an actual paint to cover it. I think it needs the chemistry to work correctly. I wouldn't be scared about just putting the Woolwax right over the rust, but the converter and paint would just be an extra step.
@@DieselMike My van was mostly surface rust with some areas that were flaking. I did the needle descaler then I used Corroseal on structural metal and a few other areas. I waited a couple of days for the Corroseal to fully dry(not sure how long that would take), then coated everything with WoolWax. I think the Corroseal will offer another layer of protection on the areas where WoolWax or FF may wash off before you have a chance to add more. Either way, going with either option (1 or 2), you're gonna dramatically slow rust but go with the converter on areas where you think the WoolWax might come off before you have a chance to re-coat. Even without a top coat on the Corroseal, I've read that it still offers added protection with or without Woolwax but with Woolwax or FF, you're doing 100X more than most people to protect their vehicle. The Corroseal has the added bonus of making things looking like they got a fresh coat of black paint.
Hey I used a combination of both on my 2019 Dodge Ram crewcab. The Wool Wax clear and Black on undercarriage and frame. I heated up the product then sprayed it on using wand and spray can then the professional spray gun.
It hangs on well. If you wash a car with bottom blast everyday it will take its toll. I suggest just rinsing under the car with light water pressure. Fluid Film should be applied once a year for ongoing protection.
I ordered a gallon of fluid film and their sprayer one time, online. Got the gallon of fluid fluid film.....but the cantainers that came with the sprayer had WoolWax logo on them. I think Fluid Film sells under both names
You probably ordered the gun and Fluid Film from Kellsport Products in MA. They used to rep Fluid Film before making their own brand under Woolwax. They did the guns before making their own lanolin mix.
Undercoating paint is good for solid areas, fluid film is good for unreachable areas. Besides you can paint first, and then just oil it over with fluid film
Can you mix FF and WW black together then spray? I bought a gal of FF and now want black color. I figure I can buy gal of WW black and mix them to get 2 gals of blackish color,.
They both work equally well. I like the WW black for hiding chassis that already have surface rust. I tend to use FF more just because I can buy it locally when I need it.
How long has fluid film been used on the vehicle in this video. I ask because I'm seeing lots of rusted out areas in the video as you apply the product.
I want to do my vehicles, thinking of using the wool wax. you said its ok for electrical and rubber. I heard it would cause rubber to swell and fail, ant truth to that?
Electrical components no problem. I spray it on all connections, battery ends, plugs, etc. It will soften rubberized undercoating and soft rubber things like that. I have not had problems with rubber like door seals or rubber hoses, but haven't really unnecessarily sprayed rubber products with it either. I guess I would try not to spray rubber brake lines and fuel lines, but if a little got on the rubber I wouldn't freak out about it.
The rusty truck was my winter beater S-10 which was retired after another winter. The green F250 is in very good shape and has not deteriorated at all after FF and WW.
Excellent. I actually filmed a 4 year comparison test between 2 identical trucks, one sprayed one not. Here is the link. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VPHDZbWD6J0.html
@@DmanDanstube Yes, the black stayed good. I did a 4 year comparison video between two trucks, one sprayed, one without if you look for it on my channel.
I'm working on a video this spring that shows the difference between two identical trucks, run in the same climate, one sprayed for 4 years and one not. The difference is definitive. Should be out in a month or two depending on when I have access to film.
It seems like if you already have rust, then whats the point? I guess if you have to give it a longer lifespan it could help. The rust belt areas are really harsh, and this pains me to say, but I'm glad I don't have to deal with all that like some of my family members. I would cringe to smelly coatings and sprays! Take care! 👍
The truck I used in this comparison was already extremely rusted out and really wouldn't benefit at this point. I was just using it for a visual display. I will have a comparison video coming out in the spring that shows two trucks, one I have sprayed every year since new and one that wasn't. Both trucks were purchased at the same time and driven in the same conditions. The sprayed truck has absolutely zero rust on it while the unsprayed truck has moderate rust started everywhere. That's only after 4 years. If you live where salt is used and spend tens of thousands of dollars on new cars you'd be foolish not to spend $40 a year to keep them from being destroyed.
How can you claim the products are “good” without salt spray chamber testing preferably with stone impingement compared with an unprotected control area???
I'm not a scientist, but have driven thousands and thousands of miles in the real world salt chamber that is western NY. My only vehicle that hasn't been eaten alive by road salt is the 2016 Chevy Silverado truck I drive at work and that I personally Fluid Filmed since it was new. Four years later it has absolutely zero rust anywhere on it. The three other Silverados purchased at the same time, driven on the same roads, but not sprayed all have significant surface rust on the chassis and rust starting on the sheet metal. I'll take that proof over a salt chamber any day.
QuickSpeedShop I agree. NY has some of the worst salt caused rust anywhere. Where I am they also spray that liquid salt compound on the roads before it starts snowing. That stuff is even worse than salt. NY roads are asphalt for the most part and our roads are almost white with salt all winter long. You are right, we are in the real salt test chamber. My personal preference is the wool wax because it does seem to hang on better. We use it on a Ford E250 Van.
@@QuickSpeedShop You should do a video showing this comparison. It would be more helpful than most of these types of videos. Although I would be looking a little further out than 4 years, at least you have a comparison with/without the product.
Assuming you have a car wash nearby that offers unlimited washes for a fee, forget undercoating. Just wash your car once a day. I've been doing this for years and not one ounce of rust. Juast be sure to get the under wash option. I pay $38 dollars a month. That comes out to $1.26 per wash (depending on how many days are in a given month). Don't waste your time and money. I wish I owned a car wash.
The closest car wash is 5 miles away from my house one way. It would cost me $49 a month to wash every day. I can Fluid Film or Woolwax my truck for $49 once a year. Lanolin protection sheets moisture away and protects the metal. I coat the insides of the frame and all the body seams providing protection. Running you car thru the car wash everyday for the rest of your life might work for you, but will just leave the thing wet in all the seams all the time and adds zero protection to places where paint didn't get, but water, salt, and dirt can. Plus I have better things to do with my life than go to the car wash everyday, no thanks.
Wil Par the water from washing will eventually cause rust underneath everywhere there is bare metal being there are places underneath that will hold water. I guess if you have a way to completely dry the car it could work perhaps.