These are the Parts and Tools I Recommend: 5.0l Coyote Ignition Coil Bolts P/N- W714507S437 Anti Seize- amzn.to/31y5qIL Mini Torch- amzn.to/2PIFyXY The original 5.0L Spark Plug Replacement Video- ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-s5ohxYbcjoA.html As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Have a question but nothing to do with video. I bought a 05 ford f150 5.4 3 valve motor everything is good when I first crank it, but when it get to operating temp an come to a stop oil pressure drops to low but while driving its fine. I changed the oil pump with high pressure oil pump any thoughts?
I know this has nothing to do with your post here. Love your videos. I've got a 2012 ford f150 with the 5.0 coyote engine lots of folks have the same problem with low oil pressure lightning on in drive when you stop idle drops to 500 rpms from about 550 when in park. In park it will run no problem no light. Truck is fine first 10 or 15 minutes driving then ya get the low oil pressure light every time you stop. I'm wondering if a higher viscosity oil will help. Or if it would help or if possible to raise the rpms so it will stay above 500 in drive? I simply haven't seen any videos that address this issue other then the oil pressure switch where in all cases the switch was wet with oil from an internal leak. I dont have that. Very difficult to get to on a 4x4. I'm a do it yourselfer. Sorry for the long spill. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Hey sorry for being off topic. Iam trying to look for a fix on a 2003 6.0L excursion Diesel trubo I can start the truck up no problem gas it fine in park. When I shifted in the drive or reverse I step on the gas and the truck has a lack of power. Truck will not go passed 10 mile per hour. no codes because the two batteries were dead replaced already.
Hi I need your help please I have a 2010 Ford Mustang 4.0 V6. There is something wrong with my clutch and someone told me it was a Hydraulic clutch know I don’t know much about hydraulic clutch is but I know you have to push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor just to get it to engage in first gear or to get it into reverse once you were driving it switches gears OK I don’t have to be all the way to the floor to switch the gears it’s only in first and only when I’m switching to reverse so I don’t know what to do can you please help thank you love your channel
Literally me before my last vacation. Luckily none of those bolts snapped but one of the stupid coil plug clips broke. Got a couple zip ties holding it on now!
@@DLITINTHEHOUSE they are super easy to replace, I replaced all 8, and I was able to rebuild the connector by removing the wires from it, rather than cut and splice
This was me helping a buddy change plugs at my house. This won't take long! One of the boots broke apart during coil removal. Hope you got a pair of 10 inch needle nose pliers! Or some giant chopsticks
I just completed this job, all 8 bolts threaded out perfectly without any drama. Corrosion had started on numbers 3 and 7 just like the video shows. Mine is a 2011 XLT supercrew with the 5.0 and 81,000 miles.
I just wanted to thank mr.Ford tech.I’m a 65 yr old women and thanks to your clear instructions I changed out the window regulator on my Ford Expedition.You saved me a lot a money,which is tight at my age.Next week I’m tackling changing out the actuator with your videos help.So again Thank you and keep making videos you are helping a lot of people.
Well, now...had this same issue this past weekend, quick plug change...yeah right. Great tutorial and can't wait to get this put into practice later today.
I just learned on an older video that you were military. Just wanted to jump on your latest video and let yoh know my appreciation for your service. Take care. All original 07 expedition with 300k
I could not get the inserted piece to hold even after three tries. I eventually used a bolt with the head facing down and three nuts tightened up to the head which I heated and set in the valve cover (threads up). After cooling it was rigid and I tightened the coil down with another nut on the top side to secure it. Thanks For proving me the information I needed to make this fix.
I've been a Ford f150 owner since 2004 and you have helped me complete all my own repairs and maintenance!! Did all the oils in my driveway last year and no issues and was fun, everyone else thinks I'm nuts😅. Saved tons of money, means beer fund is doing well..... Love your channel!!!!!
Really appreciate this video! You saved me as I had no idea what to do. My back #8 broke off and I couldn't really even get a good vise grips in there. It took me a little longer than you but I got it and it is all back together good as new with stainless screws now! Thanks a lot!
I happen to have a bulk supply of those inserts from another job, and I've been fortunate for that. I've had to repair the customer damaged valve cover and install a new insert. I've seen melted, chiseled, and air hammered attempts. All suffering damaged covers. Great info and video on a good repair! 20 years doing driveability for Ford dealers has seen a lot. Good to know that there are other great technicians out there still willing to do the work that keeps us on the good side of the paying customer. Thank you for sharing!
Did this trick on my 6.2L F-250 today, after my induction heater arrived. Thank you for putting this video out there, to help folks. The intake for a 6.2 is not cheap!!! Buying the heater for this was half the cost of the manifold!!
Brilliant! , this technique has so many other uses where manufacturers put these inserts into plastic and they almost always seize up , thank you again
Wow, I was thinking the other day I should attempt to extract my broken #3 and #7 ignition boot bolts from a job 2 years ago. Didn't realize it was usually those two that broke, thanks. If you ever get one of the many knocking or ticking 5.0's, there's a ton of us that would love to finally see the fix/answer to that once and for all.
We use these inserts in the products we make. The brand we use are PEM inserts by Penn Engineering, just in case you may need to get some. I wouldn't be surprised that these are the brand that Ford uses in these covers.
Thanks!!! My Ford dealer broke my screw and never replaced it. There is nothing but dirt holding one of my coils down. 🙈 Hopefully, I have part of the screw sticking out.
nice tip.. also, if the insert wont hold, there are threaded inserts made by ez-lok, that have coarse outer threads, and machine threads inside. woodworkers use them... Love your channel... I have learned much from watching your videos.. You are a good guy!
Started watching your videos before I started working at this ford dealer 6 months ago. Was with GM for 7 years. Finally had to use this trick, worked great, saved me from having to replace valve cover and advisors having to call back extended warranty for added parts!! THANK YOU!!!
Thank you! I did not have a torch on hand but I did have a heat gun and it worked beautifully. Just have to heat the cover and the brass a little longer
Worked great! Tried to take out the first two bolts, and they snapped. Now What, just like the video said. Followed the steps, up and running, now off to Ford to probably way overpay for new coil bolts that don't do what their supposed to in the first place. I sprayed the other 6 with WD, let it soak in, and they came out with no issues. A very big thank you for posting this video!!!
Ford clearly does not want spark plugs changed. 97-03 too few threads in head. 03-08 spark plugs break in half. 09-14 ignition coil bolts break in half!
Great video, Brian. Looks like this fix would work with any car that has a plastic valve cover and metal inserts for the hold-down bolts. This is also a good reminder to put anti-seize on those bolts.
Induction heater solution is genius. Keep up the great work love this channel. I use to teach ASE techs for an OEM and you sir have great presentation skills and knowledge. Thanks.
Just traded my 2016 5.0, 83k miles and check engine light for VCT cylinoid under the vale cover. I was able to get the check engine light off by adding 100% petroleum Lucas oil. I bought the 2.7 f150, ill never go back! I'm so impressed with that little twin turbo. Great videos!
This!! This right here could have been very helpful on the last coyote tune up I did same issue #3 coil was the only one to break. Spent the better part of 30 minutes working the broken fastener out. The more you know.
On an unrelated topic Here’s a tip that may help if you have the problem I ran into. The problem was that the engine dip stick tube on my 2010 F150 4.6 3valve rusted out and I couldn’t get the dip stick in any more. The rust was worst where the tube passes the exhaust manifold. When I went to replace the tube it broke in three pieces with the stub end still stuck in the block and nothing left to pull the stub out with. After some thought I took a piece of 5/16 coarse thread threaded Rod about 4” long and locked two nuts together at the top and threaded it into the stub. The stub is swaged down just inside the block such that the threaded rod cuts into the inside and firmly attaches to the stub. You then take a 3/8 drive deep socket 16 mm size and place it over the threaded stud. Add two 5/16 flat washers and a 5/16 nut. Slowly turn the nut down the stud until the stub end is withdrawn from the block. The only other way to get the stud out would be to remove the oil pan which won’t come off unless you jack the engine up. Something you definitely want to avoid. anyway hope this helps anyone who runs into this problem.
What do you call KNOWLEDGEABLE and SUBSTANTIAL the answer is FordTechMakuloco Outstanding tutorial 👌 👏 👍 video Jaw breaking loved it 👌 👏 starts to finish 👏 👌 👍 thank you very much helpful .take care and have a great day FordTechMakuloco From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
The v10 Triton engines were the worst, had to buy a spark plain extraction tool for certain years because the non adjustable spark plugs had ends that either got stuck in the head or fell down and punched holes in the pistons
@The RealMathilda yes but it depends on where you get them ,you can also take the little diode out if the inside of them very easily , they usually fall out, stretch the spring a little and then put it back on just to see if it helps or not, a little road side trick I learned, you can get cheap ones on eBay, idk how good they are though
Also cover the upper suspension openings with a shield/barrier like the eco boost has to keep all the road spray out of the engine compartment. That’s the cause of all the under hood corrosion in the first place.
In the process of doing this to my Ram Promaster 3.6L V6.....Cylinders 2 and 4 are notorious. I purchased a used valve cover from the local junkyard and will extract and insert them into the valve cover on my van. When I post my (how-to) on a Promaster, I will cite your video!!!! THANKS
Thank you so much, this actually worked like a charm! Used the mini torch and took a while because I was so nervous to melt more of the valve cover. Took the time to anti-seize the other 7 while things were cooling!
Bravo - Pretty cool fix. Just a reminder not to remove the spark plug until this repair is completed. Unless you close off the spark plug tube, there is a risk of dropping something down the hole. Could make for a very bad day......
You do good work.....good techniques, imagination, organized thoughts , logical and sensible explanations......easy to understand and remember.....rgds, fm
The real question is, Do you even need something holding down your coil? Some brands don't use anything but the tight fit in the hole, and the boot grabing the plug. This did happen to my 2011 years ago and I rigged a bracket, seated into one of the empty holes. Your method much cleaner, especially for a customer's car.
I've never had that problem with the 5.0's, however I've had the issue multiple times on the 3.5's in the transit vans, always in bank 2. Usually the insert spins out before the bolt breaks though. I'll have to remember this for the next one.
Also making up some rubber inner fenders really helps, it a shame ford didn't do it from the factory to keep water and mud off the engine. First thing I did to mine and the top of the engine is still nice and clean.
Exactly how I have done them in the past. However sometimes the insert is too far gone to salvage, in those cases I would use Fusor Epoxy to glue a M5 nut into the insert hole. Have to limit the torque on the bolt as the nut doesn't quite have the surface area to hold it in place as the brass insert does.
@@jamesplotkin4674 Yep that would work well also. Just be sure to apply a good coat of anti seize to the whole surface of the stud after epoxied in place. In some cases I had the head of the factory bolt snap off but the coil was seized onto the shank of the bolt. It will break off the mounting ear of the coil if you are not careful. Had to apply heat and pull the coil off it's metal insert.
@@blainebennett I have a love-hate emotional bond with Ford, but this is another (of several) situations which are totally avoidable. I'd hate to have to spend all day on this if several bolts broke and all I want to do is replace plugs. Sound familiar?
Glad I don't live in rust belt. We don't have these issues here in Arkansas. I have family in Ohio, after they moved there, car from here fell apart in about year or so. Much respect to y'all who deal with this daily. And I do have mini ductor, too
Cant begin to thank you enough and also i was hoping that you may have some specific videos about the 4.6 liter police terceptor again thanks a million your videos are informative and easy to follow and learn from....
"Genius Loyd, shear genius!" Just overtired pulled one out on coil cover Lincoln 3.9, of course the drivers rear... LOL Thanks I would have never thought of this. Just needed 10:50 on... Not going to freak out now when come across this, I've seen wood etc holding coils on...
You could also take a 3D pen and add a little more plastic on the inside there to add a little more for it to grip on to. I do a similar repair on laptops.
Brian, thank you for another great tip. I think I'll remove all of my bolts and anti seize them. Hopefully they are not like the vehicle you were working on!
Hey great job is always I enjoy your channel keep up the good work forward power all the way I know they all had their issues without a doubt I've been a Ford man my whole life I've worked with them all and I just don't think there's a better truck then forward and I'm so glad you got rid of your Dodge lol good luck with the new
Lol same thing for me. Coil bolt on # 4 snapped right off at the head. So pissed off of course it's the back one. Going to try to get it out on my next day off. I wish Ford used stainless bolts or just designed it so the screws could have plastic covers. Bad engineering if you ask me.
The best treatment for SMALL burns is to hold ice cubes on them for a while. Keep applying the ice until the pain subsides. Begin the ice as soon as you can after the burn happens. Obviously, large burns need immediate hospital emergency room visits, with professional medical care. I'm talking about a burn from grabbing something hot. You may be wondering how I discovered that. Well, decades ago, after cutting a 1/4 inch thick X 1 inch wide piece of steel with an oxyacetylene torch, I foolishly tried to carry it, and the torch, a few yards. The steel slipped, and the still hot end landed on my arm. Surprisingly, although I smelled burned flesh, I felt little pain at the instant it happened. But I knew what was coming, so I ran inside the building I was working on, grabbed an ice cube, and applied it to the burned spot. I kept doing it until the pain subsided. When it would start burning again, I would hit it with another ice cube. After a while, and several melted ice cubes, the burning sensation stopped. Even though the wound took a couple of weeks to heal, the discolored spot was barely visible. And I didn't have to endure hours of painful burning. The best part of the story is that I was installing burglar bars, for free, on a Knights of Columbus building when it happened.
First aid/hospitals/doctors suggest against ice on burns as it can cause further damage. Run Cold water for 15 min instead. Repeat, will help with pain also
@@LA-TEEZI No doubt cold water would have been better, but I didn't have time to mix up any, as I wanted to stop the pain before it got too severe. As to the damage, I was surprised at the faint mark the burn left. It oozed clear liquid for quite a few days, due to the skin having been damaged quite a bit. I could see a faint mark there for years afterward. But today, I can no longer see it. I'm not sure why it disappeared, since I could see it for at least a decade after the burn healed. Enough skin cells must have survived to prevent scaring. The only cold water coming out of the tap in Louisiana is during the 3 winter months. During most of the year, it feels warm, unless you shower with it.
