I just used this excellent video to repair my Kenmore/Frigidaire washer. Very thorough, and easy to follow. During the repair, I found a broken shock absorber, so I replaced both. This repair is very doable by a DIY person. In my case, I replaced the tub bearings, rather than installing a new rear drum. Thanks for making this information available.
Hello. Any update on how your new bearings are hanging in? I'm having a hard time selecting a quality bearing and seal set. They range from 25.00 to over 200.00. Do you know which set you used?
@@JohnnyRawks I used XiKe brand the first time and they lasted three years. However, it was still loud when the bearings were new so I'm thinking they're not the best to begin with (made in China). I'm searching "washing machine bearing kit 131525500" with my drum replacement part number 131525500 and lots of options show up. Which ones did you decide on, have they lasted? I'm probably going to try it again.
@@kbbpll7338 I found a used machine for sale (150 bucks) that was 5-7 years newer than mine. I took the drum assembly out of it and put it into mine. So far so good. I also kept all the other parts for spares. I took my drum apart and the metal three-spoke mount that attaches the inner drum to the outer shell was severely rotted. It probably would have failed entirely within a few months. At a high speed spin, that would have been quite the event I suspect. I've heard from others that this metal mount is a weak point in the design. I'll probably be re-visiting this in a couple years when this newer drum fails. I love the machine. Just wish that metal mount wasn't prone to rot and failure. Thanks for the info on your bearing. Three years isn't too bad I guess, although, when the original bearing lasted >=20 years, makes you wonder.
Looks like this has been here for a few years, still effective though. My washer has been singing for a year now and this video was a great reference for disassembly. It is 19 years old and now maybe few more years of use. I replaced the bearings and seal....not the whole rear outer tub. Thanks for the video
You should do a video showing just the bearing and seal replacement. Are you still running fine on your newer bearings? I have to replace the bearing in mine.
This video is old, but has been very useful sine my washer is 20 yo. It's not as easy as depicted here, but it never is for the diy'er. Tip: if you're struggling with removing the pulley, it may have red locktite like mine did. I used a heat gun on high for 2-3 mins to melt the locktite away, then I jiggled it back and forth till it eventually came off. I've decided to try and replace the bearings as it's is prohibitive ($900+) to get the replacement drum assembly. I will follow up if there's anything to add after my attempt. Good luck ya'll. 3/3/2022
Hello, I'm doing this now. Wondering how your new bearings have held up? I'm trying to figure out what bearings to get. They range in price from 30.00 up to over 200.00.
Great video to replace the bearing and tub, My bearing seized on our 13 year old Frigidaire Gallery Series as you see in this video but you can’t buy just the bearing as the tub and bearing come as one piece for $896.00 through RepairClinic, So Guess what? For that price I bought a brand new stackable for $1400
It would be nice if you had videos doing the same thing on later model Frigidaire washers. This model is already several years old and has been replaced by newer generations of Electrolux/Frigidaire front loaders. Not all of the components are mounted the same. Also, I noticed you seem to have removed the water inlet solenoid assembly but did not mention it in the video, otherwise this video is very helpful to the do-it-yourselfer.
My front load washer was jamming up, thought the bearings were shot, took it all apart and found a piece of clothing had worked it's way into the outer plastic tub tangling up the inner drum... how it got past the front seal is a mystery
Thank you for the video i have a question i need to replace the shok absorbers in this video i see the shocks and are the same as my washer so what model are in the video and where can i buy it thanks
My LG front load bought just a few months ago creates terrible throbbing noise during rinse and spin cycle, esp in the last 10 minutes. Does it need any replacement?
I have everything apart. However, the shaft coming from the inner (metal) tub is dark, perhaps greasy. The "holes" around the shaft where the three arms of the inner 'spider' come together are fully of 'junk'. I guess I have to get that clean? Separating the inner tub from the back half of the outer was very difficult. I had to knock it out using a hammer (**after replacing the bolt into the threaded hole, so as to not damage the threads). I want to be able to get the new one on without beating on it.
RepairClinic.com Do I have to replace the whole rear drum or can I just replace the bearing itself? And if I can only replace the bearing, will it stop the loud noises?
My Frigidaire like this started to make noise and wouldn't spin all the way out. I can wiggle the inner drum 2 inches up and down inside the outer tub which isn't allowing it to rotate freely. I imagine it's the bearing by watching this. I replaced the drain pump 6 months ago. I'm just trying to not pour more money into this if I have to get the bearing with the outer tub. It's 12 years old.
It's no need to replace the outer tub if it's not damaged. Just replace the worn out bearings and seal of the outer tub would solve the problem.www.ebay.com/itm/232447143887
Jean-François Blais We use a slotted (flat head) screwdriver. There are locking tabs on the air chamber and we use the screwdriver to depress both tabs, one at a time.
I have a later model of the Electrolux and the bearings are seized I think. Instead of a bolt I have a 6mm hex hole that secures the pulley. I tried to remove with a hex ratchet but began to strip. Any suggestions?
I was considering an Electrolux. Are those motors made in USA or China? Seems like these front loaders are failing after 3 years. The bearings going sounds like cheap builds.
My wash bin/drum dropped. I just need to diagnose and fix the problem. I don't think I need to replace the entire outer drum. Please help, it makes a rubbing noise and you can see that the drum dropped.
Spider. Buy a new one. Spider is not available separately. inner drum is 500 dollars and comes with an Aluminium spider so it's not cost effective. when this happened to me I cried over it because it was my first front loader. Now I'm working on getting a LG TROMM. I currently use a Maytag Neptune. Spider for both of these is available separately.
I got stuck with Samsung diamond WF8500, I can't separate the back cover and the drum to get access to the bearings, it's really tough, any ideas please.
Using a block of wood, hold the drum with shaft down 12” above wood and drop. Increase distance if it doesn’t free up. Saw this on another vid. Good luck. Let us know how it worked.
Justin Wunder Yeah, no longer worth the expense after that. The key is to replace the rubber seal as soon as you see a leak before it starts corroding the bearings and/or spider(as in your case).
My frigidare that I bought in 2010 drum gets stuck. It stops to rotate freely and its even hard when I try to do it with my hands. It loosens up then when I put it in the run mode it gets stuck again . Is it the bearing. The motor runs fine
If the motor is running but the tub is not turning, the bearing may be gummed up or there may something caught in it causing it to lock up. I would also check the belt and the idler pulley. If the belt is stretched or the idler pulley is not turning or keeping pressure on the belt the belt could slip.
The only way to know what happened is to take the machine apart and see if the rear tub support broke or something else broke that pushed out on the tub. The rear outer tub comes with the bearings but you will need to see what else you may need to complete the repair and determine if it’s worth it
Hey Joe, Say the bearing went out on my washer this morning and I just happened to end up hear watching the repair video and after reading your comment I decided to remove the front access panel. Sure enough there lies a pizza shaped chunk of the washer in the bottom. Did you decide to go through with the repair? And if so did you have to purchase any additional parts? I would really appreciate any advice you could provide.
The bearings and shaft may be rusty. You may need to try putting some oil or lubricating spray on the shaft and let it set awhile. If you hit on the inner tub shaft make sure you use a 2x4 piece of wood or something on the shaft before you hit it so you don’t damage it. Once the rear pulley and front outer tub is removed the tub should slide out of the rear bearing. If the shaft is too rusty you may need to replace the inner tub. You cannot get the support separate from the tub.
These series washers SUCK. No easy access inline filter, doesn't get cloths clean even using the best detergents, wash cycles consist of 50% of just sitting still doing nothing. JUNK. Loud spin cycles.... Oh and the eletric dryer is just as bad, poor lint dryer design allowing a lot of junk get to the heating element either greatly reducing it's lifespan (had to change it out 3 times, defiantly go oem and get a extended warranty) non oem only lasted 2 years, yes I clean the lint filter every time, every week I have to unscrew 2 screws, and vaccum the crap the link filter allows past down in the air vent. Don't even allows these as a free gift like I did, I had an old front load LG and it was awesome with a Kenmore commercial dryer, learned my lesson!
