Ford Engine Rebuild: 8N, 9N, 2N: Valves and Guides: Part 3 of 4 

Your videos are a very big help thanks for your time making them. There's so many people that don't explain the steps and just talk about unrelated things. When all I want is to know what to do. I'm rebuilding my 8n and some of the stuff like valves I have never done before but with your videos I'm able to do it with minimal guesses as to if it is done correctly. Thanks for the helping videos.

I cant tell you how much I appreciate yall for making the videos you do. Its such a help. Rachel does such a great job explaining things. I know Dan has got to be the proudest dad out there.

Your Daddy has got to be the proudest father in the country. I've been turning wrenches for 45 years, and I am expressed with your knowledge. My girls work in my shop with me anytime I service their vehicles, but not to your level. Great job on video. it's outstanding. Wish you lived closer, I have a single son your age. Lol.

Rachel is such a good teacher! I can do my job well. BUT, I can't teach it to nobody!!! Just have to watch me. Teaching is a skill in itself 👍

This is an excellent tutorial, but I would like to suggest a couple things . First cleanliness is super important when rebuilding an engine , so try to do all block work like honing the bores and seating the valves first then throughly cleaning the block again before assembly to get rid any contamination like metal shavings and grit . Second oil is fine for coating the bearings and other surfaces, but I prefer to use a quality assembly lube as its thicker and sticks to the surfaces better than oil . I also clean up all the engine bolts on a wire wheel to remove any dirt or carbon build up and chase all the bolt holes with the correct sized bottoming tap to remove any dirt or carbon from those areas as well because dirt and carbon build up can negatively effect your torque readings . I realize that these things may not make much difference when building a small industrial engine like this , but it is just a good habit to get into when working on any engine .

Great content. I'll only add a couple of points. All honing and cutting (valve seats) work should be done prior to assemble so that you can properly wash any grit or shavings out of the block before putting it together. In a prior video you used a digital caliper to measure crank journals. The better tool for this would be a micrometer. It's also a good idea to measure each journal after the crank returns from the machine shop, then install (and torque) all main and rod caps with the bearings installed and measure the inside diameters. Comparing the ID and OD at each location will give the final clearance. This is important because sometimes you have the wrong sized bearings, and sometimes the machine shop messes up the job.

My Dads old 8n is sitting rusting at my brothers house. These videos make me wanna make it new again.

Dan and Rachel, this is great work. Thank you for the time you put into this effort to spread knowledge needed to keep these machines working. I've shown my 10 year old daughter how Rachel is skilled at doing mechanical work and I am sure she is an inspiration to her and other little girls that may want to venture out into things that are not traditionally "girl-oriented".

This channel is a godsend to me as I am looking to resurrect the old family farm with vintage equipment. Thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos!

Thank you, Rachel, for this clarification on the cylinders, the bistem and the shackles. Cleaning the ballof ... continues to you

Excellent video! I enjoy watching anything about the Ford 9N tractors. I recently purchased a 1941 9N. Thanks for posting these videos!

That's when I asked you about non adjustable lifters. So they where ground and fit from the factory. My friend put an adjustable lifter in his brothers tractor. Thank you again for the info. Take care!

Great video. But you really need to clean, cut and lap the valve and clean all the mess up before you do any assembly of the engine. Get all the old stuff and dirt out of it before you do any assembly. Then to a final cleaning. You can actually use dish soap and water to rinse all the ports of the block out and let dry before you assembly. That a old engine rebuild trick. Dirt and metal are the worst things you can have in a engine.

Awesome video, and she is the best looking tractor technician I've ever seen 😍

Always i learning something new! Thanks dad and daughter!!!

Some of the valve springs are misplaced. They must necessarily go with the part where the wires are closer together towards the side of the support, that is to say upwards.

Great video! As long as your valve guides are not worn out. Resurfacing the seats also ensures that your valve to seat contact is concentric. The seats can become egg shaped over time. Also another pro versus con with the rotating valve.

How lucky are you that you have a daughter that takes interest in this stuff and works on tractors with you.

Excellent video! This is the best I've seen on this topic!

I failed to mention that the pistons, rings, and sleeves appear to be in excellent shape. The only carbon there was on the piston crown. Thanks again for your wonderful videos!!

I am doing a complete engine rebuild on my 1949 8N because the oil pressure drops from 25 psi when it is first started to around 5 psi after about 30 minutes of operation and also when I did a compression test on the cylinders, my indications were all over the place, from 0 to 115 psi. Every time I would check a cylinder, it would indicate differently. Anyway, I was commenting because ya'll answered my question as to why the exhaust valve guides had no seals on them due to the high heat, Thanks so much for that information!! PS: I checked all the journals on the crankshaft with my digital caliper and my clearances were anywhere from .010 - .022 inch. I certainly hope that is the cause for the low oil pressure?? The crankshaft and connecting rods were previously installed using .010 inch bearings. The valves had excessive carbon buildup and were extremely sticky! Must be the ethanol gas. Thanks for the very informative videos, we really enjoy them in SE Alabama!!

Great video thank you for all your hard work

Another enjoyable video full of information.

A very interesting video, thank you for sharing 🤠

VERY IMPORTANT: Also make sure you clean the lapping compound off very good from not only the valve seat but also the valve itself. If not you lap the crap out of your valve when you fire up your engine. I have valve bodies almost destroyed from not doing so.

Love the videos. Helps when trying to rebuild. What size hone are you using for the valve cylinders. If anybody knows please let me know. Thanks in advance.

Great job. Thanks 😊!!

Thanks! You mention that you adjust the valves after the tractor has been running for a while. 1) What do you look/listen for to know when they need to be re adjusted? 2) Do you adjust them without removing the head? If so, how do you find TDC for each cylinder?

I know you guys are showing practical but drilling the lifter holes and using a ball hone on a partially assembled engine... oof. Been building engines 30 years and my last one was an 8BA so a lot of similarities. Would never generate abrasive or metal particles on a fresh build if I can't clean it after.

Rotating valve assy is the way to go. Especially for the parade infrequent use machine where carbon buildup is more common.

The flat head ford v8 car engine you had grind valve stem to adjust your valve clearance they installed johnson adjustable similar what you installed installed in your ford n9 engine.

Is there a video on how to set the valves with the head on? Thanks! Great videos.

Very good job

I am seeking information on the valve seat grinding tool. What is the angel of the cutting surface?

Very useful!

Great work Rachel! What are the specs on the manual carbide seat cutter? Exact Part # is ideal. Is it just 45 degree? and what is the intake and exhaust diameter that it must fit. Also what is the pilot shaft diameter. Also what is the hone size you are using to clean out the valve guides?

Thanks very helpful.God bless

Something I've been wondering about. I've had to rebuild a few 60's and 70's small block Chevys. These engines were designed to run on leaded gasoline. The lead helps to cool the valves. In converting the engine to run on unleaded, the valves are replaced with sodium valves and the valve seats are cut out and replaced with hardened valve seats. This is in an automotive application where temperatures and RPMs may be higher. I'm wondering if this is worth doing to an old tractor like this or if it's even an option.

Can you make ah video of the tools you definitely need when you want to work on tractors

Hi have a massey Ferguson 35 and the 3 point linkage arms go up very slowly without any weight on them but any implements it doesn't go up at any speed and only sometimes any ideas would be very helpful the pump is pumping oil out the tub in the pump if you take the cover off also out the remote hose if hit the lever thank you for the videos

So nice

Do you guys have any videos of bigger tractors? Repairs or rebuilds in like a 930 case or Farmall 806?

i like watching your channel ,now I want to buy a small tractor.

8:04 Drilling holes in that block while most of it is assembled seems like you might leave yourself susceptible to metal fragments on the side of the valve lifter bore. Not sure if you'd had issues with that on cast blocks, but it's been my experience that metal typically blows out on the other side and leaves shrapnel. Also you're probably covering your camshaft lobes in metal dust.

Good to know. Thanks.

Someone on the forums was mentioning the rotating kit takes special tools to install but I am not seeing anything over complicated. The I&T manual does show there has to be a gap between the cap and valve stem of .0002-.004". I would guess this gap is fine with the new parts?

When you 'check & re-adjust the valves at a later time...after the tractor has been run for a while' do you have to disassemble the entire engine again? I unfortunately adjusted them backward - 0.012" for exhaust and 0.014" for intake.

Where's number 4 video of this series? Thanks

Forgot rotater cap on demo did not clean valve guide hole after honking and comeing up both valves closed it is the compression stroke then power stroke after tdc

I am rebuilding my ‘49( the engine was last rebuilt in late 66 /early 67) and the valve train in it has a washer between the guide and the spring and also had seals on every guide, it was upgraded to rotating exhaust valves and adjustable lifters at that time too. The modern valve train does not include the washer between the guide and spring and did not include the seals. Four seals are included in the overhaul gasket kit. Seals are said not to be necessary on exhaust guides. All the manuals I have looked at do not show the washer between the spring and guide. If using solid lifters, you must remove material from the valve stem end, not the lifter when adjusting clearance.

hi do u sell brush and seat cutter and price

What did you spray on your lifters?

What are the Neway Part Numbers for Your Neway Pilot Tool and Your Neway Valve Seat Cutter? I'm assuming that Your Neway Cutter a is a 1/2" Drive on the Top to turn with the T-Handle? I Would like to add these tools to My Tool Collection for building 8N Engines. Thank You.

We have a 8 N 52 the valves have both retainer in them is that normal

Where these motors the idea behind the Ford flathead V8?

Are the lifters so post to move up n down, As the engine runs?

Dan, And Rachel...I just had a machine shop master rebuilt my 9n. But oil is getting on spark plugs. Is that faulty valve seals?

Do you guy sell Minneapolis Moline parts

Do you do engine rebuild? If you do can I ship a Ford 3000 engine for you to rebuild?

I got a question. My 1950 ford 9N is getting oil in the radiator. How can you fix this problem??

Very interesting. But, on comment, the valve guides should not be knocked in. It should be pressed in. It’s extremely important to fit those guides in. - in a very accurate manner otherwise, I would go to a machine shop to undertake the valve and piston Job.

I've got a block in the machine shop now. Dipped, cleaned and magnafluxed. They're boring the cylinders to accept .90 sleeves and are going to put a cut on the valve seats. They're telling me after they cut the seats, there is no need to lap the valves. So I'm getting conflicting information on whether lapping is necessary.

Utopia would be building tractors with the Gingell clan

VERY IMPORTANT: Never, never ever drill or gring on a engine that you the bottom end assembled on. Yes it is a old tractor engine and hard to kill. With that said you really don't want metal sludge and or shavings in a fresh rebuilt engine. Do this before assembly if you have the engine torn completely apart to begin with.

Massey TAFE 5900 hyd

i want work with u

Rachel your going have to stop showing your dad the tricks to the trade he will want to start his own RU-vid channal lol Just kidding

!;-)

👊👊👊☝👋👋👏👏🌷🌸🌹

Can't see anything you're doing because the camera is showing the people instead of the parts up close

Oh my... That newly rebuilt motor will probably not last even half as long as it should. You should not hone and drill during assembly. Abrasives will be everywhere. Those super hard little particles from the hone plus the metal swarf, and then the dirt particles, are all going to get into the bearings, the guides, the oil pump, the gear teeth and simply eat them up. Why go to all of the trouble and expense of rebuilding a motor just to have it wear out prematurely? ALWAYS do the machining, drilling, honing, wire brushing FIRST, then CLEAN the block, CLEAN the parts, and then when its CLEAN, you assemble. Sorry to sound so harsh on an otherwise very good video, but seriously, this is a big deal. Do you want your rebuilt motor to last 500 hours, or 5,000 ?