Ford 4.6L 5.4L 3v Engines: VCT Solenoid Replacement 

Dang straight he knows his stuff he’s the go too man on fords

You sure cause I can barely read my dipstick lmaooooo

Even on fresh oil change

One had a tube rust through on a 5.4

lol. Same here. 😅.

My dip stick tub got rusted and the dip stick fell off

+Daniel Gomez I am definitely busy but that's good.

Did you end up doing it? Mine stalled once after idling in warm weather then coming to stop but nothing noticed since

@@KollynJ Yes, I sure did. Had my iPad in the garage with Brian's videos pulled up. I planned on doing it over two weekends but was able to get it done in one. My truck is still running great with 360k miles. I would say, when the truck sputters especially under light load, my experience has been a bad coil pack. I bought a $30 OBD scanner from HF to determine if I have a misfire code and what cylinder, then swap it with a known good one and try again (learned from Brian btw). If I get a misfire on the known good cylinder I know the coil pack is bad.

How did you do it without removing the valve cover?

@@zacharymundell8508 Holy hell, it's been 5 years since I did that? Wow. Anywho... I believe I popped that seal out from around the top of the solenoid and used driver extensions to get to the fasteners. I was avoiding taking the cover off, but I eventually had to do the entire timing job, so this process was futile in the end.

The 05’s don’t require it. Only like 07 and up, or maybe 09 and up. Different design

Exactly what I was thinking. My Dad was a mechanic working from home ‘69-‘73. I used to be the one to clean all the parts and scrape gaskets and such. That valve cover was beautiful compared to what I used to see.

was it knocking at idle or just in drive under a load?

he's married sweetheart try to find your daughter another Daddy

do explain please, vct port?

did you have to remove the valve cover?

+Badr Fisal Yes, both sides, but not the AC hose. This is on a 5.4 Expo built 9/07

Thanks I have the same vehicle and model

What were the symptoms of a bad solenoid

m ph Agreed

m ph Lacking alittle power towing 6k will pay off when your empty & go to refill the tank!

Hey, Makuloco. I glommed onto this comment because I have the 4.6 and I have noticed a weird kind of croak noise and the sound of liquid trickling that happens about 10 seconds after it's shut off. I thought it was just something decompressing, maybe the coolant or water pump. Today I discovered that the trickle is oil dripping pretty heavily for a few minutes, then it stops. Can you tell what that croak might be?

I miss my old 97 4.6 already lmao

I have a 96 mustang gt with a sohc 4.6 tried everything to get the shaking out but not this.. could changing the vct sensor help me?

wow amazing,,my 07 gt has 46K miles on it,,got it when it had 20K,,,,its been a great car and a blast to drive

Why did you rebuilt it sir? What was your problem?

My apologies on such a late response, it sounded like the lifters then I was told the valves. But just got annoyed and sent it out to get done. Then I finally got to reading and researching found the vct solenoid replacement kit might work so far a lot better then before. Good luck God bless

Still have it your expedition?

5w20?

Any luck? Just did both CPS's (bank 1 and 2) and all the coils... I don't want to do the plugs. Still, dealing with idle issues and stalling after it warms up.

​@@StuPedassolme 2 😢 what was ur issue did u find out what it was ..mine is doing the same stalls after a good drive like it ain't gettin fuel

@joeroe2839 it was the cam phasers, due to ford using plastic timing chain guides, throwing off the timing and eating my rockers causing the tick against the cam. I was able to drive it for a while by just unplugging the cam sensors but eventually I knew that tick was just chewing up the lobes on the cam. Had to do phasers, timing chains, cams, rockers and guides, (and of course plugs while in there, because of their tendency to break).

Their may be a cheaper way, it's 4k to have it done... but it'll be good for another 100k miles at least. Have it assessed. Sorry about the bad news.

+Mark Hotopp No you need to check fuel pressure cold for a drain back issue.

@@FordTechMakuloco what about a rough idle only when engine warms up? P0022 and p0345

There is a 4 video series. 1 of 4, 2 of 4, 3 of 4 and 4 of 4.

You don't actually have to take it off in order to replace the VVT (VCT) solenoid. The grommet comes out and it can be replaced I recommend you go about it that way

@@daviddlugosielski3020 Yeah! I agree with you David. Brian took off the valve covers to remove the VCTs but they could be removed from the port holes externally. Wonder why he did it that way?

Hi Conebeam, can you provide little details please. Like did you changed the solenoids by removing the seal only or whole valve cover?

I have seen a couple videos where you can just remove the seal, but those were older model engines than mine. For my 2009 F150, you have to remove the valve cover, the seal opening is too small.

IWORKYOUWATCH check your coils

Osama Abdulla No I scoped the cam sensors and there not overlaying like they should.

+Bruce Beals Oops...found it. Sorry...wasn't looking hard enough!

There isn’t one

This only applies up until mid year 2007 after that you must pull the cover. Plus any service valve covers sold also require valve cover removal to replace the vct solenoid.

I bought an 04 5.4 about a month ago runs great except for this little problem with the VCT, but it sounds like a diesel. What's up with that, have you come across any reasons why ? Thanks !

Dillon Turner I got my 04 with the 3v at 204k miles, and it had the light knock. I now have 216k on it and it runs fine. Knock has not gotten worse. I just continue to change the oil. I know at some point the engine will fail but then I'll just put a 5.0 in it, or a Cummins 4 cylinder.

You just said what I suspected. My 05 F-150, 5.4, sounds like a diesel. I have the new VCT solenoids I just haven't put them in yet. When I cold start it, I give it extra time to warm up, it just sounds like the bottom end is coming apart. The computer ( idiot light ) says oil pressure is good but to my ears, it sounds like not enough oil passing through the engine. Dang, I hope it's not the head. I have 166k on it and it runs great but??? Thanks for posting this helps a lot.

Jim Wills the guy I bought it from had it serviced according to the owner's manual at the dealer since he bought it. He had all the documentation to prove it. He said it had been like that since he remembers. From what I read online as long as it's the VCT, and not the cam or anything else, the only thing you're going to suffer is some terrible gas mileage

Joshua Jones The truck runs great, except when the idle goes bonkers do to those solenoids. ( at a stop) Gas mileage however could be a bit better. In the city i'm getting 10.5, and Hwy 12.5, and I keep my foot out of it. Like I said above, a cold start sounds just like the loose tolerance of a diesel. After it's been driven and warmed up, it's no where near like the start up, yet everyone ask is it a diesel. I guess, I just need to get under the hood and change those VCTs out and go from there. Thanks Josh....Josh, does yours have that cold start bottom end loud chatter?

What was it?

Did you ever figure out the problem brother?

@@gerardogonzalez9586 Hey! Yes I did fix this. I’m not exactly sure what fixed it in the end. I finally decided to just go ahead & do the timing chains...which the drivers side had jumped a tooth due to the plastic guides/tensioners shattering & giving too much slack. I replaced everything, timing chain, guides, tensioners, phasers, VCT...all with Ford OEM parts. While I had the engine out I replaced all pigtails on the coils & injectors too...which I had replaced coils & injectors previously like you probably with no change in the hesitation. Once put back together all hesitation was gone, if I have cruise control on & hit a big hill I lose 1-2 mph rather than 10 & the engine doesn’t skip any while idling. An expensive fix...around $2,800 doing it yourself (I do not recommend)...well, the $2,800 was with oil pump, motor mounts, valve covers...everything I could replace while I had the engine out...or $3,800+ at a shop. Ford will put a new engine in for around $6,000-6,800 last I checked. May be the better...easier...route if you have the money & plan to keep the truck for a long time. Hope this helps! & good luck!

Did you fix your problem

Is this true?