Ford C6 Teardown and Inspection (Full-length Version) 

Thank you for the kind words, Devin! I appreciate the feedback and glad my vids will help you in your rebuild. Feel free to ask questions as you go...One thing I'll recommend is to purchase a thrust washer kit...The kit contains all new thrust washers to replace your pre-existing ones and also comes with a few different thicknesses of selective pump stator washer, which you may need if your case travel is outside of the .008-.044 range. I have another C6 video dedicated to measuring and adjusting case travel where I go into detail about this aspect of the process, in case you haven't seen it yet: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CQrpw_ggL_8.html

@@nickstransmissions thank you! My transmission is pretty messed up as it was a flood truck, so I'm probably in for some hard parts. But I will definitely do my best to make sure that end play is in a good range👍

You're welcome, man...Please sub if you haven't already as I'll be publishing more C6 videos over the next week, this way you'll be notified once they're available.

Thanks, Daniel - appreciate the kind words!

You're welcome, JB and thank you for watching! check out my C6 reassembly video series if you haven't already as I go through step by step on reassembly. I also have valve body disassembly/reassembly videos as well and will be posting some topic-specific videos on the C6 starting tomorrow that will be helpful for you as well.

Thanks for watching, STKshift - glad it was able to help you!

You bet, Kevin!

Thanks for watching, John! Glad my videos helped you navigate through your C6 rebuild.

Hey Mike, can you do me a favor: simply hit 'reply' to my comment instead of starting a whole new comment..Helps keep everything in one thread. Thank you!

Good morning Nick I have a question from one of your other videos, the one about upgrading the C6, concerning the valve body. The casting number on the valve body is 1967 (C7), the casting number on the transmission housing is (1975),D5. Should I be concerned about that?

Good morning, Mike - it shouldn't be a concern as both of those years, 1967 and 1975 are within what I refer to as Generation 1 C6s....That said, you'll want to make sure the low reverse piston has the bleeder ball capsule as the 1967 valve body will not have a check ball for low reverse nor a provision to add one. Is your valve body a 'clicker' style valve body where the detents for your gear shifts are in the valve body itself or does the transmission have the detent roller bolted to the case?

Thank you for watching and the kind words, fckyoutube!

Hi Peter, you're correct...Late 1976 was the change year to the low reverse hydraulic circuit where they updated the VB, gaskets and spacer plate to serve as exhaust/vent and eliminated the bleeder capsule in the low reverse piston. There was a whole slew of changes made to the C6 during that mid-lifecycle update that impacted nearly every area of the transmission...Folks working on a model year 1976 need to pay special attention to the date codes and parts they're working with in the event hard parts have to be replaced. Great tip re the quarter-inch check ball to prevent governor sticking, thank you for sharing!

Thank you for watching, Alberto!

Thank you, Mike! Greatly appreciate the support🍺! I have another C6 Teardown, this one is an an older unit like yours - may be worth checking out if you haven't seen it already: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3AXCf0jCcZg.html

Thanks, man - yea, that one was a stumper insofar as exactly where that lever comes from.

You're welcome, Mike...Do not buy any parts until you watch this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-F0nwWuIPydA.html Add the following parts to what you see in the video: 1. Alto Power Pack - Forward Drum 2. Prioritize finding a 4 or 5 clutch direct drum and install Alto power pack (6-8 clutches, .020-.025 clearance) 3. 4R100 Gear set swap to wide ratio gears - gives you a much deeper first gear to get a heavy vehicle moving more effectively 4. "E" band ratio lever 5. Alto Red wide intermediate band 6. Sonnax large ratio boost valve kit - you'll need to determine if your boost valve is a 1st or 2nd design...Design changes took place in mid-1976. Easiest way to differentiate the two would be how the boost valve is retained in the valve body...The first design is held in place via a cover plate and three small bolts while the 2nd design has no cover plate and is retained via a clip. This should get you started, post any parts related questions in the comments section of the video linked above so others can also view them (they won't be as likely come to this vid for information on parts).

@mikebonham4530 - put all your replies here (simply hit 'reply' to this comment) - thank you!

Hi Michael, thank you for the kind words and view. I'd suspect the forward drum's lip seals are likely very worn and perhaps a bit hardened...No big deal if you're going to be going back through the unit, all those lip seals get replaced with new ones in your overhaul kit.

Thank you for watching, Captainschannel!

Hi Jon, send it back if it's defective. Never knowingly install a bad part. Start an "item not a described" case if the seller wont voluntarily return/exchange it.

Thanks, man!

How did it end up at the bottom of the pan?

I pulled the pan and there it was looking at me. Was not sure where it came from till I started to remove pump and saw the lever was broken and that piece fit perfectly. My first transmission repair! Where can I get a replacement code “B” on lever. Thanks to you I have the confidence to attempt this repair.

Lever was broken laying in pan I can’t seem to post a picture of it.

Oh, man - sorry to here that it broke....Does the transmission have large aftermarket servo installed or just the stock servo? Check with Transpartswarehouse.com - they should have replacement band levers. If not, you should be able to find some on eBay. Thank you for watching and for the kind words, Mike!

Hi Daniel, film a short youtube video, publish it and reply back with the sharable link so I can take a look.

@nickstransmission ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ssO6g2iCYr4.htmlsi=vrKZTkTm6ANQ8IjC

@@nickstransmissions I have tried to post this several times and it keeps getting taken down. I hope this one stays up. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ssO6g2iCYr4.html

GM Daniel, I watched the video...The scratch marks inside the case are no big deal...The drums aren't out of balance but I cannot tell of those brownish stains are heat related or due to water contamination (they sort of resemble rust spots) as you were moving the camera way too fast over those areas. When filming, it's best to put the camera on a tripod, angle it so it faces down onto the bench then slowly display the parts you're wanting to film so that viewers can get a good look at everything. If they are heat related, especially the areas on the forward drum and you can see heat soaking on a good majority of the surface, I'd prob replace the forward drum...The direct drum's band surface can be sanded down with 400 grit sand paper sheets. Just put the drum on a towel and work the sheet back and forth along the surface until you de-glaze it...Then take a small straight edge with a flashlight and place the straight edge across the band surface. Then shine the flashlight on the opposite side - determine if you can see light poking through underneath the straight edge. If you can, the drum surface is warped and would need to be turned (or replaced with a non-warped drum). You also need to look at the crescent on the pump body - check to make sure it's not worn or damaged in any way...Then check the stator and pump body working surfaces for scoring or anything else unusual. Replace your flat steels with a new steel module along with your frictions, paper/rubber/gaskets, etc, bushings, vacuum modulator...Purchase the E4OD low roller clutch assembly and install that in place of the C6 roller assembly, which is located in the low-reverse clutch hub. Hope this helps!

@@nickstransmissions in your video you stated that you could put the E40D clutches in to beef up your transmission. Do you mind throwing me a link for those parts so that I can get them?

Sounds like a sweet build, William! Thank you for watching!

K lever is a late model factory lever, 1.575:1 ratio.

Thank you for the info, Greg. Appreciate it.

The diesels had a semi-circle cut out at the bottom of the bell housing...If i didnt specify that in the vid, it's a miss on my part.

@@nickstransmissions The bolt pattern is diffrent

Ok, thanks...I may just remove that section from the vid and clear / remove this comment so viewers aren't confused...Thanks, Kevin.

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