Just recently discovered your channel; thanks for the no-nonsense approach and sharing your knowledge without all the silliness or egos that are so prevalent on other channels! I have to say, I've never seen an early Windsor split though, they seemed to be good for over 1000hp.
Don't know how I missed this, but thanks! Like how you explained why the girdles don't work, the stress distribution makes sense. Knew about the intake torque issue, when would you mill the intake to make up for block/ head milling? So, the best recipe for an 8.2 deck stock block effort would be; early block, water pump fill with hard blok, main studs, forged internal balance crank, motor plates, good rods and pistons. Toss away the girdle idea, and have fun! Oh, and a decent oil pan and scraper, too.
Thanks Ben! Another straight forward no nonsense video on the stock block. I have been a Ford fan since the 70's and I have been reading books, and then blogs and now videos and haven't com across a better review of this subject.
This has already been done by David Vizard, Lykins Motorsport, etc.. proper machining of the stock blocks is critical but absolutely achievable and enables these blocks to live at 1,000+ horsepower for as long as you want, even using the factory firing order. Of course you pointed out a very important common sense point and that’s common sense Operations by the driver.
Hardened Studs from the hardware store are good for 1000 hp (not all thread material ) ! I said many years ago blocks crack from twisted as do other blocks from not enough bearing seizures clearance loss of oil.
@@benalamedaracing2765 you are talking about intake manifold mounting and main caps angles cap walk. Harden studs from hardware store are more capable than any grade 8 bolt because of load values. Stud do not twist if installed properly Studs have 2 points of load values bolts have 3 points head of bolt under cap twist from torque from tightening. You can minimize twist if with using lubricant. Studs face of nut and stretch no twisted material as stud is stationary and stretching . There’s stretch charts out there which is more accurate and then torque values. No way of measuring twist! Like you said in another video (tapping with hammer ) check for loose fasteners that relaxes fasteners and twist /stretch and friction. . Never reuse torque to yield fasteners! Thanks Ben 🔧⚙️📚
A while back I suggested stiffening with a main cap girdle also attached to the oil pan lip of the block. I found an example. Similar to a Hayabusa V8, adapted to the mains bearing caps as well as the oil pan deck. The Cleveland may be more adaptable than the Windsor. Have you ever seen anything like this? Did it work?
Thankyou mr alameda for sharing your experience.as i live in Australia and I love me 6 cylinder ford over here especially ford intec 244 ci 4litre 6.Can't wait for next vid your very knowledgeable and experienced builder thankyou. Peace
I had a Morris Minor gasser with a 5.0 block. It broke the rear main cap. It was still running, but vibrating. I replaced the rear cap and had the block line bored. Still running in my buddies mustang.
If it was vibrating did you have the right balance flywheel or dampener? I seldom seen a rear main crack and attribute that to maybe the wrong flywheel weight factor.
Does the block cement trick work on road race cars as well? Most events I do last a minimum of 20 minutes, usually longer. Great content and happy that I subscribed.
Brilliant information, and all in one video! I particularly like the debunking of the valley girdle they've been selling recently. Your intake pan makes so much more sense! I've been around Fords for a long time and this is the first time I have seen the intake valley setup. I subscribed!
Cool, thanks for your support! I you anchored the valley plate that would do a real good job as well as stud mounting the manifold and if it is snugged fit the better to hold both sides with the help of the valley plate.
Stock block holds way more horsepower than Ford Engineers ever needed in a passenger vehicle. Racing is a different story, so you take what you can get...or spend big money on aftermarket.
And how do you feel about taking as much weight out of the rotating mass to add longevity to the block? Such as light rods, knife edging the crank etc.?
It can reliably take 450-500rwhp as long as you do not pre-ignite or detonate your engine! I get close to 570-580 on gasoline and 630-640 on E85 reliably. YOu got to be on point with your ignition and fuel and all will be good.
You can do it successfully with block cement on the bottom half of the freeze plugs and that should have enough added strength there to shore up the bottom end of the block. I would not do it with basically a street car because there really is no need for it. But if it is a weekend warrior why not and it would not affect the cooling big time.
Ben hello, really enjoy your videos; especially the SBF content. I'm building a 306 for a road race/track day car, not going in a Ford chassis. Cam and heads are spec'd to run to 7300-7500 RPM, all forged and internally balanced rotating assembly. I did decide to use a main cap girdle as DV recommended its usage. Would you recommend doing the partial block filling in my situation? And would be great to see how you attach the lifter valley pan. Thanks
Partial block filling would definitely help more than if you did not help support that bottom part of the block so it is worth the effort! I will try to do a video of the valley pan installation soon and I used high grade allen studs with hardened washers and nuts! I need it to really grab the ends and give a lot of support there where it is needed. Total of 6, 3 in front and 3 out back.
Hey Ben do you think if i fill grout fill a world pruducts man owar 351w sbf block after bores a finished, would the bores ho out of round? 1/4 mile TT on methonal
First I thank you for sharing your knowledge, I'm building a 347 for my daily 93 mustang when should I add block cement? Before machining bores? Before the hot tank? I d like 450 up and keep block in one piece. Your videos help so much,thanks again
Sorry for the late reply I get so many messages! Cement the block with half way to the bottom freeze plug or slightly below it! It will shore up the bottom of the blofck so you can make more power1
Hello Ben. Another excellent video. I would also like to see how you attach the valley pan. Studs or bolts for the main caps and bolts or studs for intake manifold? A break down on stroker builds would be amazing for me personally. Once again amazing knowledge and explanation. Keep up the good work sir.
Brandon, I did an article on Fb on my BAR page detailing the differences between a stroker 302 vs 351. It has been shared over 400x not even counting those that printed it and filed it for keeps. I will do a video as you suggested and should be good info for all builders. Thanks!
Hi Ben, I hear the sbf blocks can't be bored far. I bought a 1975 351w block for a stroker. It is bored 0.030 over though. Will I be ok to bore it 0.060? Or should I find a new block? Thnx, Clayton
I love valley pan thought. When I have my intake made? I'm gonna remember this. On the cement? Go to Dollar General and buy a cheap vibrating massager and duck tape a long screw driver to it and stick in the water jacket holes. Zero air bubbles when done well. The issue of cement for me? The main saddles are too thin and that's most of the problem. I have do some Sonic testing and send it to you. I have a 1969/1970 C9OE/D0OE 351 Windsor that's bare already. Please do a video on oil control.
Agree the main saddles needed more support but note that your C9 block has more meat around the oil pan rails compared to the D castings. Cementing will add rigidity on these areas so it is worthwhile to do this specially I have done several C9 castings and it readily took the 4 bolt mains compared to the later blocks, which does not have a completely flat surface to mount the outer bolts for the main caps.
Why oblong the intake holes when the right way is to have the intake cut. ? Then the ports line up better and it's not that much. I used to get them done for 35 bucks. It's been awhile so say 70 now. Still much better off. And you wont have an intake sealing problem either.
If we all milled the intake that intake will be married to that cylinder heads! What if you ended up changing heads and now your intake is off alignment and that is the problem. Milling is good as long as you keep them paired and I had years ago a max milled 69 casting and the manifold will not fit after i switched to an aftermarket cylinder heads. When I oblong it now it will fit regardless of cylinder heads and most intakes today are casted with smaller ports so you can match them up to whatever head you plan on using.
Well you make a lot of sense. I would have to agree. The only retort I have is that I'm building that engine to work together I'm not looking down the road for a home for an intake I'm using now with the parts it's msted to. But you oblonging the holes makes more sense. Other than to have to rematch port .
Use the Holden 304/308ci Engine firing order, 12784563 and a crank girdle. No.1 will be your passenger side as the Holden Engine is Right hand drive and no.1 is on our drivers side, which is your passenger side. Also I bet most of the block splitting problems happens on violent clutch drop manual trans cars and not as often if at all on an automatic.
You are correct and the same loads are experience by the block on automatics with trans brake launches which is a more violent hit specially when boosted of nitrous.
Would adding a valley girdle, a girdle in the bottom and half filling the block help. Along with solid mounts. And what's your thoughts on a 4 bolt main conversion kit
Every little bit helps and the cheapest block to convert is the only 1 made in 69 which is the C9 block castings. All else does not apply too well on the outer bolts of the caps.
What’s your thoughts on a SVO M-6010-A351 2 bolt main 351w block? I was told it is called a sportsman block. Beefier than a stock production 351w block. I’m looking to possibly build a Clevor with 4v heads or similar. What’s your thoughts on a clevor with max power at 800-900hp on this block? If not that a 351w stroker with AFR 205cc/58 heads. Thoughts? New subscriber here!
Omar, thanks for subscribing and I built several Sportsman blocks up to 850hp with no issues! Just got to open up the main bearing clearance and it has enough nickel on the block to make it much stronger than a normal 351W factory block. If you built a stroker 4.170-4.250 stroke and use the 4V close chamber heads, you basically have a big block incognito for most people and it would blow a lot of unaware people out there! lol If you also opt for an Australian Cleveland head open it up and it would be even better on the mid range power as well as a decent top end. Is it a street car or bracket racer?
@@benalamedaracing2765 thank you for the reply. I really like your videos. Simple to understand. I feel I have enough know how to get by but videos like yours make it much easier to continue to learn. This new unused A351 sportsman block, 2 bolt mains is looking to be a street car engine. No track car at the moment but would like to cover my base by doing it right the first time. Over built for longevity but with plenty of power to shake the neighbors tree. I do have a B-A track boss single plain intake for Cleveland heads. I heard 2v closed chamber heads are better for low-mid RPM power VS. the 4v heads for higher RPM power. What’s a better build; AFR headed stroker or Clevor? What would Ben do?
I have another question reguarding compression so from what I see my compression is 11.1 on a budget build 408 with 62cc aluminum heads my question how streetable is it actually can these cars run on 34 degrees and obtain power on pump gas? Or is it better to drop the compression to say 10.5 and use the timing as an advantage as we all know fords love timing
Street car mustang convertible 99 gt with 410 gears trenec 5 speed tkx full car no body mods car is in the heavy side cause it’s basically a street car I’m using an Accel gen 7 dfi to control the ve timing tables
If I understand the compression 11.1 to a turbo 9.0 compression I’m realizing that the high compression is always at the beginning and timing needs to retard as if though I’m boosting the lo compression at high rpm if this makes sense
