Fast, precise, to the point. Better than most other vids on YT like Arthur Mayer Goldstein trailing off into how he remebers the first time he ever worked on one of these particular engines was back in the Summer of 1968 and that was the summer he met his Wife... but she's passed now ....so...... anyway BACK TO THE BLEEDIG PROCEDURE.... zzzZZ
Looking to bleed the System in my dads 51 year old LONG branded tractor. Not quite as cool as a boat, but it will still be good to get the old girl going again. I needed a refresher on bleeding Diesel engines and this one was really great. I especially appreciate this video. Thank you.
Saved me a call out costing hundreds for my 3tone dumper! After changing the fuel filter wouldn't start, did the bleed valve above the filter then the loosened the fuel rail turned her over 3 times 7 seconds and time did it all back up and broom after some open throttle started up, brill thanks
Thank you so much! My diesel generator wouldn't turn on after running out of fuel and the maintenance guy asked for 120$ to fix it. I really dont know much about generators but it took me 5 mins thanks to your video. YOU saved me alot of money
The process is straightforward thanks to this video, my primer pump was very different and concealed, had to unscrew it for it to pop up so i could start pumping.
Steve, thanks, and yes some pumps are stowed by pushing the handle in and screwing it tight. Glad you figured it out, and I assume you are up and running now.
Good explanation. I have a diesel generator and the manufacturer didn’t want to take the time to show me how to bleed it. They claim it’s programmed to shut off before running out. However , as you pointed out when you change the filter it needs primed.
good video, I'm not a diesel mechanic but I try to do my own things here and there to save a few bucks. I got my tractor to crank and it started but cut off. I bled it but I did not follow the steps you indicated here which tells me the line may still have air in them. I will go through the steps you listed and hopefully that solves my issue. Again thanks for the video.
Hi Steve, thx for your video. When bleeding the injectors you say you crank a bit, (1) does that mean faking starting the engine or actually starting it for a couple of seconds ?.... then air comes out of the top of the injector follow by solid stream of fuel you say. (2)Do you tighten the nuts while the engine is running ? (note I'm trying to apply this procedure to my Toyota Land Cruiser BJ42, but the parts and principles are exactly the same, do you have any observation on applying the procedure to a truck engine ?) Thank you very much for your input. Cheers.
Nem, I used to have an FJ40, sadly not a diesel, they are not available in the US. "Cranking" means turning the engine over with the starter, not starting/running. The engine will not start if the nuts are loose, so no you do not tighten while cranking, In fact doing so is dangerous because if you tighten a few and the engine starts then the fuel coming out of the remaining loose fittings will exist at very high pressure, so you want to avoid that. Crank with all nuts loose, tighten all nuts then try starting. Cover loose fittings with rags.
I am trying to start my restored VW rabbit pickup and get it running from its own diesel for the first time. It starts and purrs good on starter fluid but I think I might need to do this to grt it pulling diesel. It only has the one mechanical injection pump, no auxiliary or fuel tank pumps of any kind
Excellent Video! You correctly said that the high pressure injectors are better primed by cranking the engine. In case you have limited battery energy, can you use the manual pump to bleed the injectors ? First you would have to open the valve operated by the solenoid which In your engine(which is in strikingly well kept conditions) is on the left side of the injection pump.
Brik, thank you. I'm afraid you cannot prime through the injection pump without rotating it, this is where so many users fail in bleeding, you can bleed up tot he pump, however, if there is air in the pump, and in the injectors, you must crank the engine, turning the injection pump, to bleed it out.
@@SDMarineConsulting I guess it makes sense that the pump is a one way tight environment. If I was able to push the oil up to the injectors with a few PSI, the oil would also be pushed back to the supply line when running. I made a modified tank cap which has a low range pressure gauge and a steel tyre valve. This way I can quickly pressurise to 3 psi the tank with a compressor or portable aerosol can filled with air. Useful for tanks with little fuel or where the tank is below the engine level (eg CAT machinery) and where the manual priming pump is inaccessible.The engine has not been started for a couple of years and usually the stop valve gets stuck, but this time I removed the solenoid to manually play with the stop valve, but I still get no flow through the HP pump.
does anybody know the part code of that mechanical pump on the side of the block?? i have a four cylinder engine like that and my pump has gone bad.. i cant find any part code and font have the papers from the engine..
Pump line nozzle pinch return line, do not completely crush, and start. Pump pushes fuel no need to open system. Mechanical works every time for me Best of luck.
"...and start"? This video is for engines that are air-bound and won't start. If you mean crank, while that technique may work for you, it's not one I recommend, restricting, even if it isn't closed completely, return fuel can cause seal failures within injection pumps. If it was as easy as just restricting return fuel to bleed air out of a PLN system, engine manufacturers would instruct users to do that, rather than the more lengthy bleeding procedure I describe.
Excellent video Steve, I have exactly the same engine and fuel is leaking out of one or two of the nuts on the bottom of the injection pipes on the pump. How can I fix this please, I only noticed today motoring back to harbour.
Chris, sorry for the delayed response. That's probably an O ring issue. These pumps are known for this after some time. If you are handy you might attempt a repair, you might try tightening the nuts first but if that doesn't work the O rings should be replaced, and depending on the hours that might be a good excuse to rebuild the pump and change injectors.
@@SDMarineConsulting hi Steve, thanks for the reply. It was the o rings perished. But I took the pump to some guys who knew what they are doing, charged me £50 to refurbish it. Works fine now.
I have carefully maintained my 2QM15 since acquiring my sailboat in 2016. Always run my diesel and she’s worked great. Just the other day I observed a loss of power as I was up throttle a bit heading to the marina, the diesel seemed to slow almost stop then caught its breath and ran fine then repeated. I’m very suspicious that either air or water might have gotten into my lines. Am looking at your excellent video for clues as to where to begin my investigation.
@@SDMarineConsulting well I changed my filter last year and it should be fine. Today I checked diesel flow to the key parts around the engine. I also checked my air filter and it was pristine. It starts up just fine and did today. I’ve yet to check the water inflow however so perhaps there’s obstruction but I’m skeptical. Still scratching my head. Thks for answering 😊
@@SDMarineConsulting I performed routine bleeding of filter on top then of the two injection points and all were fluids so tightened then ran without any problems.
Hi Steve, great video. I’m having issues priming the system prior to the injector pump. Pumping the lever on the bottom of the lifting pump doesn’t get me any fuel. In order to eliminate the possibility of an air leak somewhere in my system between the lifting pump and the fuel tank I removed the supply line attached to the feed banjo bolt, and put it directly in a cup of fuel that I held as I pumped the lever. So I know without a doubt no air is leaking into the supply. I then removed the outgoing banjo bolt on the lifting pump to see if it was moving fuel, no fuel. I tried cranking as well as pumping the lever for several minutes. No fuel. This is a brand new lifting pump as I went through the same process with the old one and assumed it was bad. What am I missing? I can’t seem to get the new pump to create any suction. Thanks in advance for any advice.
The fact that neither of your lift pumps are pumping is puzzling. You might try forcing some fuel into the lift pump with a hand pump, like the primer bulb hose from an outboard (make sure it is devoid of all gasoline first). It's possible this new pump's seals are just dry and it can't establish a prime.
I did try to gravity force it by attaching a funnel to the line and held the line above the engine so it was all downhill for the fuel. Maybe a little more pressure could get me some results.
If the inside of the pump is "wet" it should prime, but worth a try. If you move the manual priming lever by hand can you hear the pump diaphragm moving if the fittings are removed?
@@SDMarineConsulting I don’t know that I would really be able to differentiate the sound of the diaphragm from the sound of the lever moving. When I’m down at the dock again tomorrow I’ll try it out and get back to you.
Hey Steve, awesome video. I’m working on a Perkins 3 cyl in a mower, I got fuel out of the line on the injection pump. However, I cracked the injector line like you said, but no fuel when I crank the engine. Any ideas? I appreciate your time thanks.
Shane, are you sure you have purged, pumped fuel all the way up to and into the injection pump? Perkins use CAV pumps which are a bear to bleed, you have to bleed the pump itself first, then the injectors.
@@SDMarineConsulting Yes I can contact until I got a solid stream of fuel pumping out of the line runs from it to the top of the injection pump that has two nuts. I also tested the fuel shut off solenoid and it works perfect.
@@shanejones5297 OK, but you have to bleed the injection pump itself, it has a bleed valve, have you done that? See the photo here, this is a Simms pump, but it's similar. authtool2.britishcouncil.org/ford-3000-tractor-injector-pump-diagram.html
I tried with my diesel 22kVa Genset and no success on fuel coming out of the high pressure side. I think it is the fuel solenoid on the injector pump, so I will check that now
If it is a pump with a built in solenoid, those do fail, some are energized to run, others are energized to stop, if it is energized to run, make sure it's getting power.
Jorge, hard to say, have you checked to confirm you are actually getting fuel at the injector fittings that you have loosened when cranking? If you are it should start after tightening them. If not, try another round of bleeding, you may still have air in the HP pump.
Perhaps all that the owner of the video said should be the first priority of check, but i would like to add another possibility that most people over look when the car doesnt start after doing the air bleeding procedure well. This. can be the battery to run out after all that starting force can consume a hell of battery energy, and the car wouldnt get started because of that, and it usually gives you the same sound when you try to start.
Thanks for the comment Hydro. The filter on the engine is referred to by most if not all modern marine engine manufacturers as the secondary filter because it is the second filter the fuel reaches on it's way to the engine. The off engine filter is referred to as the primary filter because it is the first filter the fuel passes through. Decades ago, some engine manufacturers did refer to the on engine filter as a primary, but that practice fell out of favor. From the Lugger OLP Operator's Manual, for genset models LP445D, LP445T, LP668D, and LP668T, page 12 "NOTE: The fuel filter on the engine is considered the “secondary fuel filter”. The engine will be fitted with a quick change disposable secondary fuel filter."
@@SDMarineConsulting hey Steve thanks its ok I'm just so frustrated I had such a tough time grasping this but it turns out I think my boats "day tanks"(like a secondary tank that helps manage fuel level cause sail boats rock and roll a lot so gauges are not reliable) transfer pump(an additional pump for the day tank to pull diesel out of the main tank)was diying and not indeed transferring fuel so I kept sucking air whilst bleeding and hence I'm still very frustrated but I think I'm on the right track but as to your video well being a newbie to diesel and not knowing what all the parts are exactly from that distance I just couldn't see you were talking about exactly but it's ok thanks anyway;)
@@jasoncreed6396 No problem, and day tanks are fairly common for the vessels I work with, it can be complex initially. Lots of good tech articles on my website, including about fuel systems and filtration. Some of those may helpful. www.stevedmarine.com Here's one stevedmarineconsulting.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/fuelplumbing.pdf
