In this video, the second part of how I make an Auger: Creating the cutting face and lead-screw as well as heat treating the finished tool. Enjoy this video? Support me on Patreon at / rowantaylorblacksmith
I actually prefer the videos where people show their learning and their mistakes, it teaches more than certain steel(e) youtubers who are just showmen and never make a mistake (no so of course they just don't show them.) you can't learn anything from them.
As someone commented in 1st video, I’m amazed your heat stays as long as it does with the small areas to work. You are good tool maker. Way harder than you make it look. Thank you
Wow. I don't think I've ever been more amazed by another artisan video before. I would have never thought hand forging a lead screw would be possible and more beautiful. I love all of your videos, but this is just stunning. Amazing work. You're truely an artist.
Those little skirts on the edges of the cutting edge are to keep the hole smooth on the sides. Without them, the auger would tear the fibers along the hole, and you'd have pretty rough holes. So when sharpening an auger, always touch up those little skirts too.
Aren't the ears supposed to point in the same direction as the lead screw, though? On my "modern" bit-and-brace (well, "modern" compared to a hand-forged auger, even if I did inherit them from my grandfather) the ears cut the sides of the hold first, then the main screw of the bit digs out the wood between the cuts made by the ears.
I think you should make more vids as your care in the community job. But other than that I think the auger could have more of a twist on it to keep the angle from needing upsetting. Great job Mr Rowan.
Great video, really enjoing your presentation. Also had a little chuckle there when you said "I´m trying to use handtools only for this" and started using an angle grinder in the next shot.
Bummer about the first piece but i am happy to see you finished the project for our enjoyment. great stuff M8. I enjoy seeing a lot of smithing videos but honestly for precision and level of difficulty this is amazing. i must like you facebook page
This video gave me enough confidence to try it. I succeeded quite well. I managed to drill a shallow hole in hardwood with the unhardened tool. However the tip of the lead screw broke off the first time I tried it after hardening and tempering. I used the same method as you did with (not properly annealed) 1075 cutting faces. I couldn't see the tempering colors on the lead screw, only on the cutting faces. Seems like the tempering heat didn't get to the tip. The tip may also have gotten a bit too hot before quenching. Maybe it's a good idea to temper the leadscrew more than the cutting faces...
Very interesting video. I do believe the threaded tip is called the snail. Some of my better augers have a dual pitched snail which is a steep lead but double the thread for good gripping lead. Thanks for your videos.
Absolutely incredible! Great video! So helpful ive never seen anything like this so thank you so much! Really eye opening at the simplicity of these tools amazing!
Rowen another awesome video.was wondering if something happened when no video showed up last week I'm glad everythings ok and the auger worked out fine
Rowan, Are you familiar with the use of a chunk of plate with a hole in it to create a flue (over the coal)for localized heating? I've heard of it, but never actually met anyone familiar with the process. Thought about it when you heated the end of the auger to hammer out the lead screw. Thanks again for you hard work both at the anvil and behind the camera/laptop etc! AAR
I have used wood to localise heat, ie make a blow torch, which works very well. Plate tends to soak the heat away in my experience where wood insulates the forge and concentrates the effect
@TalRohan Interesting. I'll have to give that a try. I still use a piece of plate regularly to localize the heat for tempering and occasionally an oxy-acetylene torch when the project is being finicky!
@@albertrasch4793 have you seen df in the shop, he uses a cast iron frying pan with either sand or metal shavings for tempering ...in particular a spring which are a pain in the butt to get right. I use a pan occasionally for tempering but most things I make are too big for ovens or pans .
Not rowan, but I've seen natural gas and propane, the latter much more common. They can be incredibly efficient. They can be cheaper and easier to run than a coal forge, but they usually don't achieve as high of heat as coal would.
Augers with lead-screws are comparatively pretty recent. I was under the impression that they were generally not twisted at all, but instead made entirely with a triangle file. Before the lead-screw, you would have to start off the auger by chiseling into the wood. Quite a pain, if ya ask me!
just the lead screw? Hahaha, no, it only takes about 10 minutes. I kid you not, before the lathe and the tap, that's how screws were all made. (that's why woodworkers used to do all that crazy dovetail stuff and other complicated joinery: wood screws weren't exactly cheap!)
+verdatum I know I've seen pintels for hinges that were twisted, so it makes sense that a wood screw could be made the same way. I think most of the lead screws were probably twisted too, and then finished with a file.
I have never been convinced that the lead screw does anything helpful. They are never big enough to actually pull the auger into the wood and just tear the wood where they go in. A simple spike would be as good.
I disagree, a huge advantage of the threads is that it controls very accurately the depth per full rotation. So on my augers a full turn goes 1/16th of an inch. I count as I'm boring the hole to get the same depth. The force one would have to apply for a spike would render an auger useless.
In eight years, it still hasn't reached fifty thousand viewers. Do you know why, since you could buy the same thing for twenty dollars, you wouldn't occupy the whole shop for a week?