First, thanks for all the videos!!! Second, I had this issue, took the motor/fan out like you showed and sprayed it down with WD-40. It took me two tries to finally hit that sweet spot, but if anyone out there wants to try that and it works for them and saves money, it worked for me. That was a year and half ago, still quiet.
Thanks for sharing!! Would you please share your approach to hit that sweet spot? Since I've tried several times but still can't get it fixed. Thank you!
Perfect! I had the same issue in my 2010 Fusion. Local dealer had the part in stock for $145. Took me 30 mins start to finish and that was watching the video and finding the tools which was 20mins! Awesome!
I brought my 2010 Mercury Milan in TWICE for this issue, and the dealership conveniently couldn't hear any chirping. Finally I gave up and "fixed it" by turning the speed higher or the radio up louder. I had no idea this was a common problem. Now I know how to fix it. Thank you.
Thank you Thank you Thank you for this! Just changed my blower motor and it works like a charm! I was quoted 300 for this 5 minute job from the dealer.....saved myself 200! Please do more videos on the ford fusion if u have time :)
Thanks for this, my 2009 was making a chirping noise so I pulled out the motor. Someone on Ebay is selling the Motorcraft replacement for $40 with shipping so I decided to go with that. I've read about some DIY fixes but I figure getting a replacement is the best option.
My 2012 Fusion had this problem and now my 2018 has the same problem. Had it replaced under warranty in April 2019 and again in October 2019. They need a new supplier as the blower motor is a piece of crap. As much as this is on the internet, this has to be a known issue with Ford, but my dealer acts like mine is the first one to fail. I don't believe that for a minute.
Thanks for the video, I wasn't sure what to ask the parts dept for or which part to remove. Once I knew I had it replaced myself within 2 days. It's been squealing for a while now. Quiet as a mouse now.
For what it's worth, I was able to take off the fan part of the blower motor and clean out the axle and add a touch of lubrication and tighten some of the screws, also when putting the fan back on, I didn't push it back on as far as possible. I have a 2011 ford fusion s (manual for what it's worth), I did check all the electrical connections as well and didn't find anything that looked bad.
Just found this video as I've been hearing the noise on my 2011 SE. A few months out of warranty and I bought it a little over 3 months ago, so I am reluctant to start replacing part already. Will probably try oiling under the white cap, even if it is just a temp solution.
My husband's 12 fusion will stop blowing all together some days then others it only works on 4. The motor chirped prior, so I expect it needs replaced. This video helps me know how to do it! Should I replace the resistor too?
Oh thank you so much for the video! I ordered the part and the nut driver and fixed it myself! I don't even know how much money I saved, but it would have at least been double the cost of the part.
I just did mine. 2010 Ford Fusion. Took about 30 minutes. Hardest part was gripping the tiny screws to get it started. Had to use a 3/16 socket I think
Thanks for the video man. Once I saw how easy it is to get at these, I didn't hesitate to pull mine out. I dropped it out a few minutes ago, pulled the cover screws off and put a few drops of motor oil on both bearings. Quiet as a mouse now. We'll see how long that lasts.
Great video... if it turns out to be the pigtail and resistor... do i have to disconnect the battery to replace those, and if so, do I have to reprogram anything after reconnecting battery? Please help
I suspected the resistor was my issue after watching your video. However when I unplugged the resistor the two prongs in the plug that go to the blower/fan were melted. Is this caused by an issue with the resistor or the blower? Will replacing one or the other solve my problem? Also why wouldn't a fuse have blown before melting the plug? Thanks
Anthony Myers Blower could cause this if there is debri in the blower wheel. More likely is water corroded the resistor and caused high resistance and the heating effect which wouldn't blow the fuse. Replace both the pigtail and resistor and inspect that blower.
FordTechMakuloco I took the blower motor our and tested it and it worked. I took the resistor apart and didn't find any corrosion. So I took the pigtail apart and cleaned the melted ends and put it back together. I plugged everything back together and it works now. I'm concerned why the plug would be burned if everything else is still operational.
great video man! I just got a '10 fusion and it has the chirp for sure. will get the motor off ebay and go at it. Have you ever had any customers complain about Sirius bleeding over into the AUX input (bluetooth for me) at higher volumes. The only thing I've been able to find is that Ford said it's normal and there's nothing to be done! Thought you might have seen the issue with your experience? Thanks a lot for the vids.
FordTechMakuloco replaced the resistor, the blower would come on when it was out and I'd give it s spin jump start. Should have replaced the lower motor in the first place?
I have the dash out on my 07 Fusion S for de-lamination of the vinyl near the RH airbag and the left defroster grille. It has 145K miles. Do you think I ought to change the heater core while I have the dash out or do they rarely need heater cores? It has good heat and no leaks presently.
I have a problem with the fan abruptly stopping and then coming back on and off like a short. The fan works but it just stops like you hit the power off button. Then I play with the buttons back and forth and it usually starts again. Would this be the resistor you think?
+GuitarDudeJoel did you figure out what the problem was? I am having the same thing happen to my 2011, not sure if its the resistor or the blower motor
+Garett Longoria yes, after replacing 3 resistors it was the pigtail that plugs into the resistor that was bad. I paid $62 for a pigtail from ford and spliced it in. It never hurts to replace the blower fan because the bushing grease drips out from heat and also can kill the resistor. Look at the prongs on the resistor. If one is charred, you need a pigtail and a new resistor. Hope this helps.
With so many people reporting a chirping sound with their Ford Fusion blower motors, me being one of them, what exactly is going on within the internals of this motor to cause this issue? Once guy posted a video stating that the hamster cage was rubbing against the molded housing in which the fan is inserted, but I doubt that is the issue with most of these motors, at least that's not what's happening with my motor. When it chirps, I can take my hand and put some pressure on the bottom of the motor unit, which does stop it from chirping for a second or two, so I'm wondering if it's the spinning shank, etc. ???
FordTechMakuloco is just that a friend's 06 fusion is turning off intermittently. I saw the cables to the speed control kinda burned but the resistor is fine. I don't know if it's a blower failure or the resistor or the connector...
What model did you do this replacement on? The 06-09 motor you linked to on amazon, Amazon says it doesn't fit the 09 Fusion. Also, Do you know if Ford ever fixed the OEM blower motor design so that it doesn't start making this chirping noise?
The mm-1061 linked to in the description is the latest one available for the 2009 fusion according to the Ford parts catalog. This blower has changed a few times to fix the concern and Amazon must be behind.
+Joslyn Some do some don't. I think these ones are heated and pressed on so they become non serviceable and that is why they are cracking in the first place. I have seen my share.
When I turn on the fan, nothing turns on until I turn it all the way to the last setting level 4. At that point, ac/heater works fine and air blows like it should. But level 1-3 the blower doesn't engage. What could be the problem? Thanks for your help!
I have replaced this blower motor twice with a ford OEM from the dealer. Still has a problem with intermittently not working. If I hit it with my hand it starts working again. Could it be that the two new ones are defective? I dont mind changing it again, but just curious. thanks
Awesome Video! Thank you soo much! Good job posting the revised parts to purchase from amazon too. Mines a 2011 so thanks for posting each years model.
I had to replace the blower motor, the resistor and resistor pigtail. Now i get it to blow, but it seems to be blowing room temperature air. Any Ideas and how i would repair? I think it my be the blend door actuator? but i dont know if thats it or how i would fix that.
+FordTechMakuloco It is a 2010. Yes, it does. So what happens is that most of the time it is room temp/slightly colder than room temp air coming from the drivers side, but there are times where it seems to work normal and blow nice cold air. Another weird thing is that the passenger side blows really hot air most of the time.
Hello, I was just working on my wife's car trying to fix the blower, it was totally dead. Checked all the fuses, (you know it's not very easy to get under there and try to figure out how to get the cover off ect. & the ones under the hood) none of them were bad so then I replaced the resistor, still no go... so then I whacked the side of the blower and sure enough it started working. So off I go now to auto zone to order a new blower for $58. My advice to anybody doing this is just whack the blower and see if it starts working. This will save you much time & hassle because if it starts working, you won't need to check the fuses or the resistor.
My sticker says it was manufactured "02/2010". On O'Reilly, it says I need part# MM-1091 (out of stock), which is different than what you have listed. What's the difference between 1051 and 1091? Do you recommend purchasing from any specific source? Thanks for your time and video.
If there is any question as to which part number is correct, just call any dealer ask for parts give them the last 8 of the vin and they will give you the exact part number per the vin filter in the parts catalog.
My blower motor was on and suddenly it stopped blowing for about 15-20 seconds then started again. I also noticed a burnt electrical smell shortly after that. I'm guessing the resistor may be making the smell, but since the motor stills runs on high I'm not sure if the resistor is bad. Should I just replace both or is there something else I should check for the burnt smell? Wires, connector or anything else? By the way mine is a 2012 SEL AWD, not sure if that makes a difference or not.
I have a question... does a 2009 comes with cabin air filter? whenever I go to an oil change they can't seem to find that cabin air filter in that glove box...may I presume that 2006-2009 where not equipped or some have and some don't depending on trim. I have 09 SEL...
My blower motor turn on and off. For instance I drove my car a while ago and i turned the AC on and it worked fine for about 2 minutes then turned itself off. I turned it off manually then back on a couple minutes later where it then worked for another 5-8 minutes before I stopped. Was wondering if replacing the motor would fix this or if this is a separate issue.
What if I am not getting any response from the fan speed dial? 1-4 doesn't work. Then once in a while it will kick on and it will work just for the time that I have the car on. Would that still be the speed controller? Or should I still think about replacing the blower motor?
It can happen to all blower motors as they are all usually made by the same manufacturer. Newer escapes have the issue too. If yours sounds like the one in the video the blower motor itself is at fault for sure and I am sure can get annoying.
Great video, mine did this but they fixed it under the warranty... Curious if you know what the problem is when the AC is on and the engine (4cyl) "growls" when taking off from a stop. And then it will also do it when going about 30mph and the engine rpms go way down (like overdrive kicks in). Higher RPMs make it stop. When the AC is off, it doesn't do it. Any ideas? I have taken it in but they wanted to charge a diag fee.
It is the belt and tensioner making the noise under load but depending on the year there is a off the books belt that is a few mm shorter that will really fix it up good, but depends on what year you have, let me know.
ndarmen If it's a 2010 just go in and ask for the belt and tensioner to be changed preferably with the updated parts from ford. They should know all about it. This has been an issue since 2006 model year I have done a many.
If we buy the unit from Amazon, how can we be sure that it is the revised version? Also, according to Ford, the part is MM-1019. I am doing a warranty replacement on the first unit I bought from Amazon as the chirping came back within the 2 year warranty period.
+Scott F MM1091 is the latest blower for your model and year-www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009TKMTXI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B009TKMTXI&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=FT7AP3NJGESASQAC
I have the same issue with my 2012 Fusion. This is the part number the website you listed below gives me AE5Z19805D, $101, BLOWER MOTOR FUSION, MILAN HYBRID; FROM 10/9/10 [ 15 ]. Does this sound like the correct "revised" unit? Thank you for this video. The dealer I bought the vehicle from could not hear the "Chirp" noise so they couldn't fix the issue. So, I am dealing with this on my own.
+stevemcintyremet FORD\LINCOLN\MERCURY AE5Z19805D GENUINE OEM BLOWER MOTOR. This is the motor I had purchased from a dealer off ebay (saved me a bit of money, which was nice) And I was told it is the correct upgraded motor
I have a Ford Fusion 07, and it will not blow any heat at ilde or low RPM's like sitting at a stop light. Fan works great just blows cold air at idle as soon as the RPM's get up to 1500 blows hot air. Any Idea's?
I bought the car used about a year ago and I haven't done any cooling system work, I am not sure what the previous owners did. The level looked OK, it didn't look overly dirty.
krytrons bob Well with that kind of concern your water pump fins are worn or heater core is plugged both are unlikely. The most likely is they changed the thermostat and introduced a air pocket that has worked it way into the heater core. Try this to see if it fixes it- Fill the degas bottle to 25 mm (0.984 in) above the COLD FILL line. Install the degas bottle cap until at least 1 audible click is heard. Turn the climate control system off. Start the engine and increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds. Turn the engine off for and wait for 1 minute to purge any large air pockets from the cooling system. WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury. Check the engine coolant level in degas bottle and if necessary fill to 25 mm (0.984 in) above the top of the COLD FILL LEVEL on the degas bottle if the engine is warm or to the top of the COLD FILL LEVEL if the engine is cold. Start the engine and let it idle until the engine reaches normal operating temperature and the thermostat is fully open. A fully open thermostat is verified by the cooling fan cycling on at least once. Increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds. Allow the engine to idle for 30 seconds. Turn the engine off for 1 minute. Repeat steps 9 through 11 a total of 5 times to remove any remaining air trapped in the system. WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury. Check the engine coolant level in degas bottle and if necessary fill to 25 mm (0.984 in) above the top of the COLD FILL LEVEL on the degas bottle if the engine is warm or to the top of the COLD FILL LEVEL if the engine is cold. Install the degas bottle cap until at least 1 audible click is heard
I having this same issue on my 2011 Fusion, actually have had it replaced once under warranty. Can you confirm the part number for the 2011? Also, do you have to removed the glove box and panel to access?
I just pulled mine out a few minutes ago. There is a little white plastic plug that's removable. Also if you're feeling brave like me, you can pull the three screws and remove the whole plastic housing cover. I dabbed some oil down into the front bearing through the motor housing and on top of the back one and it cleared the sound right up. Try not to get any oil on the electrical contacts though. I imagine that could be a fire hazard.
The fan blade is ticking a little piece of molding. Unplug the motor. Take the three outer bolts off, file/sand down the extra extruded molding then reinstall motor. Your fan motor is fine. Stop buying things you dont need.
I bought a new blower motor from Ford and replaced mine today. I still hear the spinning. Not as bad but definitely still audible. Any items? Could I have gotten the previous model blower again?
Great video, thanks for the effort. I know it can't be much fun to lay on your back in the floorboard while doing the job and holding a video device!! :)
Has anyone tried opening up the OEM blower motor and hitting it with WD-40 instead of doing a full replacement to stop the chirping noise? Does this work?
I had to fight with the sales manager for a hour about it. I have a 2011 fusion sport with 31 thousand miles on it and the Ford dealer here giving me shit about it not happy
You can see the problem at 2:35. "Made in Vietnam" My 2010 Milan sounds exactly like this, unfortunately the reviews on ebay for the 1091 state the new ones still suffer this same fate.
I have the same issue. As well as a bunch of other issues. Ford is shit. Such a big difference between Toyota, Honda and Ford. Both accord 2007 and camry 2008 have much better built quality and feel than the 2012 fusion. I will never buy a Ford again. New fusions look nice, but I just don't trust their quality.
It says chirping repair, I am not replacing the chirp I am repairing the problem by replacing the blower motor it is the only permanent repair. When I get a RO (Repair Order) at work for a car does that mean I can only repair the vehicle but not replace anything?