Ford Escort MK1 MK2 Classic Ford DIY RWD Zetec Sump inc Plans 

I didn't realize so many people were converting the 2.0 zetec to rear wheel drive. When I went online to maybe get an idea, I was slammed with videos. I really appreciate these kind of videos. Actual how to instructions. Thanks for this.

So finally here is something, I’m a truly expert on. First, I would say that you did an excellent job of planning out both the shape, and the sequence along with the appropriate features. Here are some things to know when building liquid tight sheet metal weldments. The welds should be bubbling through on the backside in a continuous blue streak. This takes practice but it is an indication of good penetration. If you can achieve this, then it will be OK to carefully buff the welds smooth, being careful not to get into the parent metal as this will weaken the joint. Fine grits are the order of the day. The welded corners don’t have to be square. Make a simple welded dolly with a half inch diameter bar as the mandrel portion. First, take a cut-off wheel and slit a single pass through the tacked joint to be welded. Place your homemade dolly tightly against the inside of the joint and hammer the edges over. This will create a quarter inch radius on the corner. Re-tack the corners. The best joints have a definite gap but no wider than the metal thickness. This makes for good penetration. The joint should be backed-up with a close-fitting aluminum rod. Warming the piece before welding will tend to minimize warpage. 200°F is about right. I use a digital thermometer but a 203°F Tempilstik (a.co/d/gld7biN) is probably a better choice. The Tempilstiks are consumable so I prefer the digital thermometer. The heating process should be done uniformly. Otherwise it’s possible to warp the piece with the preheating, itself. The process of making cold rolled steel crushes trash into the surface. This trash will compromise the quality of the weld. To remove this, buff lightly with a fine grit disc. This is almost impossible with the 20 gauge steel used in this oil pan. It’s so thin as to make it very possible to grind the edge to nothing. So here’s the coup de grace on leak proofing welded steel containers. Loctite 290 is not only a thread sealer but it also seals weld porosity when applied correctly. The proper temperature is 180°F. I monitor the temperature with the digital thermometer until it gets below 200°F and then take an acid brush and paint all the welds. Painting one side is adequate. I’d prefer to do this after all the welds are polished which requires reheating the piece to 180°F. I do all my preheating with a propane weed-burner (www.harborfreight.com/propane-torch-with-push-button-igniter-91037.html). The Loctite 290 is good to about 500°F. So if your pan leaks, you’ve got bigger problems than the leak itself. I have used the Loctite 290 with 100% success both at work and at home. A pressure test is still a good idea though. For an oil pan I would use 3-5psi. Much more than that, you’ll permanently deform the oil pan. One final note, modifying the factory oil pan will not likely work out as the stress induced in deep-drawing the part to shape is so great that cracking of the parent metal is almost a done deal if you mess with it. The only way to get around this would be to heat the oil pan to about 1100°F to stress relieve the piece. Pretty much a nonstarter.

Another "thinking out of the box" idea Dave, inspiring. Amazing how you formed the recesses to avoid big end caps collision, that part looks machine made. Well done mate

Fantastic work very clever

Your a mate for sharing the dimensions! Thanks!

Your a clever lad. I have finally solved the Halfords weld through primer spray cap blocking up issue...simply use a Hammerite one.

Top job dave

Nice one Dave 👍

Dave that was incredible.

Well, Dave. I take my hat off to you. Fantastic work 👏 👍

Thanks for taking the time out to so us all how it can be done many thanks for sharing and good luck with the rest of the build.

Absolute quality craftman ship inspiring me to do a st170 conversion

Lovely job, Dave, You're a brave man, Dave. I walked into my garage last week, turned around, and walked out. It was freezing lol

Nice job👍

Fantastic 👍

It would be nice to weld a nice upturn on the ends to match the sides. looks great you made a nice job of that looks factory as Tony would say!

Lovely job Dave saved some pounds 👏👏 put some red diesel in the sump just to check for leaks. done it in past when repaired sumps you can see it weep out pin hole's 👍

Great work Dave!

great work dave

Love watching your craftsmanship mate. Even your square is custom made!

Once again fantastic work ...have you everthought of using a oil temperature mockup in the sump...

Well done Dave it’s nice to see parts being made from scratch I cannot weld myself but find it interesting watching a finished product

I your version of !CAD is using Stella as the packing case of choice again

Brilliant work. Just goes to show what can be done with basic tools and ingenuity.

Another brilliant example of your home garage engineering dave loved the talking explanation and tuition thankyou, your channel is entertaining as well as teaching..every episode I'm learning and being inspired more and more with my own projects..cant wait to see finished product escort..❤

Top job Dave 👍👍👍

awesome work dave i can not believe it looks so good by using basic tools can not wait to see the rest the sump coming togeter

This is just great!

saved yourself a few hundred there dave! I always jigsaw on a thick piece of polystyrene, its keeps the noise down & can cut some really accurate shapes, I notice you have the pendulum on high, you don't need it at all on metal, also you can get some very tight curves if you grind a few mil off the back of the blade.

Incredible skills Dave it’s nice to see some proper fabrication going on I really enjoy these sort of vids nice work my good man 👌👍

The wobbly end on a steel tape measure is there on purpose. It compensates for internal and external measurements. That’s a lesson I used to teach my apprentices on their first day on site. 45 years ago every new school leaver could use a tape and do simple maths in their head. From around 15 years ago we had to start from scratch and teach measuring and simple maths to prevent excessive wastage of materials. BTW I could still kneel down like that but I do t think I could stand up again on my own!!!

Thanks Dave, another really enjoyable episode.

Absolutely Amazing, so pleased you are kneeling on something, please keep warm whilst in there, maybe wear a hat more often to keep away any chill..

Well done Dave brilliant work as always. Thanks for doing these videos 👍

Morning Dave. You ok 👍🏻 That was absolutely amazing 🤩 I loved every minute and sad when it finished lol 😆

Amazing skills Dave, you are a legend!!!!!!

Lovely job Dave. Those big end reliefs are mint.

Really nice job there Dave, may be worth keeping the formers for the strengthening lip at the end of vid and using them when installing sump, will spread the load on the gasket more evenly and stop any possible distortion and guarantee an oil tight joint??

That looks like a lot of work but what a great finish you have have just as good if not better than a retro Ford item in my opinion

Great work as always Dave. I'm always amazed by the different techniques you come up with for shaping

Great video Dave , l would say one of the best on you tube .

Hi Dave, I'm still watching your sump fabrication, very nice job 👍. I did a hybrid sump using a 1600 Kent sump and some inch wide strap for the mountings, it was quite a easy mod until I decided to make a windage tray and baffles !

Amazing work Dave it’s like going back to college listening to your advice and seeing your skills mate Can’t wait for the next part. Are you going to use a 1.8 flywheel, there lighter than a 2L’s

I must admit I was thinking about the swarf.....

Loved that video Dave,looks just like the real thing.

Nice work but not to throw stones in your gears you’ll going to hate the sheet metal pan. They all leak on the zetec, every one sooner or later.

great stuff dave,i have a pinto 2.0l to fit into a mk1,i've never made a sump and now i've seen you do it im gonna wave paying 600+ for an rs2000 sump and have a bash at it,so is this pretty much the same as it would be for the pinto,some just bash the hell out of the sump till it clears the crossmember and steering rack.

Bloody awesome series you're doing. Any chance of doing a similar video on engine mounts (all the key angles and what not) if you haven't already? I'm doing the same as you but can't put a motor in the car yet.

I have no idea how the curved bit each end will be oil tight once fitted? I can see that the bolted sides will have a gasket between the two surfaces but the unbolted curved ends? (Excuse my ignorance, I’m electrical not mechanical!!)

awesome job dave! greetings from finland with a question! do you or anyone in the comments know if this design fits the mk2 sierra?

Could u make me one for a cvh I hate the sump gaskets on them an would seal it instead

Hie whats the thickness of the metal sheet you used

Why don't u fill it with white shirts to test it if its gonna leak that will Show u without doing a rig

Bit of a long slog videos over 20 minutes, the perfect length recommend by RU-vid.

Dave ,a bit of advice,You need to have more content for your-videos more often than you do as you have the chance of making it really big ,invest more time to do it as I wish I had your chance