A video of 2 saws that buckin left here. 1 is my 266 build that we weren't happy with and the other is Hogan's Ironhorse 266 that come down with some problems. thanks for watching
and yes we built them to last with with good power. theres others that make then hall ass but they blow up. Most of my fallers get years out of the saws and they run them hard
Your saws haul ass. So I had a faller ask me to do his saw. He wanted plenty of torque, wasn't particularly interested in RPM. So I built a saw with numbers different from anything I have ever built before. I did a 372 and a 395. Both of them absolutely ripped. After 5 years of stuffing around building RPM saws and never being particularly happy with them I build what I thought would be a bit of a slow dog and by far the best two saws I have ever built. I am changed forever. They were quick and easy to do as well. It has always astounded me how fast you port saws, now I know.
I have to say thank you! Adding a little reality to the discussion relative to real work saws vs. Hobby saws. I've taken a lot of flack over the years for posting/saying similar things. Couple things to remember is the piston also is tasked with moving heat from said piston to cylinder wall, rings being a conduit. And high compression adds heat. The ability for a saw to take away heat really is the 800lbs gorilla in the room for work saws. That "cooling" system from piston to cylinder wall, muffler design, cylinder fins and flywheel "fan" system defines the upper limit for reliable power. I spent a lot of time with a laser non contact thermometer over the years looking both for max heat AND even (as possible) temps across the cylinder. :) Be curious to see that bottom end vac tested. Was there a proper aluminum partition behind the muffler to control air flow thru the fins? Or did it just exit out the front. Cooling and the old 61/272 series seals on the oil pump side are in my mind a "HP" limiter as well on that class of saw. Last....I had a couple of saws "mysteriously" eat bearings a year or three back and it wasn't until I chucked the cylinder on a lathe and measured the "run out" of the flange ( bore alignment ) I had found the insidious cause. :)
When one builds enough brand new out of the box saws you will soon find they are not perfect either. For better performance, and long term reliability I would go with a well built saw any day. You get what you pay for, buy the best quality parts you can, the extra money spent will pay for itself in production. You are a good man Tinman, those that are successful in life possess a high level of integrity. Eat a piece of humble pie and it will give you the opportunity to create a better recipe.
So cool seeing another legendary builders saw on your channel! If only it was under better circumstances😪 Be interesting to see what you find in the 266 you built Buckin! Thanks for sharing👍
Hey tinman I like how you help and always look or take a saw back when you don't like it and I like that you don't go around and say you're the best saw builder like a lot of other channels man keep up the good work my friend
Good info big man, I personally recommend starting on these chassis saws as they are easy and fun for beginners to start on, I think sometimes a mix of parts will bring failure due to dissimilar structures. 153 is alive and thank you. Regards Dorin
I will add….I was blessed to work in a very known sprint car shop. I was an assembler and our dyno guy knew “fuel”. He kept his knowledge as a Vest! I continued to talk to him and Eventually he figured out his selfishness……..”we” won’t be here forever. (RIP Dan-much Love) -two cents
Very interesting for me Tinman. I acquired a couple of 272xp and 266xp & se, all in boxes, with no bolts. Can't understand why someone would break down a saw and not keep the bolts... puzzling, so another 266 playlist is perfect timing. Almost have a 272xp put together from a split down carcass. Nothing fancy just putting parts together from a box of parts. We'll see how it goes. If it has no power then a complete rebuild will be scheduled for it. TC Tinman Mahalo 🤙🤙🤙
I've always preferred my working saws to be stock. They last longer that way. If I need more power, I buy a bigger saw. But I do love tinkering with engines just to see what I can get. My G660 had about 40 hours of production time before it died so It's gonna become a test bed saw. If I blow it up it only cost me $329 3 years ago
Back in the '90s Echo came out with a pitiful line of saws. They were in trouble with the EPA & those saws suffered. Sounded good but no guts! Shortly after this they bought Shindaiwa & the problem was solved. What was actually was done no idea b/c we quit selling 'em during that time. Where they had been a good seller they stayed on the shelves after that.
Those pistons from ccc are basically wiesco pistons and sometimes I found the saws don't like those pistons , I put the oem piston back in the saw I was building and it ran totally different
Own a micrometer? Sometimes although the diameter might be correct, other dimensions are different, skirt lengths etc. I’m sure you know that though. Wiseco makes good but generic pistons for a lot of applications.
Those rings on the Weisco might not have been hard enough to cut the titanikel bore and seat properly… ??? Boy that 372 that he just sent the john bob logger head… it’s absolutely sick… 38” bar with full comp ripping full length into an old oak log!!! It’s flinging chips 15 feet!!! It’s just scary awesome!!! I’d love to be able to dissect that SOB!!!
That pipes wicked brotha! I have had no luck with the titan nickle cylinders unfortunately. I’d rather have farmertec top end and clean up all the imperfections their plating is much softer.
I’m with you… I’ll run a Farmertec before the titanikel… I’ve had several fail 1/2 a year down the road when the lining flakes off the corner of the exhaust port window…you absolutely need to grind your exhaust port window on those and lose that little corner so it doesn’t get brittle down the road and flake because it’s hard and wiped out the topend.,, they aren’t OEM or the old Meteor quality even…
@@tinmanssaws seriously hope you and others don’t! Look at how the cylinder lining rolls around the edges and into the exhaust port window…that bottom edge is a potential problem… I think that the ring might have contacted the corner and chipped it away… I’ve just ground it out of my port windows… and they are still fine … having a bigbore with a popup option is huge so I’ll work around that corner… the lining itself is beautiful!
found you recently, have enjoyed binge watching and benefiting from a lot of good information about how these two strokes work. Like performance mods to automobiles, once you start down that path it is a totally different animal. Reliability and longevity are lost in trade for performance. For the vast majority of saw users, even pros, the better option is to buy a bigger saw than you need and then do not push it hard. Any motor, even a detuned turd will fail when pushed. I would rather have a slower cutting saw, rich running and still get work out of them after several decades of sensible use. In fact I do, my saws, Homelite and Jonsereds are early 1980's vintage and still run as good as the day I broke them in, having cut ridiculous amounts of firewood and done much milling.
I just pulled my dads 266se out of the shed and it sat for over 20 years. Cleaned what I could take apart easily. Added new fuel line and filter. Cleaned the tank and added fresh fuel and it runs and pulls strong thru hard maple. What should I be aware of and what would a good upgrade build cost me. My dad bought this saw new in 1982 I believe
I've seen the updated video on way these saws went lean. I've got aluminum brazing rods. If your interested in the brand to check it out for yourself, let me know. Othere then that nice find.👍
Just my 2c but you maybe should have used matching piston, rings, and cylinder all from same manufacturer, just a thought did you check rings gap in the piston, just guessing what happened. Has the one at the end been tight for squish by the ring you see on top of piston, maybe heated up and expansion caused piston to hit roof causing damage to rod to piston area
Should the wrist pin take that much force to get it in? Just wondering if the holes in the piston are not quite in alignment, maybe in tolerance, but at the edge of it? Causing the piston to not want to track straight up and down?
Never seen anyone do this. And this is just a question. Would drilling a small hole under the rist pin help oil in there to prevent that. I don't know.
The dyno does not tell you how well a saw is in the wood. I put my saw I ported on a dyno with Rocky Mountain chainsaws. It’s on his channel. But it was good in the wood. But a turd saw on the dyno.
Nothing against the guy who said if you wanted them to last you wouldn't port them. If it's a used crank his comment is valid. I've rebuilt and worked on 4 cycle kart engines for a while now just like those and any other engine, if you use new parts and have a goal of a specific power its supposed to make its going to last regardless. Doesn't matter what kind of cycle it is. The thing I have learned is its best to use new parts for whatever your goal is with the engine. Meaning if it has 10 total minutes of run time from factory and I mean the time they run it at factory to see if it even runs or not. When you get it tear it down and start swapping. Especially if you plan on making more power then factory. The reason being is the new parts gets use to whatever power is pushed through them, resulting in over time it expects no more or no less. Reason why used cranks always fail because they are use to a Lower power output.
I must be doin" this wrong, I've only used old cranks and they rarely if ever fail. Thanks for your comment, we all have different experiences. Who's right and who's wrong???
Just a comment from a nobody. Crack it open! Why not? You can “chase” all ya want, But advancement should Never be hindered because of Respect because it boils down to Pride. Don’t let that hinder ya. Drive on to drive on because, if you don’t, someone will. The question is, how many Years have to go by before that knowledge is known? -two cents
Hey TINMAN. I recently was given a 266SE. I just want a running mid sized saw. It has an original clutch cover AND functional original aluminum tubing chain brake. If anyone wants it, It's for sale. shoot me a message
@@johnallan863 Honestly John I haven't given it much thought. I need to price a new one with the plastic handle . I saw one online somewhere the other day. Now I can't find it...dang it. It might have been here on Tinman's channel. I'd need enough to cover the cost of a new one plus shipping. I have heard that newer model chain brakes and covers will fit on the old SE I just don't know which ones. Maybe Tin man can help. I just need a mid range size saw I have a 40cc and a 92 cc. I might just sell the whole power head and buy a Farmertec kit. My G660 is a dynamite saw. This old 266 SE runs fine and has good compression. The guy who gave it to me said the carb was bad. I started it and it definitely had an air leak. The original fuel line was still in it and had some cracks. I did a temporary replacement with just some regular tubing and it runs great.
HAd a good laugh thanks to RU-vid, The closed captioning says you are working on "chain sauce" I say BRAND IT"! Instead of calling it saw modifications or hot rodding just say you are adding The Sauce
