It's a pleasure listening to this man's low key patient understanding and appreciation of this wonderful engine design during assembly. I love the rotaries like I loved racing crazy fast 2 stroke street bikes for years. No four stroke engine will ever hold a candle to a rotary,or for that matter a 2 stroke motorcycle engine. Simple,durable,and huge horsepower per cubic inch. Give me a rotary car,and a Kawasaki H-2 triple,and I'm a happy man.
Cool video you should really do a live stream of an assembly where you can be answering questions while you assemble..................I know that’s kinda a lot and very specific but that’s what the people want!!!!
Would love 2 c a follow up vid plz.... nothing like the sound of an aspirated engine screaming its titts off. Group be rally a fine example of that. And no you haven't bored us with the master craftsmanship you posess😎👍
Couple questions. Is this streetable at idle with a holley sniper injection? What were the final numbers on torque,hp, redline. In 2022 what price range is this in
Hey, my friend, I learn a lot from watching your videos. I would like to ask a question. A guy that has a rotary engine website. He explained to me that synthetic 2 cycle oils leave significant deposits in the engine; and that Marine 2 cycle oils are for a different type of 2 stroke engine than a rotary engine. I found that Briggs & Stratton is a low ash cleaner-burning 2 cycle oil. Does any of this make sense to you guys? Thanks!!
Thanks for the video, very useful information here. One thing I'm wondering about: the housings have been notched on both sides, how does this work with oem multi-piece seals? Will the triangle piece have enough support? I'm doing the exact same build and am still trying to figure out to what extend and length the notch can be made on both sides Thanks!!
Its not about support..in fact..the whole concept behind the bridge is to provide the necessary support. The concern is actually the tip of the end piece catching on the notch. Ideally its best to use 1 pc ceramics yes....but I have used 2 pc seals many times. If you think about it, the 45 deg cut along with the side housing prevents the end piece from moving up so very unlikely to catch.
Did I miss something? How are you keeping the corner piece of the factory apex seal from falling into the port on full bridge? Both sides of the rotor housing has the notches so there's no support for the side piece. I must be missing something? These seals don't look like 1 peice seals, that's why I'm asking. Edit: Nevermind! Seems the side plates and apex seal itself keeps the side piece in check over that gap.
Once again...Its not about support..in fact..the whole concept behind the bridge is to provide the necessary support. The concern is actually the tip of the end piece catching on the notch. Ideally its best to use 1 pc ceramics yes....but I have used 2 pc seals many times. If you think about it, the 45 deg cut along with the side housing prevents the end piece from moving up so very unlikely to catch.
@@rx7specialties203 You misread my comment. I was refering to the corner piece of the apex seal and not the corner piece itself. I already know the bridge supports the corner. I just never seen someone build a FULL bridge with factory apex seals. But your right about the angle. That's why I edited my OG post! 😉
I have running '85 12A and 84' 13B GSLSE engines. The plan is to combine the two for a ported NA motor. But I'm not sure if I want a bridge in a 1200 lbs street car that will only see occasional track time.
@@rotaryrocket74 Start with a stock 1500lbs 1965 MG Midget. Sorry for leaving out important information. If I get fiberglass pannels I may be able to go sub 1K lbs. The 6-port SE and trans are in it now. Going to shorten the SE rear end.
Could a full Renesis rotating assembly have been used here if its 10:1 compression was sufficient for the build? What application did the 9.7:1 rotors come from?
Yes they could have been an option but we have learned that the extra .3 in compression does not yield noticeable gains. Also, when running apex seals over a peripheral exhaust port, you really need to use a tall RX7 apex seal, in which case the RX8 rotors need to be EDM'd to full depth slots....its pricey....plus the narrower side seals from the 9.7 rotors seal better
On the topic of early irons, can you run the early center iron on a gslse engine to make the port larger since the se iron does not have much material before you hit the water jacket? I’m currently running dcoe style throttle bodies so there is no need to use the stock injectors that would be in the se center iron. Car makes 197whp on a popular Australian dyno. And what would be the gains if I were to send it to you guys for either a maximum street port or half bridge?
Yes you can. They flow much better. Its just the early irons are carb irons and dont have injector ports so you need to run ITB's with fuel rails built in thus ditching the stock SE EFI
@@rx7specialties203I've emailed you a few times. I would still like some work done. I know your probably busy as hell and didnt have the chance to reply. Would just like to get these parts out to you.
@@JustinSmith-wo1ne I normally get back to emails within 24 hrs. Seems odd and my apologizes. Did you try to call us or have you received a response since?
It’s 4-port 13B RE (massive port work can be done compare to REW or Renesis counterparts) with RX-8 rotating assembly (stronger or larger material maybe)
They dont make anymore power and they're are extra costs involved as they need to be EDM'd to full depth 2mm to accommodate the taller seals necessary for rigidity to pass over the exhaust port along with the ful depth custom corner seals. Unnecessary costs to gain virtually nothing.
@@rx7specialties203 Ah, okay. Thanks for the reply! I'm currently planning on a build just like this and was really surprised to see you make a video on it. Thank you for the info. This changes a lot about my plans now and I appreciate it.
Have to say in this case your wrong with those size ports for an n/a engine, over here in nz others have built these big massive ports and they don’t perform. Btw I’ve been building 25 years, turbo yep go massive, the limited very few have discovered here that 3B rx3 ports are as big as you need to go for a n/a engine, full length bridges, extremely torquey without losing top end power. Question what’s does n/a rely on A. Gas speed. Big ports slow the gas upon entering the housing resulting in performance loss. Fast gas speed more torque, still the same top end. This only applies for n/a. Bigger is not better unless you are going turbo.
Port overlap, the longer ports on a n/a build are for longer duration of the intake charge. Basically the same as putting a high duration high lift camshaft in a piston engine. When you turbo charge a piston engine you put in a boost (or turbo) camshaft not one with heaps of overlap. It works the same in a rotary engine. Hope that makes sense. Cheers Mark.
@@BoogalooShrymp . Because the port in the housing is positioned around the same place in degrees as a good turbo port in the side housing (iron). On a semi peripheral port the port size is very small compared to size on a n/a peripheral port engine. When the peripheral port itself is smaller it is also not as large in degrees as a big n/a port. They use the semi peripheral port to increase the amount of intake charge in volume without changing the overlap "ie port timing ". Cheers Mark.
Good words guys but also during overlap boost pressure can escape the intake charge and is forced into the exhaust. EGT;s can raise very high when fresh air is introduced into the burning exhaust gasses. A short smaller bridge at the top of the port only can reduce the amount of fresh air feeding the exhaust stroke
Any idea of the power this build will produce? More interestingly for me what do you think it would produce on the twin 40's as that's my current build plan. Cheer
9750rpm that's nothing if my rx8 didn't have a rev limiter the factory engine would rev to 15k ik becouse it would sling the engine to 12k with the rev limiter at 10k....
Sorry to say but 2 stroke is not good. If you want Roto to last longer, Use 2 stroke oil in the gasoline! But that dosen't last long either... Two stroke have a short life because of the heat cycle the rings and seals have to go through.
