Replacing the old generator with an alternator on our '74 Ford 3000 tractor with an eBay kit. What a fiasco it turned out to be, but it seems to work well! Thanks for watching!
Good video explaining voltage regulator connections rewire. But I prefer heat shrink sleeve to cover any cable joints, might chuck that 3 way contraption and solder joint the three main connections, cover with shrink tube, job done. Makes a neat job on my 1949 Alvis TA14 here in the UK. Thanks Farmboy.
I totally agree with you ... I bought the same kit and I ended up using bolts, wire crimps, from my own stock and even had to customize the bracket as well !! but it did end up working! :) Thanks for the video!
Darn bolts Hate it when that happens. I end up spending days drilling those out drives me bonkers. Looks like your getting it done going to be ready before you know it. Hood is still looking great.
Did the same install on my '68 Ford 5000. Ran into the same issue with the top bracket. Had to grind the bottom of it to allow the alternator case to properly tighten up. Didn't bother with the rest of the electrical hookup as I completely gutted all the wiring and put all new wire into the tractor. One thing I noticed with my kit is that the Proof Meter ran faster than the generator. Where I would show 1900 on the Generator, I was showing 2200 with the alternator. Did anyone else have this issue? All in all, it's a great upgrade - especially if you are adding larger electrical loads like work lights, strobes, etc. Thank you for the install video. Made my own install much easier as I was ready for the new belt and to modify the bracket.
I'm battling this same cheap kit. They welded the radius corner of the bottom bracket on upside down so the alternator doesn't pivot. The bottom bracket spacer is too short. Nothing really lining up well and I'm wondering what surprises I'm in for as I progress. I think I can make everything work but quality control certainly wasn't their priority.
Hey Farmboy, I'm about to do this on my 1970 4000. Does that belt have to have a certain tension or do you just pull it tight and tighten that bolt? Glad you made this video. You make it look easy.
Love the tractor and conversion. Did all the instruments work on the Cluster? Tach and Lights and stuff> That would be my concern. I sure would love to have an old Ford 3000 or 3500 here in Chile. I grew up in SC learning to drive on one of those. Wonderful simple tractor to work on and run. I subbed also. Jim in Chile
I have a 535 Ford backhoe I did this same conversation to. Although I made everything I needed and just ran a wire straight from the battery to the alternator. I never did anything with the wiring to the voltage regulator. Also mine didn't have a tach hook up on the old generator.
Is that tach cable holding up being bent around near the exhaust??? I just installed the same kit, and didn't realize when I ordered it that the tach drive aims right at the exhaust manifold... Some of those kits have the tach drive on the bottom half of the alternator, so the tach cable goes under the exhaust manifold, and doesn't have to be bent sharply.
So the generator RPM has to be high to charge the battery efficiently correct? Whereas the alternator does not correct. It will charge even at idle. Hey I can sympathise with you when something breaks. Sometimes I'll cuss till the air turns blue.
Thanks Joe! We had to rev up to around 1400 RPM to get the charge light to go out with the generator. After that, it'd stay out even at idle. The alternator puts out current (amps) at idle and it increases output the faster it turns. This one will put out around 25-30 amps at normal operating speed (1200-1400) which is more than enough to keep the battery charged.
Thanks for the video... from the last frontier Ak. Where did you order the conversion part.? i have a 1965 Ford backhole diesel and wanted to do the conversion. Thanks again.
