Ford tech here. This is straight from the FMC website. ISM I2111003 - Explorer, Crown Victoria, Mustang, and F-Series - Repeat PCM replacement for various DTCs Some Explorer, Crown Victoria, Mustang, and F-Series vehicles in the 2004-2010 MY range may have P0135, P0141, P0155, P0161, P0645, P0403, P0443 setting in thePCM. Typically, all of these codes will be present, but sometimes only the P0403 and P0443 are setting. If circuit testing per normal WSM and PC/ED diagnosisdoes not reveal a concern, then the fault is internal to the PCM. Replace the PCM and reevaluate. If the replacement PCM sets the same DTCs, direct the dealership to submit a Parts Quality Inquiry to COPIS, and continue replacing the PCM until the vehicle is repaired. It may take several PCM replacements to resolve the concern
So why is it the ecm has to be changed out as many as 6 times . Is it a matter of clearing the memory or replacing a chip board. Do they test the ecm before sending it back?
Saw this exact problem a few months ago in an Exploder. Tested the ground side circuit of the evap solenoid with a light, and hooked the vantage up to MAP. Every time I checked for DTCs the circuit would drop for a split second and come back on. All PCM's powers and ground tested good under load. The exact same codes you have in this case would come on. Customer replaced all O2 sensors, the EGR valve and several other parts. NEW PCM fixed it. If I was just using a test light in the case and not a scope I may not have seen how fast those circuits opened and closed. Paul, I really want to thank you because you're work has helped me so much to understand the theory behind how these systems work in a way that I actively apply in my field every day.
As a ford tech I have worked on about 15-20 explorers with the same issue, usually DTCs for O2 heater circuit, purge valve, EGR valve and compressor clutch circuit faults. On all of them the PCM failed. On the first one I had the customer was complaining that the AC would blow hot, check engine light on and vehicle stalls at times. What I ended up finding was that the control circuits (grounds) for the EGR valve was controlling the AC clutch and when the AC was turned on the EGR valve would open and cause the engine to stall when coming to a stop. Replaced the PCM and the faults were corrected. On others I would replace the PCM and with a reman PCM from Ford the fault you’d go away but other faults would appear. On one vehicle I installed 4 PCMs till the last one was good. All the PCMs for these explorers are now remans and if the original fault was not repaired then they will have a fault.
I have had the same exact problem on a explorer same codes, after replacing the PCM with a reman ford part it started getting other problems. Cycling the a/c compressor when it’s off and opening the EGR at idle and what I found was once the PCM reached a certain temperature say around 160 degrees that’s when the EGR would start opening and cycle the compressor with codes. Pour some water on the PCM and it would straighten right out! After jumping through hoops with my local ford dealer I came to find out that ford sold the reman rights for those Particular fords to Cardone! Yes Cardone parts, so basically the reman PCM’s are coming from Napa! That’s why we’re getting several PCM’s in a row that are defective. Good luck Scanner!
@@arnie1928 the second PCM I received from Ford that was acting up once it reached about 165 degrees was sent back and checked, they said nothing was wrong with it. So yeah I agree with u 100%
@@mikeo610 at the dealership I worked at when a PCM was obsolete we would send out the original PCM to be fixed. I forget the company we used but they would ask what codes were present and what circuits had a issue. If there were other issues with the PCM and we didn’t tell them about it then they would not be fixed.
I had same problem on a mustank and a exploder. I was able to shock the pcm on the mustang and see the grounds open up. Gotta love the scope so your not a parts changer. Im going to say faulty pcm before i watch the next video 👍. Great work and videos im sure i can speak for everyone its very much appreciated
DAMN! Danner's been giving you some real PITA's lately. LOL! I followed you all the way through that and was like you suspecting a bad power feed. I was thinking possible corrosion under the fuse block maybe, guess not. Can't wait for part 2! Oh, and tell Caleb he's doing a great job on the editing!
Interested to see what is found on this vehicle, everyone wants to be a diagnostic tech in the shop till it comes time to do diagnostic stuff like this 🤣
Hey Danner, i know you dont remember me, but i had a cranks wont start issue with a 1996 chevy k1500. First of all you offered to help me for free, and that is awesome, second your videos are very informational. You helped me without even going one on one. You helped me eliminate all electrical components from the cause. Eventually it was discovered the guy i paid to do my engine swap failed to transfer the reluctor ring to the new engine. I am no great mechanic, but i could have easily done the swap and forgotten the the ring myself, then again, with my attention to detail, i probably would have noticed something lacking on the new motor, as i was transferring parts. Anyway, just wanted to say thank you for offering your experience for free, and also wanted to let you know the problem has been resolved. Also for anyone out there having the same issue i had, maybe make a video showing the complete breakdown of the ignition system components, all the way to the top of the food chain, the reluctor ring. There are absolutely NO videos showing this, out there. And nobody, could figure it out, even when i posted "recent engine swap". It took myself and 4 shop mechanic/owners standing around scratching our heads as we all went thru the diagnostic process about 100 times. Until one of them said, pull the crank sensor and give me a flashlight,....and he discovered the ring was missing. My truck was down for literally 11 months after the engine swap. The guy hasnt even apologized for his mistake. Have a great day, and thank you again.
Been there also..chasing this ghost. Substituted power exactly how you were. The only conclusion i could make was the problem is internal to the board. Replaced the computer and the problem was resolved. I used the methods taught in your book, looking at the control side of all of the circuits showed 12v to the pcm connectors verifing the components and wiring. By looking for the 12v at the pcm on the control wires. These hard cases can make us second guess ourselves. But your testing doesnt lie!
Another great video. Although sometimes it doesn’t feel it when you’re at a vehicle with a problem, your diagnostic path is text book. A big fan and a Premium member with the book!
i am so happy to realise that you don1t cheat on your videos, if something gave you hard time you just show it as it is. i know you gonna fix it moshitoa south africa
Gotta get ya some jarhead diagnostic load testers Paul :) already have banana jacks hooked to them and a bulb with a protective cover. Perfect for laid testing! Love the videos I appreciate the knowledge and walk through a laid out
I would be curious to place a fuse loop in fuse 42 and monitor the amperage during the self test. Maybe see an amperage measurement that looks inconsistent and then possibly pursue a path that way. Either way, super interesting issue looking forward to Part 2.
WoW Amazing😍 This one reminds me of the 2002 Camry I had year's ago, at the time I did not know much about scope's & didn't have one, but that car had some serious issues with similar code's & in the end we replaced the ECM & got rid of all the issue's😉 But waiting eagerly to see how you fix this one😍 Special Thanks to James & Caleb Danner😍 Stay Blessed Guy's❤
I cant wait for part 2, i have this exact same issue with my 06 mountaineer, all the same codes, started right after the ac line goin across the back of the engine blew and started leaking all over the back of the engine and bellhousing. Replaced the line, cleaned up everything, but found all 4 o2 sensor wiring had expose wires near the connectors, cleaned all those up, re covered them in heat shrink, and looked for anymore obvious wiring issues, this wasnt the first wiring issues i had found in this truck either, i had earlier replaced alternator, throttle body control and coil pack pigtails due to the same issue, dry rotted wiring losing its covering. I still have the issue, all the o2s show theyre working just like in your video, i believe i still need to get into the harness further to find more bad wiring, but im hoping its something more simple. Great video as always, cant wait for the conculsion!
@@ScannerDanner i checked the fuse, not blown, but i didnt check for power. If i clear the codes, it takes about 3 key cycles before they all come back.
Interesting, I thought maybe the spikes could be from the magnetic field of the relay you mentioned earlier but very curious on this one Paul. Good work I really enjoyed the journey
Seems like another case with an wiring harness related replacement. Btw, few weeks ago Ivan Form Pine Hollow Auto diagnostics worked on Hyundai Elanta, No Start After Engine Swap, having similar not explainable set of codes. Ok, waiting for the next part. Thanks guys!
his is going on with my sons 08 explorer. Started running rough just a bit intermittently got worse fast. Looking at the wiring harness found that deterioration is right behind the wiring like 3 inches into the insulation behind the connector, you could not see it until I peeled the conduit back. Was exactly like that for The egr, maf, purge, but the 02 wiring looked great. When I peeled the conduit and insulation back about a foot or so just past the deterioration the wire looked great fresh and, very pliable. I de-pinned every one and slid almost exact sized shrink tubing down each bad wire checked pin fitment, re tapped new conduit, very clean job. The sensors associated with the codes are the only ones I could find with deteriorated wires except the 02s. It seems to also have the EGR issue where the EGR valve is controlling the AC clutch and when the AC is turned on the EGR valve would open and cause the engine to stall when coming to a stop. I hope the EBAY PCM fixes this, fingers crossed my son goes back to college in 2 days.. The repairs to the harness and eBay pcm seems to have fixed this explorer. He drove back to college with zero issues no check engine light. The deterioration seems to be just behind the connectors, inspect and repair takes time but in my case no harness available had to de-pin shrink wrap with pin fitment and got a pcm 3 days before he headed out. Thankful he's safe ScannerDanner Reply
Paul you need to review your release times for us Aussies if you're going to throw in drinking games, Its 6.30am and smashed already "ya know what I mean" 🤣🤣
My theory for the record before the next vid: I would have unplugged or depinned everything connected to the PCM that was throwing a code. Since you're getting so many codes at once, and a high voltage spike, seems like things that share circuitry in the PCM are out of whack. Could be something damaged in the PCM, but since he changed the PCM and it does the same thing, it's more likely something on a circuit is interfering with the PCMs operation. You have a high voltage spike, and I don't think anything should send back voltage to the PCM on that circuit. The voltage drops could also be something pulling way too much current and then the voltage spike is it just acting funny in response. When there's more than one thing wrong the best bet is isolation testing. Not always the fastest but it's the best. I really like making custom wires that go from PCM pin to alligator clip so I can pull out PCMs and test them completely isolated, then plug in one component using those same wires, in this case say the EGR or EVAP, and see if that causes a fault. It's either the PCM or a component messing up the PCM. Probably the latter. Maybe something melted and drawing way too much current. When microprocessors have too much current pulled causing too little voltage, or too much voltage from back feed, they act weird and unclear.
This is going on with my sons 08 explorer. Started running rough just a bit intermittently got worse fast. Looking at the wiring harness found that deterioration is right behind the wiring like 3 inches into the insulation behind the connector, you could not see it until I peeled the conduit back. Was exactly like that for The egr, maf, purge, but the 02 wiring looked great. When I peeled the conduit and insulation back about a foot or so just past the deterioration the wire looked great fresh and, very pliable. I de-pinned every one and slid almost exact sized shrink tubing down each bad wire checked pin fitment, re tapped new conduit, very clean job. The sensors associated with the codes are the only ones I could find with deteriorated wires except the 02s. It seems to also have the EGR issue where the EGR valve is controlling the AC clutch and when the AC is turned on the EGR valve would open and cause the engine to stall when coming to a stop. I hope the EBAY PCM fixes this, fingers crossed my son goes back to college in 2 days..
The EBAY pcm was programed, took it on a good 30/40 min road test ran smooth with zero issues. Repairing the wiring just past the connector ends and another PCM thankfully did the trick first try :) My son just drove off heading back to college, praying he stays safe. This case study and all the comments from the community really helped me. Thank you Paul and every ones input.@@ScannerDanner
My 06 explorer had same codes EGR, purge, and all O2s, was stalling at idle. Finally I noticed that the purge valve was energized all of the time, it was hot to the touch. Wires all good. I condemned the ECM. Reman ECM fixed it
I just did a 2006 Explorer 4.0 all those codes replaced ECM fixed 90% did a smoke text crack in intake fixed 5% more replaced gas cap fixed evap code then wires to TPS were bare wire and fixed that now I’m running great
Wow. I follow you and then your wheels start turning way faster. Love trying to keep up with you and your thought process. Challenging for sure. Great lesson, can't wait to learn more. Ford, first on race day or found on road daily?????
Sorry about that. With this thing on it's 3rd engine computer, I'm making sure I'm not missing anything. Part 2 we'll clarify some of the tests I did and why. Thank you!
What an interesting problem set. You see spikes like that when voltage to an inductor is interrupted. You have lots of little inductors in that circuit. When power is interrupted, the inductor becomes a transient voltage source, so on the input side you get a negative spike, you get a positive spike on the other side. I wonder what the current draw of the circuit is, perhaps you've got a coil that is drawing too much current and reacting to noise in the circuit. Inside any PCM there are a whole series of capacitors designed to smooth power output. Perhaps inside the pcm the capacitors are fried, resulting in a power output that has big spikes the PCM doesn't like and can't suppress. I wonder what would happen if you were to put a capacitor in parallel, tied to ground on the other side of the cap. Those spikes would flatten out, maybe even disappear. It might even be enough to avoid replacing another pcm, ha ha.
Those voltage spikes were identical and repeatable. A component in there is causing them and I suspect it might even be normal. The purge valve only pulling down to 2 volts is the smoking gun here....That's where I'd go next. I had a no crank-no start Silverado that had an engine swap done a couple months prior do something similar to me on a power feed to one of the relays. It was setting a circuit code for a relay and I found the slightly elevated ground. It took me a bit of time but I tracked it down to a loose ground on the block.
typical pcm problem, I used to work for LAPD here in L.A.. Perform KOEO test , clear the codes and check the codes again. If the codes come back then the ECM is bad assuming the circuit is fine. I had it on Crown Victorias and Mustangs.
Along with some other comments. Your process of elimination is crucial before fitting a new PCM. If the fault is before the PCM connectors, then you are likely to fry another ecu. Then chase your tail again blaming a faulty PCM. I was always taught, check your powers and grounds first before chasing a fault like this, grounds even more so if they all share a common ground on the output side. Ford Australia have had a bad habit of putting multiple earth points around the vehicle in very obscure places. They get weather exposed and corrode. I tend to clean them and then spray them with battery terminal protector to help slow the corrosion issue. In saying all that, it does sound like a PCM, as when you do the self test the codes log. I would take a punt and say that a transistor has short circuited internally. Ford ECU's from the 90's - 2000's seem to have some weird gremlins. Putting the ECU's in the engine bay for me personally is a no no due to the extreme weather and heat they endure. Looking forward to Pt 2 Danner 👌 Love your method of talking through the problem.
I really surprised that Snap On Tools has not invited you to meet with their Scanner IT/Programming Department and let you either help them on ideas or have them show you why you can’t have that in test model of a new scanner
You've eliminated the first common denominator (12 volt supply). The next common denominator is the computer. Specifically, the sense circuitry inside which likely shares the same components for all of those circuits ( analog to digital converters, microprocessor, etc.). Since the computer was replaced with the same results, that points to an outside influence. You verified grounds, now it's time to verify powers. If those are good, I suspect some connected components are shorting high or low, causing that portion of the computer to malfunction.
Come on man, thanks snappy, you know what I mean! You know what I mean! You know what I mean! 😂😂 Yet another great video in a laughter an educational sense. Had my eyes peeled on the screen the whole time laughing and intrigued to see what is going on. Looking forward to the next one.
Hey brother good to see another video and in my opinion your an master at electrical stuff but just incase you don't have one try the power probe brand ETC3000 and for that issue with the snap-on and the functionality I would be curious to see if the autel elite would do the same test but have that option on the scope still available!
@@m.mooverssr9211 I only asked cause I have the autel ms906ts and it doesn't have split screen mode so was just curious if it would resolve that particular issue. I am an fan of what autel offers in there scan tools and one day would like to afford the elite or something alittle better. Tech stuff like electric work can be addictive lol
My 2002 explorer is not starting, it cranks but won't stay running. Just before it did this to me I was driving down the road and I heard what sounded like a metal piece falling from the engine. My dad is a mechanic and he already swapped out the fpr/damper the fuel pump, (this was after the no start) recently before this issue like 2 or 3 months ago swapped the injectors out, ignition coils and even spark plugs. Also swapped out the MAF sensor, now we have ordered a compressor kit (cheap one from amazon) and he is hoping he can track down where it isn't having enough fuel. (He did the Schrader valve check after replacing the fuel pump and there is a noticeable difference in the amount of fuel that is coming out.) Still he and other seem to be quite puzzled by the metal rattling I heard while driving and it stopped after it, which I do not think is coincendtal. We do NOT think it was the timing chain as there isn't major damage to anything in the engine bay. Also it was not knocking before it did this. Deleted previous version of this as it had incorrect info lol.
Reminds me of case study Eric O. and Ivan did where a harness was replaced but the pin out was different at the ecm. Been a while since I watched it so I don’t remember 100% but I think it was a O2 heater codes and had no ground cause the harness had the ground pin going to a different pin than the ground on the computer.
Yeah, that was the engine swap in a Hyundai that had a mid year pin placement change at the ECU and they left the engine harness on the used engine. :0 That was a good one.
I feel he want down the rabbit hole on the + side. The power to the components tested was strong, move on. No connection to the computer somewhere like you mentioned or bad box. Voltage drop test on the grounds to the pcm, I feel that should have been a loaded test with the headlight bulb testing the grounds for a draw.
Hi Paul, Im sorry if you already have been asked this... But when are you going to make your test lights available? And how or where will we be able to purchase one?.... Thank you in advance! .0)
Hey I had a quick question, you mention in a lot of your videos that you can feel when a misfire is a secondary ignition and call it out. What does that feel like? I'm guessing it's the misfires that jerk real hard and you can feel really easily from inside the vehicle?
I’ve replaced a bunch of these pcms for this issue and one time it took a second computer to fix it. So a replacement PCM is not immune to having this issue out of the box. They’ve become hard to get now so that tells me this is a very common thing with these.
you know what I mean shirts while holding a tube of doctor shudder fix. I'll buy that shirt. Danner's got many great one liners that would make nice shirts.
bought a use 2015 ford fiesta in december, 31k miles. A week after driving the hell out of the car, the first frosty morning, the car wouldn't go into reverse but started. Essentially got the car to reboot by romoving the battery but after a key cycle and 7 mile trip, c heck engine light came back on and then as i slowed own to pull back into y driveyway, i could tell i was losing power. i got into the driveway and the car shut down. Had low voltage readings in the TCM actuators( i bought a scan tool to try and diagnose after car wouldn't jump start) ended up being the originaly battery to the car from 2015... this was 2021 mid december. I put a new battery on and cleared codes but could never get the car to crank back over. Did some test and seemed like a TCM issue and ordered a backordered TCM. 4 weeks later, preprogramed TCM didnt fix the issue. ordered used PCM , didnt fix it... Found two bad grounds eventually, one lose, one rat pissed on..... (no change, no crank, no start) eventualy gave up, and the night before i was goign to tow it to a ford dealership, i put all the originally modules into the vehicle. I rescanned, saw a PATS issue, reprogrammed the two keys, was able to finish TCM adaptive learning because i could finaly able to shift in and out of gear and start the car.... Never saw or maybe i overlooked the initial PATS issue. such a shit show but i learned a lot...
The reman PCM’s are probably “reman’d” at the same place the ECC-IV distributor modules are made. 🤣😂 Getting a used unit from e-bay or a wrecker is probably a safer way to go.
Hey Paul I hope you see this but I went to a snap on training at Dorman products in Colmar pa.[before covid] they and asked Jason Gabrenas why they don't have the meter tab and he said they know of the problem but he doesn't think they are going to do anything about it also I have the 21.4 update and still no change
I ran into a similar problem on an older Explorer. The vehicle was setting a purge ckt code. The purge solenoid was partially shorted. The pcm would only pull the voltage down to about 2 volts on the control side. Someone had already replaced the pcm without changing the purge valve, but the problem didn't go away. The shorted purge valve burned out the driver in the new pcm, and it still would only pull down to 2 volts and set the same code. The newer pcms have current limiting devices in them, but maybe a shorted solenoid could cause the voltage to not pull down all the way, and might be causing the voltage spikes when the solenoid is deenergized. The spikes seem to appear at the end of the test when things are deenergized.
I'm almost certain the voltage pulled down to zero after the repair. The problem was solved. It was quite a while ago. At that time I didn't have a lab scope so I can't say for sure if the voltage spikes were in the supply voltage. This was a 2002, but it looks like the same valve they used back then. Possibly a bad suppression diode? After watching your video a second time I thought I saw them when you did the KOEO test with the purge valve disconnected. Good luck. I've been doing driveability since the early seventies and really enjoy watching your case studies. I've suggested to several younger techs who want to learn diagnostics to subscribe to your premium channel.@@ScannerDanner
It would be nice with a Pico station to hook up at your brother's shop nice case study I guess it could be anything PCM back feed from something like a solenoid or something external aftermarket in an old car spliced in this is interesting thanks all Danners
Hi Danner I had the same problem in f150 from three years ago and it was that the wire tatching the exhaust manifold so maybe if you checked the wire from the fuse box to the other way maybe you find it
Windows 10 on the Zeus has what you are looking for. I know it doesn’t help you on the verus which is frustrating. I wonder if it’s the scan tool causing that spike ? Could that be?
Good day! Just wanted to clarify is the sensor ground supplied by the engine computer also 5 volts? Not 12 volts? I'm a bit confused since the reference signal is 5 volts positive what should the ground be? Thank you very much!
@@ScannerDanner thank you sir I was just wondering if the reference signal is 5 volts positive how is it that the ground signal from the ecm is 12 volts? So only the reference signal is filtered to create 5volts? So is it possible to check the ground signal from the ecm with a multimeter red lead to battery positive and black lead to the ecm's ground wire? Thank you very much for replying!
@@raymundsantos2324 This one has bad computer grounds and high voltage on both the 5v ref lines and the sensor ground circuits ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1Nvyc_88AbY.html This one has an intermittent bad computer ground too ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fp_XZm-8nrA.html
@@ScannerDanner thank you very much sir! I'm watching your videos right now (the Cadillac 5v short to ground and previously the TPS signal shorted to 12v). I want to look for tips to fix my Nissan SUV's 0123 and 0223 codes without frying the computer. Your videos are very very informative!
Not that I'm impatient at all, but when do we get hit with Pt2? 😁 I'm eager to know the resolution, and I have a sneaking suspicion that either those spikes are normal and something else is wrong, or there is one of the solenoids on that circuit that's spiking the computer.
So if it makes you feel any better I have just made the same exact call for the same exact reason Friday. There are even pids that tell you circuit state and they say fault right away. I didn't want to make a call on the pcm but I did cause I couldn't think of why it would set a circuit fault with the voltage and control at the pcm. Plus bidirectional controls also work without an issue. Please tell me what you found. I can go to the chat on the premium side of you don't want to say it here on youtube.
I'm getting codes on my 08 explorer, got another pcm had Ford dealership program it. But it's still throwing the same codes such as RSC, abs tracking control, Transmission is not catching gear like it should and slow forward. how much would you charge me to fix it? I don’t have a lot of money. I’m on disability.
I'm sorry you're on disability, and that you've spent money that didn't fix your issue. The problem you now face is that literally every step that has been taken, and parts replaced to fix your issue, are now also suspect, making the job even more complex! We can't take this job on, as we don't do long distance repairs, but jobs like like we start at a $1000 retainer type of agreement. This would cover all the testing procedures, time and research of your system and is not part of any repairs that may be needed. I'm only quoting this to you to prepare you for what you're going to face should you find someone who does the type of work we do. I have a shop directory on my website of garages who are using my training material for their techs. Maybe you'll find one in your area. I'm not saying they will all use the $1k retainer type fee for problem cars, but I want you to be prepared to pay for the time it will take to sort this out. If I haven't scared you away, here is a link to my shop directory scannerdanner.com/find-sd-shops.html
I think its the fuse box itself explaining why you feel the voltage spike from the short is after the link I think it might be the isolation board underneath the fuse socket maybe try swapping for the other explorer danner said he had in the shop and see if the codes go away
Because if I'm not mistaken the PCM sends the power from the fuse box to the components meaning the voltage spike would not be present on any harness before the fuse box until the 5v reference is sent through the fuse and to the isolation board and then to the pin connector and component harnesses
Meaning the short occurs between multiple components after the fuse and before the splice you were looking into in the harness and I think the fuse box(isolation board) is the only place you might not be able to probe even from both sides of the fuse because the short occurs right after that
elevated ground on the circuits with ecm grounds good would infer a bad ground rail in the computer. BUT be very careful since an engine harness was replaced it is very possible and i have seen it where wire colors and pin assignments have changed half way through a model year. swapping power and ground on some sensors will definitey cause bad juju and it only takes one in that conglomerated circuit.
Hi sir, pardon me but there's something I don't understand if a code says throttle or pedal position sensor high input does that mean the signal wire is grounded? Is it possible to unplug the connector and test the signal wire directly if it is indeed shorted? Thank you very much!
High input is typically an open circuit (either the sensor ground or signal wire or an open in the sensor itself) there is a bias voltage used on the signal circuit, that will create a high voltage signal (5v) with an open
@@ScannerDanner Good morning sir, sorry to bother you but I tried bench testing our Nissan xtrail's pedal position sensor and I got mixed results. I checked both circuits 5v pin to signal pin, 5v pin to ground pin. On 1 circuit, both had low to high and high to low ohmmeter reading. But on the other circuit, only 1 pair of pins had low to high reading, the other pair of pins remained constant at 3.93 kilo ohms. Is this normal? Thank you!
@@raymundsantos2324 I never bench test or ohm out position sensors. Voltage sweep on the car is the way to go. To get the throttle to open if your testing a TPS on an electronic throttle body system, with the key on, engine off, put the car in gear and then push the gas pedal (app sensor), it should then respond
That's my question not in your video. Following pin 46 green wire powers 6 sensors looking for a voltage drop. (My question . Could a faulty break relay trigger a pending code)
So getting back to this explorer issue . Had code issues that are problematic. So after moving touching wiring connections. I found several bare wires touching. Yeah. Worked on repairing those problems & found a others same condition should have everything in order & in a few days . So my point is check for old deteriorating wires around the connection plug 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻😎
@@ScannerDanner okay thanks, I'll buy it along with a good oscilloscope, what do you think about the micsig AT01104 automotive oscilloscope ? It's a 4 channel tablet oscilloscope around ~$550, should I go for it or something else ?
@@thesmartguy3523 honestly i know nothing about it, but my suggestion is to post this question to my forum. It is free to join and I have over 25k global members and 4 hand picked moderators who help me help you guys and I'm certain we can provide you with feedback on a number of different scopes www.scannerdanner.com Hope to see you there!
@@thesmartguy3523 I own one of them ( migsic ATO 1140).I will tell you my opinion/review, what I have seen so far, after 1+ year of using it. It is a great oscilloscope to start(not only), it has a lot of ' guick peak up sensor test' ,and I mean with that, that if you want to check a crank sensor, cam sensor ,potentiometer etc etc, you click the sensor from the menu (wich I find it very easy to operate it) ,and it's set up the oscilloscope automatically, so you don't have to set it up manually, this is very helpful if you are a beginner(and advanced😅). The only thing that I have found a disadvantage, is that it's not many (training)videos out there)how to operate it, especially when you have to deal with can bus(communication), and mostly, how to play with the math channel and stuff like that. Not a problem of the oscilloscope at all, just if you are a beginner, you need someone to teach you,cause take a bit longer time to explore it😏. Picoscope don't have this problem, because there are billions of videos out there, if ya know what I mean.... Before I bought it,i wasn't sure if it's good/should I buy it? they gave (from the company i bought it)a phone number of a garage which this guy is an oscilloscope freak, he owns all the oscilloscope brands 🤔 ,he told me 'go for it',he was very happy, 80% of the jobs he using the migsic because it's very handy to walk with it in the garage, and the other 20% (the really difficult cases),he has to go with the pico. I hope I help you. what ever help you need, if you go for it or not, you can give me a buzz.
@@Lambros_Stefaneas Thanks for the insight, I look forward to buy it now, quick question, what comes with the scope as kit ? Do you get any pressure transducers or attenuators by any chance ? What about inductive amps clamp ? I'd really like to know before I purchase, so I know what to other accessories to purchase
30 min into video and one case just came to my mind: EGR valve of some french cars was grounding 5V feed to ground...but here, something does the same to 12V.
Paul I had this problem and after 3 PCM'S I got a used one and programed it you need to leave the key off and keep trying it and then you can write the vin very easy after your first one the Ford guy his last name starts with a m just look up Ford Programming a used computer
Hello master dinner.i have toyota corolla verso 2004 I was trying to relearning the clutch actuator and I have lost the N light and I don't know what to do to get light back. I'm little mechanical here in Saudi Arabia and I have been follow you about five years ago. Please helpe me
Post this to my forum. It is free to join and we can absolutely help you there. www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here/3757-need-service-info-check-here.html
Not sure why you are hesitating to unplug the o2s as you unplugged the other things on that circuit, not sure where the grounds are for those heater circuits but a spike up and down like that leads me to think it is one of those o2s or the a/c clutch as those are the only ones you mentioned that draw enough power to do that (and your headlamp drawing like that also proved that when a good 5amp or so load kicks on it drops to 6v)
With so many defective parts being sold, the recently replaced part is the first suspect. But we still need to go through the diagnostic steps, if we look at it from a business sense and use an appropriate business model defective parts can double your profits in the diagnostic business. Then, give all the documentation to the customer and he/she can take the parts supplier to court to recover the part of the cost from the bad part and the parts supplier can either put it through insurance or take the part manufacturer to court. This is my diagnostic solution to this increasing problem. Any one have a better solution ?
You should use the pico more, it's a better scope a cheaper non automotive version is available to your viewers to play with for less than $150 and you won't ever have issues with sharing the screen
@ScannerDanner splash out on a new or used Panasonic toughbook, not cheap but I'm sure you won't regret it. I have one for work and they take all the abuse that we need in a workshop. I had ours fall about 5ft off a bonnet with almost no damage at all, still working fine 2 years later and does great for all the automotive software ( vcds, Bosch KTS & CDR, Abrites, BMW ISTA, Forcom etc)
