Crack all 4 fuel line nozzle nuts at one time . Pump the lever on the mechanical lift pump , this will fill the fuel filter , injection pump , and the fuel lines . After fuel leaches out of the fuel lines , tighten fuel line nuts . Half throttle and start . You may have to bump engine over to position fuel pump lever to pump . Good Video .
Thanks Steve for going the extra mile when no one else seems to know the real root cause. I am having the same symptoms and I will use your method to see if that's what happening to me as well
Steve… I owe you a beer, ran out of fuel today in the rain. Couldn’t get my 2600 going until I saw this video. Didn’t want to leave it outside overnight and this video got it going. Thanks again! 😎
Thanks, it’s alway helpful to film & ID specially the EXACT fittings your referring to for us novices your intending to help, that way we know exactly what your doing , why , & how to get a successful fuel bleed. Respectfully
Haha came here after sorting my fueling issue, with complimentary fist pump i returned to the house 10 feet tall, my issue was a little water and i need to replace fuel caps and now battery it seems, oh well it's all part of the fun.
Nice video... I have a JD 1630 that needs air bleeding, wish me luck.. What I like here is that you put a bucket under the pump while you are bleeding... That shows care for environment, like that.
Bring it to me Sir, and I’ll give you your money back… lol… I just got a 5000 Automatic trans. Having Alita problem with it leaking water somewhere over the rainbow…Thank you for being hard headed and consistent, like me…you fixed her…
Hey man. We have a 3000, and we have to put oil in the injection pump separately from the crank case. It's independent. I noticed yours was a little dry.
thanks as I'm stuck in this place, started with lets change fuel filter, then fuel pump that you can pump up system wow got much better flow now, but stops at injector pump. i will try what you just did as a i have a 272 same tractor i know need get air out but so darn tricky to do
Get you a suction brake bleeder that you can hook up to your air compressor. I think they're around 20 bucks at harbor freight. Works great for bleeding the air out and you don't have to deal with the headaches of cracking this nut on the filter housing , cracking this nut on the pump etc. I don't like cracking nuts.
Did u know there's a cold start feature on those 5000s u push that small button in on the stop leaver it moves the rack further forward giving access fuel to start ...hey u got there in the end well done ..
Worked at ford tractor dealership 34 years went on hundreds of service calls very first thing I’d check is fuel flow from fuel tank , ford had a great nylon strainer attached to fuel shut off pressed in but after many years they would wiggle out. These old fords were great tractors
Hi I'm having a similar issue, there's a small rubber pipe pressed into the fuel shutoff tap and I noticed it sort of coming off at one side, would this be the reason for not getting fuel up? And could I just press it in further or will I need a new unit?
I did a stupid thing this winter when I put my 4500 away for the season . I SHUT OF THE DIESEL AT THE TANK . BECAUSE i HAD A SMAL LEAK AT THE PUMP . Now it will not start so tomorrow its my turn to bleed , hope it works .
I’m having a fuel problem as well right now and will try this. But my question is if you’re changing the oil in the injection pump but can’t get the top fill hole off what does one do??
After taking that side cover off and moving the rack back and fourth with a screwdriver blade a few times, it loosened up. Clean diesel can help things loosen up too.
@@stevewatr Thank you sir! I have a Ford 2000 (early to mid 70's model, I think) that I'm having to replace the lift pump on. Do you think the procedures you use on this 5000 are similar to the one's I'll have to use to bleed my system?
My OCD is killing me! Please take those hood knobs off and turn them a quarter turn so they lay horizontal when the hood is latched! While you are at it, please cut off that extra foot of fuel shutoff cable that sticks out past the injector pump, just waiting to get caught in the fan. Little details, but it feels so much better then things are right.
You need a remote starter trigger since you are working by yourself then while turning over the motor you tighten the injectors when they getting fuel to keep air out. It's a pain I know. I have a 7.3 lol
Awesome upload sir. We recently got an ebro super 55 and it ran high rpm no throttle responds then died. Fuel dripped down the filter so i think it sucked air into the system. Trying to bleed the starter selonoid died. Did order filter and start relais. When bleeding did you have full throttle to have maximum fuelflow? Again thanks.
You needed to bleed the pump after filter 2 nuts above the cover Then open the injector line at the injector end Also push in excess fuel button Ian x agricultural engineer in 70s /80s cut my teeth on these tractors 👍👍👍👍
I’ve got all the same symptoms you’re tractor had or has. I’ll be back out there this weekend working on it. I wonder where you’re supposed to add the oil to the injector pump! , Where he had the plate off , freeing up the cut off bar..???
There is a drain plug on the bottom near the end that mounts on engine. Filler plug is a big plug on top. level plug on side. remove drain plug to drain oil, install drain plug, remove level plug, add oil in filler plug until it flows out the level plug, about 5 ounces. install level plug, and fill plug. Do not be surprised to find diesel fuel draining instead of oil. Do not over tighten these plugs! Housing is only aluminum.
I have a 1985 340B . I changed the fuel filter and have air in line. I want to fill the filter case with diesel to remove air. Should work, don’t you think?
Ebay seller "reliableaftermarketpartsinc" I paid $24 last October, looks like they are now $39.99. I have a Playlist for this tractor where you can find the video of me replacing it and putting it on backwards lol.
@@stevewatr The cut off slide under the injector cap is directly connected to the push pull cable. Im glad you didn"t get the injector pump overhauled. If you did not lubricate it well it will stick again. Spray the slide with a good lubricate, i like Hilco Lube, and work it back and forth until it slides easily. Congratulations!
Never use starting fluid! Because it will get addicted to starting fluid! So use the gas rag, by getting a clean rag and putting gas on it and hold it over the breather. You will need someone to turn the starter key, but it will start right up, every time…
From years of sitting, the old diesel fuel turns into some pretty nasty stuff. I now suspect that the previous owner was running #2 heating oil to save money instead of diesel. Just working the rack back and forth with a screwdriver a few times seemed to free it up. The fresh clean diesel will act as a solvent and help. A diesel additive will be my next step this spring. I will be starting the tractor for the first time in 2022 soon, so we'll see how it faired over the winter.
@@stevewatr I know I'm 6 months late to the party, but as Mike Hammer said in the replies. There is a "cold start" enrichment feature on the Simms pump. You move throttle to full, push button in on the side of the shutoff handle, roll back throttle to 1/4 travel. Start engine and once started the enrichment disengages automatically.
@@diegoreza878 Thank you for the information, but this was a little more involved. The rack inside the pump was stiuck due to bad fuel from sitting so many years.
I stopped mine on a sight incline, and it wouldn't start when I went to Crank it over ... I'm hoping I can fill up the tank and avoid bleeding the system 😅
In my case it was difficult to get it going because I had the added problem of a sticking fuel rack from the tractor sitting so long without running. In your case, it should be easier to get going. But at the very least, bleed the lines up to the inlet on the injector pump using the hand pump lever on the lift pump, Good luck, happy tractoring.
I’m a man of many talents . Sadly mechanic isn’t one of them . I can replace parts all day long , change oil , clutch or simple things , but if something isn’t running and has fuel in it 🤦🏻♂️. Past gas fire and compression … someone else is taking care of it
I assume you mean the hard lines to the injectors, since you cannot see if the injectors are spraying fuel into the cylinders. Keep in mind, the high pressure fuel coming out of the injector lines is dangerous, keep your flesh away! you can use a piece of cardboard if you are having trouble seeing the fuel. usually just loosening the lines at the injectors allows you to see if fuel is getting to that point.
@@stevewatr thanks for the info I found the problem it’s the rack that moves the springs to adjust the fuel the rack is stuck and I can get it to break free.
