Three questions that might be important: 1. do you also support the longer 109" chassis? 2. would a left hand steering model interfere with the high voltage cables? 3. will you deliver descriptions of the components, let's say one wan't to add battery modules or reduce the engine power. Off-course own research is a starting point but are you willing to give hints there? (or is it considered a 'closed box' and 'not allowed to touch' system?) Background; in doubt to go trough a build myself from scratch or speed things up with a kit.
Yes, we can do this for the 109 chassis without any issues, its just the harness which is a couple of inches longer. Our left hand drive models are an exact opposite of this kit, so the HV cables run the other side of the car to the steering. You are unable to add battery modules as this system is already running at the required voltage for the motor. Yes you can change the motor map to give different power modes. You can touch, but within reason!!!
@@electriccarconverts I understand batteries are on the right voltage. but that should still allow for example doubling the capacity by adding a similar pack in a different place and in parralel to the first battery? Such a car would be great to have awesome range and double as household battery.
Merry Christmas 🎄. I have one in Santa Marta Magdalena Colombia, it is at a shop receiving an overhaul, but I ran out of resources to continue the process. My initial intention was to prepared it to be imported to the USA. But due to lack of resources it is till in Colombia and in the overhaul shop. It is a 1970 Land Rover Serie IIa. 3 doors soft top. Can it be imported to the USA? Yes! Let me know if you want more info. Or perhaps you want to find a Defender for you. To be imported to the USA, it only needs to be at a 90% originally equiped. And be 25 years old or older. Let me know if I can be instrumental to your Project.
I love that you're doing a kit, and I understand that keeping the Series Gearbox, transfer case and 4wd selectors saves a lot of trouble and expense, but these are some of the parts I'm looking forward to ditching in my conversion. I'd much prefer the sideways M3 motor with full time 4x4. I saw a converted Landy at Fully Charged Live that had a control box under the floor like that - looked like it would fill with water on the first rainy day... How well sealed is it? Can it be submerged and for how long? Are your kits suitable for working vehicles and recreational off-roaders, or just trendy retro city cars?
We run sideways M3 motors in our Defenders and RRC's - we could just about fit one into a Series vehicle but it's a lot of power for an old lady! Our control boxes are sealed and yes you are able to off road without issues!
Pity the kit goes on the gearbox. I’d prefer to pose the series gearbox personally and have the motor on the transfer box. But great to see a diy kit ready to drop in.
A Hyper9 (in my experience) doesn't develop enough torque to drive the transfer box directly. It will work, but give you a 0-60 of about a week! Keepting the gearbox is a good call IMHO. I would probably loose the clutch & flywheel though. However, keeping them makes the build a bit simpler.
Correct, if you go straight to transfer you won't have quite enough power for safe reliable driving, ie if you had to hill start you'd have to go into low ratio etc.. Keeping the clutch and flywheel allows for gear changes, so if you go from a city road in 3rd gear and are about to sit at 60mph on an A-road, you can shift into 4th without stopping!
Hi! I'm very exited about this kit! Do you deliver to Germany? And can it be built in by an ordenary workshop? I have a Landy dealer around here who mostly deals with refurbished Landys from Spain (Santana). Will this kit fit to those left steering models? And what would be the costs for shipping to my home? Greetings from Germany (Brandenburg)!
Yes we deliver all around the world. You will have to send the car for the TUV test however, this is not something we have experience with. Yes its also available in left hand drive.
50k genuine English Pounds? That's about 100k AUD ... might just buy a new 4 door ute and be done with it. Same price really. Beautifully neat job when they are finished tho ... very nice.
That's a great kit. I've a couple questions for you. Would you consider shipping without batteries to save weight? I can purchase and install them here in the US. Also, the control box in the back looks to drop in from above. Have you or anyone you've sold to modified the floor of the tub to gain access if needed?
Merry Christmas 🎄. I have one in Santa Marta Magdalena Colombia, it is at a shop receiving an overhaul, but I ran out of resources to continue the process. My initial intention was to prepared it to be imported to the USA. But due to lack of resources it is till in Colombia and in the overhaul shop. It is a 1970 Land Rover Serie IIa. 3 doors soft top. Can it be imported to the USA? Yes! Let me know if you want more info. Or perhaps you want to find a Defender for you. To be imported to the USA, it only needs to be at a 90% originally equiped. And be 25 years old or older. Let me know if I can be instrumental to your Project.
I like your kit - particularly the idea of using the front PTO Hole as a mounting for the Battery. I'm curious how you've overcome the lack of CAN Communication between the Orion2 BMS & SME X1 Controller? I did get it working on my Polaris using a Teensy to convert the OBD protocol to CANOpen - but it was flaky as hell. Any minor comms error & the SME or BMS would shut down. I'm guessing you use the SME Analog Inputs for sending the BMS Charge & Discharge limits to the SME?
@@electriccarconverts Unfortunately, I don't think they will ever 'sort it out' as they use completely different protocols. The Orion uses the OBD Style where you send a request packet & get a response where the Netgain (Dana) uses CANOPEN where it expects packets just to arrive (broadcast). It's going to require either to completely re-write their CAN Stack - no quick fix. It is possible using an Arduino as a translator (BTW: I have that working)
Love your video walkthroughs, Barnaby (cool name by the way). Also, appreciate the transparency for mentioning the kit price, not sure why other EV conversion companies keep this a secret.
Thanks a lot for this! One thing I hate about this industry is how hush hush companies are on pricing, if I get it out in the open and keep it cheap, hopefully more people can get their dream car converted!
Not currently, but only because Tesla doesn't allow it. They're piloting a scheme now whereby any EV can use the Tesla charging network, we will see if it continues!
120 bhp and 235 Nm torque, there's no way in hell you'll be able to more than feather the throttle unless you like changing gearboxes and half-shafts. 🤣 Why not make a kit that matches the original performance?! Series 2/3s were not designed to be driven like sportscars, they are roadgoing tractors basically.
What about the people who put 200TDi engines into them? They have the same power and don't have any trouble! We've converted about 10 of these and never had a gearbox problem - they were obviously built strong back in the day. Do your research, friend!
Perhaps what you do not know, is that the Inverter can be connected to a Laptop. You can set the maximum current, and (in other words) you can 'tailor' the Main Motor Output Torque to any setting that you desire. And you can get everything perfect in this way........Slightly reducing the overall power output of the Main Motor, will give increased range. I have done this to mine.
I know aren't we terrible Wesley! With that reasoning then no technology should ever move forward, we should just continue using old engineering because creating new stuff is bad for the environment!
@@prophotoservices nope not ignorant just factual the destruction of a good classic just to be coool and so-called environmentally friendly is bull. no EV is environmentally friendly. and an old classic has long made up any carbon footprint so more friendly than a new car.
