I have not actively been thinking about my raise size when I'm IP/OOP. I've generally been using a similar raise sizing regardless of position. This is a great reminder to use a smaller raise size IP and a larger raise size OOP.
I play too many hands thinking and knowing due to my level vs opponent that I can outplay them this is problematic keeping things simple like in this flow chart could clean up my game and improve my play thank you
Check Raise out of position. Definitely something to think about. That said, if it's common for pros to do it, I'd be more inclined to check raise in position if I had a premium hand with a big raise.
My flowchart is pretty simple: I stare a guy down and if he looks weak and soft then I put him on ace king and put him to a decision for all his chips. If he looks like a Chad, then I tank until someone calls clock then throw my cards at the dealer one at a time and stomp around. I keep asking and speculating what the guy had and making denigrating comments about his line with whatever hand I speculated he had. Because no one wants to deal with this, they tend to stop betting into me as much.
dont forget to remind the dealer how terrible they are for always dealing you bad hands. They get off on this way too easy - they need to be reminded to mix it up .
Thanks for the advice, now I have more clear understanding of the situation and able to realize what to do, I tried to play poker as a career but I always make mistakes and lose money
My novice style seems to produce good results minimizing the size of losing pots and increasing the size of winning pots but IDK if it's sustainable long-term. I still don't feel I'm a solid Level2-thinker just yet but I'm working on it. -I fold too much with marginal hands against any sort of aggression, even if calling is +EV -I can be weak on the river, especially multi-way when I was the PF-Aggressor -weak on turn after my CBet is called on the flop and my draws haven't hit yet -folding too much to 3-4Bets I give my opponents too much credit in some spots and I'm trying to identify the difference between the good and bad folds. (Hence watching this video.)
Nice editing and tips! Downloaded the charts as well, new problem I have is that my friends with whom I play weekly don't like to play with me anymore lol
Jonathan thank you for your excellent video! In all the examples of when to fold or bet would it be safe to assume that you are in the round with cards that are actually in a range? I've not played much live poker but I've been folding hands that are not in any ranges, CO-25o, EP K6o, UTG-106o, K7o. Are these garbage hands and fine to fold? Assuming that I'm not good enough to bluff yet. I can't always tell if I am folding too much or just getting garbage.
What are some of the factors that determine whether something like a gutshot, high card backdoor flushdraw, or overcards are counted as "junk" or "draw"? Three factors I could think of were: 1. Bet Sizing/Pot Odds 2. Stack Depth (more draws deeper stacked, but less raises) 3. Opponent's Tendencies (less calling against weak tight passive players) On the fly I have a pretty difficult time classifying these three super common hand types and either fold or call or even raise way too much in some spots. Any tips?
It is difficult to do. For the most part, as you face a larger bet, you can fold more. As your draw has less equity, you can fold more. As your opponent will keep betting the turn more often, you can fold more.
@@PokerCoaching Thanks! In Assassinato's videos, he commonly says that the data shows that the vast majority of micro, low, and even medium stakes players fold too little, call too much, and don't bet enough as value or bluffs. If you have no reads/specific data is it sometimes okay to fold more than the MDF with your weaker marginal-made hands and draws?
Had a hand where i am not sure if I should call turn with 6s4s in BB on qh6c5c9h vs UTG double barrel, based on minimum defense. Turn continuance is something to look into. I liked Matt Affleck webinar about that, BT vs Bb turn
Things I do different than GTO strategy: overfold to agression (raises, double/triple barrels, check raises etc) and am overagressive against passive players. My experience is that it works best on the online cash games I play (0.1-0.25NL). Sometimes I check this strategy by calling down a TAG with AQ (with an A on the board) and I am almost always against a better hand. When I going to the higher stakes at some points I will have to adjust.
Especially against recs, I agree with this strategy. They're generally more scared of the board when they don't have the nuts, so aggression from them strongly suggests a very tight- linear range.
Check raising assumes future play. Just because you check does not mean you're going to have the opportunity to raise. This is where you absolutely have to know your opponents tendencies. Also, your opponent will view your hand differently depending if you check, raise, or have the opportunity to check raise. You have to plan for each of those scenarios.
Do you think it’s exploitive … meaning if we defend more with smaller bets, so they bet larger getting us to fold more and get more dead money knowing by default we will fold … or would we just adjust knowing they are taking advantage of the mdf
Just trying to differentiate a couple things here. We call or raise more in position, that much I get, but if we're out of position we're more likely to fold, unless we decide to play a hand, lets say its marginally made against a player with wider range, then we raise more because we need more defense with our lesser good hand out of position. So we defend a wider range with a better position, but if we decide to play out of position we need extra defense, especially if the hand is only marginally made?
I think I overfold but it's like it takes on average to hit one hand I have to fold 60 or more hands I'm bluffing. I hated bluffing but I'm starting to see it's not dishonest it's a part of the game. Once I'm comfortable bluffing I think it will open up my game. I'm not a knit but winning 3 out of ever 100 felt hands made me a knit in appearance. Lol🤦
That was a pretty good video I'm learning alot from you and your other videos you lost me on that math shit but everything else was pretty simple to follow and easy to understand so thx for everything and keep up the good work and a thumbs up and ease up on the math shit lol
If your bluffing, which shouldn’t be too often, you should raise and not wait until the river. Remember, you want your opponent to believe you have the nuts or a very good hand. Good to do with a semi bluff- with blockers like Ax Kx. Don’t just call to the river or it will be pretty obvious that you’re trying to steal the pot
I'm not sure how I'm supposed to do a minimum defense frequency equation on the fly. Do you just get better doing it or is there a trick to kind of doing it on the spot?? I can barely divide much less divide a large number into a small number in my head.
I was in a tournament and there were 3 all ins before I was last to act (125k chips) pre flop. 2 stacks were big like my stack est-100,000-400,000. I had pocket 5’s and called after the 3rd all in. I was up against kk,akoff and qjoff. Did I make the right call even though I only was left with 11kchips after kk won? It was also a $25 bounty per player so I could have got $75 too.
I decide primarily by how high up in my range my hand is based upon how the hand has played to that point and odds accordingly than in my head my inner mr littles voice tells me to do
Glad you’re better at explaining about poker than you are explaining about maths. The mumbling about the way you calculate MDF frequency made absolutely no sense to me
This is actually way less complicated than a lot of similar content. Try watching someone like Finding Equilibrium's channel. It's awesome, but it makes this seem super simplified by comparison.
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