Hello! I have one probe into one of the holes and another on the pins like you did. I have continuity on one pin but none on the other one. Is it a bad relay? Thanks!
Hi, I have a Curry refrigerator, Just recently I noticed the light inside the fridge is not as bright as before and I didn't hear any humming sound to signify the engine is running. So I unplugged it for some hours and plugged it back in, the light eas bright and the humming sound started, then after 40 mins the humming sound shut off and there was a click sound, some minutes after I heard another clicking sound and the humming started again but winded down like engine shutting down, this repeater after some minutes, click sound then humming and shut down. What could be the issue? thanks
Is the fridge on it's own dedicated circuit or are other things plugged in with it? Something is causing a loss in power and either it is something on the same line or something is faulty in the fridge itself.
I try to be. It’s easy to think people on YT are professionals but many of us are learning and make mistakes. Many just post the good stuff. It’s okay to make mistakes; mistakes are the best teacher.
Sounds like a compressor issue but start with the easy/free fixes. Are the coils cleaned? Any electrical shorts with the compressor? How does the capacitor look? If everything else is looking good my guess is it's low on freon. Unfortunately very costly and a super easy DIY.
Mine same issue. Refrigerator is only 1.5 yrs old. Luckily frigidare allowed me to purchase the 5 yr extended warranty. I just have to wait the grace period. I did everything on this video. And I still had the same problem. The last step I took was the answer. I used an amp clamp and determined the L.R.A matched that on my compressor name plate
@@EricKgetshepe I figured out how to check the issue. After replacing both the relay and capacitor. I continued having the same issue. The most important set I forgot to check and no body on you tube mentioned. Is the lock motor amperage. Get an amp meter and clamp it around 1 lead on the compressor if it reads over 5 amps for more than a few seconds and then it shuts off. That is the safe relay doing its job. That tells u u have a bad compressor
U can probably replace the starter relay with another starter relay the black and white piece inside the solid white , the rest still works just get a new relay try repairing it that way the piece with the disk is what is good!
I went to Defy supplier to by the relay for my fridge they deny they says to me i must also by compressor i said no i need relay they deny to sell for me
I almost did the same mistake since the original was 80.00 and saw one similar at 30.00! I luckily opted for the original part # & waiting for delivery now
I've had like 3 refrigerator running for some seconds then the click sound.I try replacing the overload and it blows again and again.Could the compressor be the problem?
Could be a myriad of things. How old is your fridge? Could be a control board issue if it’s a newer fridge or it could be an issue with the voltage to the compressor or the electrical at the compressor.
My freezer is Kenmore and it’s 1-1/2 years old and dead. Can’t find any parts for it. Called Sears and Kenmore. What would be the best way to get an overload protector for it?
I would look up the make and model in Google and check appliance parts websites like Repair Clinic, eReplacementParts, etc and see if you can find the part number for the protector. Then put that part number into Google to see your options for purchase. Usually Amazon or eBay can be a great source but those other websites can help you find the correct part number.
Either on the actual part or if you look at the owner's manual (in print or google it online). If that still doesn't work, use an appliance part website like PartSelect or any other like it and you'll find the part number by looking up your model fridge/freezer.
Thank so much for this video. Please May I ask: Thank you so much for your response. The thing is, I want to buy a table top freezer, I saw two brands that I love which are the same sizes of freezers, but one of the freezers has a smaller compressor. Shd I buy the one with the bigger compressor or the one with the smaller compressor? Is the one with the bigger compressor more powerful than the one with the smaller compressor? Remember that the freezers are the same sizes table top freezer
Good question, if the sizes (aka the volume) are the same, then I’d probably go with the bigger compressor since it might be more efficient. If it were me, I’d look at online reviews and/or RU-vid videos to hear how other consumers report on the freezer. More data are always better!
Did you repair the issue? I have the same problem . And bought a 50 relay . It worked for a bit and compressor gets super hot and the overload clicks off
Like I mentioned at the video, it didn't end up fixing the fridge because I didn't get the right part. They no longer supply this right part so I ended up just getting rid of the unit. I should have checked first before wasting the money!
I used an amp clamp and determined the L.R.A matched that on the name plate of the compressor. When I first plug the refrigerator in the wall socket. It fires right up. But when it cycles. That's where the problem begins. The amp draw is 6.9 even after replacing the relay and cap.
