In this video we go over the only logical method to maintaining the Front Differential on your Ford Truck.These are the Parts and Tools I Recommend: 80W-90 Axle Fluid (2 Quarts Needed)- amzn.to/2FQRtJA Thread Sealant- amzn.to/2FSNxrL Basic Brake Bleeder- amzn.to/2FQ157r High Suction Brake Bleeder- amzn.to/2pnDjIC Fill Pump- amzn.to/2pipJqK Fill Plug Torque Spec- 18ft lbs
Just tried this, and while it wasn’t bad, it is much more difficult with the truck on level ground (rather than on jackstands or a lift). There is not much space to get under the truck to access the differential. Next time, I’ll put all four corners up on jackstands. The 20 minutes it will take to jack up the truck will save at least an hour. Also, warming the new gear lube (I set the bottles in a tub of hot water) makes pumping the lube into the differential much easier. Another great video, though. Thanks!
I'am always amazed with these DIY auto maintenance video and most in the comments section asking about specific issues with their vehicles. This guy in particular offers some excellent advice, but that is never enough. He has almost 900k subscribers and a 'full time job' on the side, doubt there is time to answer your specific questions.
Man you are my "Go To" for anything I do on my Explorer! Definitely the most knowledgeable Ford Tech I've found online or anywhere for that matter, and your presentations on what you're doing is so straight forward and precise! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and making life easier when it comes to maintaining my Ford! Much appreciated!
Thanks MAkuloco, OI just changed the oil of my 2002 Expedition. OMG I have never changed before, and have the tryck for all these years. Go Ford!! found full amount of dirty oil, now will change my rear one. Girls, foolow this guy. I am a 61 year old lady!!
Great info. Husband just got me a2022 Expedition Timberline. I told them I needed a fresh oil change and all fluids topped off/checked before purchasing. (The dealership had it for 8-9 months and put 2,200 miles on it) Talking with the maintenance manager he said either 100 or 150k for the differential. I called it out “that is after our warranty ends” and the first oil change was done at almost 8,500 miles. I worked on cars with me Dad since I was a kid. Still keeping my 2022 Santa Fe (last car I worked on with him before he passed away unexpectedly). Husband knows I’m going to take care of this vehicle and do services (bring it in while under warranty till 2030) to keep the engine performing well. I swear they (dealerships) recommend schedules to just get you pass warranty lol
That isn’t the dealerships doing that, it’s direct from the MoCo. Check your owners manual or get a shop manual for it. You’ll find that ford has been pushing those recommendations for a while. I have a 2014 Navigator and even during that time, the recommended transmission, transfer case, and differential service intervals are ALL 150,000 miles. I do mine every 25k just so I’m keeping the intervals easier to remember based on mileage.
I was able to remove the front cover by trimming off the corners on the bottom of the housing that stick out on either side below the cover with a hacksaw. Once I got the cover off and cleaned it up, I ground the lip on the top corner on the drivers side about 1/2 way down to make it easier to put back up. It`s better to take it off and get all that crud out of there. It worked for me and thought I would pass it along. I have a 2012 Raptor.
I have used a marine engine oil sucker for years to do this front differential and rear end oil changes. Yes, at one point you do need to pull that rear cover as you perfectly explain in another video. Ty for sharing with all of us. I am a 2007 F150 5.4 3v owner. You have helped always
I wish my truck was this clean underneath. MD/PA roads kill in the winter. Another, as usual, phenomenal video! You've saved me so much time and money on working on my F150. Thanks for taking the time.
Power washed underside of my 2011 rust belt f150 then sprayed entire chassis twice with phosphoric acid and allowed it to dry then painted it with black primer and then 2 coats flat black rust paint . After paint was dry I sprayed entire truck with chain bar oil thinned with kerosene doing inside frame crossmembers suspension hood tailgate doors rockers and pillars box front fenders . Prior to oil undercoating I welded in rockers and cab corners refinished painted them and drilled 1/2 inch holes in sills and pillars to get oil into all welded and damaged areas to prevent future rust .
Aahh, the many uses for the Vacula. Perfect for bailing out the HPOP resevoir on the 6.0's. Also great for an overfilled trans because you can measure and mark the hose to the dipstick to suck it down to the correct level. My Vacula started to collapse so I put a PVC pipe coupler inside to stop it from sucking in on itself. Good video.
I just took my truck to the shop to have this done thinking/expecting this was what they were going to do. The mechanic took off the cover not realizing that it wouldn't come out of there. They mechanic and owner were stymied for a while but realizing they didn't have an option getting it out at that point. They were able to twist and turn and pivot it in some way that it actually came out. I told him he should have videoed it to post so they would become RU-vid famous for how to do it. I wish I had seen it. He showed me a photo with the cover off and nothing else had been removed from all the steering assembly.
That’s how I got mine off and back on. You can rotate it enough to get it off without removing the steering rack. I’d recommend a gasket rather than RTV for the reinstallation. RTV got everywhere (still sealed though) and I will end up swapping to a gasket next time I do the job.
I've just completed my 1st attempt to change the fluid in mine. Working on the floor of my garage with the truck on rams and jack stands. I attempt the removal of the fluid with a 1.5 liter manual extractor, it did not go well. In Brian's video it showed him moving the front wheel slightly to facilitate the insertion of a small diameter tube. I was not able to get mine tube in properly and consequently was only able to extract about 700-800 mils. I would recommend the truck be off the ground so front wheels can be moved also the use of an air driven extractor be used as well. There's no gain if there ain't any pain,cheers.
Another great video! Would you consider doing a video on how to clean intake valves for us Ecoboost owners? Would love to see how you'd go about doing it
That's why your vehicles look the way they do. Try driving on winter roads with snow, ice, salt, and sand. See what your vehicle looks like in 5-10 years. I'm jealous when I watch videos of vehicles from States like yours.
The rust is unreal,it looks like the front end sit in a creek, the manifolds had holes on the bottom of the exhaust ports,starter, wires melted from the heat, I got 15 of 16 studs out with welding nuts and building the stud up above the head surface to weld the nut on, replacing the vacuum operated front differential lock with a cable and doing away with the vacuum components, manual shifter,my shop will be completed when I get a lathe, milling machine, aluminum Tig.slight rain this morning, I bought the 1997 F-150 for 600 off a lot,had another sitting beside it and the frame was shot,it came from West Virginia and when I am finished restoring will be like new condition.
wow, you are really good. Just bought a 2012 with 160,000 miles and it needed some work. With your videos such as this I have changed the rear diff pinion seal and now the front diff oil. Thanks and subscribed, I think I may need some more advice in the near future.
I engage my 4 wheel drive monthly for about 10 miles. To warm up transfer case and front differential and try to boil off any water.seems to help. I also change out these fluids on a reasonable interval.
Great vid. I love how all the companies could just put a drain plug in the bottom of everything but for some “unknown” reason never do. Again great video man. You have helped me maintain my 06 f150 to 290k miles. Thank you so much!!!
With your guidance, I took on the Front Differential fluid change. With the pump I bought it was rather easy, although it wasn’t easy getting the suction tube down into the lowest area of the reservoir. Had to keep messing around. The level seemed low also. 2021 F150 58,000 klm. I know I’m early, but I thought it was a good idea considering the recent break in period. Surprisingly it was grey from small filings. The fluid seemed very dirty. Anyway, once again I want to thank you for the great direction!
brotha answer the question, help us out. Per another users question: "did you use a plastic tube at the end of the hose as well or did you just put the hose in?"
My 2015 f150 had a lot of water in the rear differential truck only has 17k miles on it ford rebuilt it but it didnt fix my whining noise bringing it back for round 2 thank you for the videos they are very educational
Thanks for posting this, this is the last fluid needing service on my 06 scab, just bought a fluid extractor for the trans service so my garage didn't look like a slaughter house from the pan drop. Looks like another wise tool purchase I made, as it can do this too. Had 3 bolts that i had to fight coming out on the trans pan, 12 years with roadsalt and no antiseize on the bolts, even impact wouldn't move them, had to fight them by hand forward and reverse with aerokroil, what a job!! Had to buy a tap to repair threads in trans case.
All your video are so informative I love to watch over and over it helps me every time I do something new on my vehicles. And when I do it I know it is done right.
gotta love the bean counters. cutting corners and making service difficult. is it really that expensive to put drain plugs in shit? maybe if they stopped overloading vehicles with useless creature features and distracting electronics they could save money. lol
cougar10ag It’s our fault, as consumer, we are attracted by the shiny bells and whistles. Most people who buy a truck just want to show off, their truck is always shiny and clean with fancy rims....
I'm wondering if I dare carefully drilling the bottom of the case, tapping with a 1/4" fine thread, and using a short 1/4" fine thread bolt, with sealer applied, to plug the hole? I'll have to think about it ?
I had a very difficult time with this. Even though I was using a small diameter tube, there was only a very small window where I could get it in past the gears.
@@jaym7369 I don’t think it would matter. I had my son rotating a tire very slowly back and forth until I found a spot to get past the gears. I don’t think jacking would move the fluid out of the sump.
Some info from just doing this on my 2012 f150 eco boost 4x4. Using a mityvac mv6830 at about 100 psi on a 3.5hp 60 gallon single stage compressor I got about 43oz out before I couldn't get anymore. I attached some aquarium air hose to it and it worked great. Took about an hour and half letting the compressor cool down some as the mityvac is an air hog. Roughly a quart of 80w-90 went back in.
Thanks for the tips a real time saver given the option of pulling the cover. Unfortunately I didn’t have a bleeder ,compressor or mightyvac. But I did have a girlfriend that could suck a watermelon through a soda straw . A piece of fuel line duct taped to 1/4 line wait 7 hours and bone dry . I also pre drained it by jacking up the drivers side got a lot out before she started to suck. Only problem was she tasted like oil a week later when I kissed her lol . Thanks for the great videos !
I went after this before this video was released. I was able to take out the two steering rack bolts which gave me JUST enough room to get the cover out. In hind sight i would have rather done it this way. But i was able to completely clean out the differential.
I changed the fluids in my Explorer. I soaked the bottles of gear oil in hot water in the sink to warm up the oil so it would pump easier. Seemed to help somewhat.
This video came out just in time. I am going through the 50k maintenance, transmission, transfer case, rear diff, front diff, and spark plugs. I have been watching other video on the front diff, and they struggled with cover. I was thinking, it might be better to drop the front axle. Also the transfer case on my 2016 F150 Lariat says, “Use MERCON LV ONLY.”
Just a thought but might want to take compressed air (don't forget your safety glasses) or small wire brush and clean around the threads of the plug after you break it loose but before it's actually removed. Love your Videos!
I do that sometimes if there is enough gunk packed around it otherwise if you think about it we are removing the plug outwards, then wiping the threads and on top of that changing the fluid.
I also found out the hard way not to use a socket and ratchet on one of the top bolts. I got it on and after backing out a couple threads it got jammed against the steering rack. Holy crap what a pain it was to get it out. I actually tried cutting it with a sawzall but it wouldn’t cut thru. I eventually just bashed it out with a 2.5lb hammer and the cheap ratchet mechanism broke allowing for room for it to fall out. So use a long extension to reach the top 2 bolts thru front near oil filter with no problem.
After watching this video i had both diff fluids changed, transfer case fluid,and trans filter with fluid. Front diff had little milkyness in it so the opened it up and checked it out. All was well.
Cant get the hose past the hole so i quit.Alot of fluid came out from the hole so im guessing its filled with water or overfilled from factory either way I bought a warranty for a reason let it blow apart.
I like this channel.I have 3 Ford truck restorations going on with 1982-3 build F-350,E-250econoline camper, turtle top,351WHO,1985,35,000mi ,1997 4.6,4x4 short bed,5-speed.351W in the F-350, it's been built with several parts trucks,has mechanical clutch instead of hydraulic,4-speed, not sure what the transmission year is,it tops out 60-70, lower geared, I would like to find a small block, carburetor, engine to stick in until I get the 2 351W rebuild complete, I was told that 351W would interchange with the 4.6, I should have went to headers instead of the new Dorman exhaust manifolds, I got a new NAPA pipe bender I have had and it's never been used,12ton hydraulic, also want to bend the headlights surround on the huge chrome front bumper guard.Challenge.
I think I'll do that on the rear differential as well, just to save the hassle of taking the diff cover off and putting a new gasket around it and risk leaking over time.
4 года назад
n310ea No gasket on rear cover. At least not on 1997. 2002 F-150’s. Don’t forget friction modifier if your Ford has the limited slip. Rear
Can you please do a video on how to change the oil on the 3.5L Ecoboost without making and mess and without a lift? I specifically have this engine in a 2016 Expedition.
changing the oil in the 3.5EB has got to be the most annoying oil change I've done out of about 12 different vehicles I maintain. I HATE doing an oil change on it, but what I did to make it slightly more tolerable is remove the oil drain plug bolt and replace with a Fumoto oil drain valve. You can then route flexible plastic tubing from the nipple of the Fumoto into a drain pan. It takes 3x longer to drain that way, but you won't have oil splashed on EVERYTHING if you had simply removed the drain bolt. Now.....reaching up feeling and spinning off the oil filter and hoping it drains in the "tray" is the 2nd joke of the oil change procedure. I usually take 3 valiums and wash it down with a shot of whiskey before doing an oil change also.
EXACTLY! The filter is the biggest issue. I've actually researched remote filter kits, but I'm afraid I can't trust the hoses as far as leaking or bursting.
I recently came up with the idea of putting a cardboard box under my drain pan to lift it up higher to the drain plug. It leaves little room between the pan and the plug so there is less room for it to splash out everywhere. It seemed to work great the one time I have used it so far.
Thanks for the video. I’m trying to look up the same vinyl tubing you mentioned but everything I’m seeing looks way too flexible. Any chance you have a link to the less flexible end tubing you used?
FORDTECHMAKULOCO, LET ME START BY SAYING I AM AN INCREDIBLE FAN OF YOUR CHANNEL, AND HAVE LONG BEEN A SUB! WITH YOUR EASY TO FOLLOW,FACTORY RECOMMENDATIONS, CORRECT TORQUING PROCESSES,AND NEVER ANY " WELL YOU'RE SUPPOSED TO DO.....BUT" I HAVE FOLLOWED YOUR TIMING GUIDE REPLACEMENT VIDEO FOR THE 5.4 3V . I WATCHED THE SERIES SEVERAL TIMES AND THEN STEP BY STEP. AND EXACTLY AS YOU SAID,NO PROBLEMS,NO ISSUES,THE JOB WAS COMPLETED, IT WAS CORRECT,AND NOW THAT TRUCK SOUNDS AND RUNS LIKE THE TRUCK YOU USED IN THE DEMONSTRATION VIDEO! I CAN NOT BEGIN TO EXPRESS MY GRATITUDE AND APPRECIATION, FOR A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC TAKING THE TIME TO SHARE( FREE OF CHARGE) THE PROCESSES REQUIRED TO COMPLETE THESE JOBS SUCCESSFULLY! NEXT TO TIME AND MONEY,INFORMATION IS THE THIRD MOST VALUABLE COMMODITY TO OBTAIN. THE RESULTS OF THE TIMING GUIDE PROJECT WERE SO GOOD THAT IVE DECIDED TO COMPLETE AN ENTIRE MAINTENANCE PROJECT. A LITTLE BIT SHOCKING,THE FLUIDS FOR FRONT & REAR DIFFERENTIALS,THE TRANSFER CASE AS WELL AS TRANSMISSION AND OIL WERE NEARLY $300!! THANKFULLY THIS IS NOT A PROCESS SCHEDULED ON A MONTHLY BASIS! AFTER LOOKING AT NUMEROUS "HOW TO" VIDEOS TO COMPLETE THE MAINT. ,AGAIN IVE FOUND YOUR VIDEO,AND AGAIN FAST,COMPLETE AND CORRECT!! ONE CAN EASILY SEE YOU CONTINUING AS A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC UNTIL YOUR READY TO RETIRE! THANK YOU,THANK YOU,THANK YOU,FOR THE EFFORT AND INFORMATION THAT YOU PROVIDE IN THE VIDEOS ON YOUR CHANNEL!!
Great video if you get a chance I have a trouble shooting question because I'm sure you never get any of those. I have a 2010 explorer xlt 4x4 I have replaced both CV joints one CV joint seal to the differential both inner tie rods both tie rod ends when I have the car in Reverse or drive with emergency brake on I still hear noise from the front differential not sure if I've got a diff gear gone bad in the front or if the CV joints are not engage properly on the front any ideas as to what that maybe I know it's a broad-spectrum question just looking for a shot in the dark.
I plan to drill n tap the bottom of the differential cover and add a drain plug. 3/8-16 tap with a brass plug or a short bolt. Obviously not long enough to interfere with the internal workings of the gears. What do you think about this?
Brian, start a mechanic repair shop franchise. You do things right, how they should be done. Let's find some mechanics who share your values and beliefs about auto repair. Open up mini-me locations across the US. We really need to get back to apprenticeships. One on one instruction. Creating excellence in automotive repair. You can create online dialogs or video referrals with other mechanics on how to repair or diagnose when things get complicated. If I was a mechanic, I'd fly down there and work under your guidance for free. Learn how to do things right.
Fairly confident the bulk of your viewers would help you fund this via gofundme or another fundraising method. If you lived closer and not a days drive away all of my vehicles would be serviced by you.
Why can't we just loosen the bottom bolts on diff itself? Preserving a gasket I suppose? I know this is probably a stupid question, but having never actually done any diff work, I am curious. Love the channel FTM!!
Hey brian my name is wesley I absolutely love it channel and all ur videos. I accidentally put 5 pumps worth of transfer case fluid in my front differential instead of gear oil 😪😪 . Would you completely drain the front differential and put all new gear oil in or leave it be. Plz help I'm thinking of just draining and refilling with new gear oil. Thanks again
My wife has a 2014 Ford Fusion......just changed the engine compartment purge valve as they say there are 2 in the system...the dealer said it was the front, so I changed it today. Every time we fill the car with gas it wont start unless you pump the gas pedal while it cranks.......we do have that burping/farting noise on occasion and the car has lost power up to the point that my wife has to pull off the road......so hopefully this fixes that? time will tell. The car also has a parasitic draw that causes the battery to die overnight (so I put it on my charger overnight every night to keep it charged, a pain in the ....)and the interior fuse block is way up in the top left corner of under the drivers side dash where I can't even get to it and check the fuse block for it...... I used to work at a Ford/Lincoln/Mercury Dealership, and now remember why I left it to work at GM dealers...it is unfortunate because the Fusion is an impressive car for a Ford. lol And almost forgot to mention once the transmission is "hot" and you put in reverse...it wont engage without applying gas and then it SLAMS into reverse. Other than these problems it is a nice car I wish we could get rid of.
I was searching for a rattling noise under my truck. With the drivers side tire off the ground i could hear clunking in my front differential when I spun my tire forward and reverse by hand. Is that normal? I’m thinking that’s the source of my rattle since everything else in the suspension, tie rods, bearings ect. seems tight
Subject is a 2011F250 SD 4x4 6.7 with 170K on the ticker. Front diff never serviced but probably less than 2K in 4x4 mode. I,m thinking a cover removal and full clean out lots more work but me thinks the correct approach. YES??
I have a question for you. I hear a low volume/high pitched whine only at 50-55mph. It cuts out once I get towards 60mph. The only info I have been able to find is possibly the front differential. I drive a 2012 FX4. Does this make sense? Awesome video, been subscribed for a long time. Thanks
Wish your shop was in south texas . I need to do a coolant flush per maintenance schedule at 100K miles . 1.3 k miles away . I feel I could do it but Where i live they don't allow you to work on your cars at the driveway no garage so I have to goto the dealer for a flush.
I would think if the hand pump works to put the fluid in , it should work to pump out the old fluid if you attach a hose to the end that goes into the quart bottle, and insert the other end into the diff.. Might be slow but how often does a diyer need to do this ?
Could you possibly make an inspection video of the differential parts? My output axle on the driver side has some up and down play, not certain If that’s normal.
I just watched your rear diff fluid change. I was thinking the fluids would be the same (75W-120 used in that one) Just not need in the front bc of less use/wear?
Do you think it would be ok to use rhino ramps on the front end while I change the diff oil to have more room underneath? My truck is not lifted and I don't have access to a lift. Can I use the ramps or should i just lift the truck up and apply jack stands on 4 corners?
OK I hope you can definitely answer this question I have a 2009 F150 and I’m having a bad problem with the rear bouncing it seems to me it comes from the left side of the rear of the truck Here are the things that I did myself to figure it out or limited it which did not work Rear traction bars Driveshaft replaced with all new u joints and seals I replace the rear wheels and tires I replace my rear shocks with new one my left shock was completely shot Having new one it’s still doing the same thing I don’t know if It’s the wheel bearings in the rear or differential differential fluid was changed as well what is your opinion ??? So whatever’s going on on my left side destroyed my rear left shock
Hey big fan here watching your videos all the time nice work. I want to ask a question the rear differential and the front differential are the same gear Ratio or they're slide difference. The vehicle is Ford Explorer 2004 4X4
Is this method worth it if the front/rear diffs aren't leaking? Would rather not take the covers off if it's not leaking and use this method to remove as much fluid as possible, and fill.
