Just had this problem on my 99.5 F350, You can just unplug the fuel bowl heater connector on the backside of the fuel bowl and replace the 30 Amp fuse. And drive while you wait to replace the new fuel bowl heater element. Dont do this if you are in a very cold climate as it will not heat the filter if it is gelled.
I have an early '99 7.3 and had this happen a while ago. I replaced mine with a 99.5 version because it's a solid piece of metal as opposed to a thin piece soldered to a disk. I haven't had a problem since.
Thank you Thoroughbred Diesel....I'm not a mechanic and your instructions made this job a piece of cake. I did install a different heating element I purchased from RockAuto (DORMAN 904210 This Dorman OE FIX replacement diesel fuel heating element matches the function and performance of the original equipment part. Made of quality materials, it has undergone extensive testing to ensure durability. Features & Benefits: Upgraded replacement - this diesel fuel bowl heating elements features more reliable technology Ensures performance - updated ceramic design maintains a lasting electric connection Direct fit - reverse engineered from original equipment for seamless installation Quality engineering - designed and tested in the United States ) I hope it lasts....thanks again.
Or just unplug the the pigtale for the fuel heat on the back of the bowl itl run with out it long as your glow plug relay is good and your glow plugs are up to par. Mines been unplugged and taped off for years now
Does anyone notice a difference having the fuel heater working vs not??? I can't imagine these fuel heaters do anything significant unless it's really cold and the fuel starts to gel.
I went to install one, saw it was already updated and changed my fuel pressure regulator spring to a blue one and now it fires instantly and has 85 lbs of fuel pressure.
I'm currently stranded at an RV park. I have a 97 powerstroke E350. I think my fuel bowl heating element is shorting out. I keep blowing the number 8 position 30A fuse. I really wish I could locate the external connector or wire that powers the element. If I could just disable it I could probably start the engine. I have 120V at the RV park to heat the engine with the block heater. If I could just disable it I could start the engine get it warm and just not let it get cold ( keep it running) till I get home. Wish I could find the external wire that powers it.
Working kn a 95 International 4700 with this 7.3 Motor, and can't for the life of me find that Fuse! Some say its a #22 , Sone Say #4- I've Flipped out Almost ALL OF them. Wondering if theres a Relay I might be missing😒
I got a 99 7.3 when it starts fine I’m the am once warm after letting idle I’ll get in and drive down the road and it’ll bogg then shut off and pop that fuse would this be the problem? New to diesel and it’s been driving me nuts for days Thanks
I have a 97 f250 7.3 truck was running fine til one day didnt want to start. I thought it was the cps so I changed it and then it turned back on ran like 40 mins on and then turn it off try to turn back on and no wait to start light came on. Now the truck just cranks but doesnt want to run. I think is the fuel bowl heater going to change it but can someone tell me where is this 30 fuse location?
I really liked your video. I’m not much for being a diesel mechanic although gas engines I can deal with. I’m learning. I watched this video thinking I had the same problem. I’m glad I watched it. But it wasn’t my problem. I knew as soon as you said if the wait light is not on then the fuse is blown. My light was on clear to the tone to start. It would crank and crank but nothing. I was down to 1/4 tank of fuel. I put another 5 gal of fuel in and charged my batteries. A couple hours later I tried it and it started instantly but I’m baffled. Anybody have any brilliant ideas? Oh I don’t have a fuse 30 mine go to 29 unless 30 is hidden somewhere else. Just for future reference. My truck is 2001 f250.
Quick question, my fuel bowl heater is attached to that rod and the whole rod is a plastic bolt and the head of the bolt is under the saucer, how do you you take it off it doesnt have the 2 t20 screws
I have a question. I order the second element you showed in the video (the one you didn't use), and my truck has the first one that you replaced in it. Will the second one that you did not use, still work in my truck?
You can take a die grinder to the ribs inside the fuel canister to fit the newer element. It will never come loose and ground out. By the way, the new one is much cheaper.
The connector in my heater element is broken off it's solder points and just flops around in there but still connected. Truck won't start for nothing, I changed out my fuel pump and rebuilt the fuel bowl and it's doing the same thing. Safe to say I need a new element?
I have a 2002 F350 dually 7.3 the truck doesn't start unless the block heater has been plugged and I'm looking for a solution, any idea? Thanks in advance
I think that MAYBE this is related to my problem, but what happens with my 97 F-250 0s that it will run fine for about 30-45 minutes, shut down unexpectedly. When I turn the key on to attempt a restart, the glow plug light will either be out or will flicker rapidly. I tried using my code reader(All my fuses are good) and if the truck is running it will shut down when the code reader tries to communicate. If the truck is off with the key on, the code reader does not communicate with the PCM. Anyone have any ideas? I am stumped. I am going to replace the heater just to see what happens, but this is odd.
@@texasobs_73esquivel94 its a 95. And the fuse is in the fuse box under the hood. I think it is maxi fuse. Number 23, or 26 cannot remember but im sure there's a diagram somewhere that will tell you. Its the fuse for the PCM
okay so I have a question. It's probably a silly question. so I have a 99 E350 with the 7.3 liter diesel and I'll tell you what it's a pain to change the water separator valve because it was leaking as far as I can tell that was the leak but I haven't been able to start my van again yet because I think I damaged the heating element when I change the fuel filter. when I looked in the bowl I saw the heating element it looked like the soldered spots had come loose. So I tried to Soldier it is this the wrong thing to do? also I lost my wait to start light. And it first I thought maybe it was because instead of taking the turbo and the entire intake off I took the bracket that holds the relay for the glow plugs off. But I didn't do any wires and I don't believe I damaged any wires moving them around. so I'm hoping that I blew the fuse instead and if I replace the fuse maybe to work but if not then I'll have to replace the heating element. There are people who are doing mods or are putting basically a different-looking heating element in there that looks like part of a coil from an electric stove. they say they get that from International for much cheaper like $33 is that something that I can put on my van?
First thing to do is to go through all of your fuses and figure out if anything is blown. Once that is repaired, for now, just disconnect the fuel heater element at the fuel bowl, and get your van back running. Once you have it running, change the element and you should be good to go.
