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Always posting helpful material. You da man. I think it would be cool to see a video of you driving broke & boosted like you did with your faster Miata. Thumbs up man
@thecarpassionchannel hey if you vape or smoke you can blow the smoke through the intake to find boost/vacuum leaks kinda like your method but with smoke
Mr. Bubble is a great soap to use to find air leaks. It’s king of molecular sticky and holds a bubble well. I used to work in a science lab and we had to chase down gas line leaks frequently. Fyi
Also, looking forward to broke and handling, with tricks you've shared in private, like the NB sway bar swap, and why you keep the stock one in back, etc, etc :-p
hi greg good vidio as allways thankyou for your opload.. ,, i am a bit confused abaut ignitionmap i have read so muths abaut it and there are so many opinions abaut it i have a vw vento/jetta 1,8 i have turboet..12 psi and 6500 rmp max are trying to setup a good ignition map are there some good rules to when it goes in boost,, i wood like to see how your ignition map and simular setups look
can you please post more videos on your miatas and turbo information, like the engines and reliability and if its worth it to buy one. also could you provide information on what you should pay for a miata or one already turbod.please let me know if you read this I appreciate it.
this method is the best method for vacuum leaks as well but instead you connect the tester to throttle body and open the throttle and suck on the hose/blow in it..if you have a leak and cant find it blow cigarette smoke into the system
Get a portable air tank, go to a tire pump at a gas station..fill it up, go back to house..do your boost leak test. Cheapest reliable way...next step would be a motorized compressor in your garage which is the proper way to do it. I never considered just blowing into one of the hoses. That's an interesting trick! it'd work with big leaks, but small leaks you'd still need something which could push more pressure through the pipe.
Agreed although those small air tanks run out really fast :/ I actually have a compressor but I'm in the middle of changing the head gasket on it!! Haha
TheCarPassionChannel that's true, they do run out fast but if you don't have room for an air compressor (like an apartment) they are the next best thing. I recently found your channel and think you're doing a great job! Keep it up! I wish I had a resource like your channel when I was first getting into cars. I've watched quite a few of your videos and you're giving some quality advice. Cheers!
So my Miata has been acting up. Sometimes I have vacuum and other times I don't. It seems like once my car warms up I'll have vacuum but then there are times I can drive for a half hour and have no vacuum. Any idea what could cause this?
ive always blown into my tester but today i found a leak at injector o ring that only leaks once psi is added so i now add the same psi my wastegates set at so i dont miss any. what made me change methods to find this is yesterday my afr under wot was mid 11s,today ists 10.0 so it was screaming in my mind boost leak but i couldnt find it till i added psi
@TheCarPassionChannel: love the how to vids, you should do one on how to replace clutch and flywheel video. There aren't that many quality clutch how tos out there for the Miata
What do you do when valves are changing (when both intake and exhaust are open at same time) more likely with 6-8-12 cylinder cars, and with 6 or more cylinder cars there is an open intake valve in every position of the engine so you are doing a leakdown test at the same time what can lead for missreadings, and also by pressurising the cylinder can lead to crank movement with a lose timing chain or belt can damage the engine. Great channel by the way and preciate your work.
Logan880121 I see what you mean about the valve overlap. If any of the valves are overlapping (like at the end of the exhaust stroke) the air you use to try and pressurize the intake would go right out of the exhaust pipe. Maybe not enough to matter much with regulated shop air, but it would wear your lungs out! You could get past this by removing the intake tube at the throttle body and block it off like he did at the turbo. This would more efficiently test the system up to (but not including) the intake manifold. If you suspected a manifold leak, you could smoke test it, or watch the air/fuel sensor while spraying carb cleaner (or propane) around the intake itself.
I’m placing my boost leak tester on the mount of my turbo. Do I have to block off the passage way before the throttle body so the air doesn’t escape into the engine ?
Hi Greg. I am planning to buy an na Miata soon and I'm going to check out a few cars on Tuesday but they are salvaged. Should I trust them? One had no idea why which scares me and the other THINKS it was the front end. What are your tips and how much should I offer both have roll bars but the rest of the car is stock
I want to build a Miata but I need to know roughly how much I need to invest into it before I start , how much would you say I would have to have to get it close to yours ?
Shouldn't you cap off the intake manifold pipe as well? I would think a valve would be open in the head allowing pressure to escape past the throttle body. IACV may also be bypassing air.
IACV goes from the intercooler/intake pipe into the manifold, so there's nowhere for air to escape. Also, it won't matter if the intake valves are open, as long as the intake AND exhaust valves aren't both open on the same cylinder (overlap). Since overlap is only 20 degrees on the B6 it's rare that the engine would shut off in that position, but if it did you could give it a quick crank to budge it.
I see, so as long as you are not somewhere in that 20 degree arc then atleast one side of the head should be sealed. I can see how this would also take the IACV out of the equation as well. Good info, thanks.
The turbo will ONLY over stress to get to a desired boost level ONLY if your wastegate is fed from the intake manifold and you have an IC leak or manifold leak ... If your turbo is fed from the compressor, it will NEVER EVER stress to get to your desired boost level. Don't your intake valves need to be CLOSED for this test to work..?? Otherwise that air will escape thru the intake valves and exhaust valves and out the turbine and out the exhaust pipe .. remember your throttle body plate is NOT 100% closed EVER ... So air will pass thru there and thru the open valves And FYI you can still pull vacuum from the intercooler and IC piping, even at the compressor outlet .. Pull that IC pipe OFF the compressor outlet and you WILL feel vacuum pull so technically any leak after that compressor outlet is a vacuum leak, its just a vacuum leak under vacuum and a BOOST leak when it converts to boost ...
What is a good ignition time setting for a turbo 1.8l miata using the CAS? Stock ecu, stock engine internals. Hoping for 170-200whp maybe with the 1.8l engine
There one thing that I keep thinking about when performing boost leak, should the pressure really stay? isn't there a big chance that an intake valve is open in one of the cylinders/ piston rings wont entirely seal the air/ are the valves supposed to seal 100% anyway
The only time you'll have an issue is if one of your cylinders is in overlap intake and exhaust valves are both slightly open. Then you just need to turn the crankshaft a few degrees. you will probably always have a couple intake valves open but the rings will feel well enough to be able to do a boost leak test
i was actually getting leaks caused by those tee bolt hose clamps they tend to pinch and leave a small spot to leak,i fixed this by simply going to cheap clamps and cranking them down.
I do a lot of stuff that people could learn from like you do but I don't have the patience or the gear to video it. how in the world do you manage to get stuff done and video at the same time lol
The filming and editing is more work and more time consuming than doing the job itself, I think a lot of people don't know how much work it actually is haha. Especially on videos like the rack depower and coolant reroute video omg, takes days to film those
Minute 5, blanket statement warning: on cars that use a MAF or VAM, leaks there will hurt performance. it throws off your fuel metering. Since it looks like yours is a speed density car, you would be correct in your particular case.
Only if the leak is post MAF. And if there was a pinhole leak like the ones I was fixing in this video, you'd never notice. I should have mentioned it though, I always forget the MAF people since I'm speed density.
so can i just run a vacuum line into the cabin and blow in it when I race for an instant 2psi of boost? I could even put a little intercooler in front of my A/C vent...
the NA Miatas have a "passive" turbo system... super high tech stuff. it uses atmospheric pressure to maintain 14.7 psi even at idle, and no leaky intercooler piping to worry about.
Performance in Mexico...What could be better? 200whp and 2200 pounds? Should be compatible with a new 5.0 mustang...Only B&B will go around corners rather than altering planetary alignment trying to slow down the near 4000 pounds stinky stang for a tight turn! :)
Greg, you made intakehoses sell out of boost leak testers. I wanted to buy one after I saw your video. and they are out of stock now. they need to pay you commissions for mentioning them.
Your comment regarding only having a vacuum leak if it's behind the throttle body is inaccurate. That rule only applies to a MAP based system, if you run MAF it's still a vacuum leak. At least as far as the computer is concerned...
It is a leak, but the intake tract draws almost zero vacuum in an n/a car; the throttle plate is what causes the vacuum in the first place so there can only be vacuum after it.
