Tackling how we're going to handle to PCV system with our boosted FOX! Link to breather catch can I used: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07... Link to parts list: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/...
Looks great Mike. I would probably do a baffle plate over the AN fittings in the valve covers. I once installed afternarket mopar valvecovers on my dad's 98 ram 5.9L and the damn thing sucked all the oil out of the pcv back into the intake manifold and I ended up burning up some valve seals when I noticed the engine running funny looked down saw no oil pressure on the gauge. My lesson was learned then to run a baffle on the underside of the valve covers.
Well, there is a baffle on the tank, but no suction anywhere since PCV is gone. So, zero ties to the intake. This is only a breather, with an oil seperator in case oil makes its way down the hoses, to the tank.
You definitely need a baffle or oil will get by y'all have oil push through the lines and y'all always be emptying your catch can you could have kept your factory pcv system and just ran a check valve watch pro m computer ecm install video on RU-vid and they show you the part number for the check valve they say to definitely run a pcv valve but what your doing will work but oil will be in that can I promise!
I don’t have egr either, not sure of your exact setup but they make an egr delete plug that plugs into your factory harness that makes the computer think the egr is functional. I just have breathers on valve covers, brodix makes a stand that has steps inside so no oil everywhere, just weld it onto valve covers, but takes a long time to put oil in due to the steps.
Heck yeah. That would work too. My last setup had an EGR block plate. In this case I needed to intentionally move the throttle body back so it killed two birds with one stone.
No, I had to use this...www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005AZHJO0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Took about 3 different ones to try it, this one is 3.25" for my 75mm throttle body, and 3" on the other side, really long leg length you can cut down to fit.
Do you happen to have the part number for the plug you used on the back of the lower intake where the PCV valve was? Just went to autozone and they were clueless. Wondering if this is the correct part number Dorman 570-009
Hey buddy I got a 95 Mustang that I just recently turboed and I am trying to figure out the best setup for my PCV you used a rubber type freeze out plug to block off PCV what size did you use
No. There is an episode here that videos me buying a 89 with this motor in it. I bought the car for the motor and parted the rest out and essentially the motor was free. The flattops really pose issue with aftermarket heads and larger cams. I know that 86 motor needed rebuilt anyway, and this trick flow motor NA was a fresh build. That motor pre-turbo was a ton of fun.
I've been running this setup for awhile and tired of the smell from vented catch can and boosting it . I was thinking about running a turbo coupe pcv and running that valve to a oil separator then back to back of intake manifold. Wondering how well that would work combined with the vented catch can connected to both valve covers.
Beware the Turbo Coupe PCV valve. It flows much less than a regular V8 PCV valve because it's made for a 4-cylinder engine (much less volume even though it's turboed). I recently saw a test between them and the V8 valve allowed 2-3x more air to pass through. I've seen Neomustangs vent both valve covers AND the PCV location behind intake on his turbo motors.
hey Mike a couple of comments.. put a 1 way check valve in line so you don't suck oil back into the motor. You can also get a 90 degree male/female AN fitting for the passenger side so it sits lower. You can also install the AN fittings on the face of the valve cover that is towards the inside of the the intake by the top - that way it wont have any clearance issue. They also make these nice hose clamps for the braided lines.. www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-braided-hose-clamps.html
Thanks man! Those are trick. I has one on my Torino's fuel lines in the trunk. Really, I should have had it welded in and I wouldnt have to worry about the placement at all. The PCV has no suction, its purely breather only. Any oil going back into the valve covers should just drain back to the pan.
Room and complexity putting a fitting there, and T-ing or tieing it into the valve cover vents. But you could do it this way as well, if open to the black same as valve covers.
Fine. Left it like is, no issues. You do smell it though under boost though since its on the driver side it just rolls in, but not bad enough to re-route it move it.
Sure. That would work too if you have the room. In hind sight, I should have had the bung welded then you can have it anywhere you want! I'd get the bungs flush welded towards the front on both valve covers.
Can you help me out, please? I just installed a turbo on my 2ZR-FE Swapped Yaris. I installed a catch can on the PCV side: PCV out to inlet of sealed/baffled catch can and outlet to intake manifold. Since my charge pipe doesn't have an inlet for the breather, I was advised to put a breather on the valve cover. The car runs great, but fuel trims are very high. The only place that air is entering is the valve cover. You spoke about unmetered air. My vacuum is strong ~25in/hg. Do you think my lean condition and high positive fuel trims are related to the changes from stock, my pcv/breather set up? Or, is it likely to be my MAF trying to deal with different/more airflow. I haven't hooked up my engine management yet or upgraded fuel injectors and I'm staying out of boost.These high trims are occuring from idle and up to about 3K rpm - still breaking the turbo in. I'm seeing ~ +18 STFT and +29 LTFT at idle, but STFT drops to ~ +6 at about 3000rpm. The guy that's going to tune my car seems to really know his stuff and suggests getting rid of my sealed can, blocking off the PCV and PCV inlet to the manifold and installing a vented type catch can on the breather side only. I worry about this as I like the idea of vacuum clearing my crank case. Thanks in advance!
A true PCV when under vacuum the valve opens and ingests gasses into the intake, since its sucking OUT of the crankcase its needs a breaker to suck fresh outside air IN. This replaces the contaminated gases with fresh air in the crankcase. On my mustang when it was NA, this fresh air was drawn in after the MAF sensor but before the throttle blade (no vacuume area) from a tube from a tube in the throttle body going to the valve covers. Ford did this because the air was filtered here and not under vacuum. With a turbo the charge pipe is under boost, so this wouldnt work. You get use check valves etc ( all check valved CLOSED under boost) but there is no simple way to pull in gases / fresh air at the same time without compromising opening a spot for boost to leak in....easiest way is to use a PCV (rated for boost) with a breather on the valve covers, this fixes the way to suck in gasses under vacuum and draw in fresh air but now under boost gases and oil will blow out of the breather. OR the simplest route...like I did, Install a remote breather/catch can. plugged the PCV hole in manifold, doing away with PCV all together. This is simply a way to control blow by, but the catch can has to also have a breather to allow gasses to escape....I might be painting the wrong picture but in your case but it sounds like you have a closed system, manifold (vacuum source) to sealed can, then sealed can out to PCV valve. This wont work without a fresh air inlet. either a breather or remote breather off the valve cover would fix this but then you have to know that under boost gases and oily droplets will come out of that breather for a baffle. If you have to use vacuum / pcv system you need a place for fresh air to replace those gases and use a boost quality PCV vallveBest to do that, or dont overthink it lol, blow by just happens with boosted engines....I'll be changing my oil before it ever can get contaminated anyway. As far as your short and long term fuel trim? Your PCV system wouldnt be causing that unless you had a different vacuum leak somewhere, pull your PCV and just plug it to see if your STFT goes down a little. Its highly likely you just need a tune man, I wouldnt sweat it. Good luck! lemme know if this helps.
@@HOUSEOFDULA Thanks very much for the response! If I'm understanding you correctly, having my valve cover vented to atmosphere shouldn't be a vacuum leak that affects fuel trims? It's not letting in unmetered air? I have a leak somewhere else? I like the idea of having PCV to evacuate all the gasses out but the guy who will be tuning my car says what you did about blocking off the PCV system altogether and using a vented can on the breather side. I will try your suggestion - block off the PCV. I have sealed can inline with my PCV, but could I just put the filter (that is currently on my valve cover) on the outlet of the catch can and connect the breather tube from the valve cover to the inlet of the catch can. Or, do I need a whole new catch can with a filter on it?
Man if I misunderstood I apologize. If you have a breather currently on your valve cover your good as long as your PCV valve is correctly and meant for boost. Your catch can will only "catch" oil on suction in vacuum when PCV opens. And no venting the valve covers will not cause a vacuum leak as its not tied to manifold vacuum. Hell you can also vent the PCV port to atmosphere. Same difference. You could also block the valve cover, seal it, and put the breather on the PCV outlet..so yes, man sounds like your good to go and still your leaning out is more likely tune.
How is the smell in the driver seat? Any oil spray? I really want to vent the covers, plug pcv and do it just like this, but my dad keeps saying I'll hate it and that I should use the complex sealed can with check valves and multiple lines and so on, his reasoning being the smell mostly. Im not sure what to do. I want the simplicity but I don't want to gas myself or passengers out inside the car
Glad you brought this up. Its noticable. Not horrible, but enough that I want to move it or vent it inside the fender. If I did this over Id run the tank in the fender well. This is a simpler approach. Your dad is right lol, but for me cost wise and complexity I chose to deal with it. I think just venting it in the inner fender well may help, but gasses are still being exposed forward the driver. Zero oil spray though. It stays clean.
Picked up the plug from a local Oreilly's auto parts. Its a dorman HELP expansion plug. I truely dont recall the size I bought two, and used the one I could make fit. Like this: www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/dorman-help--4422/engine-parts---mounts-16774/gaskets-16473/engine-intermediate-shaft-seal-13378/4eeb5c4df352/dorman-help-expansion-plug/02602/4526792?q=plug+universal&pos=2 The valve cover fittings I also purchased at a local race shop smileys. Its a 90 degreemale / female -10AN fitting. Not this one, but just like it www.amazon.com/ESPEEDER-Aluminum-Anodize-Bulkhead-Fitting/dp/B0752LBRVV/ref=asc_df_B0752LBRVV/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312455765168&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13487671068088341040&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027248&hvtargid=pla-569387228622&psc=1 These screw on to - male -10 AN bulkhead fittings. These are the ones I used, www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-16894/overview/
I'm sorry but I'm no super observant and i missed you installing the radiator over flow. I looked back through the videos and couldn't find the install, who is the manufacturer?
@@HOUSEOFDULA have you thought about running a vent line to the intake somewhere instead of a filter on the catch can? Or would that increase crankcase pressure?
@@matthewtully1745 So as long as the vent is pre turbo it wont be boosted and increase crankcase pressure. These is suction here and would work, but I didnt want to suck oil in the turbo and I dont really have an intake tube, just run a filter or screen on the turbo. But, this WOULD work as a PCV system.
Yes, however my EGR was already deleted. This was just getting rid of the block. My microsquirt wont need it, but I was with the EGR deleted with current pre-turbo motor for a year. Some might say its not proper lol, there are different ways of doing this, I chose the less complex way to remove the PCV, the easiest way is just block the PCV in the back and put on a breather, but I didnt want oil spray on my motor. There are ways to run a PCV with a turbo, but its overly complex and IMO just not worth it.
