So today I took delivery of "The Feather Bender's Tying Techniques" and already (pardon the pun) I'm hooked! It's a lovely tome that looks set to entertain as well as educate. In our modern, electronic world it's the perfect example of the wonders of traditional print and for the sake of 20-or-so quid, I'd urge others to make the investment. One small observation... You can't get a windsurfing board in the loft. At least, not in ours!
Going around the base of the wings here is a real struggle for me. the tying thread slips off and there doesnt seem to be enough room to hold the deer hair with one hand and bring the thread around with the other.
Hi, To stop the thread slipping off use a little fly tying wax on your thread. Your issue with having difficulty holding the deer hair wing while wrapping the the base comes with practice. Keep doing what you are doing and it will get easier with time. Good luck!
Thank you Barry, needless to say, nice video, again! I have tied the deerhair dun before, but not that one. What would you say is the main difference between these two in terms of use? Would you use the hair wing dun when the water is a bit more rapid? I am trying to understand the function of the rooster hackle, and what it could do appart from making the fly float higher on the water surface. Thanks
Absolutely Quentin, this one floats high and dry so it works perfect for faster broken water. The deer hair dun is more for still water and fishes a little deeper in the surface film. The rooster hackle... there are many different thoughts regarding this that I could right a whole book on. One of my favourite explanations is by Kingsmill Moore, in his brilliant book, 'A man may fish' Where he explains the importance of colour and translucency of materials, especially hackle on both dry and wet flies. Its well worth a read.
Barry, you know I think you are a genius on the vise, that is established, so this comment is just a comment and a question about different methods. It appears in the video you tied the hackle on and wrapped it concave side back. I learned to tie dries with the concave side forward and wets were tied with the concave side back. Of course I learned before genetic hackles. The idea is that the barbules pointing slightly forward makes is less likely to collapse the hackle after soaking and makes the fly float better. Have I been wasting my time with such care in tying on hackle? Another great video, as always.
Hi John, thanks. The hackle on this video is concave back, which is the traditional hackle style, but many patterns call for the hackle tied in the opposite way. And if you are tying a fore and aft pattern (with two hackles one at the front and one at the rear of the fly) these have to be wound in opposite directions! Tenkara hackles have to be wound concave out! But the traditional way is, concave back or shiny side out!
@@rhabdob3895 This is a standard pattern that with a little adjustment in colour and hook size, will cover just about any adult mayfly dun. An essential pattern that covers elementary techniques that illustrates tail, wing length and hackle size relative to hook size along with the very simplest dubbed body. This should be learned by every fly tying beginner.
Beginners today will master this craft so much faster by watching Barry's channel! I'm jealous.....all those hours of making unfishable flies. All that material. The internet and Barry changes everything! 🤠
@@Thefeatherbender It's true.....45 years ago I learned the hard way....🤠 I enjoy tiring and fishing, but the internet and channels like yours are resources that will change everything! 😁 There are still little bits to learn for everyone from tutorials like yours. Watching your videos is relaxing and informative. Thanks for sharing, and posting... Best Wishes! 🤠
