Yea you still have to change your oil with not too many miles synthetic sludges smooth regular oil sludges lumpy. When I would tear down engines would find that out . I'm not paying the difference have had no engine issues. Done
Dude after 3-4 awesome EcoBoost motor equipped vehicles ...I ONLY use full synthetic oil & motorcraft filter. Ur golden . Millions of Ford truck lovers will agree. THEY ARE WRONG.
Guess that saleman didnt see the torture test vid with live engine break down to see what if anything happened to it..That vid was out yrs ago..They took a f150 eb off the assembly line and ran the guts outta it ..Race track,hauled logs outta the woods and a bunch more stuff that i now forget but they hammered it...Final results was typical engine wear nothin wild or extreme in any way..
I ran full synthetic the entire time I had my EcoBoost. Not a single issue. Penzoil ultra platinum and usually a wix or mobil 1 filter. $50~ and changed it myself. Easy 30 min job.
@gregatron4528 I sold the truck in 2019 @ 77k miles. Everything pretty much ran great for the time I had the truck. I had a misfire once and CEL once, but that was more related to the intercooler.
I run full synthetic oil in everything I own, have for a lot of years. I’ve had the dealership change it, as well as done it myself. I have never had my dealership tell me not to use the full synthetic.
took my car to walmart and brought them my own oil. They put in their crap in and kept my bottle unopened up on the counter. Said to me that they used my oil. That was the last time I hired someone to work on my car.
hope u didnt use that junk when your engine was in the break in period should of used what the owners manual called for otherwise shit didnt seat right
@@tybalee he stated in the beginning of the video he has a 3.5 EcoBoost. Lol. I looked up the reasons why you shouldn't use synthetic. It doesn't happen in everyone's trucks. But there were reports that synthetic was making the valves chatter after some time. Which can obviously cause damage.
Im not fond with a blend...To me its like changeing 4 new spark( in an 8 cyl) plugs and just leaveing originals in no matter how good or bad they are..
There are mechanics who claim to have observed negative effects of extended oil change intervals claimed by synthetic oil advocates. Also synthetic oil sometimes stops the breaking in of the rings. Synthetic oil is more stable at higher temperatures than conventional oil. Personally, I use synthetic in my cars, and when I see color in the oil on the dipstick, I change it. I did run a 1994 Accord from new with conventional oil and synthetic blend oil for years, and it finally gave up the ghost at 550,000 miles.
Hey I have used synthetic oil in one of my work trucks after a break in period with regular oil specified by manufacturer. The trucks are on a regular maintenance program with our shop. I really didn’t see any outstanding benefits of using full synthetic oils over conventional ones. Proper maintenance is the key.
The most important thing you can do, no matter what oil you use is to do the first interval oil change on or before the recommended change interval since that will contain the microscopic metal particles from the initial break- in. Crude base oils deteriorate faster than synthetics whether full or a blend. There was an in depth article written by an independent master H.D. mechanic, for American Iron motorcycle magazine. I refer to the article because oil maintenance in air cooled Harley engines is more critical due to the wide fluctuations of temperatures that water-cooled engines normally do not experience. One of the stated facts was that crude oils begi breaking down their protective additives around 240 degrees and synthetics don't do that until about 270 degrees. Making the arguement that synthetics are better than crude oils. Most water-cooled vehicles today generally run around 200 to 220 degrees which aids in more efficient fuel burning and less emissions. But the extended change intervals of synthetics are partly due to the higher temperature protection of the additives. I believe that after the break-in that synthetics are superior protection, they are slippier and reduce friction, which equals reduced heat. The only time I would hesitate using synthetic is if a high mileage engine has always run crude base oil and then you swapped to synthetic you will possibly experience an increase in the synthetic dissipating because there is a higher wear factor in the lubricated parts from the long term use of crudes.
No car or truck manufacturers use break-in oil. That happened back in the 50's when engines were a lot different. I would make your first oil change sooner than your normal change interview, however. I would change it in about 2000-5000 miles to remove any metal particles or chips that might have occurred during the beginning of engine operation. Also, it is important to vary engine speed frequently during the first 500 miles to help seat piston rings and other parts. Also, it is important to be easy on the brakes to break them in right and to prevent excessive rotor and pad wear in the future.
The dealer didn't tell me to not use synthetic oil , but the owners manual that came with my truck says to use synthetic blend. I use synthetic blend from Motorcraft.
I believe these cars can use either synthetic blend or full synthetic. They mention both Motorcraft formulas with the same Ford Spec number. My recollection is that my dealer offers the choice of either one; the full synthetic is more expensive.
As far as break-in, the factory fill is supposed to protect against excessive heat and "glazing" of the cylinder walls unlike regular non break-in oil. But once the rings have broken in nicely, the oil should be there with sufficient film strength for eliminating friction metal-to-metal and proper cooling. Ford seem to be the masters of designed obsolescence and therefore I would suspect anything they told me. Friction is not good. But I have heard of two problems from some synthetic oils for certain cars: Gasket weep and lack of carbon which for some rings is apparently beneficial to combustion chamber sealing. In conclusion, if a clean, strong oil did not work well in a new engine then I would say there is something wrong with that engine.
I own several vehicles. One of my back up vehicles is a 2003 Ford Explorer that I bought new. I changed to Mobil 1 at 700 miles. It now has 227k miles. Runs quiet and smooth. Has plenty of power. Does Ford know they have a crazy lying dealer????? My current primary vehicle is a 2016 diesel that REQUIRES Full Synthetic.
I’ve never heard the term “engine isn’t proven”. They used to say until the rings have seated but that should happen by a few thousand miles. It seems to me they are just trying to find an excuse to blame the owner. If a good synthetic oil is a problem the problem isn’t the oil!
I would say the first 500 miles for break in, no full throttle and not over 65mph. Then use synthetic and forget it until your oil change light comes on, on occasion check the oil level and color to be sure it's not prematurely getting diluted from running to rich which happened on our Kia, we could never use annual oil because it had to be changed by about 7k no matter what synthetic we used.
Wow, I never heard a dealership say that. But after break-in miles. Full synthetic is best. Especially a turbo engine. I had a 89 F150 with 5.0. I change the oil with regular oil 2000-2500 mile. Full synthetic oil about 5000 miles. I had 289k miles sold it. Motor was still clean, no keaks. Sitting outside I just waxed it 4x per year no rust.
My two cents worth, I have a 2015 Chevy Silverado crew cab with the 5.3 V8 AFM engine, that I purchased used with 20k miles on her, I took my truck to the dealer to have my routine service maintenance performed and I always requested full synthetic oil placed into the engine, and each time I ask, the dealer serviceman, what did they put in her, they told me, they placed synthetic oil in the engine. Long story short, after the last oil change, my truck started running sluggish, and I started hear more engine noise than usual, a lot of ticking, or piston slapping, and the oil indicator said the oil has 60% of life left and at the same time my MPG was dropping like crazy. After researching what could be the problem, I discovered the majority of drivers used Full Synthetic oil without issue, so I decided to not go back to the dealer for oil changes, I'll do it myself, and WOW what a difference. I used Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic, and a Purolator Boss oil filter, and now my MPG's is steadily climbing, it went from (9.3 -to 12.6) mpg, and this is just city driving. I believe you can't go wrong using Full Synthetic oil, it has way better properties than conventional or synthetic blend oils, and you get way longer service intervals with full Synthetic. My opinion, don't trust the dealer service like I did, go with what you know is Right.. Full Synthetic oil all the way, your engine will thank you for it!!!!!!!!!
Stay with motorcraff synthetic blend .my 1998 mustang gt run it whole life now 260000miles .I switch one to full synthetic mobile 1 ...the same viscosity 5w30 it leaks crazy ..switch back to synthetic blend 1 week after. Use only motorcraff synthetic blend if you own Ford.if you love your engine(I know you're) change your oil 1000 mile sooner than recommended and enjoy😁
@@DS-TRUCKS just leave that to the FORD GT .basically full synthetic design for high performance vehicle. Just like Gatorade and water..not a sport guy? Stick with water.
I'm 65 and have had many vehicles, the worst service and the most BS has always occurred at the dealerships. I've used synthetic oils for 25 yrs without problems.
Ive had the opposite experience. No matter where i go, independent shops have been mostly scam artists. The worst was a transmission failure in my outback after a cv axle change. Was impossible to prove but it was pretty telling when the dealership quoted me 700 dollars cheaper to replace the tranny than the shop that im 99% sure fucked up my car on the post-cv install test drive. Not to mention when dealerships give u a loaner car it actually works. Got stranded by the loaner car from the independent shop due to the engine overheating from 5 under the speedlimit normal driving.
Ok I bought a 350 Chevy crate motor for my pickup..I ran regular Valvoline for the first 2 oil changes..after that I ran Valvoline and mixed in 2 quarts of full synthetic..I mudded that truck hard for the next 2 years then sold it to my brother in law..He mudded it and drove it to work daily..20 miles one way for close to 5 years..blew a head gasket.tore it down and called to come look at it.You could still see the marks in the cylinders from the factory with no ridge on top..Bearings and crank looked new..My 4runner I run Mobil 1..put new filter add one quart at 5,000 miles..change it out at 10,000 miles..350,000 plus on a 04 4.0 V6..
I always follow what my computer says. When it says change oil soon i change the oil period ! My engines have lasted 250K plus miles on all my ford trucks and have never had any engine problems. I always use Full synthetic oil but that's just me.
As a Ford tech , that is BS . I had a service manager that was a pencil pusher and did not know anything about an engine. If you think that the oil application is what is on the oil cap you are wrong. It was put there for the all around preferred for the whole US . Read your owners manual and it tells you what you should use for your climate. He argued with me so I knew the tech line number to Ford and made him look like a ignorant little boy. Synthetic oil only way to go.
Dah faq!? I've had the dealership do a full synthetic change, they didn't say anything. Also, i called three different dealerships (two metro Detroit and one out of town) to find out what transfer case fluid to use...three different answers. Eventually, I tracked down the current fluid via forums and old mercon#...TL;DR.... dealerships are weird.
Conventional vs Synthetic Oil Should you use synthetic oil in your engine? Simply put, it is a superior product. The only detractor is price, but that can be mitigated by the extended service intervals. Many vehicles don’t need an oil change for 10,000 or 15,000 miles. This is from Blue Springs Ford website!
10k oil changes are absurd. 5k maximum as most people are actually running their vehicle hard. Stop and go city driving IS running a vehicle hard and that is 80% of what people do with their vehicle. Long term ownership will become a massive headache if you change every 10k miles. Prolly can get away with it until about 100k but after that the internal wear will start to show its face and its prolly the reason most people have so many problems with new vehicles.
Full synthetic is a misconception. True synthetic oil has no crude in it it’s a PAO. The only full PAO base synthetic oil is amsoil. With the exception of pennzoil with is made from natural gas. PAO oils are pure and molecule chains are the exact same size and shape so in theory there is a perfect layer of lubrication with no dry spots. Other synthetic oils are made from hydrocracked crude. The crude is ultra refined giving it better properties. The FTC said because hydrocracking crude gives it properties of synthetic it can be marketed as such. As far as synthetic blends I’m not sure what fords standards are but GM dexos1 standard requires oil to be 50% synthetic. I think when Valvoline durablend came out it was a 25% synthetic blend.
Wow interesting..my ford dealer said it good to use fords full synthetic oil ..yes it costs more..they carry it . So to me ..its worth it..like u i use it in all my fords..i own my 2008 ford .i use it ..no issues in my engine. My 2020. F150. I use it ..its an upgrade oil..ford told me..after the break in period..go for it...i own 3 fords also havea 2016 Ford fusion...i run ford full synthetic ..too
I agree. They are miserable mechanics in dealerships and I don't know why. They work 9-5 no weekends. What miserable life. Losers. Glad I'm an automotive technician But with all the warranty and etc I still don't use them for my oil change.
Stop your not inspector gadget i have a 2008 ford focus it has 396.567thousand miles on it same tranz same motor. Only used motor craft synthetic blend 5 20since new .car runs great .so plz stop with the area51 shit..
I always run full synthetic mobile 1 in all my trucks. One 2003 f250 v10 with 277,000 miles. 2008 f250 v10 with 180,000. And a 2011 eco boost with only 33,000 miles. Never gave us one issue. I have also seen high mileage ecoboost from 2011 that have 200,000 miles or more and use full synthetic. That dealership is bs.
I always used full synthetic on all my vehicles new or used but if I owned an ecoboost engine I definitely recommend using full synthetic cuz turbo engines run hotter than NA gas engines so you’re gonna want to use full synthetic oil it’s gonna have more additives for the excess heat especially for the turbos themselves
Modern engines run hotter with variable valve timing , and turbo chargers . TDI, and GDI engines , I know newer cars require full synthetic . Maybe on a newer truck there is a break in period but best thing to do is look at your owners manual. Put it what the manual says it even has the intervals when it should be changed .
Owners manual on a new motorcycle I purchased said do not use synthetic for at least 3000 miles? The reason was that the engine would not break in properly?
I've used Amsoil (full synthetic) in two ecoboost engines and now my coyote engine, allF150s, from 500 miles on. Zero issues at all. First was a lease, 40,000 miles, second was a buy, 33,000 miles, new one is a buy, 13.700 so far. Not sure who you talked to at this dealer but I was a master Ford tech for 15+ years and I would NEVER tell any customer that kind of nonsense! I've run full synthetic oils in so many vehicles, high mileage or brand new, didn't matter. No issues ever. Don't listen to a service adviser. There's a reason that they're not wrenching. They know nothing when it comes to automotive.
I've always used Mobil 1 in all of my cars. '99 Cobra, '03 Cobra, '12 Mustang and my '02 Exploder. They all run like a top. No problems ever. Synthetic is the way to go.
Actually I took my F150 to the dealer and they gave me the option between full or blended synthetic Motorcraft oil.I chose the Full synthetic Motorcraft.
After the first 12000 miles Mobile one all the way. State trooper cars use and have used since the 1980s and hundreds of thousands of miles. Mercedes Benz even recommends Mobile one
Amsoil signature synthetic Talk to corporate. I have used it since 1979 and have never had to rebuild a motor . I had a 1977 ford Granada with a straight 6 cylinder engine with 300,000 miles on it I only had to rebuild the top end of the motor but I always end up selling the cars but they were always far from being worn out I had a 1988 ford mustang gt. With the Amsoil bypass filter on it every thing was converted over to Amsoil, engine, transmission, rear end and Amsoil air filter Sold it with 160,000 miles on it the car had nothing wrong with it far from being worn out. Ed green wood got me involved in Amsoil at the Oregon state fair he polluted the oil with graphite tried to filter it out with the top selling oil filter and it didn't work then he filters it through a Amsoil filters with a bypass filter and the oil cleaned it up like it was freshly poured from the bottle the filters first sold me and started using Amsoil since the late 1970s early 1980s and since Amsoil signature synthetic oil is the best oil on the market. I have run turbo cars and trucks and semi trucks and 2 years on an SCCA race team also I have worked 3 years for mountain oil company blending custom lubricants and have been exposed to oil and synthetics that the best has to offer Dyson Oil company out of Oklahoma makes a good product also.
I’m the old days, early 1980’s they told u to use Conventional oil until engine was fully broken in. Usually somewhere around 12,000 miles only because it would never break in correctly with full synthetic. Again just a myth
Just saw this. Full synthetic for all three of my fords. I have a 2019 f150 5.0 and immediately changed to full synthetic. Never had an issue with any of my vehicles engine wise. Like others have said the dealer shop is full of da’s and ignorant. You did the right thing.
Wow that’s crazy, I’m pretty sure that all these new engines that are forced induction and direct injection requires synthetic oil!! And I use synthetic in my Sierra and Subaru. Sounds like the dealer is trying to make you have issues with your engine so you gotta bring it in, and they should not be asking how you financed the vehicle!!
I got Motorcraft full synthetic 5w20 on my 06 F150.I how it compares to the other brands like Valvoline or Amsoil. I've seen some guys trying to compare the Motorcraft synthetic blend vs full synthetic Valvoline but that wasn't a fair test.Would like to see an even comparison.
I bought a tractor with a Kohler engine, they said to run conventional oil for the first 50 hours before changing over to synthetic. I believe their reasoning is that the rings and other various parts need to break in with conventional because it is not as slick as synthetic and you get a proper wear pattern. But I like you I break my engine in with factory oil and at 1st oil change go full synthetic. I run synthetic in my lawn mower, weedeater which is 4 cycle and in my Toyota tacoma 4.0. And transmissions are sealed now. Go synthetic and forget it.
As a retired mechanic I will give my opinion, they want the engine to seat in before owners use synthetic, but I feel 50 hrs is excessive. I believe you would want to use synthetic before you get a wear of 50 hrs.. 5 hr with standard oil and at least 5 cycles of bringing to engine up to normal operating temperature and complete cool is sufficient for break in. I personally changed mine to synthetic at 3hrs.. I run synthetic in everything I own with excellent results. I have used synthetic in a Harley engine which runs just as hot or hotter than the kohler with zero problems or LEAKS. But definitely do what your comfortable with.
Synthetic Oil Is NOT Slicker Than Conventional Oil ... Synthetic Maintains Viscosity And Film Strength Between Moving Metal Parts At Higher Than Normal Temperatures VS. Conventional Dino. Juice .... Any Oil WILL Break Down Under Extreme Heat Or Shear Pressure .... Synthetic Just Allows You To Really Push The Envelope Harder Before Metal On Metal Destructive Wear Occurs !! -Thanks 😎
@@Davido50 if they change their oil with synthetic blend every 5k or so anyways they would never get the full benefits of wasted money on a full synthetic which only real gain is its guna last more miles
beau smith I know more about engines than you probably ever will. Ford calls for a synthetic blend in their most sensitive 2.7 ecoboost motor for example I change it every 5k miles if my neighbor had the same car and used a full synthetic and changed it every 10k miles as most full synthetics call for these days I’m confident my motor would have less wear if I tore them apart and examined each the main benefit of a full synthetic is the oil lasts more miles before breaking down study oil harder pal
@@lolz616 ok keyboard mechanic use your shitty semi . im sure your a great forum mechanic. your probably the guy that uses bama tunes and think a cold air intake increases horsepower lmao
I use M1 full synthetic in all my vehicles, outboards, tractors, and even my coffee. Now, there are situations when full is not good. Most important is to change ahead of it breaking down and not relying on the BS 10k and 20k intervals they push.
DonnaSean Not if you buy the bug jugs of domestic synthetic when on sale....some auto parts stores even sell Motorcraft products but seriously research who makes Motorcraft. There is nothing magical about it. Its an oil. Mimic its tech standards for viscocity with a cheaper and better product.
At the end of the day who will ever know when you don’t do it yourself? Your not in the shop. After lengthy conversation they probably stuck the blend in and said “what he doesn’t know won’t hurt him. Do it yourself if you can at the end of the day. My opinion.
Back in the early 2000s when Volkswagen’s 1.8T engines were new, American dealers used conventional oil with longer synthetic intervals. Didn’t take long for these engines to develop sludge. After three or so years, they realized they screwed up and switched to synthetic (which stopped the sludge issue). Turbochargers get hot and break oil down quicker. The benefit of synthetic is that it doesn’t break down as easily with heat.
They asked because if it is leased the dealership is responsible for the overall maintenance done to the truck. If it’s leased and you’re putting the wrong kind of oil in it, it’s technically breaking terms of the lease.
@@Apothas541 you are 100% worng... If the dealer is responsible for the maintenance then they wouldn't even have to ask if the vehicle was leased... Why even ask... The maintenance of a leased vihicle is the responsibility of the individual who leased the vehicle.
@@Apothas541 Depends on who caused it..... if the leaser caused it by fault or if it was just a lemon engine.... if they mistreated the car or engine maintenance rules and put something stupid into the engine and caused it to go out its their fault obviously as the leases at least every one ive ever heard of say any damage cause by leaser they are responsible for.. if they didnt put anything into the tank or engine they werent suppose to and did their maintenance and its just a bad engine im sure dealer could warranty fix
You can use the best oil in the worst Chinese moped and it may even extended it's life but you stick in some cheap conventional oil in an Aston Martin Vulcan and send it out to the track it's going to fall apart. I'm going to try Liqui Moly because I think Germany requires it to be 100 percent synthetic for it to be classified as a full synthetic unlike the oils in the US. Things that future kids won't know about. Vhs tape, Walkman mp3 players, even the DVD player lived less than the vhs, and the transmission dipstick. Even some German cars don't even have Engine dipsticks.
haha a german car for germans is like a chevrolet for americans. It is a car just to use a couple years and then directly to the dumpster. they dont drive that much their cars. Also there are different kind of Synthetic oils, avoid the ones with Ester, that thing is not so compatible with rubbers like the gaskets in your engine. Dont believe that crap about Germans and Italians being the best. If you want a reliable synthetic oil that is not going to make you go broke then try Shell Helix Ultra otherwise known as Pennzoil Ultra, Shell owns Pennzoil and there are several videos on youtube that proves to be the best.
@@vaguincolombia I don't have confidence with British oil companies considering that Castrol won in court against Mobil and now any oil can loosely be labeled a full synthetic in the US. I now that some synthetics aren't compatible with seals but that would be more on the really old engines and Nissan actually started favoring Ester oil as they even sell it themselves. The purest oils are usually only made for aircraft. Pennzoil though is good but I still like German and French oils like Liqui Moly, Motul, Total, Pentosin, and a few others I may have forgotten. The Total oil I got for an Express is DexOS approved and the Liqui Moly Molygen is compatible with many US and Asian vehicles. I'm only running the normal stuff not the extreme sat 10w60 full ester made for racing.
Dealerships are stealerships.Just use what the owners manual says it's just that simple and if you're gonna do it yourself just keep all of your receipts in case you might need them in the future.
I run Mobil 1,I run it in all my vehicles.. I have an edge with a 3.5 (No turbo) with just over 200,000 miles and not even a leak on my garage floor.. I run in my '17 3.5 F150 ecoboost with no problems to date.
《My opinion》 5w-Anything these days is synthetic blend because it's cheaper to blend than to refine to the thin side. 2) one could make a case that synthetic is too slick for proper break in. I'm more inclined to favoring its high temperature strength in a turbocharged vehicle.
Full synthetic is the best by far. I like to use it simply because it last longer. It’s worth the extra cost. The most important guideline is to follow your owners manual for correct oil type, viscosity, and change interval.
A full synthetic oil will always be the best, if you had a question about the proper oil to use, look at the operator’s/owner’s manual or contact the manufacturer. They know best. However, you’re actually spending less on an expensive oil because you’re doing it less often, usually with today’s vehicles every 8-12k miles. A normal or blend would make you change your oil every 3-6k miles, which is a waste of money. Not to mention, engines run better off of synthetics, specifically with new engines like this. I know in Aviation, you have to use two different oils (breaking in the engine with a certain amount of hours), ashless dispersant vs a mineral oil, guess that’s what he was talking about but not all the way to 30,000 miles?! If they tell you otherwise, meaning conflicting with the manufacturer, they’re trying to get more money out of you, and are lying. Call them out on it.
You are correct sir . Ford just hasn't figured out how to use synthetic oil and keep the engine desighn fuel efficient at the same time. There new ring paks and piston desighn are known to use oil .
The reason a engine has sludge is because the oil hasn't been changed on a regular basis. As long u keep the oil changes regular you have have sludge Send Conventional or synthetic.
Of course. Don’t put something into your vehicle that may prolong it’s life and keep it out of the repair shop. 😂 Remember, the manufacturer recommendations, are the “bare minimum requirement”.
They may have jugs of it cuz that’s usually the manufacturer recommendation. I’ve never used full synthetic but it just may be a personal preference or an individuals problem with their vehicles. Just a thought
Hey I am a mechanic and all engines NEED to wear in when new, BUT only for 5 to 7,ooo miles. After that, full synthetic oil is perfectly fine, so at 30,000 miles your service writer has no clue what he's talking about.
first off they could be talking from experience. If its leased let them knock themselves out. synthetic is known for issues. 2nd the motorcraft oil is made for that engine. third if they put mobil the profit margin drops. Asking if its leased is valid. why spend more then the minimum. illogical. I would not listen to anyone but the owners manual regarding type of oil. Synthetic is also not recommended during break-in. They claim the engine does not need breakin but why risk it. Also if you do the minimum as u say and follow the computer you will shorten the life of that engine. the sooner the engine wears out the sooner it can be sent to the dealer for repairs. Then is the extended drain for synthetic which causes sludge. using conventional oil if listed in owners manual as acceptable would be better because you change it more often with a new filter. Synthetic is only recommended by Ford in extreme climate, mexico , northern canada, ect. Personally what i do is put 5 litres of conventional and 0.5 litre of synthetic. and no matter what the miles i change it every 6 months but i dont drive it much. the oil life is usually 30 -40 % left when i change once in spring summer and right before it gets too cold. Or you could use the synthetic right before the winter. conventional does not flow well when its sub zero temperatures.
It's 30K cuz of warranty trains now it's like 30K 60K etc..then on your own. It's just policy. But dealership are aholes..period..Jerks..my take.but..they are right on that 30K oil interval. And yes they don't wanna lose business but it is what it is.. Anyways I have 2017 36K mustang GT v8 and I'm changing over to 5w20 valvoline advanced full synthetic. And yes with the Motorcraft oil filter. I don't want to run smaller VO-88 oil filter from valvoline. And I work there. 4-5K intervals are great 👍
I added an oil catch can on my 2013 F-150 w/ 3.5 Ecoboost as a long term investment. I can't believe the shit that comes out of it that would normally be sent back to the intake to be reburned. I'm very happy I bought it.
Semi-synthetic is a huge profit making scam. Take regular oil, add in a few drops of synthetic oil, call it Semi-Synthetic and double the price. The markup on semi-synthetic is much higher than both regular or 100% synthetic oil, and that’s the ONLY reason the dealer is pushing it.
The dealer just wants you to come there for service, I bought a used 16 explorer and was told it was fully serviced air filter and cabin filter was filthy and the plugs was oem and needed changed, DO NOT EVER TRUST THE DEALER!
i would say full synthetic and change it every 7500 miles max. i changed mine the 1st time at 1500 2nd at 2500 and 3rd at 5000 and at 5000 w full synthetic it was pretty bad
I have used Motorcraft synthetic blend 5w30 on My2012 Lincoln MKS Ecoboost tuned 450 Hp. and my 2015 Roush 670 HP Mustang since new and never a problem and no engine tick. I change the oil every 3K.
