This very video was exactly right! It took me less than 10 minutes to look under, see that the mounting screws were loose, get the tools, tighten the 2 screws up, and drive the truck. Shifter problem completely solved! Thank you so much! I’m a new subscriber for sure!
Check to see if one of the bolts doesn’t have anything to bolt into. Mine broke 2yrs ago almost to the date, the part where the torx screws into the column broke. Had nothing to screw into. I now have the same exact problem again. No R or Park. Everything else is fine, bushings etc.
A+, thank-you for posting. You covered all the issues for slop in the shifter on these vehicles. If you want to pick these up at your local auto parts store the info is: Dorman Transmission Shift Rod Bushing 905-107. Price is around $6.99 for the pair. These bushings made a huge difference for my Ranger. I would suggest using some sort of plastic compatible grease on the inside of the bushing.
Great video, explaining this problem. This is a massive issue on these many older Ford’s that use this shifter system. Ford used this system was used for years in anything from the Taurus to the Crown Victoria, Windstar & Ranger. I honestly almost think it should’ve been a possible recall, same with the shift indicator issue too.
Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom. This is exactly what was wrong with my husband's truck. Tightened those 2 screws and it shifted properly. God bless you. 🙌🏽🙏🏽🙋🏽♀️🙋♂️
A couple weeks ago this got the neighbor beside the shop, thought the truck was in park but was in reverse…I heard him yelling for help and found the truck on top of his legs.
@@koolkat8639 he’s not ok, alive but not ok. I haven’t heard anything back yet but it had to have broken his right leg, possibly his left, I don’t know what would be left of his right knee because the tire went over it and bent it backwards.
Part numbers: Gear Shifter Assembly: 5C3Z-7210-AAA Shift Tube: F57Z-7212-A Shift tube bushing: F3TZ-7L278-A Shifter lever pin: F0DZ-7G357-A The pin in the video looks like the Doorman one (924-440) Bolts for the clamps: N806584-S437
Thanks for posting this info. I found a pin on the floorboard and didn’t know where it came from. I identified it as the shifter lever pin with your info.
This is the most in depth analysis I've seen on the floppy shifter problem. The old F250 7.3 I just bought has the flop but the torx bolts are tight, after seeing this I suspect it's worn bushings on the tube causing it.
Thanks, Bulldog! My shifter was sloppy and then eventually broke, no shifting! A little research made me think it MAY be the cable. But, hands-on research showed me the cable is fine! The issue on my 98' Ford E-350 is where the end of the shift rod transitions to a plate. There is a very specialized piece that fits in there. Initially, a friend was helping, and he bent a 1/4x20 bolt and stuck it in there, DEFINITELY TEMPORARY, as after a couple of weeks the bolt was laying on the floor Fortunately, I was able to get under the van, shift the van and get back home. So now... I am going to make the permanent repair. Or... as permanent as possible with what is obviously a design flaw. I have an awful lot of brackets underneath my column. I find it hard to believe all of those brackets are stock. When my catalytic converter was stolen, I was then told that my van was a special make and the cat was not available. Anyway, I have got to drop my entire column to get in there. AND... I have already removed quite a few brackets to get to the point where I can kinda see the transition plate. Well, I gotta get in there, so I am gonna find another video that shows how to drop that column. I HIGHLY DOUBT, any video will show all of the steel brackets that I am seeing. Oh, if you're not too busy, can you make the repairs to my shift rod and transition plate? We can make another video, and I will handle the camera! Thanks again, brother! Best to you!
When I dropped the column to repair my shifter tube, when I re-raised the column back in place and tightened it the steering wheel sticks. What did I do wrong?
I changed my shift tube it’s my first time doing it to and I’m a bigger guy so getting them two bolts were a hassle cuz I couldn’t fit up under , but I replaced it and somehow I can only get netrual and. Drive it’s like somthing it else is bro or I missed or done somthing wrong
Can you help? When i park, i have to leave it in Neutral and E-break. Because i can't get it out of Park. Did the dial adjustment, that just moves the needle. Had to drop the dashboard to get to the heater core a month ago. Did something get bent i can't see?
The handle is available and often is replaced due to a bad overdrive switch, the receiver tube is available as it often breaks when the shifter gets sloppy enough that the interlock won’t disengage and people yank on the handle, the pin is fairly cheap and available as well so might as well replace it too.
Anyone know what the thread size is on the bolts. Found the head of one laying in the floor board tonight after seeing this video after an 20 mins of messing with it why I could barely get it to shift between R N D
Then I'll just loosen those 2 bolts and put some lock glue or something on the threads then tighten them on so they'll stay tight longer I dont really see a good point in replacing those plastic bushings when new ones will break because its plastic I'd use or make a metal sleeves for it instead of plastic bushings
Hello, my friend in the table not look the P(parking) , I change the module tcm solenoide valve and same problrm , no look in the table "P" , other gears is ok.....help me ....
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 @bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 yes , digital readout, is the 5.0 cc xlt year 2012,,,,.... maybe the cable that comunicator the lever with selector automatic box?? ..... thank for response
@@franknieto6064 The application depicted in the video is a mechanical indicator, yours is digital. It could be a cable adjustment problem but if that was the case the engine probably wouldn’t start. If the “P” never shows up then it could be a problem with the readout itself, or with the wiring at the transmission. You stated you changed a solenoid? If the problem occurred after that then I would assume it’s not plugged in correctly, the larger round plug on your application can be a bit tricky
But then if its just loose I'll only use the glue and do it that way But im set on to do the leaking gas line its got a leak from the gas line end to were it connects to the gas filter Its got a bad gas line end connector from the engine to the gas filter under the driver side door so that shouldn't be to hard to fix its not a screw on type of gas line like how on Chevy it is im not much use to working on fords but i have to
Scroll down, someone in the comments listed all the part numbers, I don’t normally deal with ordering or billing at the shop and as far as the bolts we’ve always found them in the hush panel or floorboard.
I just tightened these two screws as they were very loose. Now after tightening them i cant shift anymore and the transmission would not move out of P? what did i do wrong 😂
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 my 98 F-150 did not have a clip. The pin was knerled on one end. After checking the pin for wear, which it had a lot, I decided to order a new pin. I'm assuming that the pin will wear more than the shifter.
Ohhhhooohhhooo is because its made in Mexico???????? No my frien is because is designed by usa igeniers .what is made in mx is made right dont make foolish others of your people's fault
Factory parts do not have a tag on them like that, if they do then you know they’ve been replaced at some point and even dealer parts will sometimes have a country of origin tag.
